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View Jeff1968's profile

Need advice on Table Saw

by Jeff1968
posted 535 days ago


16 replies so far

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1519 days


#1 posted 535 days ago

check with knobscott. He can tell you all you want to know about this saw and a few things you don’t want to know.

-- Life is good.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5365 posts in 1971 days


#2 posted 535 days ago

LOL….what don’t you want to know?!

If you’re going to be running wire, I’d definitely include a 240v circuit (aka as 220v, but 240v is the actual). It can free up the 120v circuits for other things, allows bigger motors to be run, allows smaller gauge wire, and is more likely to deliver to full amperage during peak demands, which can prevent bogging and overheating.

The PCB270TS is one of a handful of entry level full size cast iron saws with belt drive induction motors (Ridgid R4512, Cman 21833, Steel City 35990CS are others). You bought into the right class of saw IMO….many of us mistakenly purchase cheap benchtop saws as a starter because of price. The PCB270TS is essentially a modified version of the former Hitachi C10FL that was also made exclusively for Lowes, and now includes a riving knife and better wheels….the fact that it says “Hitachi” or “Porter Cable” means very little. All of these saws are capable of good hobby work and furniture building with proper setup and blade selection, and are but none at the level of a 3hp industrial cabinet saw. All of them have pros and cons, and none offers all the “good stuff” in one package. All are in the range of 1.5hp (the 270TS is not “3hp”), all come with steel wings vs cast, all have somewhat weak fences. The PCB270TS in particular has what I’d consider one of the weaker fence in this class, but in fairness, it does seem to work. I’m also concerned about the non-metal gear used in the blade elevation mechanism. I probably would have suggested the R4512 over the PCB270TS, because I think the fence is a little better, it has a lifetime service agreement, 90 day return, and can be purchased for ~ $400 with a 20% off Harbor Freight coupon (it sometimes requires asking more than one manager or store, or getting HQ involved). Whether or not it’s worth returning and buying the R4512 is up to you.

Some table saw reading for you.

Please keep us posted on your decision.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1717 posts in 1224 days


#3 posted 535 days ago

if you paid full retail for that PC, and since it’s still in the box, i’d return it in favor of a 4512, for the reasons KS noted. @ $600, it’s overpriced for what you get , IMHO. a little effort with a harbor freight “20% off any single item” coupon at a HD will save you $100 on the $500 list price of a 4512. a net saving relative to the PC of $200 could go towards more shop tools. like the PC, the 4512 is a dual voltage saw.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1228 days


#4 posted 535 days ago

As usual, KS covered the saw in expert detail.
Most hobbyists don’t have large table saws (i.e 3-5hp cabinet saws) . In fact, most of us use table saws that fall into the same general class as your PC. You might grow into a bigger saw in the future. But it’ll likely be because you want a bigger saw, not because you need a bigger saw. And there is certainly nothing wrong with that.

Your owners manual should indicate if moulding heads are compatible. However, I’d assume it can not accomodate moulding cutters. A router is probably a better way to go in any case.

I can’t think of any reason that larger coves could not be done on the PC with the right jig/sled. I think Rockler sells a cove sled for $50ish.You wouldn’t want to hog-out large coves in one pass though.

I personally wouldn’t return the PC for the Ridgid. I don’t think the Ridgid is appreciably better. And being a xmas present, I wouldn’t diss’ a gift only to exchange it for a saw with essentially the same characteristics. But thats just my opinion. And my advice is only worth what you paid for it ;)

##If you decide to return: Buy the Ridgid BEFORE returning the PC. Those 20% HF coupons are VERY hit/miss. I’ve tried to use them at both my local Home Depots. In both cases they basically told me to “F#$* off”. I even called the regional manager…...only to be told to “F^%$ off” again.They argued that Harbor Freight does not sell a comparable product. And I have to admit; that is true.
Now I’m sure these accounts of people successfully using them are 100% factual. I’m just saying that its not consistently accepted at every HD store. And HD seems to be getting more consistent in NOT accepting the coupon. Doesn’t hurt to ask/try though.##

View SamuraiSaw's profile

SamuraiSaw

433 posts in 560 days


#5 posted 535 days ago

I agree with Ted, I’m not the least bit impressed with Rigid. Cove cuts are a definite possibility, but I doubt the molding head is.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2173 days


