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All Replies on How do I repair a dimple in my new SawStop table top?

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View Grampa_Doodie's profile

How do I repair a dimple in my new SawStop table top?

by Grampa_Doodie
posted 666 days ago


21 replies so far

View Cellulosespinner's profile

Cellulosespinner

62 posts in 666 days


#1 posted 666 days ago

My 2 cents would be to use a fine file to remove the ridge and the wet sand mineral oil and 600 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper.

-- Once in a man's life you should have a good dog, a good horse and a good woman. The trick is to get them all together at the same time

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1482 days


#2 posted 666 days ago

I would use a handle-less file, gramps, and lay it flat on the table and stroke gently the ridge. It will go away. I’ve done this.

And be a little kinder to yourself. Tools are made to do work, and they will end up showing signs being used. “Character marks.” A table saw sitting in a store has potential to do work, but no proof and no character. You are giving this inanimate object a realized purpose and the personality to go along with it.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View doordude's profile

doordude

1085 posts in 1614 days


#3 posted 666 days ago

like a new car, with its first scratch. it’s now broke in!
just wet sand with 320,400 600 untill the burs are gone. no big deal

View doubleDD's profile

doubleDD

2397 posts in 674 days


#4 posted 666 days ago

try a very st.iff putty knife with a quick swoop, that may get rid of it.

-- --Dave, Downers Grove, Il. When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2301 posts in 1514 days


#5 posted 666 days ago

sand it with progressively finer grits.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View patron's profile

patron

13017 posts in 1972 days


#6 posted 666 days ago

with all the dings and dents
that happen

i just use my da erbital sander
and some mineral spirits

then wax again

good to go

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Grampa_Doodie's profile

Grampa_Doodie

148 posts in 929 days


#7 posted 666 days ago

Thank you all for the wonderful replies. I knew I could count on this wonderful community of woodworkers to come up with great ideas.

Very much appreciated, Gramps.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.

View Grampa_Doodie's profile

Grampa_Doodie

148 posts in 929 days


#8 posted 666 days ago

On another note. I’m like a kid on Christmas day today. My “aircraft carrier” Grizzly 8” jointer is being delivered this afternoon. :)

Again, thanks everyone!!

Gramps.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6925 posts in 1545 days


#9 posted 666 days ago

That is nothing that a six-pak of beer couldn’t fix.

Wanna feel bad… I had the chain of my 1-ton hoist (normally pulled to the side and up on a hook) get loose and fall across my TS and put maybe three dozen little dings on the cast iron top, all close together. I had owned my new TS less than 2-months at the time.

The beer fixed the panic, and by golly you wouldn’t believe it! The TS still worked and cuts a straight line! (sarcasm)

Personally, I think you would stand a greater chance of messing up the top by trying a DIY repair than ignoring it and getting on with making dust. (serious)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1790 days


#10 posted 666 days ago

My dad once bought a new truck and he immediately put a scratch on it, on purpose. When I asked why, he said, ” Now I don’t have to worry about scratching it.” I thought that was absurd at the time. Now, I think it’s pretty smart.

I would attempt to use a ball-peen hammer to work down the raised metal, then sand smooth with some WD-40 and small piece of fine grit sand paper, if necessary. Seriously, that last step is probably unnecessary and will make the “repair” more obvious.

But that’s just the first of many dings and scratches to come! Kinda sad.

BTW, I’d recommend anything from Stone Brewery to help you through these traumatic times.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6925 posts in 1545 days


#11 posted 666 days ago

One mistake that I DID MAKE, was using when “Rust Free” rust remover. A good product if used correctly

NEVER: Spray directly on any iron surface to be cleaned. I did and now have a small area where I have permanent “splash” marks from the spray.

ALWAYS DO: Always spray on a cloth not facing your cast iron. And THEN use the dampened cloth in a back and forth single direction across the entire surface (straight line).

BTW, this product works best on old iron surfaces that have already discolored. It works on new surfaces as well but does change the color of the surface to more of a gray.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

886 posts in 741 days


#12 posted 666 days ago

Trust me, I understand… If you’re using stuff, stuff happens!

A few years ago, my Veritas large shoulder plane landed nose first on concrete! Careful filing, a little wet sanding with a block and WD-40, and it’s perfectly usable. Cellulose and Lee describe methods nicely.

Consider it “patina”... ;^)

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1790 days


#13 posted 666 days ago

Yah, I dropped my LN rabbet-block plane on the cement floor the other day. Ugh. I flattened it back out, but I wasn’t happy with myself. The thing about those planes is that they are more vulnerable to breakage by design, so I got a little lucky.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1790 days


#14 posted 666 days ago

Mike said, “NEVER: Spray directly on any iron surface to be cleaned. I did and now have a small area where I have permanent “splash” marks from the spray.”
—————————-

Yeah, this is why I said that its probably better to skip the sanding step if not completely necessary. You end up making a bigger scratchy spot rather than a small ding. It just makes matters worse. And you have to be careful what chemical you use, if any, because of discoloring the top.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View Grampa_Doodie's profile

Grampa_Doodie

148 posts in 929 days


#15 posted 666 days ago

I really enjoyed reading all of your answers, especially HorizontalMike’s “six-pack of beer” suggestion. :)

I’d really like to leave the ding alone, but the raised part of the ding has me worried. I had a similar issue on my old table saw, and every time I ran a nice sheet of oak, cherry, or birch plywood across my saw’s table top, it would leave a nasty line cut into the surface of the sheet goods.

So I’m going to put together all of your replies and try the one that I think will work best in my situation.

As always, you’re a great group of people with wonderful tips. Thanks again for all your help!!

Gramps.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

886 posts in 741 days


#16 posted 665 days ago

I know those tears, Sniper… I know them well…

Did it fall in slow motion?

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View hairy's profile

hairy

2007 posts in 2163 days


#17 posted 665 days ago

I would try JB weld. It won’t hurt it.

I’ve used it on engine blocks.

-- the last of Barret's Privateers...

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6925 posts in 1545 days


#18 posted 665 days ago

If I HAD to repair, flattening with either a ball peen hammer, as Jay recommended, OR take a larger (larger than the ping) flat punch and hammer to flatten the high areas. All you want is to soften the high “sharp area” that you talk about.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Grampa_Doodie's profile

Grampa_Doodie

148 posts in 929 days


#19 posted 665 days ago

Sounds like the best tip yet HorizontalMike. I think I’ll gently tap it with a flat-tipped punch.

May all your stops be vertical, Gramps.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3094 posts in 1307 days


#20 posted 665 days ago

Filling the hole with JB Weld would still leave the hump that rubs your nice woods. Gently tapping on the high place with something larger than the hump would tend to flatten it and that is what you are looking for. You could dress it off but then you will be left with a hole in the table that will collect dust, woodchips etc. The metal flowed upward when the impact occurred. You need to push as much of it back into the hole as possible. That is where it belongs. A punch with a large end as Mike suggests or the ball peen hammer. Be gentle. This is cast iron. If you decide to sand it with the finer grits then you need to be careful to not have a low place that is 2 or 3 inches across. As a friend told me about 50 years ago: There are lots of ways to make bad body and fender work worse and I think you have used most of those here. Good luck!!

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

1692 posts in 1740 days


#21 posted 665 days ago

Best bet is to lay a straight edge across it from several directions (just like finding the highs and lows on a board) and carefully grinding off the high “spot”, which is really a ring like the rim of a meteor crater. Hammers and punches may only distribute the hills and valleys to somewhere else. Your dent is maybe a few thousandths of an inch thick. Ignore it after leveling.

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