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View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

Planer Purchase

by NyTxTrialAtty
posted 12-31-2012 12:54 AM


31 replies so far

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3855 posts in 2349 days


#1 posted 12-31-2012 01:08 AM

The glue won’t do the planer knives any good … glue and paint tend to dull the blades.

The greater concern I would have is hardware (e.g. ring-shank nails) you may encounter. I worked at a bowling alley equipped with AMF pinsetters and lanes many years ago. The maple in our lanes was not glued … it was tongue-and-groove with ring-shank nails every few inches.

Have you considered the DeWalt DW735? It is a 13”, 3 knife planer that tends to get pretty strong reviews.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#2 posted 12-31-2012 01:36 AM

Thanks Gerry. I was actually looking at the DW 735 and reading the reviews on it before you replied. I am concerned about the ring-shank nails, but these boards are both glued & nailed. There are nails every 8-10” all along the length of the board.

I am concerned with the shards of the nails that I don’t see or are not visible to the eye as they are embedded in the wood.

Thoughts on getting that glue off the most efficient way?

View burlman's profile

burlman

4 posts in 664 days


#3 posted 12-31-2012 01:38 AM

Take your time with a SHARP chisel and work the glue loose. Do not be in a hurry….after all those boards were in play for quite a while!. You should be able to remove the majority of the old glue and smoothe sufficiently to plane the boards. I agree with Gerry….check the boards with a metal detector or at least a free hanging magnet to at least find any hidden iron!
Burlman

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#4 posted 12-31-2012 01:41 AM

I hope the chisel will free up most of the glue. Getting it out of the grooves is going to be a very tricky task. I wish there was a faster, more efficient, manner…

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3855 posts in 2349 days


#5 posted 12-31-2012 01:44 AM

During our summer shutdowns for resurfacing, part of my job was to replace damaged boards with a router and trammel jig. It is hard to describe the sensation you get when the router bit tangles with a ring-shank nail, but it sure gets your attention!

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#6 posted 12-31-2012 01:50 AM

Yes…that is one that I would prefer not to have to deal with. Let me ask you this – were the lanes you worked at applied with a veneer on top or a finish? I ask b/c these lanes I have do not have any finish on them. They have a veneer on top of the SYP or Maple (depending on which part of the lane it is).

But I seem to recall that the lanes either had a finish or were a veneered top. But not sure the historical significance of either. Which came first? Or lasT?

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2166 days


#7 posted 12-31-2012 01:50 AM

I agree with TheDane. The Dewalt 735 is a great planer. I have planed hundreds of board ft of wood with mine and not much seems to slow it down. The blades are easy to change too. It has a nice chip blower and two speeds which is a plus. Get yourself a metal detector used in shops to find the nails.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#8 posted 12-31-2012 02:00 AM

Thanks Wayne. I am going to check it out…

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3855 posts in 2349 days


#9 posted 12-31-2012 02:35 AM

Our lanes were 1×4 maple boards standing on edge, T&G, and nailed. No veneer or plastic. The finish we used after annual sanding was a varnish. The lanes were cleaned daily with a linaduster, then topped with a light oil.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View bullhead1's profile

bullhead1

228 posts in 935 days


#10 posted 12-31-2012 03:04 AM

I also have a Dewalt and love it. My question is the wood venereered? If it is Im not sure I would go through the effort to plain it depending how thick the veneer is. I agree with others in that the finish will raise havoc with your planer blades. If it’s solid maple that is a different story.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11224 posts in 1376 days


#11 posted 12-31-2012 03:19 AM

A drum sander with 24 to 50 grit paper is my choice for dealing with removal of hard glue, wood floor finish, and serious debris. This grit of paper makes it go a lot faster then you would think. I use this technique to thickness highly figured woods that don’t like to be planed as well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3182 posts in 1361 days


#12 posted 12-31-2012 04:12 AM

It will ruin planer blades before you get started. You need to look further in my opinion. I have tried this. Not a good experience. I was using a 24 inch industrial grade planer.

View PaulLL's profile

PaulLL

148 posts in 662 days


#13 posted 12-31-2012 04:31 AM

Im not sure where you’re located, but best price I could find for the DW735 was a busy bee tools here in Calgary. $585 with an extra set of knives and the out feed tables. HD and Lowes are $699 just for the planer.

Oh and Busy bee has locations across canada in case you arent in Calgary

View mbs's profile

mbs

1458 posts in 1626 days


#14 posted 12-31-2012 04:36 AM

I like gfadvm’s idea.

Another thought is to get a used planer with a Byrd shelix head with rotatable insert cutters. After the nails are removed and checked with a metal detecter run the boards through to get rid of the glue / finish then rotate the inserts and give the boards a final pass with new the new edge of the inserts.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#15 posted 12-31-2012 04:54 AM

@ Gerry – 1×4???? Wow. That must have been pretty impressive lanes. These are just the 1×2s I seem to find in most places that are selling bowling lane wood (Craig’s List) and most local lanes.

As for the veneer…it is a 1/4” sheet wood with a plastic veneer glued to it. Some lanes are stripped to the original 1×2s but still have remnants of the glue on them.

PaulLL - here in Houston HD they have the 735 for $629 and that includes the extra set of knives and out feed tables.

gfadvm seems to have the most logical idea. I will get the 24-50 grit sandpaper and prep them first before I go ruining any planing blades.

Thanks guys.

View mbs's profile

mbs

1458 posts in 1626 days


#16 posted 12-31-2012 05:22 AM

You’ll need a drum sander or wide belt sander for the job. These are stationary sanders, not portable hand sanders.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View Caleb James's profile

Caleb James

149 posts in 1615 days


#17 posted 12-31-2012 05:24 AM

I used a Makita 12” planner for a number of years and really liked it. My friends with a Dewalt planer loved mine. I never used anything else until I got a industrial quality SCMI (MiniMax) unit.

