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Ridgid R4512 vs. Steel City 35990C

by grunt58
posted 02-11-2013 06:28 PM


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60 replies

60 replies so far

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#1 posted 02-11-2013 07:09 PM

I went with the rigid because of the price. There is only one thing I am not happy with and that is the fence. There is no benefit to the steel city here because that also has a 2 piece fence system (more on that below)

You will likely get a lot people telling you the Steel City is the one to go with because it has
A – more cast iron
B – cabinet mounted trunions (vs table mounted trunions)

That was a large consideration for me at first, but in reality I haven’t ever thought to myself “man, I wish I had more cast iron”. The Steel wings on the R4512 are plenty sturdy and flat to the cast iron (if you take the time to assemble it correctly)
There have been trunion issues with some of the older R4512’s. I won’t elaborate because it has been well documented. With that said, newer models do not seem to be affected at all. I find both height and angle adjustments to be true and consistent once aligned properly. I use my saw daily.

Like I mentioned, on paper the Steel City is the better saw. In real world applications, I haven’t found the lack of cast iron or the table mounted trunions have had any effect on the quality of cuts I make with the saw, or my ability to make any cut I want to. Once set up properly, it’s as good as an under-powered hybrid saw gets. The fence rails can be an issue though – but it will be on the steel city as well. This is not a showstopper. There are plenty of aftermarket fences available. Some require some tweaking (Delta T2, vega pro), and some bolt right up but cost more than the saw (Incra LS-TS – but that would be an upgrade on any saw you were to buy).

Unless you are going to go with a 3hp full cabinet saw, I really cannot justify the price difference between the R4512 and the other contractor saw/hybrids like Rikon, steel city, Jet, and Grizzly. In addition, I think the R4512 is superior to other similarly priced saws. The Craftsman clone is usually $100 more and not eligible for the LSA, and the Porter cable has a LOT of plastic where you would expect metal to be.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#2 posted 02-11-2013 07:32 PM

Thanks for the reply, great information. I was set to go with the ridgid but then started reading up on the Steel City. Witht he ridgid I thought about adding the Incra fence and replacing the extensions with cast iron but at that point I’m in another $400 so I might as well buy a $1k saw. I’ve read people say to suck it up and buy your second gen saw and skip the first. I wish I could but like most my current shop is my 2 1/2 car garage which stores 2 cars a 4-wheeler misc tools and lord knows what else. My goal is to get by for 5 years then at that point have the dedicated shop and money for a cabinet saw. Then keep this as a back up saw.

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2335 days


#3 posted 02-11-2013 07:43 PM

the specs favor the SteelCity saw, and I’m basing this on the cabinet mounted trunnion. Other than that I have the R4511 which uses the same fence setup as the SC saw mentioned above and have had no problems with the 2 piece rails- but I do know many people complaint about it. a quick solution to this is to replace the 2 piece rail with a single 1.25×1.25-1/8”thick tube and problem solved (like many have done in the past).

so that leaves the price vs. trunnion – which is more important to you?

Another thing to consider is availability – the Ridgid is fairly easy to come by at any HD, or HD can get it from another store, where as availability of the SC is harder to come by (at least around here).

I have a similar saw in spec (1.5Hp 110v) and honestly do not think I will ever NEED a bigger saw. do your homework and get your last saw today, whether it is one of the above 2, or your final planned 3Hp saw.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#4 posted 02-11-2013 07:58 PM

Honestly, if I were to upgrade this saw, my minimum consideration would be the Grizzly G0690 at about $1500 shipped. Nothing brand new in the $500 to $1300 range get me to upgrade from the R4512. Like you, I would also need a mobile base at an additional cost. In addition to that, if you don’t already have 220v power, you would need to make provisions as well.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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gtbuzz

362 posts in 1128 days


#5 posted 02-11-2013 08:00 PM

I’ll jump in here because I’ve got some experience with the former…

All I can say about the Ridgid and that style of trunnion design (Craftsman 21833 and Grizzly G0715P) is that make sure you can get a good one. I’ve gone through 1 R4512 and 2 G0175P (long story) and here’s what I’ve found:

Ridgid #1 – was able to square the blade to the miter slot +/- 0.001, however it never held. It would lose the alignment within a few cuts. What’s worse is that if you raised the blade, the alignment went WAY out of whack. Really wish this one worked out because I got it for $470 or so from HD, but it went back.

