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and so... i begin...

by Holbs
posted 11-06-2012 01:01 AM


21 replies so far

View 47phord's profile

47phord

175 posts in 1898 days


#1 posted 11-06-2012 01:04 AM

Welcome aboard! I’m kind of a newbie myself and have found this site to be invaluable. I can pretty much guaranty that no matter what question you have, there is someone here that can answer it. Good luck and have fun!

View Sailor's profile

Sailor

543 posts in 2926 days


#2 posted 11-06-2012 01:07 AM

Welcome Eric! Glad you decided to join up and join in on the wood talk and such!

-- Dothan, Alabama Check out my woodworking blog! http://woodworkingtrip.blogspot.com/ Also my Youtube Channel's Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/SailingAndSuch

View Don W's profile

Don W

18313 posts in 2228 days


#3 posted 11-06-2012 01:11 AM

Welcome. Glad you decided to join the fun.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19306 posts in 2336 days


#4 posted 11-06-2012 01:27 AM

That is step #1, admitting you have a problem (“got the wood-bug”)!!! Welcome aboard the “Crazy Train”!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

3535 posts in 1895 days


#5 posted 11-06-2012 01:30 AM

For great insulation, consider using Nu-wool. I used it in a remodeling job I did and it far exceeded my high expectations. I was going to spray foam, but quickly dismissed that at $2000 just for the material. The paper backed fiberglass would cost almost $1000 just for the material. I don’t like fiberglass wool because rodents like to nest in it, build tunnels in it, and it is not air tight and insect proof. Neither does it dampen sound very much. A local Nu-Wool installer quoted me $600 to do the job, so he got it! I am SO glad. The stuff is everything it was advertised to be. It is basically cellulose fiber (shredded paper) mixed with a moist adhesive and a Borax derivative, so when it is sprayed between the studs and scraped level with them, it looks and feels like styrofoam when it is dry. Will NOT settle. It is indeed airtight, needs no other moisture barrier, and the Borax derivative makes it inhabitable to insects and vermin. I could not believe the total sound deadening of it. We can take a shower and flush the toilet and it won’t be heard outside the bathroom! I do not remember the actual R value in a 2×4 wall, but it was far higher than even the foam. Highly recommend it and I have no connection to the product.
DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com Instructions are that which will be read as a last resort.

View Monte Pittman's profile (online now)

Monte Pittman

24595 posts in 1999 days


#6 posted 11-06-2012 01:55 AM

We have ALL made those kind of mistakes. You learn to compensate and go on.

Welcome to LJ’s

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7786 posts in 2238 days


#7 posted 11-06-2012 01:56 AM

Welcome to LumberJocks Eric!

Hold on for one heck of a fun ride my friend.
Experienced and friendly folks will help you along
your journey.

View benjie22's profile

benjie22

3 posts in 1689 days


#8 posted 11-06-2012 01:56 AM

Hello! Welcome aboard. I’m a newbie here and I admit that I really like this site. Every page I click there so much to learn here. I’m amazed with all the projects that I have seen. As a newbie I have no project yet to post, because I’m still a learner. Yet, hoping that one day I can post my wood craft here. But as of now, I need to be learned more.

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

7124 posts in 1736 days


#9 posted 11-06-2012 01:57 AM

Welcome! This is a great site for answers, inspiration and a few good laughs.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Ted's profile

Ted

2808 posts in 1872 days


#10 posted 11-06-2012 02:31 AM

Glad you decided to join us. LJ is way better than those other woodworking sites – a very informative bunch here, knows how to keep it on the level for the purists, yet light hearted enough for wood hacks like myself. Not to mention the projects is about the most inspiring collection of, well, projects.. that I have ever found.

-- The first cordless tool was a stick. The first power tool was a rock.

View Skylark53's profile

Skylark53

2648 posts in 2721 days


#11 posted 11-06-2012 02:55 AM

Eric, I dropped in on LJs and did no research; I just came up with an ID and password and WOW, I was a LJ! This is really the best of the best woodworking sites. With the project you come on board with, you show enthusiasm and energy. No doubt, there are folks here who can advise you step by step and they actually WILL! Best wishes to you on this project and future woodworking projects. Visiting LJs will be encouraging and enlightening for you.

