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All Replies on Where do you install your blade on your band saw?

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View b2rtch's profile

Where do you install your blade on your band saw?

by b2rtch
posted 01-31-2013 10:53 PM


26 replies so far

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile

joeyinsouthaustin

1283 posts in 790 days


#1 posted 01-31-2013 10:56 PM

The middle, because that is what the owners manual recommended.

-- Who is John Galt?

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2963 posts in 1004 days


#2 posted 01-31-2013 10:56 PM

I’ve been using a 1/4 inch these days, but even the thicker blades will push back when stressed so starting at the front of the wheel allows room to move on the wheel I would think. I know my blade will move a bit.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3529 posts in 2678 days


#3 posted 01-31-2013 11:07 PM

Gullets at the center of the wheel.
Leaves the teeth somewhat free of the crown on the tires.
Just what I do.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View GlennsGrandson's profile

GlennsGrandson

433 posts in 1027 days


#4 posted 01-31-2013 11:19 PM

+1 for Bill.

Bottom of the gullets at the center of the wheel. That way the teeth can’t tilt/flex side to side as easy. (if that makes any sense)

-- Grant - S/N Dakota

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3528 posts in 1196 days


#5 posted 01-31-2013 11:42 PM

In the middle it is the way I was taught I have found that if it drifts the the front the teeth hit the wheel

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3587 posts in 1230 days


#6 posted 02-01-2013 12:19 AM

Bert you want the gullet of the blade to be centered on the tire not the blade, the teeth are what needs to be supported. I believe in this guy, see video great info in here.

Bandsaw Blade

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1402 days


#7 posted 02-01-2013 12:29 AM

anywhere where I can be sure the teeth will never contact metal. so it probably makes sense to load it towards the front if you are sure it tracks properly.

as far as tracking goes, if you want to get a purple fingernail without polish, spin the upper wheel on a Delta and catch that bolt behind it.

as far as metal on metal, does anybody have an idea of what to do with blades where that happens? don’t say to keep cutting wood because it won’t.

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

1707 posts in 1145 days


#8 posted 02-01-2013 01:02 AM

Blackie – Thank you for the thread http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
That cleared up so much for me. I am so grateful for this valuable information.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1073 days


#9 posted 02-01-2013 01:14 AM

depends on the type of blade I suppose, if the teeth are staggered to each side then the the teeth need not hit the wheels, however, if it’s like the majority of bandsaw blades then it’s fine if the teeth roll across the whiles, it won’t hurt them as it’s flat against the wheels. As for old dull blades, they make good card scrapers when cut up, flattened and burnished.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3528 posts in 1196 days


#10 posted 02-01-2013 01:32 AM

it would be good if the video would play

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View ScottinTexas's profile

ScottinTexas

108 posts in 666 days


#11 posted 02-01-2013 01:44 AM

I don’t even have a bandsaw, yet, but that video by Snodgrass blows me away

View REO's profile

REO

642 posts in 792 days


#12 posted 02-01-2013 02:16 AM

Blackie that is the best vid I have ever seen for set up of a band saw! Thanks!

My dad taught woodworking at the Vo tech in the early seventies. This brought back memories of his presentation. He didn’t do the snakes or the reindeer though. lol
back of the gullet centered and the guides all but touching. Then you don’t have to adjust the guides for different widths because the back of the gullet is supposed to be at the center line.

View muleskinner's profile

muleskinner

716 posts in 1155 days


#13 posted 02-01-2013 02:47 AM

I’ve been setting my blades centered on the wheel. I’m going to try centered on the back of the gullet next time. Good video.

Granted, I have minimal experience with a band saw and haven’t really developed a smooth technique yet but watching Snodgrass whipping that wood through those saws made me a little nervous. Is that standard for you band saw pros or was I right is thinking he was a little cavalier?

-- Visualize whirled peas

View derosa's profile

derosa

1557 posts in 1554 days


#14 posted 02-01-2013 02:53 AM

REO- My saw has too much flex in it, the guides need to be readjusted every time the blade changes width. My owner’s manual stipulated the center of the blade at the crown of the tire which comes close to the back of the gullet at the crown.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1281 posts in 2455 days


#15 posted 02-01-2013 02:59 AM

Carbide tooth blades are usually put on bandsaws with flat tires. They are adjusted so the teeth are free of the band towards the front. That way they the teeth will not damage the tires.
The deepest part of the gullet should be in the center of the tire.

