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View gfadvm's profile

What is Danish Oil

by gfadvm
posted 643 days ago


44 replies so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13212 posts in 934 days


#1 posted 643 days ago

I think it’s a type of tung oil

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

View patron's profile

patron

12955 posts in 1937 days


#2 posted 643 days ago

from wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil

Danish oil is a wood finishing oil, made of either Tung oil or Polymerized Linseed oil.

Danish oil is a hard drying oil which provides a tough, water-resistant finish. It can be used as a finish, or as a primer or sealer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish.

When used, Danish oil provides a satin finish and provides coverage of approx 12.5 sq. m/l (600 sq. ft./gallon) and is usually applied over a course of three coats by brush or cloth, with any excess being wiped off shortly after application. The finish is left to dry for around 6-24 hours between coats, depending on the mixture being used and the wood being treated.

Rags used for Danish oil may spontaneously combust and start fires, so it is best to dry rags flat before disposing of them.

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Woodwrecker's profile

Woodwrecker

3559 posts in 2172 days


#3 posted 643 days ago

I found the same definition as David. (above)

I get pretty much the same results using boiled Lindseed Oil and then a cut down polyurethane coat, at a lot less expense.

i don’t make those big horse doctor bucks !
(only kidding Andy) lol

-- Having fun...Eric

View Arminius's profile

Arminius

304 posts in 2400 days


#4 posted 643 days ago

It is basically an oil/varnish blend, with some properties of both, usually wiped on. Key concept is that it both penetrates and builds up a finish – though the ‘build’ is minimal, it can barely be felt. The oil can be a linseed or tung oil base. The drying oil component of the varnish (resin + solvent +drying oil) is usually something with the same base- I am not aware of a Danish oil blend that has polyurethane, though it is probably possible.

Woodwrecker is getting similar results because it is not that different in effect.

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1755 days


#5 posted 643 days ago

There’s a lot of mystery to Danish oil, but it is chiefly tung or linseed oil that has been polymerized for faster drying. Many Danish oils also include varnish resins to allow it to build up a thin film coat, but that varies with the product and, IME, doesn’t really happen in practice. It’s perhaps just a part of the polymerization..

Many people will opt for their own mixtures of oil/varnish blends, combining BLO or tung oil with something like a polyurethane varnish and a solvent like mineral spirits or turpentine. The ratios of the mixes vary from kettle to kettle, but Krenov was known for liking an even 1:1:1 mix of the three parts. Regardless, doing it yourself will build a better film finish than any of the danish oil products.

That said, I like Danish oil. It’s fast drying and does the job of any typical oil…I just don’t look for it to build up any type of finish.

BTW, some Danish oil brands like the Watco advertise the “varnish” nature of the product. Others like Tried and True make no mention of hardening outside the polymerization of the oil itself. But most feel the spirit of the Danish oil is as described above…an oil/varnish blend.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

6769 posts in 1900 days


#6 posted 643 days ago

it starts out from the mogambo nut….....LOL…ok andy i wont go any further, you didnt comment on my last funny post so i guess , well never mind…if anyone wants to know, well forget it, a bored man who thought he was funny…

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Kelby's profile

Kelby

133 posts in 1007 days


#7 posted 643 days ago

My favorite finish. Easy to mix your own, easy to apply (although it takes some time), and delivers phenominal results if you are patient.

Here’s my system (after sanding your project to 220 grit):

1. Mix equal parts mineral spirits, oil (either linseed or tung), and varnish (you can use poly, but I don’t like it quite as well).

2. Use a brush or paper towel to apply a coat over the wood, and let it sit for 15-30 minutes (varies by temp, humidity, and products you are using in your mix). Don’t let it get tacky.

3. Using paper towels or rags, wipe off all excess. Be VERY CAREFUL to let your rags/paper towels dry in a safe way—they can spontaneously combust if you put oily rags in a pile.

4. Let dry 24 hours.

5. Repeat steps 2-4. However, this time, after applying the Danish oil and before wiping the excess, wet-sand your project with 320 grit wet or dry. Then wipe the excess oil off.

6. Repeat step 5, but this time go up to 400 grit.

7. Repeat with 600 grit.

8. Go up as high as you like—I personally prefer to go to 2000 grit.

This process takes at least a week, because you need to let it dry 24 hours between each coat.

When finished, I prefer to apply a coat of wax.

The finish brings out the color of the wood and gives a very light lustre to it, but does not look like it has a coating it the way lacquer or varnish/urethane do. Sanded very fine with a coat of wax, the project feels extremely soft and smooth and compels people to touch it.

-- Kelby

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15648 posts in 2815 days


#8 posted 643 days ago

You guys are all wrong. Making Danish oil involves a bunch of Scandinavians and a very large garlic press.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Roger Clark aka Rex's profile

Roger Clark aka Rex

6940 posts in 2031 days


#9 posted 643 days ago

That’s right Charlie, and they use that squeezed oil to add to puff pastry breakfast cakes, hence Danish Pastries.

