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View Holbs's profile

which wood is best, for beginner / amateur?

by Holbs
posted 613 days ago


23 replies so far

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 888 days


#1 posted 613 days ago

Keep your practice to hardwood, softwood is a totally different ball game. Softwood like pine and cedar has lots of knots and the fiber just falls apart when you try to do anything fine with it. Hardwood like oak and walnut cut like putty and rarely splinter or flake in precise corners. If you use any power tools the softwood will just snap off when you try to mortise anything under 3/4 of an inch. Plus not that many real life uses for fancy joinery with pine because most of your furniture makers use hardwoods.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1571 days


#2 posted 613 days ago

I see lots of people on here use (or repurpose) old pallets. If there’s a motorcycle dealership near you, pop in and ask if they have any packing materials you can have – lots of oak pallets apparently.

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1717 days


#3 posted 613 days ago

pine , fir ,poplar etc. is great wood to practise with
just grap the cheapest you can get
maybee there is knots in it but that is possiple to work around
thugh you shuold beaware that softwood like pine will tell you if your chisels is sharp enoff
or need to be honed when you do endgrainwork dovetails or tennonwork
many will tell you that its sometimes easyer to work with hardwood when it comes to endgrainwork
maybee I do not know yet

don´t forget scappieces/cutoffs to practice on later in your journey :-)

good luck
Dennis

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1760 days


#4 posted 613 days ago

I think one of the best woods for practicing joinery is poplar. It’s cheap and just hard enough to stay together when doing intricate cuts. I’m sure there are others, like ash, beech, etc. but poplar is the one we seem to get down here in Texas.

The issue with the pines, firs, and spruces is that they tearout when doing machine joinery. They are enjoyable to work with hand tools…really sharp tools can reduce some of those issues.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View Dave G's profile

Dave G

169 posts in 650 days


#5 posted 613 days ago

Poplar works like typical hardwood. The mistakes and efforts I make in poplar are the same I make in cherry and maple and beech. Poplar is very very much like soft maple. Oak is different from all those and gave me some new learning when I first started with it.

Unfortunately the box stores charge as much for poplar as I pay for cherry at a hardwood yard.

-- Dave, New England - “We are made to persist. that's how we find out who we are.” ― Tobias Wolff

View derosa's profile

derosa

1532 posts in 1437 days


#6 posted 613 days ago

I’ll second going for pallets or call around to some cabinet shops and see if they will sell their scrap for cheap and tell them why you need it, they may just toss it your way. Industrial places and repackaging places get some really heavy duty pallets. Best is if you have a sawzall, I find the runners half the time aren’t worth the trouble with the nails they use, so slice out the middle for actual lumber and slice off the ends for practice pieces. I’ve got 2 pieces of 1.25×6x36” pieces of clear white oak and another 3 that are only 4” wide, just make it battery powered and you don’t even need a truck.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Dave G's profile

Dave G

169 posts in 650 days


#7 posted 613 days ago

I don’t know why but those stores that sell wood stoves and pellets for wood stoves have great piles of pallets.

-- Dave, New England - “We are made to persist. that's how we find out who we are.” ― Tobias Wolff

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1762 days


#8 posted 613 days ago

For starting out, I would strongly suggest POP ( Plain Ole Pine ). I can often get it Free from dumpsters where they are building houses. Those loooong dumpsters. I rather like the knots:

You can make finished pieces, or just use it for practicing. Yes, it has its limitations. However, LOTS can be done with it. One big reason I suggest Pine is that you are not as afraid to mess it up. And if you are successful, then you can have a usable piece when you finish. Poplar & Mahogany would be best for practicing hand-cut dovetails. Oh, and have scary sharp chisels.

What tools do you have? What kind of proejcts would you like to concentrate on? Do you need already dimensioned lumber or do you have a Jointer & Planer?

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View jap's profile

jap

1224 posts in 656 days


#9 posted 613 days ago

free stuff!!!!!

-- Joel

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1804 posts in 1833 days


#10 posted 613 days ago

I have been using white pine for more than 30 years with no regrets.
1) Corner hutch made in 1983 (recent pic)

2) Toy Box made recently

3) Shelf

And then there is cedar bought milled on one side and both edges…some 1×3 pickets.

