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Tablesaw what to buy/avoid

by nicole72
posted 482 days ago


25 replies so far

View Richard's profile

Richard

400 posts in 1192 days


#1 posted 482 days ago

There’s plenty of free advice here to be sure, and I know it has been talked to death on other threads, but to speak intelligently about it, we will need to know a few things, like, what kind of woodworking will you be doing, how much you have to spend, new or used?

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View nicole72's profile

nicole72

21 posts in 920 days


#2 posted 482 days ago

So far, I have Just ripped different hardwoods to Make cutting boards, and have glued up panels to cut out 45 degree strips to make chevrons that I messed up a whole bunch of times before I finally got it right on the small saw I have….I think I want new so as not to inherit someone else’s problem saw they trying to get rid of and I would like to hope I could get a decent saw for $1500 -$2000….I would like to evolve into making a whole table, not just the table top I have done so far…..mainly will be used for ripping strips of various sizes and then crosscutting panels to square up or on diagonal for designs…..

-- Nicole

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

109273 posts in 2078 days


#3 posted 482 days ago

if your have searched on Ljs already you probably know that when it comes to table saws when someone wants a saw around $500 most of the time the Ridgid 4512 is recommended the most .Saws from $1200 to $1500 it seems that grizzly hybrid gets a lot of thumbs up. You already said your budget won’t be large enough for a Saw Stop,even so I would suggest even a contractor style Saw stop over the other saws

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5148 posts in 1876 days


#4 posted 482 days ago

Do you have 220v available? At $1294 delivered, the G1023RL is about the most bang for the buck going IMO….it’s a 3hp industrial cabinet saw, and requires 220v.

Grizzly hybrids run in the $800-$925 range

Table Saw Info

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

109273 posts in 2078 days


#5 posted 482 days ago

View nicole72's profile

nicole72

21 posts in 920 days


#6 posted 482 days ago

Yes, when I redid the old barn outback, I had it wired so I could one day have 220….and Jim that was a question for me, would the contractor saw stop do what I wanted it to and last, or to go with a hybrid or cabinet saw grizzly….so far I have all my fingers, granted one was a bit mutilated with my router table…

-- Nicole

View TechRedneck's profile

TechRedneck

719 posts in 1358 days


#7 posted 482 days ago

From my limited experience, I would look for a few things.

Cabinet mounted trunions, cast iron wings, good dust collection. Most hybrid saws should have those. I know a lot of fellow LJ’s are going to plug 220v 3hp cabinet saws which are great, however for a hobby woodworker who wants a nice saw there are a number to choose from in the $650 to $1000 range. Steel city, griz, Jet.

The fence is another consideration. I have a Craftsman hybrid that was on sale with good DC, cast wings, cabinet mounted trunions and a less than desirable fence. I like the saw, but plan on adding a Incra fence and link belt. I gave away the stock blade and use Freud fusion thin kerf blades with home made zero clearance inserts.

With all the upgrades I will have a top of the line fence, good DC, plenty of power running thin kerf blades,and dead on accuracy for around $1100.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

View nicole72's profile

nicole72

21 posts in 920 days


#8 posted 482 days ago

Great blog link for me to read Scott, thanks!

-- Nicole

View RonInOhio's profile

RonInOhio

720 posts in 1365 days


#9 posted 482 days ago

Its difficult to recommend a table saw unless one has a crystal ball into what your future needs may be. Depends on how often you will be using it and what kind of woods and thicknesses you will be running . Obviously if you plan on running a full-time operation , or you cut a lot of thick hardwoods, then you want the beefiest power and saw you can afford.

I would think if you are a casual woodworker than just about any contractor saw (500-900 dollar range) would do. However, with a hybrid or cabinet saw you are getting more power, beefier components, and likely, larger table areas, and generally much better dust collection.

Buying a 3 hp industrial TS doesn’t make a lot of sense to me if you will not be cutting a lots and
lots of wood or thick hardwoods all the time. If budget wasn’t a concern I would say go for it. But in most cases budget is always a factor. I would recommend the hybrid and use the money you will save on other equipment
for your shop.

Usually it is better to buy more saw now, (if your budget allows) so you don’t have to upgrade down the road.

