All Replies on How much is this worth?

I own one of these machines and it is unusual to find one with 5HP. I believe they were built originally with 3HP 220V single phase. If it is standing upright and runs smoothly it is worth every bit of $400. Check for any accessories that may have been overlooked, molding knives, guides, extra planer knives, etc.
Dank

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

I own one of those also but had no idea of the value. I will say a friend looked at mine and said he used to own one of them. He upgraded his to a 5 hp. He and a friend shared it and the friend had it at his home when he got sick and died. My friend mentioned to the widow that the tool was his. She sold it anyway. You are not in the Houston area are you? LOL

He did say that he checked and replacement knives run $35 to $40 and the ones on the at least need to be sharpened and probably replaced.

Lol Grandpa. I’m in Ky.

I had a Craftsman 12 planer that was built by Foley Belsaw. It was a 5hp, 220volt single phase. It was a real work horse that I used for 20 years before I sold it. I used it in my business so it was used a lot. Nothing unusual to run 100+ bd ft. at a time. The only thing I ever had to do was replaced the infeed and outfeed rollers a couple times over the years. (Sears still handles the parts, or at least they did about 4 years ago). I sold mine for $300 and that was probably too cheap, because it sold immediately.
Great Machine in my book and worth it if it’s in good shape and has been taken care of.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

I have a Belsaw and I really like it.

It will deliver more dimensional consistency in boards
compared to a portable planer. The Belsaw has a
lot of mass and while the feedworks are noisy, the
cut quality is very good. Snipe is usually not a problem
though longer boards need support going in and
out.

Chip collection isn’t its best feature. I have mine as
well enclosed as possible and it still throws chips
out the front. Not a big deal, but not equal
to newer planers.

You can get a lot of different moulding knives
for it and they are inexpensive.

I see them for sale used in my area for $200 and
up. If more woodworkers knew how good they
are, they would be worth more, but as it is
they are an undervalued gem, imo.

$400 is a fair price.

I also own one and they were 3 HP normally, but I upgraded to the 5 HP model with the saw attachment. Belsaw is still in business without the Foley name and they no longer do the locksmith and tool sharpening products. I bought a new set of blades 2 years ago and they were $55.00 then. The saw blade is an 11/8” arbor and when I got mine carbide was not a choice but mine is 25 years old and I have not replaced the blade and don’t use that feather. Use the planner several times a week and it walks through Pecan (very hard like Hickory of which it is in the family). Yes, it came with 3 sets of moulding cutters and infeed guides but outfeed guides are extra. It needs a 3/4” table riser for moulding, so he may have made one for it and will throw it in as well as the out feed guides. The owner’s Manual is available on line. Their current model is now a 15” machine v.s. the 121/4” of yesteryear.

A strong great machine. A little tedious to set the infeed and out feed rollers for smooth operation, but once set they stay put. The owner’s manual provides the near perfect settings.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

Seems like a good buy if it’s good shape.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

I have one that’s still a 3hp. Major workhorse. Heads are expensive….like VERY expensive. But, if you are doing production work, it would be worth it. Heads are too high for hobby work…that’s my opinion

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

He said its going to need new blades which sounds like another $50 or so. And it will probably cost $50 in gas to go get it, so probably about $500 all together. I don’t mind paying that much for a planer, but is that going to be better than getting like a dewalt $735 for about the same price? I like the idea of it being a floor model, although floor space is at a premium right now.

That planer and the dewalt are light years apart. Go get it !

Offer him $350 since it needs new blades. It’s still worth the $400 plus blades, but it won’t hurt to offer less.
The knives that are on it may be able to be resharpened also. I would really check the infeed and outfeed rollers on it also.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

I am going to call and talk to him tomorrow and get a little more info. It sound like these are pretty good planets from what everyone is saying. Just kind of nervous buying this and not knowing much about it. I was thinking at least something new had a warranty. If the rollers are bad would that be a deal breaker for you? Would they be fairly cheap to replace?

+1 cabmaker and +1 huff. I almost bought a second one just to avoid change over time. Don’t get a light weight planer like the portables. This machine is as critical to any shop as a table saw, so you don’t want to compromise any more than the Belsaw already is. You will appreciate its mass.
Bad rollers are not a deal breaker. They are easy to replace and I think I priced some for mine at $18 apiece, but that was a while ago. The rollers don’t have to be perfect to work adequately either. Unless the rubber is torn more than 25% of the way across, you’re probably gonna be OK for a while.
These machines mostly use consumable parts readily available at a good hardware, farm supply, or woodworking store. I’ve owned my machine for 35 plus years, replaced the rollers once, and am on the second set of blades. It sees hundreds of bd ft per month and if you are careful to distribute feed wear (like any planer or sander) things will last a long, long time. I’m offering to sharpen those blades for you for shipping costs if they need it. I’ve learned that you can stone the blades in place several times before removing them. They are a pain to reset without a special gauge that measures protrusion. But that is the trade off for being able to extend the blades until there is safety to consider.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

+1 Dan, I would not be afraid of that machine if it’s in any kind of shape at all.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

I just got 2 sets of new knives from http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/, totlal with shipping was $69

Mine has a 3 hp and I just ran a bunch of 8-10” ash and maple through it. It never even slowed up and in some cases I was chopping close to 1/4”.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

You guys are making me want to go get it today, sounds like a very good planer. I plane on going to see it tomorrow and unless it looks like junk i will probably be bringing it home. How much does it weigh? I will have to run 220 to my shop, which shouldn’t be to big of a deal since I ran conduit underground. Thanks for the offer Dan, I may take you up on that. But I would insist on paying you something for your time.