G0715P #1 – awesome alignment. +/- 0.001 and didnt’ change with the blade raising / lowering and with the blade angle change. Saw had some motor problems so I had to get it swapped out

G0715P #2 – no motor problems, but alignment is AWFUL. Can’t get it better than 0.015”. Doesn’t change when you raise/lower the blade so I really think the trunnion mounting holes in the bottom of the table were mis-drilled. Grizzly has agreed to take this back (I think).

Having gone through 3 saws with the same trunnion design, all I can say is…. I give up. 66% failure rate (on the trunnions at least) is far far too high for me and just not worth the frustration going through a bunch of them to find a good one. If you can find a Home Depot or a Sears with the 4512 or 21833 on display, I’d say check it out and if it’s good take that one and that one only. Alignment problems aside, it seems like a decent saw, especially for the price.

I’m in the hunting for a table saw phase again, and I’ve basically narrowed it down to a handfull of Steel City models (950, 926 and 990 that you mentioned) as well as the Craftsman 22116 which is basically a copy of an older SC saw, still has cabinet mounted trunnions too. Wouldn’t have thought it was worth the few hundred $$ difference, but apparently, at least based on my experience, it does.

Really don’t want to break the $1000 barrier either, but honestly there’s this thing in the back of my head telling me to go ahead and buy the 3hp SawStop because I’ll never have to buy one again.

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#6 posted 02-11-2013 08:07 PM

If I had the room and was not saving for my next house I’d get my final saw. Some people don’t realize the interwebs has people of all ages and demographics on it. Everyone is at different stages in their life. There is a hardware store about an hour from my house that sells Steel City and said they had the 35990C on display. So the shipping/recieving is a moot point right now.

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#7 posted 02-11-2013 08:18 PM

Grunt58, that’s a good observation. There are two schools of thought though. The “old timers” have all been where we have and have bought multiple table saws when saving up for just one would have worked out better financially. The second group is the people like you (and me) that just want to get woodworking. My table saw is not the only tool I bought. Last year at this time I owned a chop saw and a few drills. I now have a complete woodworking shop that if I were to total receipts probably cost more than my first 4 cars combined. I think I may be in the upgrade category soon, but that has more to do with my current financial status than the shortcomings of the R4512.

The ridgid alignment issue can be diagnosed in the parking lot at home depot if present. I haven’t seen any recent examples of this, but it was quite prevalent. The Steel City is a little nicer, but not worth the premium in my opinion. Keep in mind included blades are junk, so you will need a new one right away. Getting a dado set, zero clearance insert(s), upgrading the junk miter gauge that comes with saws (or building a sled) etc, all factors in as well. That is a zero sum equation between the R4512 and the SC.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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toolie

1768 posts in 1315 days


#8 posted 02-11-2013 08:20 PM

here’s one vote for “less ” saw (so i’m kinda in the 4512 camp). i sold a unisaw i refurbished for lack of room rather than sell the 2 10” CI TSs which i have. all this hubbub about “more power” won’t make your cuts better. it will make them easier and faster, but not better. i’d try for a 4512 for $400 w/ a HF 20% off coupon and put the saved $100 towards a better fence or blade or miter gauge. just my $.02.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#9 posted 02-11-2013 08:34 PM

Side note. I kinda almost pulled the trigger on a delta x unisaw. Distributor was selling a new/never used one for $1900. I was not to familar with it but I think that was a good price. It being 220v and the fact my fiance would kill me for droping that much money on saw when we want to move made me pass. I guess she would also be pissed that I spent that much money and we are getting married this year too….

This is not it but is what it looked like minus the 50” fence.
http://www.redmond-machinery.com/images/Delta/Delta%2036-L31X-BC50.gif

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2335 days


#10 posted 02-11-2013 08:38 PM

not THAT GREAT of a deal that you should feel bad about it ;) this looks like the older generation unisaw.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Furnitude

339 posts in 2193 days


#11 posted 02-11-2013 09:07 PM

Have a look at my review of the Ridgid 4512: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2020. I can’t comment on the Grizzly because i’ve never laid eyes nor hands on it. All I can say is that I’m still very happy with the Ridgid 4512 after a couple of years. I haven’t had any problems with the fence, as others mentioned above. If I could change anything about the Ridgid, I’d say it would be great to have a full iron table and not the stamped steels ones. I don’t like the cawl very much, but the riving knife has worked well. I haven’t had a single kickback incident—nothing even close. The mobility of it is quite good. I have a small basement and have had to move it around when work was done on the furnace, etc. Up on its wheels, it feels like it’s floating. I’m sure an aftermarket fence would improve performance a bit. If i could have any saw regardless of money, i’d have a SawStop cabinet saw. But the Ridgid has all the features I need. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask me.
Mitch

-- Mitch, http://furnitude.blogspot.com Also blog at http://www.craftsy.com/blog/author/mitch-roberson/

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#12 posted 02-11-2013 09:10 PM

Cool. I heard new Delta Uni Saw for $1900 and almost dropped my pants and bent over.

