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View yellabret's profile

Rockwell/Delta Model 10 TS

by yellabret
posted 12-27-2012 02:05 AM


22 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5608 posts in 2128 days


#1 posted 12-27-2012 02:58 AM

Love the story. The saw looks great….congrats on a nice saw and a great family! With good alignment and the right saw blade, you should have little trouble with 8/4”, and you just might get through 12/4” too. The blade that’s on it needs a good cleaning, and has too many teeth to rip 8/4”, but might work ok for thinner materials if it’s still sharp. Decent blades start at under $30.

The Delta T2 is often regarded as the best bang for the buck going….it’s roughly $168 shipped from Tools-plus.com. You can sell the stock fence to offset costs. Being a Delta saw, the T2 might even be a direct bolt on.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View History's profile

History

399 posts in 734 days


#2 posted 12-27-2012 03:31 AM

I have had several Delta Contractor’s table saws that I have bought, cleaned up, and sold, and I currently have one in my shop that I bought new in 1995. Like Scott says, the Delta T2 fence is probably the best bang for the buck in a fence and should be fairly easy to bolt up to your saw. A Freud 24 tooth ripping blade would be my choice for a blade, and there are alot of other fairly inexpensive upgrades that you can do the saw as well that I highly recommend. Adding a set of machined pulleys and a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt will help the saw run noticeably smoother, adding a large paddle switch under the fence rail is more convieniant to reach, and the old location of the tiny toggle switch and electrical box tend to fill up with dust. Plugging the saw into a 20 amp, 120V dedicated circuit, or switching the motor over for a 15 amp, 240 V circuit will give the motor the proper electrical power that it needs. Limit the size that you use for an extension cord to the proper gauge for the length used. Also a coat of Johnson’s or Minwax paste Hardwood floor wax occasionally will preserve the cast iron top. If you do all of these things you will have a saw that could be the last saw that you’ll ever need, assuming that the arbor bearings are good, and that the arbor threads don’t have alot of wear from blade changes. The American made Delta Contractor’s table saws are some of the best, if not the best Contractor’s saws made. A riving knife is not adaptable to the older saws because of the mechanics of the saw. The riving knife is fairly new to the United States market and requires a different internal mechanism which raises and lowers with the blade, these older saws where designed for a fixed splitter. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I also specialize in dust collection for these saws should you ever get to that point.

View mrg's profile

mrg

535 posts in 1752 days


#3 posted 12-27-2012 04:10 AM

The T2 as mentioned is a direct bolt on fence. You can swap out the fence in less than 30 minutes. Leestyron.com offers a splitter and guard for this saw for $150 if I rember the price correctly off the top of my head. He has a 6 to 8 week turnaround on them at the moment. This saw does not have the capability for a riving knife.

Lots a luck with the saw, I have one like that and it still going strong..

-- mrg

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1381 days


#4 posted 12-28-2012 01:33 AM

echoes here on knotscott’s comments. too bad it wasn’t a left tilt saw. you didn’t mention it’s cost, so does it qualify for gloat status? also, MRG’s comments on the shark guard from leestyron.com are on the money. but if you want a splitter and aren’t too concerned about a blade guard, this delta splitter, from the sawcenter, might be a direct bolt on for < $70 to your door (check here for Delta Splitter, item number: 1349941):

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View History's profile

History

399 posts in 734 days


#5 posted 12-28-2012 02:00 AM

I need to clarify that my earlier electricty recommendations are for the stock 1 1/2 hp motor. Since someone painted yours orange I’m not sure if it is the stock motor. If it was my saw I’d paint the motor the original color which was gray like the saw, but if you don’t want to go through the time and extra expense to try to match the paint, you could paint it black like the newer saws were. I’ll also add that the motor belt guard and guard mount are still available, I can’t remember where, but I just bought a belt guard last summer for a saw that I refurbished and sold. Left tilt, right tilt, in my opinion is just another marketing ploy by the manufacturers to get people to buy new imported saws. The left verses right tilt isn’t that big of a deal. If you have a right tilt saw, move your fence to the left of the blade and you basically have the same results. The splitter/guard and mounting hardware that came with the Delta Contractor’s saw that I bought new in 1995 is still in the factory packaging and has never been mounted to the saw.

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

49 posts in 954 days


#6 posted 12-29-2012 06:12 PM

this is the fence? http://www.tools-plus.com/delta-36-t30.html

unfortunately out of stock, and $199 thru amazon. i’ll wait a little and see if they restock. so i assume this fence is more accurate and locks at a true parallel to the blade?

geeze and the splitter toolie recommends is out of stock too. with ya’lls experience with these places do they typically restock soon?

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1506 posts in 1385 days


#7 posted 12-29-2012 06:46 PM

I have the T2 on my craftsman. Its an absolute gem, turning my mediocre saw into a very capable machine. The T2 has recently been available for $168 +/-, however it appears that supplies are quickly dwindling. Knowing what I know now about the T2 goodness, I’d gladly pay the $199 (extra $31).

Delta corp has been bought and sold 2-3 times recently. Product lines seem to have changed a bit too. No way of knowing when or IF the fence when be available at all in the future, much less for $168. Theres a fair chance that we’ll be soon be talking about the “good ole days” when a the mighty T2 could be had for $199. LOL.

$199 is still a VERY reasonable price for the T2- especially if it will be a direct bolt-on to your current saw. If the budget will allow, I’d buy it. That saw your family got you is a quality machine. No reason, it shouldn’t last for decades. Same can be said for the T2. In a year, you won’t even remember (or care) paying an extra $31. And the fence can be transferred to any future saw you might purchase.

