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What kind of bit do I need?

by Lumpyx
posted 02-25-2013 07:18 AM


19 replies so far

View WoodenSoldier's profile

WoodenSoldier

160 posts in 1594 days


#1 posted 02-25-2013 08:00 AM

Use a forstner bit with a brad point. If you have a drill press use that to drill it. Good luck.

-- Create something everyday.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2518 posts in 1001 days


#2 posted 02-25-2013 02:03 PM

A Forstner bit will work fine especially in a drill press.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1480 days


#3 posted 02-25-2013 02:12 PM

As the others have said, a forstner bit would work fine. If the magnets you’re using are nickel coated (shiny silver) be sure to scuff up the back and sides before epoxying them in the holes. This helps the adhesive have some tooth to grab on to. I had good luck with any hardware store 5 min epoxy.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View Lumpyx's profile

Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#4 posted 02-25-2013 03:53 PM

I have loctite quick set multi purpose epoxy and the magnets just say they’re neodymium disc magnets that measure ”.47 in. D. x .11in. (12mm x 3mm)”. I don’t own a drill press so I will be just hand drilling them. Any tips or anything I need to know before using a forstner bit as I have never used one before? Also do I just use sandpaper on magnets to scuff them? I have between 60g and 600g but Im assuming the more coarse the better. Thanks guys.

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1480 days


#5 posted 02-25-2013 10:25 PM

60 to 100 grit should do fine. If you don’t have a drill press I would recommend a brad point drill bit. Less chance of it walking on start up. If you do decide to use a forstner freehand with a drill be sure to put good pressure down when starting to prevent it from wondering. Practice on some scrap. This will also let you get your depth dialed in. I put a cheap stop collar on to control my depth.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

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Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#6 posted 02-26-2013 01:32 AM

Thanks Gary. I am going to use a brad point bit with a stop collar. Do you have a preference between setscrew and split ring stop collars? The only stop collar I have used is the set screw type on my pocket hole jig bit.

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1480 days


#7 posted 02-26-2013 01:43 AM

That was a quick pic I found online. I have the set screw type also. You need to make sure the screw hits on the top of the flutes of the bit or it will twist.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1178 posts in 1274 days


#8 posted 02-26-2013 01:56 AM

I do this all the time in my Secret Stash Jewelry boxes. I do however have the advantage of a drill press. I use brad point bits and use the depth stop on my press. Sometimes I rough them up but have not heard of any of them, roughed or not coming out of the epoxy.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1004 days


#9 posted 02-26-2013 01:59 AM

For 3/8ths, I would just use a brad point bit,

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

935 posts in 675 days


#10 posted 02-26-2013 02:18 AM

I like the split ring depth stops better than the set screw type.

View Lumpyx's profile

Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#11 posted 02-26-2013 02:34 AM

Is there any reason why you prefer the split ring stops?

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

935 posts in 675 days


#12 posted 02-26-2013 05:05 AM

Yes, as Gary L mentioned above, with the set screw you have to be sure it lands on a flute, not into a groove. The split type don’t have that problem, and I imagine they are easier on the bit (not damaging the sharp edged flutes).

Additionally, I don’t like forstners in small diameters, as they don’t clear the chips well and clog up. However, your holes will be so shallow that shouldn’t be a concern. If you do use a brad point twist drill, get a good one with sharp spurs. Cheapies often cut a rough hole, which you don’t want.

View Lumpyx's profile

Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#13 posted 02-26-2013 05:09 AM

Valid point I would say. I’ll check out both at tbe store in the morning and will probably go with the cheaper of the two.

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

View Lumpyx's profile

Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#14 posted 02-26-2013 05:21 PM

Well I got a set of brad point bits and set screw stop collars. But only to discover my drill won’t accept a bit with a 1/2” shank, the biggest it takes is 3/8” . Is there some type of extension I can buy for my drill to take a bigger bit or should I just look for smaller magnets?

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1480 days


#15 posted 02-26-2013 09:04 PM

If your magnets are 3/8” then a 3/8” bit should work and it should have a 3/8” shank that should fit your 3/8” chuck.
That a lot of “should of”s but I think you get the point. Are you sure the bits are 1/2” shank? I’ve never seen that on brad point bits.
For a box, 3/8”x1/4” mags may be a bit big. It will take a good tug to pop it open. 1/4” would work fine.

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View Lumpyx's profile

Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#16 posted 02-26-2013 10:46 PM

My bad Gary, the shank actually is 3/8” of an inch however it still won’t fit into the chuck which is 3/8” for sure (just checked the box) so im kinda confused as to why it’s not fitting.

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

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Lumpyx

42 posts in 574 days


#17 posted 02-26-2013 10:53 PM

Woooow I feel really dumb. Apparently in the packaging it came with the 3/8” and 7/16” in each others spots. Something I REALLY should have picked up on considering the difference in length. Lol sorry for that mess.

-- "For long you live and high you fly, but only if you ride the tide."

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1077 posts in 1480 days


#18 posted 02-27-2013 01:42 AM

Glad you have it coming together. Good luck!

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View crank49's profile (online now)

crank49

3416 posts in 1620 days


#19 posted 02-27-2013 02:43 AM

A plunge router woul make a nice clean hole as well.
And no worry about the point going through the wood.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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