-- Roger-R, Republic of Texas. "Always look on the Bright Side of Life" - An eyeball to eyeball confrontation with a blind person is as complete waste of Time.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10533 posts in 1286 days


#10 posted 643 days ago

Thanks for all the quick responses. That’s why I love this site. I was curious as to whether you could build up some thickness since I thought it contained poly or “varnish”. I guess my next post will be : what is “varnish”??? Roger and Charlie are currently in a parallel universe so don’t mind them! And my friend Grizz is always kinda in a world of his own :-)

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Roger Clark aka Rex's profile

Roger Clark aka Rex

6940 posts in 2031 days


#11 posted 643 days ago

gfadvm, my next question will be: Isn’t it past your bedtime?

-- Roger-R, Republic of Texas. "Always look on the Bright Side of Life" - An eyeball to eyeball confrontation with a blind person is as complete waste of Time.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10533 posts in 1286 days


#12 posted 643 days ago

G’night all.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Roger Clark aka Rex's profile

Roger Clark aka Rex

6940 posts in 2031 days


#13 posted 643 days ago

Goodnight Andy, Charlie and I will carry on cruisin’

-- Roger-R, Republic of Texas. "Always look on the Bright Side of Life" - An eyeball to eyeball confrontation with a blind person is as complete waste of Time.

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1757 days


#14 posted 643 days ago

I too think it is made up of a bunch of Danes. :)

I’ve never gone past three coats. I’d like to try the methods above. Thanks for sharing.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View patron's profile

patron

12955 posts in 1937 days


#15 posted 643 days ago

have you tried the stuff
on your arms

after you deal with the horses

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2824 posts in 845 days


#16 posted 643 days ago

I use danish oil on every project that I do not stain. It really helps “pop” interesting grain. I use it as a substitute for stain though; not as a finish. It offers very little protection because you cannot build it. The wood can only take so much, then you have a gummy mess. I get the best results using Flexner’s recommended application.

1 – FLOOD the surface. I just pour it right on out of the jar. I let it set for 15 to 20 minutes, touching up any dry spots, then wipe it down. I check on it every few hours to see if anything is weeping out of the pours in the wood, and wipe it clean, then let it sit overnight

2 – The next day I sand down the piece with 400 grit, remove the dust, and apply another coat with a foam brush or rag. I let that sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe it down. Same process as above for repeated checks and then I let it dry a good 5 to 7 days.

3 – Apply topcoat. I generally use a wiping varnish of some sort.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1755 days


#17 posted 643 days ago

That’s the way I do it, Joe.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View jap's profile

jap

1224 posts in 650 days


#18 posted 643 days ago

This danish old is actually linseed that is boiled to help it dry not wiht dangerous japn driers http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45105&cat=1,190,42942
i like it and use it alot

-- Joel

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3775 posts in 976 days


#19 posted 642 days ago

I always assumed Danish Oil was a mix of oil and varnish but seeing the question I looked up the MSDS’s and it varies by brand. Watco is (50-60%) naphtha and (20-30%) linseed oil. Reading through several different brands, most were primarily naphtha, some listed tung or linseed oil and some didn’t; none contained alkyds (varnish). I learned something.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1755 days


#20 posted 642 days ago

wormil…That’s why I called it a “mystery.” LOL!

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View ETwoodworks's profile

ETwoodworks

92 posts in 1289 days


#21 posted 642 days ago

The method above is alot of work but its beautifull on walnut.

-- Building quality in a throw away world.

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3146 posts in 2419 days


#22 posted 642 days ago

Danish Oil was the finish of choice back in the day before Polyurethane and Varnish. Use mainly on hardwood floors and furniture. Watco one of the oldest manufacturer of Danish oil has a variety of tinted Danish oil on the market. One of my favorite is the light walnut color oil which add a nice golden-brown hue on maple and cherry. Very easy to use but beware of oily rags discard once thoroughly air dry, very combustible. Give these type of color Danish oil a try you’ll really like how the grain pops…BC

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10533 posts in 1286 days


#23 posted 641 days ago

Wormil- Great info. I always assumed it contained some type of poly. Just naptha and BLO. Who knew?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 883 days


#24 posted 641 days ago

I think I have every color of Danish oil on the market. Love the stuff on hardwoods and cedar.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Alongiron's profile

Alongiron

401 posts in 1289 days


#25 posted 641 days ago

Danish oil with a couple coats of Shellac is an old fashion finish that has been around for a many many years. It gives you that ” I made that and finished that project” project that you can be proud that will be passed down to many generations…

-- Measure twice and cut once.....