#6 posted 535 days ago

I feel that knotscott is one of the best versed person’s on LJs re table saws so I would not take his opinion lightly.
I have not used or seen the saw you have but I have seen and used the Ridgid 4512 and feel it’s a great bargain for the money.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

795 posts in 706 days


#7 posted 535 days ago

If you are going to be running new electric I would suggest that you run 10-3 with ground to each outlet. For the time being you can tape the ends of the red wire and ignore it. If you decide you need 220 at that outlet then use the red wire and move the black to a 220 breaker. The incremental cost of the larger gauge (10 v. 12 gauge) and the third wire (red) is minimal compared to the cost of running the wire not to mention the cost of adding a circuit later.

Also, I would suggest you consider 4×4 (4 inch square) extra deep metal boxes at each location. This would allow more room for wire. I absolute hate the situation where the wire is extra short and I have to fight to get wire off of an old receiptcal and onto a new one.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View Jeff1968's profile

Jeff1968

4 posts in 538 days


#8 posted 535 days ago

Thank you for taking the time to help me make a decision about my Christmas present. In reality the PCB 270ts was not the saw for my Christmas present but is what I exchanged my Skil $179 Christmas special table saw. Lol. I’m going to go ahead and keep the Porter Cable. Thanks again for all the help.

Jeff

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

894 posts in 621 days


#9 posted 534 days ago

I would like to hear other opinions on the necessity for 3 wires for 220v. I see a lot (and have done so myself) of wiring that uses 10-2 or 12-2 (you don’t need bigger wire for 220v.—in fact, you can get away with smaller wire, though I never use less than 12-2). All you need to do with 12-2 is to tape or paint—or use a black felt marker—the end of the white wire. That’s to show that it is not being used as the neutral. The only reason I know of to use 3 wire cable is when you are going to have both 220v and 110v. on the same circuit, as on a kitchen range. I use 12-2 on all my 220 circuits and they operate just fine. There is, of course, a ground wire as well.

It really surprised me in Australia that all the outlets are 220v, and none have a ground. All simple 2 prong outlets. How do they get away without a ground wire?

Surely some LJ can give a definitive answer as to the 2 vs. 3 wire question?

View History's profile

History

395 posts in 577 days


#10 posted 534 days ago

I feel that knotscott is one of the best versed person’s on LJs re table saws I’d have to disagree.

View Alexandre's profile

Alexandre

1417 posts in 787 days


#11 posted 534 days ago

Why would you disagree Sawsucker?
I find his information extremely helpful..

-- My terrible signature...

View History's profile

History

395 posts in 577 days


#12 posted 534 days ago

Alex, in my opinion he knows his stuff to a point, but I feel that he’s a little too commercialized in some of his recommendations.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1717 posts in 1224 days


#13 posted 534 days ago

I feel that knotscott is one of the best versed person’s on LJs re table saws I’d have to disagree.

wow, what a surprise! somehow, i feel if we all agreed that the sun rose in the east, someone (who shall remain nameless) would take issue with that to.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View SamuraiSaw's profile

SamuraiSaw

433 posts in 560 days


#14 posted 534 days ago

Scott provides some of the most unbiased reviews you’ll ever find. He consistently discusses tools in a factual manner without regard to brand loyalty. He’s far more credible than some folks around here.

Hey toolie….on a completely different note, my all time favorite question on the Newlywed Game was: In your neighborhood, does the sun rise in the North, South, East, or West? It was funny (in a sad sort of way) to see how many of the contestants would answer other than East!

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1519 days


#15 posted 534 days ago

little too commercialized

Can you expound on “commercialized”?
Frankly I consulted him about a saw and he was spot on with his answers. He wasn’t trying to sell me anything or disswade me from buying it just what I could expect if I bought it. (which I did)

-- Life is good.

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

12860 posts in 1271 days


#16 posted 534 days ago

SawSucker,
OK, you say you disagree with A1Jim’s statement; that knotscott is one of the best versed person’s on LJs re table saws.

Who then, if not knottscott, is the best versed person’s on LJs re table saws???

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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