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BS Newbie with "Stupid ???" re: Rikon 10-325 Purchase

by DIYaholic
posted 11-16-2012 11:10 PM


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82 replies

82 replies so far

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#51 posted 11-18-2012 06:52 PM

Todd,
Are the GI bases foot operated?
Do the GI bases have 2 or 4 locking wheels?
Do you remember how much $$$ they cost?
I have a local supplier of GI, and would like to support the local economy.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1195 days


#52 posted 11-18-2012 06:55 PM

Yes. I can set the locks with my toes.

Front two wheels lock.

@ 60-70 dollars.

I like them because they are versitile. Lots of screws and lots of adjustability. I have one on my TS, DP.

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

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LeChuck

418 posts in 1752 days


#53 posted 11-18-2012 08:46 PM

I don’t go cross country with my saw and have a relatively smooth concrete floor, but no, it doesn’t seem particularly tippy when it’s on the base or being moved. I mounted the 2 lifters on the short side of the saw out front, otherwise it would certainly get a bit awkward when lifting. It’s a mistake I made with the base I installed on my small jointer, but that one will be moved to the drill press eventually.

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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toolie

1769 posts in 1318 days


#54 posted 11-18-2012 09:02 PM

Toolie,
Bummer on your experience with the HTC base. Could you not do what HorizontalMike did and add 2X 3/4” ply mounted to both the HTC mobile base & saw base?

unfortunately, i don’t have the room to spend 6” on enlargening the mobile base:

besides, the model of htc base on that saw, which is a holdover from a POS jet 18” BS i got for $40 (no typo) on CL, doesn’t appear to provide for plywood base pieces as does the wood river base i linked.

regarding the GI bases, i have one under a ridgid jointer and, while it operates well, it tends to be a little too wobbly and sometimes a little to like the HTCs in it’s operation. but i would still take the GIs over my HTC.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#55 posted 11-18-2012 10:11 PM

Todd,
Thanks for the info.

LeChuck,
I my self get a little tippsy, but I don’t want my BS to be!!!

Toolie,
I can see how you are quite cramped for space. You have certainly become a master at space utilization!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#56 posted 11-19-2012 12:27 AM

Wow toolie, now THAT is is a neat way to park in a tight space! Well done!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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Fishinbo

11301 posts in 865 days


#57 posted 11-19-2012 02:24 PM

As to your blade choice, visit www.sawblade.com . The friendly sales staff will help you sort out the best blade for your needs.

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#58 posted 11-20-2012 04:08 AM

Fishinbo,
Thanks for the link. I will check them out.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#59 posted 12-04-2012 02:59 AM

Update:
I picked up my saw, the Rikon 10-325 14” BS with 1-1/2HP motor and 13” of Resaw Capacity on Saturday, 11/24/1012 and finished assembly and setup this evening.
I ended up getting the Porta-Mate PM-1000 mobile base, at WOODCRAFT on sale for $40.00. I did widen the stance and used 3/4” ply.

The BS Base on Mobile Base:

The BS:

First Cuts on oak flooring:

Thank you EVERYONE, for all the help, information and input!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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LeChuck

418 posts in 1752 days


#60 posted 12-04-2012 03:10 AM

Congrats!

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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Luke

540 posts in 1983 days


#61 posted 12-04-2012 03:53 AM

I have this exact BS myself. The stock fence is great. The stock blade is just okay. The stock bearings are pretty good. I would suggest buying the BS and a 3/16” and 3/4” woodslicer blades from highland. This has completely satisfied all of my needs.

-- LAS, http://www.abettersign.com

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#62 posted 12-04-2012 04:59 AM

LeChuck,
Thanks for both the congrats and the help you provided earlier!

Luke,
I am your father…..(In my best James Earl Jones voice), Sorry, had to say that. I have the saw and a couple of Sterling 3/8x.032x3TPI X-tra Duty Carbon Blades from these guys. I’m planning on getting a few more blades, once this saw tests out OK.

I am soooo looking forward to putting this saw through it’s paces!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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JoeinGa

3354 posts in 696 days


#63 posted 12-04-2012 05:06 AM

Dude! You could cut SHEETS OF PAPER from that board!
I have an old (1960’s model) 14” Delta that I just put new tires on the wheels. I was amazed at the difference that in itself made. Next I’m gonna try to make a fence so I can resaw with it.
This site ROCKS! I’ve gotten more ideas in the past week than I’ve ever had! How come I never found this site before this is a mystery to me :-)

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#64 posted 12-04-2012 05:16 AM

joein10asee,
WELCOME to LJs!!! This is THE site for any & all things WW. The people & projects are amazing, not to mention the exchange of knowledge that transpires here.

I’m new to (real) bandsaws, so I’ve plenty to learn. You can replace the word bandsaw with any tool/machine and that statement would still be true!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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MarkSr

215 posts in 740 days


#65 posted 12-04-2012 05:28 AM

joein10asee,
WELCOME to LJs!!!

I’ve only been a member for 50 days today, but like you said what you learn here at this site,from the great bunch of guys in the WWing hobby, business, experimental playing around, you name it, and it’s here, and everyone is happy to give their opinions, be it expert or just off the cuff, I read every word when I need an answer or opinion, because I am soooo new I am still building my work shop.

Do I have a surprise to show everyone, I figure in another 30 to 40 days, because of the Holidays, I will put up my rendition of “My Building of an EL-CheapO Work Shop on a Budget”. Coming soon I hope.

-- Mark, ”...NEWBEE: On the road to learning a lot; but; a lot more to learn…” ("My Granddad used to tell me, if you didn't learn something new today, it just wasn't worth getting out of bed")

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#66 posted 12-04-2012 05:35 AM

MarkSr,
WELCOME to LJs!
I too am in the process of building my shop, progress is posted on my blog series.