I’m all set up to sharpen mine, so it won’t take but a few minutes. Not worth paperwork… :)
They weigh about 300 lbs, maybe a bit more with 5 hp motor in it. Two sturdy men should be able to tip it into a pickup. However, remove the extension tables first. It won’t hurt it to lay on its side (or better front or back), and it will ride better because they are pretty top heavy. If you choose not to do it that way, then be sure to put your straps through the planer on the bed, again with extension tables removed. Then you can cinch it down well enough to travel.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

I talked to the guy about the planer. He is the original owner and he bought it 20-22 years ago. It is the original knives. He said they have a couple of nicks in them and he has always just polished them up without removing them. He said everything is in good mechanical condition. I think I may call him back in a bit and tell him I can only go $350 since the blades need replaced and its a decent drive to get it. He just bought the 15” grizzly with helical heads and has a shop full of machines. We talked a good 30 minutes and I forgot to ask if he had any accessories.

Well then I’d say there is a lot of life left in those blades. If you can get to the end of the head to see how much blade there is, anything over 1/2” is usable. Less = replacement for sure.

It almost has to be a good machine. He just got the wants for the spiral head. We all do, but some pockets are deeper than others. Negotiate aggressively.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

I was thinking about offering $300 because of the blades, the distance and plus I will have to run 220 to my shop. I only have 110. I plan on running 220 anyway. Was hoping to wait until spring.

Why would you insult this guy with a lowball offer just because YOU need to upgrade YOUR electric and YOU have to spend gas money? A 20 year old machine is not an antique and there are no unknowns here. Blades are a maintenance item. You either want it or you don’t, and if you do just go get it and pay the mans extremely fair price- it will be the pants off a lunchbox planer any day.

Dhazelton, have you not ever negotiated? Do you just always pay what someone is asking? I just sold a router today for $60. I was asking $80. If he chooses to accept an offer below what he is asking is that my fault? If he doesn’t accept it, does that mean I won’t come back and pay what he is asking? No. I am just trying to get into woodworking and I need to buy several tools. And I just said I was thinking about it, I haven’t even made an offer. It has been my experience that most people ask more for something than they will actually sell for. This is just a hobby for me, and it can get very expensive. I have a family to feed and bills to pay just like everyone else.

And I talked to the guy for about 30 and he told me about a bunch of craftsman tools that he got brand still in the box from a guy that went and bought everything new. He hurt his hand or finger from kickback or something and he never even opened the other stuff up. He offered the guy half and the guy said no. He said he didn’t even make it home and the guy called and told him to come get the damn machines.

Yes, I have negotiated, but I don’t negotiate when I know I’m getting a great deal. You asked if the machine was worth $400 and people here said an emphatic ‘yes’, run and get it. If you don’t have $400 for a machine or the gas money or electric in place then get a cheaper, closer, 110 machine. But you seem to have $735 for a Dewalt, so either pay the $400 or go spend $735 – the choice is still yours. And if you have to feed your family, make that a priority and skip the planer altogether. You said it – it’s a hobby.

I typically make an offer. Most people expect it. I’m not arguing right or wrong, I just think most people expect it. They can respectfully decline the offer, counter offer or get mad, its up to them.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

You are right, seems like everyone does agrees that it’s a great deal. And yes I could pay $550 for the 735 but I haven’t because that is a lot of money and I’m trying to be patient and get a good deal. And I sure don’t want anyone to feel like I’m trying to rip them off. I have no problem paying $400 for a machine that I know is worth it. But I also know that I’ve bought and sold several things on CL and I hardly ever pay the asking price, nor do I ever receive asking price.

Here you can see he is asking just at or below market value:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Foley-Belsaw-5hp-12-Wood-Planer-Molder-/130797130120?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&nma=true&si=uTyyqEI0ho%2FWWnDAqg7jvu0MAXM%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Cat, Be sure to ask for the blade setting jig, It came with the machine. Its a cast metal three legged dome shaped unit with a screw that is inserted from the top and passes down into the item to rest upon the blades at two or three places along the blade edge. As I recall the screw is fully seated then backed out 11/4 full turns to get the correct height to advance the blade out to during installation. And ask for the molder cutters he got three at least as part of the original purchase.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

I see those all the time around here. $400 seems to be a common price!

Don’t forget the value of the accessories like moulding knives. Look for the cost of a new set and you will see what I mean.