View nicole72's profile

nicole72

21 posts in 920 days


#10 posted 482 days ago

Thanks Mike and Ronin….just have been so overwhelmed with choices and just not real sure how to narrow it down but you all have given me some excellent advice to go with…This saw will be used cutting hardwood mainly 8/4 sometimes, 4/4 most the time. Want something that I can grow into but at the same time I really like the idea of having money for other upgrades if a $2000 saw is over buying….definitely want a good fence… Spent a lot of time with my tape measure and calipers on that saw from Lowes, but guess what, it worked! Thank you everyone for all the input, going to scour the sites and see what I can come up with…

-- Nicole

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5148 posts in 1876 days


#11 posted 482 days ago

There’s really no comparison in how an industrial cabinet saw and a hybrid are built…..all the advantages lean towards the cabinet saw. If you’ve got 220v and the budget, a cabinet saw like the Griz, Shop Fox, or possibly a Steel City, offer more saw for the money than anything else out there IMHO. That’s not to say that you need that much saw to do the job. A top hybrid will do a good job of just about all tasks for a hobbyist, but there’s often not much of a price difference between a top hybrid and cabinet saw, so buying a less substantially built saw doesn’t make sense to me in those cases if 220v is available.

The finger saving technology of the Saw Stop means different things to different people, so it’s a personal decision we each need to make. In the $3 and $4k range, the Saw Stop PCS and ICS are top shelf saws throughout regardless of the benefit of the safety feature. At $1750, the Saw Stop contractor saw is the least expensive way of obtaining that technology, but it offers steel wings, an outboard motor, and a pretty humble fence….the guts are well built, but the topside features are much more similar to a saw costing 1/3 the price, meaning the safety feature comes at a premium on that particular model. Upgrading the fence and wings adds several hundred more to the equation.

In the end, if you choose a full size saw with a belt drive induction motor, you’ve got the basis of a good table saw. The end performance is largely determined by setup and blade selection, provided the fence and miter gauge are adequate.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View nicole72's profile

nicole72

21 posts in 920 days


#12 posted 482 days ago

So here’s a question, does the grizzly, shop fox or steel city come with an adequate/accurate fence and miter gauge or is it something you automatically buy in addition to the new saw?

-- Nicole

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2309 posts in 1077 days


#13 posted 482 days ago

Nicole, if you feel up to saving a bit more, I would get the sawstop 3HP pcs if you have 220, if not the 1.75 version of the same saw. The first time you have blade to flesh contact, the saw paid for itself many times over. It’s the direction I’m heading if things go properly after new years.

If those are way out of budget, I’d go for a cabinet saw. Grixxly gets a lot of nods, steel city also makes some great cabinet saws in your price range. Most cabinet saws come with good fences, even the miter gauges aren’t too bad. If you’ll be doing a lot of angles, get one with positive stops like an incra, osborne, etc. I have the incra v27 and it works fine for me.

Shop and spend carefully, and you can have a saw that you will pass down to your kids.
I’m on saw #3 and it’s still not my final saw…

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View TechRedneck's profile

TechRedneck

719 posts in 1358 days


#14 posted 482 days ago

I would use what you have first, try it out for a while, learn to tune the saw and dial it in. A dial indicator may help or any number of tools to help align the blade, fence and slots. This site aling with many others will provide video and instructions on proper saw tuning.

Whatever saw you get, spend the time and read the manuals, find out what it can do, how to properly adjust everything. You will be spending a lot of time together.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2309 posts in 1077 days


#15 posted 482 days ago

Mike, she’s been using her current saws for the past 3 years…

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5148 posts in 1876 days


#16 posted 482 days ago

”So here’s a question, does the grizzly, shop fox or steel city come with an adequate/accurate fence and miter gauge or is it something you automatically buy in addition to the new saw?”

The fences on most $800+ saws are typically really good….many are decent Biesemeyer copies (just one of the many benefits of buying a better saw. The stock miter gauges on most saws tend to not be so good….I’d opt for at least a $50 upgrade to something like an Incra, or at the very least add a crosscut fence to it, and/or build a crosscut sled.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Robinson's profile

Robinson

30 posts in 1193 days


#17 posted 482 days ago

I wasn’t seriously looking to buy when I saw the Ridgid TS-3850 sitting in Home depot. I walked by it looking at it from a distance on a couple of trips there then one day I walked over to it and flipped the fence release and slid the fence back and forth a few times then locked it back down. I turned to my wife and said “I think I am in love” :-)
I looked at it a few more times and on one trip one fell into the truck. I have not had a single regret over the last several years about buying it. It assembled perfectly and all of its sheet metal corners were rounded and smooth. I still really love that fence (and the whole saw).
Sadly as I look at the newer Ridgid saws (it isn’t cheating just to look) that have replaced my TS-3650 I have been pretty disappointed in how the fences feel. Not really bad, just not nearly as smooth in operation as the one I bought.