What is the fence on the Steel City 35990C like? Is it 2 piece? What is the down side to the 2 piece if flexes somewhere? In the middle?

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knotscott

5513 posts in 2062 days


#13 posted 02-11-2013 09:13 PM

GTBuzz – I’m curious why you’d swap the entire saw for a motor problem, as opposed to just replacing the motor?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#14 posted 02-11-2013 09:14 PM

It flexes near the joint. If I am working within about 3” of the blade, I get some flex. The closer to the blade I get, the more flex I get. This changes the geometry of the fence and brings it out of parallel ever so slightly. It has gotten worse over time. It is much more noticeable on harder woods. I just cut some Cumaru and the last few inches are completely scorched. It can be adjusted out – and I do if I am making a lot of repeat cuts close to the blade, but it is annoying. This weekend the saw is coming apart anyway as I am ditching a steel insert in favor of a larger router table. I have a feeling the little set screw blocks that holds the two pieces together loosened up a bit.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#15 posted 02-11-2013 09:15 PM

Also it was Furnitude’s review and blog that convinced me to stop dicking around and just get the R4512. I had been saw shopping for about 2 months

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2335 days


#16 posted 02-11-2013 09:16 PM

the 2 piece fence (on both SC and Ridgid saws) is what it is – 2 tube rails that are snapped together in the middle of the saw using a plastic coupling. because it is not a continuous rail from start to finish keeping those 2 halves aligned perfectly can be in some cases a project on its own. luckily I didn’t encounter such issues, but theoretically it is possible that the coupling and or how you install the rail causes the 2 halves to not be aligned which means that if you move your fence to the left of the right half of the rail it can lose it’s alignment with the blade.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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knotscott

5513 posts in 2062 days


#17 posted 02-11-2013 10:13 PM

There’s going to be pros and cons with just about all of them. The less you spend, the fewer “goodies” that are usually included. The trick is buying the features that are most important to you. Premium fence, cabinet mounted trunnions, solid cast wings, full enclosure, built in wheels, dealer support, etc…...are all things you should weigh into your decision. If you’re willing to be your own middleman, Grizzly can offer some legit savings over most brands sold by dealers….if you want dealer support, expect to pay the dealer markup. If you want solid cast iron wings, you’ll pay more for them. Really good fences don’t enter the picture until you get near the $800 mark. The good news is that they all have similar potential for good performance, depending on how well you set it up, and what blade you choose.

Good used saws are another way to stretch your dollar, but the availability of good saws is unpredictable.

What’s most important to you?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#18 posted 02-12-2013 01:57 AM

Whats important to me, not really sure. Just want a good entry level saw that will be good enough for several years. I don’t mind rechecking measurements after a few cuts. That is why the R4512 is in the running. I’m not making fine furniture just simple basic furniture for now. As my skills increase so will my machines.

How are the delta contrator saws? This one has a nice fence and wheel base.

This was his repsonse to my inquiry:
Thank you for the response. The saw is available and in great working order. The fence is made by Delta and was a premium option. It features calibrated rip measurements and also has squareness adjustment which is essential for making cabinets.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/3561179228.html

If I can get him around $400 will be a serious contender. Depending on what everyone here says and its condition.

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#19 posted 02-12-2013 02:39 AM

That guy is smoking crack on that price. There is no riving knife on that saw, which is something you definitely want.

