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View Ben's profile

Cherry Plywood for Cabinet Panels?

by Ben
posted 12-23-2012 03:14 AM


18 replies so far

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

447 posts in 1058 days


#1 posted 12-23-2012 04:10 AM

You do not indicate where you are located so I don’t know if this will work. I got several 1/4” and 3/4” cherry plywood sheets (4X8) two years ago from Peachstate Lumber in Atlanta. Excellent people to work with. The panels were defect free and I used them to make the bodies and the back panels of a set of book cases. They finish well and were an excellent match with the cherry face frames.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1796 posts in 1152 days


#2 posted 12-23-2012 01:31 PM

A woodworker would look at a panel and see the (most common) rotary cut grain pattern…but most of the world does not. Plywood has a lot of advantages, IMHO. Gluing it into the door frame as you mention is one of them, but it does limit you to flat panel doors. If you want to dress the flat panels up you can use an applied molding around the edge. A good grade of plywood is just that: good. I’ve had good luck with Columbia Forest Products stuff, or maybe look for State Industries.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2952 posts in 945 days


#3 posted 12-23-2012 01:34 PM

Be prepared. I bought a 4×4 piece of cherry ply for 54$. Thats a lot of money for one 4×4x1/2”.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View tyskkvinna's profile

tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1645 days


#4 posted 12-23-2012 01:43 PM

The price Russel quotes is right on par with what I regularly spend for cherry plywood. However, IMO, it’s worth every penny.

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1459 posts in 1020 days


#5 posted 12-23-2012 01:57 PM

For one of the most inherently beautiful solid woods, rotary cut cherry veneer is as boring as boring gets.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View Gshepherd's profile

Gshepherd

1472 posts in 860 days


#6 posted 12-23-2012 02:07 PM

Also you mentioned ply, which can be a layered plywood, or you can go MDF core which is usually cheaper, Dress them up with Applied Mouldings or Fancier Rail and Style design as well.

-- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2139 days


#7 posted 12-23-2012 02:15 PM

Nothing wrong with using a good grade cherry plywood for the boxes of the cabinets. We are involved with a kitchen upgrade at my house, and some of the most hi-end cabinets out there use plywood for the cabinet boxes and solids for the face-frames and doors. Use a cabinet grade plywood and you will be just fine.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2166 posts in 1509 days


#8 posted 12-23-2012 03:06 PM

The choices are, in cherry ply, rotary cut or plain sliced. Your taste dictates your preference.

As for cope and stick, we’ve been doing it for many years and it works just fine. Gluing the panel in is possible, but squeezeout can be annoying and even heartbreaking. Production shops typically angle some brads in to keep the panel from rattling. You could go one better and putty the nail holes : )

Bear in mind that the skinny ply you get will be 5.2mm, not 1/4 in, so your shaper setup needs to plow that dimension for you.

I can’t see the benefit in going to mortise and tenon for the doors unless you really like to sand frames.

Here is a piece with plain sliced red oak ply panels:

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Ben's profile

Ben

203 posts in 1516 days


#9 posted 12-23-2012 03:20 PM

That’s a nice looking piece, Lee.

Thanks for all the other good replies.
I think I’m leaning towards a raised panel in solid wood, honestly.

View dannelson's profile

dannelson

147 posts in 1030 days


#10 posted 12-23-2012 03:52 PM

The only place I use cherry ply is in a exposed upper cabinet with glass doors, uppers flanked by the range hood and refridge end panels.3/4 inch stuff works well in these areas .1/4 ply for door panels sound cheap when closed. We use space balls to stop the rattle and soft close hinges.We tried to double the thickness of the panels and then you have to go to 1 inch styles and rails= retooling =PIA.I still recomend out sourcing your doors. 12 bucks for a 12×12 raised panel soild door 100’s of choices for style and rail ,panels and outside edges, sanded ready to finish. Add up material costs and REAL time to build and I dont see how you can go wrong. Dan

-- nelson woodcrafters

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1013 days


#11 posted 12-23-2012 06:15 PM

there are a few kinds of plywood you can substitute in IF you are good enough at color matching which is in itself an art.
But yeah cherry is expensive plywood, and flat panels are accepteable. The base style of the flat panel door is called shaker so… I’m guessing that’s what you meant.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Stargazer's profile

Stargazer

49 posts in 1598 days


#12 posted 12-24-2012 03:20 AM

I wouldn’t. If you’re going through the time and expense to make cherry panel doors I’d use hardwood for the panels so it will perfectly match the frames.