Enjoy your stay here on LJs, a great place to feed your WW insanity!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#67 posted 12-04-2012 09:40 AM

Randy,
Can you still get the BS cabinet door open? It looks like the base ply is a bit short and the mobile base corners might get in the way?

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#68 posted 12-04-2012 01:17 PM

HM,
I CAN open the door! I only needed one 3/4” ply and I was good to go. I measured and tested prior to any assembly of the pieces parts. I can see that the rear wheel locks on the HTC-3000 stand taller than either other base, requiring additional plys. Were I to add another ply, my saw would hit the ceiling of my basement shop, when the height/blade guide is raised to it’s maximum (I have 1/4” of clearance now, and that is WITHOUT the plastic cover that extend out/over the R&P).

BTW: I may eventually upgrade the mobile base to the HTC-3000, for the 4 locking wheels. For the price, I had to try the PM-1000!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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toolie

1769 posts in 1318 days


#69 posted 12-04-2012 04:06 PM

congrats on the buy and build. i’ve yet to see the 10-325 get a negative comment anywhere on the web. and the staff at rikon are incredibly helpful.

i have a similar base from htc on my 10-340 and it sucks. those long throw cam levers are annoying . however, you did avoid falling into the timberwolf blade trap. good luck with the new saw

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#70 posted 12-04-2012 04:23 PM

Thanks, Toolie. I did not drink the “Timberwolf Blade Water”!!! I got a great recommendation for the blades that I chose, so I went with them. Time will tell…

I do have a slight issue with the CI table though. When I square the table to the blade (Picture an L, where the blade is the vertical & the horizontal is the table), using a Groz 6” machinists square on the right side of the blade, all is good. However when I put the square to the left of the blade there is a 1/64” (.015”) gap at the bottom. I need to get a machined straightedge, to check the flatness of the table. Any suggestions for a good inexpensive straightedge?

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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LeChuck

418 posts in 1752 days


#71 posted 12-04-2012 04:30 PM

Randy, check the connecting bar at the front of the table, the one that closes the channel and attaches the 2 halves together and see if it is fully tightened and if tightening it more will make the table totally flat and square to the blade on both sides.

As for a straightedge, I use the Veritas aluminum (black) 24 inch one and I’ve been happy with it. Reasonable price, flat, and not too heavy.

David

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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LeChuck

418 posts in 1752 days


#72 posted 12-04-2012 04:34 PM

By the way, thanks for the link for the blades. I’m using the stock 5/8 blade and it does an ok job but I’d like a narrower one for curves, and the one linked seems to be able to resaw as well. How is the cut smoothness on non-resawing cuts?

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#73 posted 12-04-2012 04:40 PM

LeChuck,
I have not used the Sterling blades yet, as I’m testing with the stock blade first. Don’t want to FUBAR something I paid for, yet!!!

BTW: Thanks, for the heads up on the straightedge.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#74 posted 12-05-2012 09:51 PM

Randy,
That stock 5/8in 6TPI is not that bad of blade if you keep the feed speed down. I think it is the 6TPI that gets in the way of clearing the gullets.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#75 posted 12-05-2012 10:19 PM

HM,
That’s good to know. I will eventually switch out the blade, but for testing and some shop projects I will use the stock blade.

To any & everyone,
What do you use to determine the flatness of your tables??? I really don’t want to spend $$$$$ for a precision ground bar!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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LeChuck

418 posts in 1752 days


#76 posted 12-05-2012 10:22 PM

The one I mentioned before cost $27.50 from LeeValley. I use it for everything.

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#77 posted 12-05-2012 10:50 PM

Randy,
To tell you the truth, I never really concerned myself with flatness, since my use is with rough cut lumber for basic resawing. I’ve laid a straight edge across the table and all seems flat, though.

I did/do make sure to set the fence at 90 and table at 90 to the blade. I use a square to check. Once set, everything seems to hold well without any further need to adjust. I personally, do not use the re-saw bar. I find using the straight fence to give me the best cut. FWIW, when resawing, I did get a bit of wander with the 5/8in 6TPI blade, but no wander from the 3/4in 3TPI blade.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#78 posted 12-05-2012 11:12 PM

LeChuck,
Yes, I interwebbed that at Lee Valley. I’m just looking for other options/opinions.

HM,
There is an issue with my table (post #70 above) that I need to investigate and I also need to setup my in/out feed tables on my jointer. IMHO, a precision straightedge is just a shop essential.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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LeChuck

418 posts in 1752 days


#79 posted 12-05-2012 11:14 PM

Regarding the issue with the table flatness, did you check the bar at the front as I mentioned a couple times or are you just ignoring that? :)

-- David - Tucson, AZ

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DIYaholic

13773 posts in 1364 days


#80 posted 12-05-2012 11:28 PM

LeChuck,
I’m not ignoring anything. I haven’t had time to check that out yet. All advice and input is greatly appreciated! :)

The fact is I need a straightedge for several things, so I’m looking into them.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#81 posted 12-06-2012 01:16 AM

I use the aluminum yardsticks from HD for my straight edges. I have the 3ft, 4ft, and 5ft sizes. I have found they work well enough for everything I have thrown at them. I used the 5ft’r to check/adjust my in/out feeds on my jointer beds and it worked well. No need to over-spend on these.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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NormG

4259 posts in 1693 days


#82 posted 12-06-2012 01:32 AM

Go for the saw, use it for a while, understand the capacities & your developing capabilities, what you are trying to do with it and what you learn you might want to do with it.

I use Timber Wolf 3/16” (10 & 4) TPI 025 for general and then 1/2” for resaw Great blades, follow the guidelines for tightening, just ordered new from PS WOOD

-- Norman

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