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

49 posts in 954 days


#8 posted 12-29-2012 08:06 PM

actually just scored one. there is an amazingly good private tool company just 5 miles away that had it in stock for $209 – skipping shipping charges and having it on the spot made it worth it !

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1506 posts in 1385 days


#9 posted 12-29-2012 08:56 PM

Great news. I’d gladly have paid a bit extra for instant gratification, and more importantly, to support a local biz.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 936 days


#10 posted 12-29-2012 08:59 PM

I’ve got basically the same saw, and added a T2 a few months back. Good fence, good price.

The upgrades I made were adding a paddle switch ($15 from Grizzly):

making a sled:

putting it on a mobile base, and making a bunch of zero clearance inserts for my blades.

Also, Unisaw cast iron extensions are bolt-ons for this saw.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View runswithscissors's profile (online now)

runswithscissors

1242 posts in 777 days


#11 posted 12-29-2012 10:06 PM

Google BORKstore to find out about an after market riving knife (BORK stands for bolt on riving knife). I am probably going to get one for my old Unisaw, unless I can figure out how to make one myself. The purpose of the riving knife is to prevent kickback, which is one of the most common dangers with a TS.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5608 posts in 2128 days


#12 posted 12-29-2012 10:10 PM

Bob Ross has made some nice upgrades to the BORK recently. The new ones are stainless steel and have some nice design updates. I really like my BORK on my Shop Fox saw.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

49 posts in 954 days


#13 posted 12-30-2012 07:22 PM

so are there a couple of different sizes for the T-2? i got the 30”, thats the distance across, but the guy said something about the didtance from the blade to the end – of the table i guess. we,, thats only 22”, excluding extensions. so when i lay it all out, the only way the holes match up leave the guage well off the blade and they all stick out further than i expected. i am assuming i need a smaller size, which mean shorter mounting brackets?

View History's profile

History

399 posts in 734 days


#14 posted 12-30-2012 07:40 PM

A 30” fence means, it’s designed to cut a sheet of material 30” wide. You will probably have to make an extension wing or table to the right side of the saw. Did you read the directions ?

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2420 posts in 2190 days


#15 posted 12-30-2012 07:51 PM

That’s my identical saw I’ve had since the (late 80’s)?? Mine has always worked great. With a good blade it will cut 8/4 hard wood. I regularly work with maple, oak, and walnut. It did have a safety shield on it and I use that little bolt and metal clamp behind the blade to hold a homemade aluminum riving knife/splitter. I use the same fence and find that it cuts straight. I will confess that I use the saw almost exclusively for ripping wood. I have a very nice 12” bosch miter saw for my cross cut stuff. The combination of the two works out well for me. If you find that it runs rough, bounces; replace the belt or put one of those link belts on. This saw will run very, very smoothly with a good belt.

You can adjust that small screw on the top of the far end of the fence. If you do it won’t shift even a tad and the way the locking lever is made it locks the fence at a solid 90 degrees. If you think it’s binding when putting wood through it’s probably that the wood is curved and needs to be put through a jointer first. I initially ran into that issue and after learning how to properly prepare wood I realized that it wasn’t the saw, it was me.

It’s an old workhorse and does the job for me. If all is well with your saw it should be a very doable addition to your shop and let you do so me good work. This saw originally cost about $575 new.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

49 posts in 954 days


#16 posted 12-30-2012 10:49 PM

ok – first pic the circled bolts/holes are the only holes in the front rail that are 16” apart, same as the threaded holes in the table, so this is the only place it can fit. The tube is laying lined up with the threaded holes in the front rail. once i lower this onto the rail the other pic shows where it is – zero on the scale is about 6” from the blade line, and the tube sticks out about 4” past the rail. it could work like this i suppose, but all measurements are by hand, which i do anyway to make sure i cover for kerf. but it obviously aint right. what am i doing wrong?

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 936 days


#17 posted 12-30-2012 11:39 PM

yellabret: you’re overthinking this. That’s exactly where the tape should be, because of the offset of the gauge on the fence and the location of the LEFT side of the fence. That is, the gauge is to the RIGHT of the fence locking mechanism, while the left edge of the fence will line up with the edge of the blade at zero.

Note the most complicated mod of them all for this fence: a rare earth magnet on the shaft to keep it upright when unlocked.

This is where my tape is located, just like yours.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

49 posts in 954 days


#18 posted 12-31-2012 12:08 AM

Thanks! you just saved me an embarrassing trip back to the store now, do those gauge numbers have any kerf compensation – like an average, or do you always have to compensate depending on blade….

View runswithscissors's profile (online now)

runswithscissors

1242 posts in 777 days


#19 posted 12-31-2012 12:12 AM

I don’t trust built in scales, and rarely use them. Don’t be afraid to drill new holes in the rails to make it fit your needs.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 2425 days


#20 posted 12-31-2012 12:15 AM

Nice contractor saw!

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 936 days


#21 posted 12-31-2012 01:18 AM

The plastic window on the gauge has two screws to move it horizontally left or right to compensate for your particular saw. Raise the blade, verify it’s 90 degrees (a Wixley digital angle finder is almost a must-buy), then set your fence right up against it. Then check the gauge. Adjust the window as needed.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View yellabret's profile

yellabret

49 posts in 954 days


#22 posted 12-31-2012 02:17 AM

now about a splitter – couldnt i just mill a few pieces from various gauge metal, and various shapes – so one for 1” stock, another for 2-inch, etc, so each one fits as if it were riding along with the blade? nsure its a pain to change out with every cut depth change, but, safwty pays. i cant see it being that big of a deal when cutting a lot of stock….

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