18 replies so far
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#1 posted 139 days ago |
I just built one of these last week. with a 120 grit belt I get the best edge I have ever gotten I have a feeling that the wheels will just sit there till something needs to be reformed. Once I got done with the modifications from American woodturner I went back and looked at Captain Eddie’s youtube #122A and B. I wound up with his version and I LOVE IT! 120 is the smallest grit I could find so I now have the 80 grit that came with the machine and the 120 I bought. -- Trying to find an answer to my son’s question: “…and forming organic cellulose by spinning it on its axis is interesting, why?” |
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#2 posted 139 days ago |
I use a Worksharp 3000, so I have no specific advice about which belt to use. I have a 6×48 belt sander that I have used to sharpen things like shovel points, lawn mower blades, and gasket scrapers. I wanted to mention that I have seen 4×36 belts as fine as 320 grit. Check at an industrial supplier. |
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#3 posted 139 days ago |
I have 80 grit and 220 grit belts that I use. For plane irons it would be too aggressive except for really rough shaping. -- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/ |
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#4 posted 139 days ago |
This is good information. I have been exploring the available grits and have found 60, 80, 120, 220, 320, and 600 grit in the 4in x 36in belts. Obviously the lower grits are cheaper, but I hope to avoid buying what I do not need. My best guess (since all is in transit from just being ordered) is that 80-120 is good for “setting the angle” and that 220-320 for cleaning up the edge before honing. While I use 600 grit manually for sharpening my HP blades, 600 grit may not be as effective on a powered “belt” system? -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#5 posted 139 days ago |
The belts will actually leave a finer surface than the grit size would indicate. You are moving a lot of abrasive material past quickly. 600 grit seems awfully coarse for a hand plane. They will cut much more sweetly if you bump that up to 1200-2000 grit. I don’t know about the size you need for yours but you can also get leather belts to fit some sanders for getting serious with some fine polishing. -- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/ |
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#6 posted 139 days ago |
I never throw away a sanding beltIF it is still in one piece. The more worn, the better i like them for sharpening. The coarser ones I’ll use for things like flattening a plane’s sole and sides. IF the irons are really bad, then they go on there as well. I use the honig guide to keep a consistant angle while on the sander. Then, when i move to the stones, I keep the guide in place. Backs of irons and chisels: Also get the coarser grits, until they are flat, then I can start to polish the backs from there. it does no good to polish a back that is no flat. Cambered irons: One of the easiest ways to camber an iron is on the beltsander. just take a circular track as you go from side to side, almost a figure eight. A cambered edge while result. By watching how big a figure eight you make, determines how much camber you make. Anything else, Sir Mike? -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
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#7 posted 139 days ago |
-’...600 grit seems awfully coarse for a hand plane. They will cut much more sweetly if you bump that up to 1200-2000 grit….”_ Yeah, that is probably why I will stay with manual sharpening of my HP blades. I go to 600 grit and then jump to my 8000 stone to finish these plane blades. I know I am probably working harder by doing it this way, but it sure seems much easier to keep them sharp after the first time, for sure. I never let them get get very far away from sharp, if you know what I mean. One of my bigger goals for this belt sander conversion is to have a decent buffing wheel set up, and there I do plan on honing my HP blades if all works out as planned. -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#8 posted 139 days ago |
Thanks for the technique tip Bandit. It sure will be nice once I actually get hands on with this stuff. I hate having to visualize something I have yet to do for the first time. So what would be a good starting stock of belts? A 5-pak?, a 10-pak? and of what grits to start with? -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#9 posted 139 days ago |
Just walk in, and grab a handful of the cheapest singles the store has. One of each grit. Try each out, and take notes on each. When you find a winner in the crowd, go back and get a pack of them, and the secnd place as well. Why the cheapest belts? Save your money, and get a dang good honing guide. Either one of the Veritas are good. i happen to have the MK1. No coarser than 100 grit. Any coarser is a waste of time, and belts. You’ll spend too much time getting rid of them scratches a coarse belt leaves. 100 grit, and go out and hog down some rough sawn lumber with it first, just to “break them in”. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
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#10 posted 139 days ago |
Actually, if you mount some leather on the wheel, it would make a nice one stop sharpening station for most stuff. -- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/ |
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#11 posted 139 days ago |
Bandit,, David, V—AFTER Conversion—V (*American Woodturner Dec. 2012) V—BEFORE Conversion—V -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#12 posted 139 days ago |
Mike, I must be stupid but I do not understand how to use this sander to sharpen turning chisels. -- Bert |
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#13 posted 138 days ago |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaqIGVmVHY8 Here ya go Bert |
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#14 posted 138 days ago |
Harbor Freight Belt Sharpening System in action (*American Woodturner Dec. 2012)
-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#15 posted 138 days ago |
Thank you Mike and waho6o9. -- Bert |
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#16 posted 138 days ago |
Two things: One, I use just a regular 3×21 belt sander.. instead of a grinder. a grinder can heat things up too fast. I can feel ( with a fingertip on the iron) when the metal starts to get too warm. Time to cool down awhile. Two: Leather belts. Is there a way to make a leather belt to take the place of the sanding belt? One COULD also rig up a plywood disc, adhere a sheet of leather to it, and spin that on the side wheelie thing. Tip: When running any edge tools on a sanding belt, place them so that the belt is running AWAY from the edge. You don’t want the edge to catch on a spinning belt, and coming flying back AT you, now do you? Too Fine a belt? Depends on when the law of lessening returns takes ahold. Buy a very fine grit belt ($$) or use a very worn out belt (00$)? Klingspor Has about any belt type you need. You can also order special ones. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
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#17 posted 138 days ago |
I really would go for a leather strop over a buffing wheel. The wheels tend to dub over the edges more. -- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/ |
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#18 posted 137 days ago |
Bandit: ”...Tip: When running any edge tools on a sanding belt, place them so that the belt is running AWAY from the edge…” Yep, part of the conversion deals with putting the belt on in a figure-8 in order to change direction. I am sure that will probably shorten belt life somewhat, but hopefully that will be minimal. David: ”...I really would go for a leather strop over a buffing wheel. ...” Good idea. If the buffing wheel works out less than ideal, I might think of adding/replacing with a leather honing wheel like this one from Tormak: $42.00 OR THIS ONE BELOW This one is just 3 1/2in in diameter with a max 600 RPM rating. Crap—Will NOT work on this sander. But will on my 8in drill press…hmm…now that is an idea… QUESTION: What is RPM of the HF MOTOR on this sander? $31.99
OR THIS ONE: This is 8in diameter -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
