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1380 posts in 2724 days


#26 posted 641 days ago

Note: Watco Danish Oil is a blend of about 75% Mineral Spirits with Raw Linseed Oil (not BLO), Modified Soya Bean Oil, Resins (esp. Alyd, no “Poly”) and colorants (esp. Gilsonite). Other ingredients may be present.

Generally, so-called Danish Oils usually contain a variety of drying oils (linseed, soya, tung oil, etc.), various resins or varnishes, colorants, and solvents. There are no standards for the composition of “Danish Oil.” One manufacture markets a so-called “Danish Oil” which only contains pure oil (Heat-treated Linseed Oil).

Usually the generic term “Danish Oil” is meaningless because there is no consistency between brands.

Blessings.

-- 温故知新

View Bagtown's profile

Bagtown

1699 posts in 2326 days


#27 posted 641 days ago

I have a jar of homemade finish mixed 1:1:1 BLO, Beeswax, and Turpentine.
Melted all together.
Sitting on the shelf sometimes the wax starts to firm up so before use I’’ set it in the sun.
Nice sheen finish, not to shiny or flashy.

-- Mike - In Fort McMurray Alberta

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10533 posts in 1286 days


#28 posted 640 days ago

Well, I’m perfectly clear on Danish Oil composition now! LOL Sounds like there are a lot of variations out there.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3775 posts in 976 days


#29 posted 640 days ago

Apparently. MSDS’s differ just on Watco, some say mineral spirits, some say naphtha. Maybe they are using different names for the same thing or maybe the formulation varies by country. Anyway you slice it, it’s mostly thinner.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3581 posts in 1964 days


#30 posted 640 days ago

CharlieM1958 I think you are correct but they actually use a grape press ‘cause a garlic press it just to small!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View MartiTx's profile

MartiTx

7 posts in 925 days


#31 posted 637 days ago

What brand names are your favorites?

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 883 days


#32 posted 637 days ago

Watco seems to have a solid presence in the market for these oils. If you stick with one brand, you know what to expect.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2824 posts in 845 days


#33 posted 637 days ago

Say what you will about it’s ingredients, but I get fantastic results with the Watco stuff. I use the natural a lot. The medium walnut is beautiful as well.

I don’t use Danish oil as a finish on furniture though. I do finish boxes and other small items with it. I use it to pop the grain on furniture and apply some sort of varnish after. I don’t think any brand or home brew offers enough protection on furniture.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2699 posts in 1173 days


#34 posted 637 days ago

MartiTx; I just bought a can of deft danish oil. It was cheaper than watco, but the main reason is for my uses; I’ll be using it for some small boxes and it’s what doug stowe uses. I like the way his boxes come out.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4744 posts in 1173 days


#35 posted 637 days ago

+1 for Watco

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1757 days


#36 posted 637 days ago

I was hoping hObOmOnk would chime in. He seems to know a lot about this stuff.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Fuzzy's profile

Fuzzy

289 posts in 2584 days


#37 posted 637 days ago

Danish Oil is just about anything a manufacturer wants it to be … really … there is no formal definition for it.

-- - dabbling in sarcasm is foolish … if you’re not proficient at it, you end up looking stupid … ... ...

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3581 posts in 1964 days


#38 posted 637 days ago

Watco oil finishes are the only ones I use and I trust them because they are part of RustOleum which has an outstanding product line and stands behind all of their products.

I am glad that Watco did not disappear when they were in financial trouble and RustOleum bought them as would I have hated to see that product line disappear!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3775 posts in 976 days


#39 posted 637 days ago

Today I was looking at an old project finished with Danish oil and it still looks great but has been put away and is very dusty but I’m not sure what to clean it with. The oil doesn’t leave a film finish and the dust has sort of gotten into the grain.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View MartiTx's profile

MartiTx

7 posts in 925 days


#40 posted 635 days ago

I want to try that sometime Kelby, it sounds like a solid finish.

Right now I am refinishing my kitchen cabinets. I began with a Danish oil made by Glidden and it was great. Ran out of it and bought Watco. I’m not quite as crazy about it, though it looks better than polyurethane, thin and applied with cloth. However, I’m concerned about the overall protection from water from the Watco. I wonder if it would be worth it to put on a coat of wax, or a thin topcoat of polyurethane?

Also, can anyone direct me to a moderator or administrator that I can PM about a posting problem I’m having?

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2824 posts in 845 days


#41 posted 635 days ago

As I mentioned before, Danish oil provides very little protection. Wax will not give you much more. On kitchen cabinets, you should definitely put more than a thin coat of poly on (or your finish of choice). General Finishes enduro is great for cabinets.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 883 days


#42 posted 635 days ago

Wormil, try blowing it off with your compressor.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 883 days


#43 posted 635 days ago

Top coat with Arm R Seal
http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1757 days


#44 posted 635 days ago

wormil – Try Mineral Spirits. Then re-coat with your D.O.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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