As far as accuracy, I can’t remember the last time I double checked a piece that came off my R4512. Also ALL fences ”feature calibrated rip measurements and also has squareness adjustment which is essential for making cabinets.”. That looks like a Delta T2 fence which you can get aftermarket for under 200$

Fine furniture or basic furniture, you need the utmost of accuracy. Accuracy isn’t the difference between a basic piece and a fine piece, it’s the difference between a completed project and firewood.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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knotscott

5513 posts in 2062 days


#20 posted 02-12-2013 02:41 AM

Looks like it could be a Delta 36-680:
+ Decent saw, good fence (T2), solid cast wings, mobile base
- Outboard motor, no riving knife, right tilt, don’t see a blade guard, no warranty

Even though they state that they paid $1000 for that saw. IIRC it sold for < $700 everywhere. The premium fence options would have been the Biesemeyer or Unifence… the T2 was the stock option on that model unless I’m wrong about the model number, and they added it as aftermarket fence. Either way, the T2 is no slouch, but it’s not a premium option, so don’t pay him as if it were. The missing blade guard is another excellent bartering point….it could easily be $50-$60 or more to find one for it. $300-$350 would be my offer, but if you love it, $400 wouldn’t be a terrible price IMO.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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kdc68

1996 posts in 963 days


#21 posted 02-12-2013 02:43 AM

grunt58….If you can get him down to around that $400 , I’d try to have him throw in the dado set.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#22 posted 02-12-2013 03:07 AM

Ok so dude moved to Brazil and I have to call his mom to set up to see it. he doesn’t have more pictures nor know the model number. think ill pass on this one. Keep coming back to the R4512.

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Cole Tallerman

392 posts in 871 days


#23 posted 02-12-2013 03:31 AM

I think unless you go pro, that SC will be all the saw you ever need. With the cabinet mounted cast iron trunions, it is basically a 110V cabinet saw. Also, I get 80’s and 90’s unisaws on my craigslist for $500-$800 all the time in great condition.

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Eric

5 posts in 622 days


#24 posted 02-12-2013 03:46 AM

I was in your same position looking at the R4512, the SC, the Grizzly and a Craftsman. I ended up going with the Steel City because it was the most reasonably priced saw I could find with cast iron wings and cabinet mounted trunions. I had a local dealer that had a floor model so I was able to check out all the models except the Grizzly in person. I didn’t care for the Ridgid fence at all. The Steel City is a two piece rail as well, but to me at least it felt more stable.

I haven’t had time to make many projects with it but it has worked great for me so far and would definitely recommend it.

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#25 posted 02-12-2013 06:36 PM

Any good review on the SC 35990C? I’ve google searched and have not found much. There is one on here but no comments. The Ridgid review here on Lumber jocks was nice and has lots of comments. Plus furnitude had a nice review also. I think I will go to the dealer an hour away and check out the SC. If it looks good think I’ll go with it. I can’t find a HD that has the Ridgid on display. Pluse the ones I called won’t except a harbor freight coupon so the Ridgid looses that advantage, at least till I find one close that will take the coupon.

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RVroman

163 posts in 710 days


#26 posted 02-12-2013 08:00 PM

Gtbuzz, I have narrowed my selection down to the Sears 22116 (1.75 HP) or the Grizzly G0715P (2 HP) I was under the impression the griz had cabinet mounted trunnions. Am I understanding you correctly in that they are table mounted? That could be a deal killer for me.

However, now the Steel City has my interest (1.5 HP) and I can get it locally for $800. So it comes in under the sears, and the same as the griz without shipping. I guess the big question is how significant is a drop in 1/4 or 1/2 HP as compared to the others I was considering?

Darn LJ for further complicating my decision! ;-)

-- Robert --- making toothpicks one 3x3x12 blank at a time!

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knotscott

5513 posts in 2062 days


#27 posted 02-12-2013 09:49 PM

RVroman – I doubt you’ll notice much difference between the 1.75hp and 1.5hp motor (setup and blade choice are bigger factors). It’s worth noting that both the 22116 and the G0715P have better fences than the SC 35990C, and that would be a difference that you’re very likely to notice. The fence is more critical to me than cabinet mounted trunnions, or a motor difference of 1/4hp.

You’re probably already aware that the 22116 is made by SC/Orion, and was very similar to their former model 35930. The SC35990C is about identical to the Rikon 10-201, which I suspect is also made by Steel City. It’s also worth noting that the trunnions on the 35990C/10-201 are different than those on the 22116/35930/R4511, though both are cabinet mounted.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Eric

5 posts in 622 days


#28 posted 02-13-2013 12:12 PM

I don’t think any home depots have the ridgid on display anymore.

Only reviews I found when looking were on here and on amazon. After mine gets a little more use I will try to write one. Haven’t found any cons for it in usage yet. The setup instructions were poor and I was missing two small screws for attaching a hook on the side but steel city sent me replacement parts.

