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View steve6678's profile

Tips for removing dried glue

by steve6678
posted 11-11-2012 01:42 AM


28 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5304 posts in 1330 days


#1 posted 11-11-2012 01:52 AM

After a dry fit and everything’s a go, I stain and or finish my project
with Danish oil, and or sanding sealer, what ever the case may be.

Sometimes I tape off the area, like a dado or rabbet, and then seal it
and apply glue after a dry fit.

Others will have ideas that work well for them as well.

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 813 days


#2 posted 11-11-2012 01:54 AM

you finish before you assemble?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7827 posts in 2401 days


#3 posted 11-11-2012 01:54 AM

Prefinish parts with shellac, except where the glue needs to
go. The glue won’t stick to the shellac and it certainly
won’t get in the pores where you don’t want it.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View derosa's profile

derosa

1557 posts in 1589 days


#4 posted 11-11-2012 02:05 AM

Especially on objects that have lots of corners and crevices it is easier to do a dry fit to check assembly and then apply finish to all the objects disassembled. Just tape off the tennons and toss some rags in the mortises. Or tape off the exposed surfaces by the joint and once you’ve assembled you can use a damp cloth to remove excess glue, then remove the tape and finish.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5304 posts in 1330 days


#5 posted 11-11-2012 02:12 AM

@ Steve6678: Yes

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 813 days


#6 posted 11-11-2012 02:12 AM

Okay.
I use Danish oil, then Gel top coat.
I’ll oil the parts (-) any glue-up areas.
Nice

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5304 posts in 1330 days


#7 posted 11-11-2012 02:26 AM

Yeah buddy!

May be save the last coats, if possible, after the glue dries
and your done cleaning up any squeeze out.

You’ll get the hang of it, and hopefully better results.

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 813 days


#8 posted 11-11-2012 04:47 AM

I see most woodworkers glue-up BEFORE any finish.
How do they deal with the final clean up of glue, and a sanding regiment?

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5304 posts in 1330 days


#9 posted 11-11-2012 04:57 AM

I’m not sure Steve.

I prefer to seal it first as I dislike seeing glue marks.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112938 posts in 2331 days


#10 posted 11-11-2012 05:24 AM

You can prefinish or apply tape where squeeze out is possible or use a card scraper to remove it when it’s dry,better yet remove it just as it firms up but is not dry. push comes to shove you can try to steam or use hot water on areas that not close to joinery.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

1011 posts in 2239 days


#11 posted 11-11-2012 05:30 AM

Nowadays with the strength of modern glues, I try to use a few tricks to keep the amount of glue used to a minimum and keep the squeeze out down, such as leaving a bit of space at the bottom of mortises as a glue “well”, only coat the lower half of the tenon, bevel the shoulders to accommodate room for squeeze-out, etc. I had a near catastrophe with hardened squeeze out on wax paper. What a mess, and time and effort. In my opinion, less glue is more. If you can go off for 30 minutes or so then come back, the glue will be hard enough to scrap off but not so hard as to make removal near impossible without a chisel and hammer, or soft enough to make a mess. If you choose to wipe it off just after clamping, use a tooth brush or nylon brush to scrub out the pores, rather than just taking swipes with a wet rag. It’s the glue pushed down into the pores when wipeing that will cause a problem with the finish.

-- God is great, wood is good. Let us thank Him for wood......and old hand tools.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3872 posts in 2121 days


#12 posted 11-11-2012 05:48 AM

Finish B4 gluing, that’s what I do … most of the time and sometimes tape off the no glued areas!

I tried the set sponge but it made more of a mess and if the wipe off area is bare wood the glue gets into the grain and spoils the final finish!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1458 posts in 1937 days


#13 posted 11-11-2012 07:02 AM

Lots of masking with painters tape for me, especially on inside corners. I peel it off before the glue fully cures.