Beyond that I would suggest that you really need something that can accommodate carbide knives. That is about the only thing that holds up to the glue. Once the HSS blades get dulled by the glue that is it, you are done. It, unfortunately, won’t take long and that will be get costly. I don’t know if the home builder hobby grade planers these days have carbide knives, that would be worth checking into. Tersa cutter head equipped planers have them as an option but will cost about $90 each.

-- http://www.calebjameschairmaker.com, http://www.kapeldesigns.com

View Caleb James's profile

Caleb James

149 posts in 1615 days


#18 posted 12-31-2012 05:30 AM

Hey, I am out here in Katy, TX, BTW

-- http://www.calebjameschairmaker.com, http://www.kapeldesigns.com

View History's profile

History

399 posts in 667 days


#19 posted 12-31-2012 05:34 AM

For less money then the DW735 I bought a used made in the USA Delta DC-33 13” planer. 2 hp, 240v. If your just trying to salvage the wood and reuse it I’m thinking that your going to have more time and money into it then the wood is worth. planing glue, and or finishes, plus an occasional hidden nail sounds like alot of frustration and expense headed your way. I’d also choose a sander over a planer. And if thats the case perhaps sanding the lane before tearing it up might be easier.

View fuigb's profile

fuigb

195 posts in 1643 days


#20 posted 12-31-2012 06:38 AM

A couple of thoughts…

Dewalt 735 is a great planer. Not the tool for this job involving alley boards, but a great tool for so many other tasks.

Sanding is an awesome idea for a first step re: the glue and finish on these alley boards. In my arsenal I’d tee up the disk on my belt/ disc combo. Or maybe the belt w 80 grit. And if I didn’t have this tool I’d use whatever sander was handy. Regardless, this will be a lot of work so decide if the joy and/or nostalgia served by sinking hours into these boards will be worth it. I’m a frugal SOB as well as sentimental about some things, so I can imagine myself taking on this project, albeit not all at once. Oh, planing the stripped boards will probably be in order, but this is a follow-up to aforementioned sanding.

Chiseling? Yikes, I mean hell no if there’s a sander handy. If no sander and you still want the boards then break out the chisels but also the stones and the strop.

Why is glue in tongue/ grooves a problem? Unless you wii reuse this as flooring you’ll just rip the long edges of these boards, right? Get rid of the nails, but otherwise plan to give your boards a haircut and thereby remove the extraneous/ irrelevant edges from there original life.

Good luck. Please, follow up once you’ve reclaimed some of the boards and tell us how it went.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 984 days


#21 posted 12-31-2012 07:09 AM

if I was buying a planer I would go with a 15 inch 3hp with spiral head and smile all day long no knife changes and plenty of power to work all day long and last for many years just sayin happy new year

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 984 days


#22 posted 12-31-2012 07:12 AM

you can find good used 15 inch planers all day long for 700 to 900 coin

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#23 posted 12-31-2012 03:57 PM

I am going to try sanding them first. I have considered ripping them to remove the tongue, as that would seem a lot more sensible, but first let me sand them.

I will post some pics later today so you can see what I am dealing with BEFORE and then after I sand them. Hopefully, it will prove to be a worthwhile investment (my time that is) into this project.

If not, I may look for the segment (recall I have 8 of them stacked on the ground) that appears to be in the best condition and cut it to size and sand both sides and use that as my workbench top (without taking them apart).

Updates to follow…

Caleb- where in Katy are you? We are practically neighbors!

View Alexandre's profile

Alexandre

1417 posts in 877 days


#24 posted 12-31-2012 04:00 PM

Have you tried cutting away the parts “infested” with nails out? So you mark the places with nails, and cut them out, then plane them

-- My terrible signature...

View NyTxTrialAtty's profile

NyTxTrialAtty

14 posts in 667 days


#25 posted 12-31-2012 04:02 PM

Alexandre- not likely possibly. There are nails every 8-10” in every piece. It is literally littered with nails EVERYWHERE. I understand what you are saying, but it is just not a feasible idea, IMHO.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1600 days


#26 posted 12-31-2012 04:15 PM

Just for the sake of referencing another option, I have a 13in Ridgid R4330 Planer and have been quite happy with the results.

Latest model is R4331 and at HD it goes for $399
The newest model has the crank on the top instead of the side. They both use the same 3-blade cutters.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View crank49's profile

crank49

3456 posts in 1657 days


#27 posted 12-31-2012 04:23 PM

I would saw that tongue off on my TS and thus remove most the glue.
Carbide saw blade will take way more abuse than planer blades and a lot easier to replace.
Then plane it.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View mbs's profile

mbs

1458 posts in 1626 days


#28 posted 12-31-2012 04:29 PM

an angle grinder with 24g, 36g or oven 50g disk will make short work of glue and you’ll see sparks when you hit a nail. I’d start with that.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1600 days


#29 posted 12-31-2012 04:33 PM

+10 on what crank says about ripping the tongue off…OUT! ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 984 days


#30 posted 12-31-2012 05:41 PM

I concur on the tablesaw deal, thats my first option on small stuff to save my planer blades, tablesaw should do the trick

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View sixstring's profile

sixstring

296 posts in 929 days


#31 posted 12-31-2012 05:52 PM

Are you sure that veneer isnt actually phenolic? I’ve been considering buying reclaimed bowling lanes from this guy because these in particular do use phenolic for the top layer. Perfect for a killer benchtop or killing planer blades.

Just a thought…

-- JC Garcia, Concord, CA : "It's easier to ask forgiveness than permission..."

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