-- Francis Robinson, Central Indiana, USA - - Shopsmith fanatic

View nicole72's profile

nicole72

21 posts in 920 days


#18 posted 482 days ago

Thank you so much everybody!! I appreciate all the input!! I have been saving and want to try and get one nice durable piece of equipment as I can, and this will be my first big purchase…as it is, I think I spend more money at Lowe’s then I do for groceries at times! I am so excited and just don’t want to mess up getting the wrong thing! Am checking out all the information y’all shared and will figure it out I am sure! Thanks for responding!

-- Nicole

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2309 posts in 1077 days


#19 posted 482 days ago

If you decide a sawstop is for you, highland woodworking has the best price and no tax. $2719 shipped for the 1.75HP version, $3149 shipped for the 3HP version.

Unless you routinely rip 8/4 stock, the 1.75HP motor will be fine, but then again, it’s better to have and not need than to need and not have…
I would personally save for the bigger motor. It’s more $$, but over the entire time period of how long you’ll have the saw, it’s only a few dollars more per year of ownership.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

387 posts in 686 days


#20 posted 481 days ago

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690

$1500 to your door.

This saw has plenty of power, a good fence, a ton of cast iron, and will last a life time. The only reason to get Sawstop (IMO) is for the safety. The grizz is every bit as good a saw but without the safety.

PS, I didnt have the room for a cabinet saw so i got the sawstop contractor saw and love it. Although i dont see it lasting my lifetime.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3436 posts in 978 days


#21 posted 481 days ago

If you have waited this long simply wait a few months more and get the best and safest saw get the pcs from saw stop you will never regret it .

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3031 posts in 1314 days


#22 posted 481 days ago

Avoid Craftsman, Hitachi/Porter Cable.
Buy Jet or similar.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5148 posts in 1876 days


#23 posted 481 days ago

”PS, I didnt have the room for a cabinet saw so i got the sawstop contractor saw and love it. Although i dont see it lasting my lifetime.”

Cole – The table surface area is the same on most full size contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws. The outboard motor on the older style contractor saws adds an extra 12” or 13” depth to the back, so those saws actually take up the most space of any of the 3 main types of full size stationary saws. A stock hybrid or cabinet saw have the smallest footprint of the full size saws. It isn’t until you add options like a fence with extra wide rip capacity that any of these saws start taking up more width.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1684 posts in 1129 days


#24 posted 481 days ago

nicole72…. congratulations. at least you haven’t mentioned the overpriced, overhyped and only too average performing offerings from walter meier group (jet and powermatic). those products primarily appeal to uninformed overly pretentious tool snobs who really don’t want to know anything about machinery and value. IMHO, grizzly provides one of the best values in cabinet saws, with steel city a good second (5 year guaranty). good luck with your searsh.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View patron's profile

patron

12842 posts in 1842 days


#25 posted 481 days ago

i got to use the grizz 690 saw

it does everything my uni-saw does
and has solid and easy to adjust features
and accepts all aftermarket jigs and accessories

there were two things i didn’t like to much however
the raise/lower crank had the linkage for the riving knife
as part of it and would get sawdust stuck to it
making the crank hard to use after some time (every couple of days)

and the sawdust collected on the not very tilted bottom
and didn’t get to the suction port to well

i was just reading about the G1023RL that knotscott recommends
(i have learned to trust knotscott’s recommendations
as he knows and studies more tools than all of us combined)
and it has a shroud under the saw blade to catch sawdust there
(with a vacuum hose attached)
that the 690 didn’t have
which might help to solve those issues

and the riving knife’s that i have used at times on others saws
are super and safer than the without ones (like my uni-saw)
it pops in and out easily

best to you in this nicole
i know any upgrade is always a blessing

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle


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