+1 for handtooler about the setting gauge. You’re going to have a hell of a time getting them set right without it, though I have used a dial indicator just for the learning experience.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

I don’t think he has any of the molding knives. Sounds like it is just the planer. I know it doesn’t come with an aligning gauge because he said I would need one.

Cat, My planner purchased in 1984 is Model number 984 with the saw attachment; the model 985 is without the saw. You may contact Belsaw at 1-800-468-4449 or belsaw.com. My most recent accessories catalog sheet lists three knife setting gauges, which straddle the knives and rest on the cutter roller; all different than mine of 1984. P/N’s SC-001G is the dial indicator their best, measures 0.001”. 4501960 “Sure Set” knife setting gauge,is an anvil model with a sliding pin that raises through the top indicating alignment. then MGA 814D Economy Gauge is similar to mine but the center anvil is fixed so you just raise the knives to reach the device. All come with instructions. My catalog sheet has NO prices listed since they change periodically.

I recently added the dust collection hood just this year and it was $79.00 plus shipping It works super with a 4” hose to the dust collector, very little shavings escape to the in-feed side. So that in itself has value. Good Luck.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

I got it home, now if I can just get it unloaded and in the shop. This thing is heavy!!! I am glad I got it and can’t wait to get 220 ran and a new set of blades. I will probably try and build a dust collection hood out of sheet metal. It may not be new, but I beleive I will get a lot of good use out of it. He didn’t any molding knives or any accessories, but I think it is still worth $400.

Congrats! I’m sure you will be happy with it. Good luck and enjoy!

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

Is this and the Belsaw Foley one in the same?

Get the new Dewalt You as a hobby woodworker will regret the foley, big time.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

I went and got this machine today. We ran a few pieces through and it did great. I almost bought the 735, but this seems like a well built machine and cheaper. I also like that its a floor model and not a bench top.

I did a little bit of researching and it looks like if the craftsman model # starts with 306 then it was manufactured by Belsaw. Does anyone know how to go about finding out how to order blades for this?

Here are a few pictures.

Cat, Yes see the contact data in my last post. They’ll give you a catalog with latest prices. I paid $55.00 for a set two years ago.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

I mentioned this in a previous post, I just got 2 sets of new knives from http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/, total with shipping was $69.

They are a bit more at belsaw, but if you call belsaw (http://www.belsaw.com/) , they are extremely helpful.

Here is the conversion chart for the sears model #, http://www.belsaw.com/sears.html

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

congrats

-- Joel -- http://diversitywoodworks.wordpress.com

Thanks for the info Don, I went back through the post and looked, guess I overlooked it. I will check that website out in a few minutes and probably go ahead and order a set of knives. I am also going to need to get some gauges to set the knives. I found an older 8” grizzly jointer on CL for $300. It looks to be in pretty good shape. I emailed the guy and am waiting for a response.

I made a set if you look through my blog series. i think it was the 2nd or 3rd from the last.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Well, there goes another one. He’s bit by the tool bug…!
FYI I’ve never owned a jointer and don’t plan to. It is just too efficient to cut straight edges glue joint ready on a good table saw setup.
Congrats on the planer! You did good. Put a coat of wax on the bed and then do it again. Watch your hand under the knives!
An I’m serious about sharpening those for you if they are wider than 1/2”. PM me if interested in details.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

Watch your hand under the knives!

Didn’t I run my hand across mine last time I waxed my bed. Brand new blades. Hit blood before they ever seen wood. I felt like such an idiot!! It wasn’t a bad cut, but those nice clean cuts bleed like a son of a gun.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

I guess you could say I’ve been bit. I would really like to be set up to deminsion rough lumber. I am fairly new to this and am open to alternative methods of jointing. My main goal is to be able to buy rough lumber so that I can save money in the long run.
But I do love working not only with machines, but hand tools also. I would like to have a good selection of hand and power tools. I am 41 years old and have always enjoyed working with wood, but seemed like I never had the money or time. Now, I am finally at a point were I can start getting more serious about it. I may not be buying new tools, but I will try to be selective and get good ones.

So I don’t know if I’ll ever take the jointer out of my shop, but I don’t use it a lot.

You can’t say I like cutting a glue joint on a table saw (although I know it can be done) a good Stanley #7 or #8 can joint a board quicker than the table saw.

The only reason I keep my jointer, is if I’ve got a stack of lumber to joint, I’m just not ambitious enough to do it by hand. Now, I own a saw mill, and that’s why I’ll have a stack of lumber. If you’re just doing a project at a time, the hand planes will do just fine. (or the table saw, or the router or whatever other means you decide on)

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Like Don W says, watch your hands when installing blades. I recommend putting two layers of masking tape over the blade edge before installing. After the blades are in and locked up, you can carefully peel off the masking tape. You’d be surprised how sharp these new blades are and how easy it is to have an allen wrench slip or have your hand slip.

And one other thing. When doing the new blade installation be sure not to change the blade height setting in any way. A set of blades have them all ground so each edge is exactly the same distance from the back of the blade. As long as you don’t mess with the blade height adjustment you should be ready to go after the blades are installed.

Planeman

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!