-- Rick, Tennessee, John 3:16

View GrandpaLen's profile

GrandpaLen

1646 posts in 1933 days


#12 posted 11-06-2012 02:33 PM

Eric,

Welcome to LumberJocks , a world of advise, opinions, and experiences, all shared without judgement.

Work Safely and have Fun. – Grandpa Len.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Deaner's profile

Deaner

42 posts in 1747 days


#13 posted 11-06-2012 09:53 PM

LMAO DYIaholic!
Step #1: admitting you have a problem. :D:D:D

-- Once harm is done, even a fool understands it.

View Deaner's profile

Deaner

42 posts in 1747 days


#14 posted 11-06-2012 09:54 PM

...oh, and welcome aboard Eric. I’m pretty new around here myself. Lot’s of cool folks.

-- Once harm is done, even a fool understands it.

View AnthonyReed's profile

AnthonyReed

9143 posts in 2101 days


#15 posted 11-06-2012 09:58 PM

Welcome Eric

-- ~Tony

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1623 posts in 1690 days


#16 posted 11-07-2012 03:41 AM

Dan Krager:
I looked into the Nu-Wool. It does sound the best route for me. Except, it’s not DIY and all the installers are east coast/central.

Does anyone have opinionated issues about using BOTH R-19 paper-faced batts laying on the garage ceiling drywall AND pumping in additional blow-in insulation? I’d like to use my R-19 batts for something. Considered tearing down the drywall on the walls and installing the R-19 there, but i believe i get a much better result (R-wise and such) with blown in since studs are 2×4”.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View Don W's profile

Don W

18313 posts in 2228 days


#17 posted 11-07-2012 12:48 PM

If I understand correctly…....the paper is a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier has to go toward the heated room, and it can NOT have insulation on both sides of it. If your going to do this, remove the paper.

Stuffing 6” insulation into a 4” wall doesn’t give R-19.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1623 posts in 1690 days


#18 posted 11-08-2012 03:47 AM

i believe i have decided on drastic measures :)

i will remove the 2 walls of drywall (so much for my 2 tone green/yellow paint job) to expose bare studs. from there, add in every possible electrical, phone, data outlet box (people usually forget phone/data) i can think of. buy a plexiglass 4×8 sheet, press up against studs, fill with blown-in insulation (researching “dense” packing tonite) so i can actually see how the insulation gets packed in. once some minutes pass to ensure the insulation is stable on its own, remove the plexigass, install drywall (or OSB as i’m undecided), and repeat.

for the garage ceiling, re-use my kraft faced R-19 fiberglass batts in between the trusses and staple, install drywall (or OSB…again, undecided), then blow in insulation ontop of the batts. I figure R-30 should be a good figure for a garage workshop environment.

of course… i will seal as much as i can as i go along with expanded fire-proof foam canisters for the walls.

I’m glad i found my reznor udap60 for $70 as i see lots of $$$ going into a garage workspace, just to make it warm/cool.

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View JohnAlmeyda's profile

JohnAlmeyda

10 posts in 2253 days


#19 posted 11-08-2012 04:59 AM

Hey Holbs, Nice to meet you. I’m also a noob just starting to post here after visiting this page for over a year. I’m down in Las Vegas, we might be the only two woodworkers in Nevada :) The woodworking community is not big here in Las Vegas, its practically non existent

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1623 posts in 1690 days


#20 posted 11-09-2012 05:08 AM

John…that is because las vegas has no trees :)

-- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

6043 posts in 3029 days


#21 posted 11-09-2012 06:09 AM

Since the dry wall is down, consider adding some 220VAC if you don’t already have it!

You have the bug and you may want some higher HP tools and/or dust collection system.

I just had a branch installed in my 60 year old garage and it would have been a lot easier and cheaper without the dry wall in place.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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