You DO NOT want a rigid, glued in panel, it will crack your glue joints eventually. Cut the panel 1/4” overall smaller than the dado and use rubber space balls to act as expansion joints and will stop rattle.

Plywood is always smaller than it’s advertised size. Thus a piece of cherry ply would be loose in the dado unless you glued veneer to it to make it a full 1/4 thick.

You also do not need to use mortise and tendons in the joints unless you want to for looks. A well glued and clamped rail/cope joint will be stonger than the wood itself.

Rick

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3365 posts in 1472 days


#13 posted 12-24-2012 04:59 AM

Just buy premium cabinet grade plywood, not rotary peel plywood. Just glue the ply panels in your door frames, and it will be solid as a rock.
You can make solid wood panels, but it is a lot more work. If you want flat panels, they both look the same.
I disagree with stargazer, the plywood will not be loose in the groove because you will cut the groove with a flat grind blade to fit the plywood exactly.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1013 days


#14 posted 12-24-2012 10:00 AM

you are’t supposed to cut the panels to match exactly, you are supposed to leave soem space. I use a product called space balls to space my panels in their dados, so that they don’t move, but also won’t crack the frames, cheap, but the only source I have for them is a company from california called cabinetmaker’s suply, which is online, but the shipping usually doubles my cost on them :/

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View ronbuhg's profile

ronbuhg

121 posts in 807 days


#15 posted 12-24-2012 01:56 PM

I live in Marietta,Ga. and I too go to Peachstate Lumber and highly recommend them .. just ask for Keith,he is very knowledgeable and helpful… the cherry plywood looks very nice and stable… should work for you very nicely

-- the dumbest question is the one you dont ask !!

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

892 posts in 769 days


#16 posted 12-24-2012 02:31 PM

Decent material dealers can provide plywood in many species that as not rotary cut. I’ve even used slip-matched, quartersawn plywood in built-ins. Bring money… The only time I’ve chosen solid wood for flat panels in cabinetry is when the panel needs to be a true Shaker profile, with the raised section facing in.

On a smaller kitchen, built as a hobby, solid stock may actually be cheaper if you don’t have a use for leftover material. If time is money, plywood also saves prep time.

Just adjust the grooves to fit the thickness, as you would with any material. As a technical bonus of modern material, good hardwood plywood can be glued in place.

As far as the “high end” feeling goes… That’s an interesting term… I’ve send plenty of nicely selected, nicely finished, plywood panels, beautifully installed with leaf hinges, in well-made high-end work. I’ve also seen poorly matched solid stock, on doors (outsourced?) poorly mounted on ugly cup hinges, on “other” high end work.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1079 days


#17 posted 12-24-2012 02:54 PM

+1 to what Stargazer said. If I were going to make a “high-end” Shaker door, I would use 1/2” solid wood panels that are raised out the back of the door and flat in front.

While you can get a close approximation with plywood, it will take a stain differently and it will age differently as well. I can usually spot plywood panels from across the room, (most non-woodworkers wouldn’t).

Cherry cabinetry with a true Shaker door (large rails and stiles and solid wood panels), is one of the timeless classics and it is hard to go wrong with it. It will never look trendy, or, go out of style.

Also the rubber spacers solve a lot of issues with panel expansion.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

979 posts in 1349 days


#18 posted 12-24-2012 02:55 PM

For flat panel doors I have always used “reverse raised panel, solid wood”. This way you avoid the cheap sound of a 1/4” panel when a door closes and it eliminates any staining issues.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

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