-- Allen, Colorado

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1330 days


#14 posted 11-11-2012 12:15 PM

I wait for it to gel up a bit and then remove it with a small steel ruler. Especially useful in corners.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11551 posts in 1443 days


#15 posted 11-11-2012 04:52 PM

I do it just like NiteWalker. Those steel rules make great scrapers and will get into tight corners well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

969 posts in 1897 days


#16 posted 11-11-2012 05:14 PM

A lot of useful advice above. My two penneys: a nice wide drinking straw will fold itself into a corner and pick up liquid glue. Use scissors to cut off glued part and use the other part some more. Combined with tape, it controls a lot of squeeze out.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1907 posts in 942 days


#17 posted 11-11-2012 05:28 PM

Hey Steve – thanks for opening this thread. I have been loosing the battle of the glue for a while now and MOST of my finish work is about trying to remove glue.

Awesome thread!

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View EPJartisan's profile

EPJartisan

1093 posts in 1879 days


#18 posted 11-11-2012 06:07 PM

Sounds to me Steve, that you are at one of those moments in woodworking where you have to choose your battle.
For most tasks there are different ways to approach it.. and it all depends on how much work you want to do, and how perfect you want to have your result. I recommend dedicating to one method and getting really good and then moving on to the next. Like everyone put above your choices are: a) Pre-finish before glue b) tape off c) scraper card / chisel

I find it my choice changes depending on: the type of wood (open grained = tape, exotic = scrape, soft wood = pre-finish… unless it is an oil finish) also if the area is seen… if not, then who cares… let it dry else and scrape and then focus on the areas you NEED to have perfect.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 813 days


#19 posted 11-11-2012 09:13 PM

good advice all.

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1486 posts in 1010 days


#20 posted 11-11-2012 09:49 PM

Davidroberts offered good suggestions for minimizing/eliminating squeeze out before finishing. I do this myself.

-- Art

View ChrisJ's profile

ChrisJ

55 posts in 1573 days


#21 posted 11-11-2012 09:54 PM

Like most things in my life, the more I learn about something the more I realize I don’t know…I’ve been gluing and letting it dry for an hour or so before scraping with a dedicated chisel and then finishing. Now I’ve got some new things to try!

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1040 days


#22 posted 11-11-2012 10:22 PM

Frog tape is good for it, if you can get it where you need it. Otherwise I try to just wait till it dries and use some 80G in my ROS which I like to do to corners anyway to even them out perfectly.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1040 days


#23 posted 11-11-2012 10:24 PM

I would not try and wipe it off wet. Glue doesn’t penetrate unless you press it in. It sits on top so let it dry completely and then it will come right off with a little sanding. If you wipe it when it’s wet you’ll work it into the pours. And there is always squeeze out, if there isn’t you didn’t use enough glue.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 813 days


#24 posted 11-11-2012 10:27 PM

That’s what I’ve been doing for years…scraping excess and sanding after dried…just thought there may have been some secret I didn’t know about, and I got some very good tips so far!
I may try pre-finishing parts with the watco, then doing assembly, being vigilant on just enough amount of glue and prep wisely…
Thanks

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1040 days


#25 posted 11-11-2012 10:34 PM

You gotta weigh the amount of time and effort it would take to protect the wood from squeeze out against just cleaning it up afterward. If you glue and clamp like me, it’s a freaking mess, so I got good at the clean up.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View A10GAC's profile

A10GAC

190 posts in 1832 days


#26 posted 11-11-2012 10:42 PM

I mask inside corners and skim the nearly dry glue off outside corners and flat joints with a chisel or plane blade (taken out of the plane). I used to wipe it off with a wet cloth, but, as others pointed out it usually just dilutes the glue and leaves you with a splotch that shows up when you stain/finish.

-- Men have become the tools of their tools. - Henry David Thoreau

View steve6678's profile

steve6678

438 posts in 813 days


#27 posted 11-11-2012 10:47 PM

Yup, definitly let it dry.
It does mash it into the pores and it always shows up afterwards.

-- Steve - Dust sucks!

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1907 posts in 942 days


#28 posted 11-12-2012 01:30 AM

My last project suffered from the wet wipe syndrome. The glue just managed to contaminate more wood. I’ll try the tape trick next time.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

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