Carter has a great youtube video on how to adjust bandsaws and bandsaw tires. They really know their stuff when it comes to bandsaws.

Here is the youtube link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View REO's profile

REO

642 posts in 792 days


#16 posted 02-01-2013 09:05 AM

Derosa often the flex is caused by over tensoining the blade. The blade tension scales on the tool are not accurate. most of the time people feel the need to over tighten because they want to push the material through to fast. We had several big band saws one was a 48” old iron that we got for 200.00 dollars because the blade kept jumping off the wheel. The fellow worked at a Dplant where they resawed material for trim and he was just feeding the saw to fast which changed the tracking on the upper wheel to the point that the blade would come off. we happily took his problem off his hands and ran the saw for years. the usual blade was 3/4” but we did run all the way down to 1/4” for cutting small circles and some 1” for resawing.

We had to build it into a platform because the table was so high it originally set into the floor. it also had wooden wheels with iron spokes. People would back up when it was turned on cause it was scary if you weren’t used to it. the blade would just whistle and the spokes disappeared.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3587 posts in 1230 days


#17 posted 02-01-2013 12:59 PM

Yea John see up above your post a bit in my post I just posted the very same video, great information in it.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3528 posts in 1196 days


#18 posted 02-01-2013 02:16 PM

John I think that is the same video blackie posted it would not play in full screen on my laptop- and I have the fattest pipe Comcast offers so it has to be on you tubes end but I watched even though it was not smooth I did learn some stuff but I also was affirmed about some stuff like coplanar is not a great thing on modern saws. I think the video rocked it should have tens of thousands of hits but it oddly does not.

How is the weather up in sac it was over 70 here yesterday I will be applying stripper today in hopes that it will be warm enough to work I hate the heat I hate the cold I need to move to Vegas or phoenix

I am curious how many of you guys removed your table to set up your band saw before watching this video. Mine has only been off the day I got the saw. I really will re tune my band saw and I think i will buy the Carter guide he used to make the band-saw box and the snake. I used to use my band saw all the time but now it gets used once or twice a week. I need to add a riser block so I can re-saw more thickness or get a band-saw like yours John.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1876 days


#19 posted 02-01-2013 02:27 PM

I’m going to build one of Matthias’ bandsaws so that I don’t have to worry about it.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile

joeyinsouthaustin

1283 posts in 790 days


#20 posted 02-01-2013 02:51 PM

Unfortunately, on my jet, it is very difficult to set the lower guides with the table in place. :( So I always do set up with the table off. If I had it to do again, I might choose a different saw.

-- Who is John Galt?

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

454 posts in 1117 days


#21 posted 02-01-2013 03:41 PM

Gullets in the center

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3528 posts in 1196 days


#22 posted 02-01-2013 05:21 PM

I have a jet and changing the bottom guides is not to bad but I think it will be easier with the table off I am going to go play with it today.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Scott's profile

Scott

104 posts in 942 days


#23 posted 02-01-2013 05:55 PM

I put it in the middle, tension it, and spin it by hand a couple rotations. Wherever it ends up tracking, as long its on the wheel I’m good with it.

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3361 posts in 891 days


#24 posted 02-01-2013 07:32 PM

Recently installed 1/4” haltbar blade on my band saw, I tightened down my blades on the wheel and I center the blade on the tires.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

2101 posts in 969 days


#25 posted 02-01-2013 08:16 PM

@Blackie—Thanks for posting that link. Great information and well presented.

@muleskinner—I was a bit nervous when he was cutting out the reindeer. I was sort of expecting the product to have some bright red discoloration in it.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View rkober's profile

rkober

129 posts in 1010 days


#26 posted 02-01-2013 08:57 PM

Alex Snodgrass’s video is pretty impressive. I watched it a while ago and had intended to try it. However more recently someone posted Michael Fortune's Five Tips for Better Bandsawing where he centers the blade but adjusts to cut straight. Both seem legitimate but different approaches. I like hearing everyone’s response and need to try both approaches myself to see which work for me.

-- Ray - Spokane, WA - “Most people don’t recognize opportunity because it’s usually disguised as hard work.” - Unknown

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