This was my first new table saw. Had an old small craftsman before. Getting it all aligned was easy for a first timer. If you have any specific questions about it I would be happy to try to answer.

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#29 posted 02-13-2013 12:46 PM

Eric, would you mind posting some pictures of it, table, extensions, rails, fence?

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gtbuzz

362 posts in 1128 days


#30 posted 02-13-2013 02:49 PM

@RVRoman,

The Grizzly G0715P does NOT have cabinet mounted trunnions – they’re table mounted. In fact, they’re nearly identical in design to the R4512 and the C’man 21833 (which are clones of each other). Check out the parts diagram for the G0715P and compare to the 21833 found on the Sears website.

I can’t stress enough how careful one should be when dealing with Grizzly. Ironically, I purchased from these guys because I thought their customer service was going to be above board, but unfortunately it’s turned into a series of lies and is pretty much a very expensive nightmare right now. You can read more here: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/45211

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RVroman

163 posts in 710 days


#31 posted 02-13-2013 11:49 PM

Thanks for the insight! Also thanks Scott for your thoughts. As much as I would someday love a true cabinet saw, the reality is the hybrid will probably be my last saw, so I want to get it right (so to speak).

-- Robert --- making toothpicks one 3x3x12 blank at a time!

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Eric

5 posts in 622 days


#32 posted 02-14-2013 01:09 AM

grunt58,

I will try to get out there tomorrow after work or this weekend and take some pictures. Currently no lights/heat in the garage.

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1044 posts in 972 days


#33 posted 02-14-2013 01:27 AM

I had the R4512 for about a week. It had alignment issues. Raise or lower blade and it was out of alignment by .015 or better. It went back. Too bad, ‘cause I liked it a lot. I ended up with a Steel City 35990G. Yes, that’s right, the granite top. The miter slots are split between the main table and the wing. If you search on here you’ll find a tutorial I wrote about how to get the slots sized right while you level the wings. It’s EASY, but it’s different. I see Steel City now has a model with the slots milled into the main table. I love the granite and have no issues with it, but I don’t use magnetic featherboards or anything magnetic. As far as the front fence tube being split, I just didn’t find it that big of a deal BUT (and it’s a big but…) I will be buying a piece of square tube and replacing the front tube eventually. I built all my kitchen cabinets with it the way it is so it’s not been troublesome in that respect. The fence has been accurate enough to make cabinets at least. I’ve got 12 left and 30 right of the blade, and I haven’t done ANY work to the left using the fence. I’d actually prefer to shift it over and give me more to the right. The cabinet mounted trunions on the 35990 series give it an edge (at least in my opinion) over the R4512 with its table mounted trunions. Since purchasing the saw, I’ve purchased a Grizzly jointer and if I had been a little richer when I bought the Steel City, I may have gone to the Grizzly. But they’re all made overseas. Most of this stuff probably comes out of just 1 or 2 factories over there. Just different specs and badges.

The table saw is in the middle of my shop because it REQUIRES a lot of space. I also wanted a planer, jointer, decent band saw, etc, so I was kinda on a budget and time constraint to get the kitchen done for She Who Must Be Obeyed.

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grunt58

19 posts in 684 days


#34 posted 02-15-2013 09:22 PM

Eric thanks I’d appreciate that.

Charlie, It’s posts like that have me concerned about the R4512. Most are positive though. This is a tough decision I still don’t which way to go. Guess on to more research.

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knotscott

5513 posts in 2062 days


#35 posted 02-15-2013 10:01 PM

Grunt – It’s well documented that the R4512 had some alignment issues on early models….the exact same problems plagued the nearly identical Cman 21833, and the Grizzly G0715P that shared similar guts under the hood. To the best of my knowledge those chronic problems have been fixed at the source, and supposedly no longer hamper any of these models. That doesn’t mean you won’t encounter some old stock, or another random issue of some sort, but I wouldn’t let the original alignment problem be the reason you opt not to get that saw if it otherwise fits the bill.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Charlie

1044 posts in 972 days


#36 posted 02-16-2013 12:00 AM

grunt58, if you can get a good deal on the R4512 …. let’s say you find one at a Home Depot. ASK how old the stock is and explain that there were alignment issues and you would like to be sure it’s new stock.

THEN if they say it’s new, ASK if they’ll agree to help you get the main body unboxed so you can look for a specific alignment problem. Not a deal breaker if they tell you it’s new stock, but might save you having to move it back to Home Depot in case you encounter an issue.