And Red Oak. I buy as much as I can at the hardwood seller when they have short pieces (<48 inches) on sale 50% off.

Gitchasome and get to slinging sawdust.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

511 posts in 631 days


#11 posted 613 days ago

rance: i have a joinery book, planer, joiner, router, table saw… lots of goodies. but what i dont have are chisels. I guess that is next on the shopping list.

i’m not worried about knots or strength, as these will be expendable training exercises. seems popular is a good choice to start with.

there is a “cabinet finishing” shop infront of my work. i’ll have to ask them next week for bottom-feeding spare parts.

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 695 days


#12 posted 613 days ago

I think pine is a perfectly fine wood to start with. Pine is a lot softer than hardwood but it’s not crepe paper. Sharp tools can usually cope with the knots.

As far as starter hardwoods, I too suggest poplar. It’s probably the cheapest of the hardwoods. It’s also not so terribly hard that it will be impossible to shape.

Cherry and walnut are nice but they cost a lot more and you won’t feel free to screw things up (i.e. learn) on such expensive wood.

Don’t get poplar at Home Depot though. It costs an arm and a leg there.

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5257 posts in 1200 days


#13 posted 613 days ago

Unless you are using construction type lumber, HD and Lowes wood prices are quite high compared to hardwood suppliers. Always look on CL for some scores, and online as well. I think poplar, as mentioned is a good wood to start with. Beyond that, Birch in my area is not too expensive and can have a nice appearance. I am really not a red oak fan, but that is just me.

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

620 posts in 774 days


#14 posted 613 days ago

Pine or poplar are good for practice and finished pieces. I see from your profile you are near Reno. Google hardwoods reno see what comes up and then visit some of the cabinet shops see where they get thir wood. Reno is big enough there should be a couple of hardwood suppliers.

Bruce
Boise, ID

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1178 days


#15 posted 613 days ago

+1 on poplar or pine.
If you’re making serviceable projects, go with pine. It takes on a great look as it ages. Just for practice, poplar. Both are great starter woods. Poplar is excellent for shelves.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1762 days


#16 posted 613 days ago

With a jointer & planer, you have more options of turning found/free wood into usable lumber. Go, build, then post your results(good or bad). I think you’re gonna do very well.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 695 days


#17 posted 613 days ago

You can use construction lumber if you like. The main problem with construction lumber that I’ve run into is that it is just too thick. Plus it is often not dry enough. But at the end of the day you can use just about any wood you want if you think it’s useable.

Many people like to paint poplar, as opposed to staining it. Paint can cover up mistakes so if you don’t like the look of the project at the end you can just paint it instead of stain it.

Above all, try to feel free to make mistakes and destroy things.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112000 posts in 2179 days


#18 posted 613 days ago

I would go with poplar its not real expensive and it is hard enough to work in a similar manner as to other hard woods.
I’m glad you like Gary’s book I think it’s the best joinery book out there.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View kizerpea's profile

kizerpea

746 posts in 969 days


#19 posted 610 days ago

Free wood is the best…old pallets…my last project is from pallet wood router bit storage…if u zoom in u can see the nail holes..i find pine ,poplar ,oak , an cycpres…sometimes maple

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 878 days


#20 posted 610 days ago

Don’t practice on really nice wood yet. Get some pine, or poplar.

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

View Richard's profile

Richard

400 posts in 1293 days


#21 posted 610 days ago

+1 for poplar, I got some awhile back from a lumberyard near me that had some 2 foot cutoffs for cheap, explicitly to practice with.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View David Dean's profile

David Dean

489 posts in 1501 days


#22 posted 610 days ago

The best thing to do is get you a good planer a floor one not a table top and fine a sawmill in your area but I get 3/4,1/2,1/4 plywood from the dumpser at my local cabinet shop and I buy my oak as srape for $ 1.00 a bf so you can talke to some of the cabinet’s in you area and swamill.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1804 posts in 1833 days


#23 posted 610 days ago

...and if you do practice on pallets, check them closely for nails, staples, and/or slivers of metal. A metal detector helps but I have somehow let a few little ones through. Not good on the planer blades.

Cedar, oak, poplar and a few other hard and softwoods look pretty nice after a little cleanup.

I made these simple crates using reclaimed pallet boards.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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