Easy to check the most talked-about problem. You need to get the main body unboxed, put a blade on, and get the height adjustment handle on. Take a ruler and tape it (or hold it) so it’s just touching the side of the blade at the farthest back you can manage. lower the blade a little, and raise it a little. On a saw with the alignment issue it will be VERY evident that the back of that blade is shifting left and right as you raise and lower the blade. You only need to move it up and down like 1 turn of the handle or less to see this.

If you do NOT have an alignment issue, well I really liked the R4512. The mobile base is better than the 35990 series (although I don’t move mine very much so that’s not a huge deal to me). My R4512 was very smooth running. I was not thrilled with the fence.

Like I said earlier, I have the granite topped 35990 with the split miter slots. I LOVE the setup. It is definitely different and as such some folks just don’t like it. But once you get it set, you really don’t ever need to mess with it, so…. no biggie. No need for shimming the wings as they sit on height-adjustable pillars.

The zero-clearance inserts are MUCH easier to make for the 35990 and I like the fence setup better.

I think the R4512 had an enclosed blade shroud for dust collection. Can’t remember now, but that would be a plus on the R4512 side. Although I’m not having any problems with the 35990 dust collection.

Oh… check on THIS little gem…. you know the Ridgid warranty? Make absolutely certain there’s a warranty repair center that handles the table saws, near you. Without a nearby center, the warranty is crap. They would not SEND me the parts to fix my R4512 and the nearest center they had listed on their web site won’t do warranty work for Ridgid any more ‘cause Ridgid apparently stiffed them several thousand dollars in warranty reimbursements. That puts the nearest center about 400 miles away from me. No thanks. So just check on that and CALL the warranty center to confirm they do Ridgid table saw warranty repairs.

I bought my Steel City from a local supplier and they’ll send someone TO MY HOUSE to do warranty work on the 35990. Your mileage may vary on that one. But for me, after the fiasco I went through with the R4512 (no driving access to my shop. The saw had to be CARRIED back to the shop and then carried back out to my van to return it) this was a big deal.

My service and support issues may be just mine. But FYI anyways.

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toolie

1768 posts in 1315 days


#37 posted 02-16-2013 12:09 AM

re: ridgid tool repairs, i believe home depot stores with tool rental depts. are handing guaranty and LSA repairs. they don’t do the repairs in store, but send the item out for you. i’ve had this confirmed by someone reliable who works for HD.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Charlie

1044 posts in 972 days


#38 posted 02-16-2013 08:11 PM

toolie: My local HD stores only take in the smaller tools. They won’t take the table saws. Just FYI. Maybe it’s up to the individual store managers? I have no idea. Just throwin it out there.

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gtbuzz

362 posts in 1128 days


#39 posted 02-16-2013 11:36 PM

@knotscott

I don’t believe that the problems with the trunnion alignment on the Ridgid/Cman/Grizzly have been fixed in later production runs. I tried out the R4512 about 2 months ago (I really wanted to like this saw too…) but unfortunately it still had some pretty major issues with alignment. The blade would move left/right quite a bit while the blade was raised/lowered and it wouldn’t hold the alignment once I had it set.

The date code on the R4512 indicated that it was manufactured in September of 2012, so I really feel like it’s still hit/miss as to if you’re going to get a good one. Really think the crux of the problem is the holes being misaligned on the bottom of the table and the trunnion holes not having enough adjustability in them.

I really hate to try and talk anyone out of the R4512 because it really seems like a fantsastic bang for the buck, but that’s only gonna hold true if you get a good one. Buyer beware, I suppose.

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knotscott

5513 posts in 2062 days


#40 posted 02-16-2013 11:43 PM

Fair enough…. Anyone with a recent 21833 of G0715P have similar issues?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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gtbuzz

362 posts in 1128 days


#41 posted 02-17-2013 02:44 AM

@knotscott

Funny you should ask =) I actually do have experience (not good) with the g0715p. More on that later though.

I’d like to first say,despite my experience with the R4512, I think it’s still worth a shot given the price. Home Depot has a great return policy too. Slap a Delta T2 fence on it if and I think it’s probably the best saw you can get for that price…. IF you get a good one. I didn’t give it a second shot simply because the HD near me didn’t have a second one in stock. Should you want to try one out, send me a PM and I’ll give you some tips on how to unpack it. I came up with a real easy way to do it that you can do it with just one person.

Regarding the Craftsman 21833, keep in mind its pretty much a carbon copy of the R4512 so I’d be very surprised if they got past the trunnion issues but the Ridgid didn’t. Check the latest reviews on sears.com… looks like its still happening.

The Grizzly G0715p… don’t want to get too much into it (PM me if you’re interested) but I’ve had a whole boatload of problems with both the saw and with Grizzly themselves. Regarding just the trunnions though, I can say from experience that it is very similar in design to the Craftsman/Ridgid if not identical. The Grizzly president has mentioned that they’re not made in the same factory and I’ll buy that, but unfortunately I can also say that it suffers from the same design flaw. The second saw I have can’t be adjusted any closer than 0.015 out from the miter slot (I can bump it up to 0.030” If I want to though!). I’m still working with Grizzly to make sure I can return it for a full refund. This was a saw ordered about 2 weeks ago.

I’m back to trying decide what to do about table saws now. Leaning towards the Steel City with the cabinet mounted trunnions but to be honest I’ve been so frustrated with this experience that part of me is really tempted to just shell out for a Saw Stop knowing it’ll be the last saw I need for at least 20 years. I’m sure if I ever end up replacing it it will be more because of a “me” problem than a saw problem =).

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toolie

1768 posts in 1315 days


#42 posted 02-17-2013 02:47 AM

Buyer beware, I suppose.

right you are. but you can keep buying them and returning them if they don’t measure up. eventually, a good one’s gotta come your way, provided you have the patience for the hassle of returning defective units. a 90 day satisfaction guaranty is one sales feature i don’t think too many tool companies offer.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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RVroman

163 posts in 710 days


#43 posted 02-17-2013 03:02 AM

”...but to be honest I’ve been so frustrated with this experience that part of me is really tempted to just shell out for a Saw Stop knowing it’ll be the last saw I need for at least 20 years.”

Based on this thread, and a few other reasons, I am strongly considering continuing to save a bit longer and getting the Saw Stop 1.75 HP PCS.

-- Robert --- making toothpicks one 3x3x12 blank at a time!

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thrax

10 posts in 1231 days


#44 posted 02-17-2013 02:36 PM

Pardon the mess, garage is packed full as I remodel my basement.

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RussellAP

2959 posts in 973 days


#45 posted 02-17-2013 03:41 PM

I have a 4512 and the fence is great. It has great adjustments and it’s very solid.

I just wonder how anyone ever got a straight cut on a TS before they were able to spend 400$ on a fence???

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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Charlie

1044 posts in 972 days


#46 posted 02-17-2013 03:45 PM

thrax, is that new? Or are those older pictures?

If new, did you read my thing about doing the wing align/level and getting the miter slots sized right?

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thrax

10 posts in 1231 days


#47 posted 02-17-2013 04:58 PM

Charlie,

Those were taken yesterday, apparently I have two accounts. I posted earlier as Eric. I need to figure out if I can combine the accounts or something.

I setup the saw in the summer of 2011 I believe. I got pretty lucky with the miter slots during setup though I have only used the left miter slot so far.

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#48 posted 02-17-2013 05:53 PM

Russ, it’s not great or solid. This is what will happen to your fence over time:

A 6” rip:

A 2.5” rip

As you can see, I an still not even over the split. The sag gets pretty bad. It’s a piss poor design.

See that gap? That is with the fence unclamped. It’s worse clamped. Not only does it come out of parallel, but it is now higher than the table. So along with an uneven rip, you get a nice bevel on the piece.

I tool the entire fence off on Friday, took it apart and reassembled it. It’s good enough now, but I can already see this start to happen again.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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RussellAP

2959 posts in 973 days


#49 posted 02-17-2013 09:58 PM

Mine fits like a glove.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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lumberjoe

2842 posts in 935 days


#50 posted 02-18-2013 01:22 AM

Give it time Russ. I’m not sure how long you have had your saw but it took a while for this to develop. This is an extremely common issue and mine fit like a glove up until a few weeks ago (troll the ridgid forums). I know one member here just sold his because of this issue. Otherwise is it a very capable and accurate saw. I’m on the fence (literally) about whether or not to get a new fence or new saw. I am leaning toward new saw because the used market for this is very strong right now. I could easily get $450 for this with the two ZCI’s and my cross cut sleds on craigslist in a few hours after posting. The only problem is any saw I would consider a worthy replacement is north of 2000.00

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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