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View pendledad's profile

Help me choose a new TS

by pendledad
posted 552 days ago


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170 replies

170 replies so far

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jap

1221 posts in 559 days


#1 posted 552 days ago

r4512

-- Joel

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1663 days


#2 posted 552 days ago

The only problem I see is that regardless of voltage, you would be buying, at most, a 2 hp saw. If you are good with that, then great. I personally think its not enough, especially if I knew that 220v was in my future.

I’d get a used Ridgid hybrid type, or similar for now and then sell it once I move into the permanent shop. That way, you aren’t locking yourself into your “lifetime” saw right now. Because you’d get close to what you paid for it when reselling, it’s almost like free rent.

Your opinions might change in five years, so I’d keep that open.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6710 posts in 1419 days


#3 posted 552 days ago

So are you actually going to “change” the location of the garage and/or future project? My thoughts are if you are going to have a shop even close to that area, you could run the preliminary power line to that spot (under ground), put a temporary box/head on it, and run a heavy 220v extension cord for now. Just an idea…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#4 posted 552 days ago

Thanks for the replies. Let me clarify the future of the shop. My garage now is currently connected via a breezeway. We’re going to demo all of that … straight to the ground. We’ll pour a new foundation and build a garage with bonus room above it and connect it to the house via a insulated mudroom instead of a breezeway.

My shop will be a large bump-out off the back of this new structure (or possibly a free-standing shed style shop in the back of the property). Anyways, the electrical in the whole house will be rewired during this project … so I don’t want to pay an electrician now and then. I don’t have any space on my current panel so I would have to upgrade my panel to get room for another 220 line … and the quotes for just an upgrade to the panel and bring the service to 200amps have been in the $1,800-$2,500 range. That does not include running a new line or any rewiring of the house.

I don’t mind running with a lower hp motor. I have a 3/4 horse motor now, and it has handled the cuts I’ve needed without bogging down much.

I like the solid cast iron wings and fence of the Grizzly 0715P, it seems like it has a nice build quality to it. Those items seem better than the Ridgid … however it does come with a heftier price tag.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2329 posts in 1082 days


#5 posted 552 days ago

Whichever saw you decide on, go for one with cabinet mounted trunions.
IMHO, with a cabinet saw you won’t feel like you compromised later on down the line.

Choicewise, I’m in the same boat and will be upgrading early next year. With being on saw #3 now, I made an oath to myself that my next tablesaw will be my last.

I’m leaning towards the sawstop cabinet saw with 1.75HP motor. Pricey, I know, but it will definitely be the last saw I buy.

In your budget though, I’d take a long hard look at the steel city 35950. It’s listed as $999 in steel city’s current flyer.

About the power, 1.75HP is fine. Unless you’ll be using 2” stock in every project you build.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1663 days


#6 posted 552 days ago

I don’t understand why 220v is so important if you aren’t getting something with some hp to truly take advantage of it?

I can think of three reasons to switch a motor from 110v to 220v…

1.) You are running on a typical 15 to 20 amp 110v circuit and you keep tripping the breaker. But if you dedicated a 110v circuit to only the saw, it’s a moot point.

2.) You are experiencing some power loss due to longer wiring runs with the 110 wiring. This extra resistance also causes some excess heat.

3.) You can save some expense with 220v because the legs can be smaller gauge wire than a single 110v line.

Otherwise, there’s no practical advantage to switching a motor from 110v to 220v. 2 hp is still 2 hp.

I thought I always could get by with my direct-drive Craftsman TS…that is until I got the 3hp Unisaw. There are just some cuts that I can’t imagine doing with less. Its certainly a debate, but I don’t like the saw to work anymore than it has to…it’s kinda a safety concern with me…the longer and harder it runs, the more bad things can happen, IMO.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 791 days


#7 posted 552 days ago

Ridgid R4512 is a good saw. You won’t notice much difference in saw till you go over 1500 anyway so keep it cheap and accurate.

Make sure your present electric service to the garage is 20 AMP and don’t use extension cords.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View WoodWorkWarrior's profile

WoodWorkWarrior

46 posts in 578 days


#8 posted 552 days ago

I have the 0715P and love it. It cuts everything I need it to. My only complaint was the fence, but I’ve gotten around that, see my review here. Granted, if I moved up to a 3HP saw I probably wouldn’t want to go back, but frankly 2HP (at either 110 or 220) works for me. The saw is a good saw and a great value. I wired 220V for it…but it wasn’t difficult or super costly for me. I also wanted the possibility of other 220V equipment.

I looked around a lot of other saws, my budget was even less than yours, and ended up with the Grizzly because of the feature set and quality you get for the price. Just a thought.

-- Jason

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#9 posted 552 days ago

Thanks for the recommendations. The Steel City looks like I could have that at my door for $1,300 (plus tax) from HD. I like the cabinet mounted trunions. I’ll have to take a closer look at the reviews/specs tonight.

I plan on taking an unused 110 line in the basement and extending the feed into my garage where the TS will be placed. The rest of the garage outlets are daisy chained off the kitchen … such a mess. Gotta love a 1935 house with sketchy contracting work over the last 80 years.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1684 posts in 1133 days


#10 posted 552 days ago

r4512 for these reasons:

1. the moving parts are fully enclosed inside.

2. riving knife.

3. 90 day satisfaction guaranty .

4. 3 year guaranty.

5. lifetime service agreement eligible.

6. integrated mobile base.

7. dual voltage 1.5hp TEFC induction motor.

additionally, the fence rails can be slid to the right for increased rip capacity beyond the 30” capacity. the tape on the front rail would be useless, but that’s a small price to pay for 36”-40” of rip capavity.

it’s no unisaw, but if you can find a HD that honors the harbor freight “20% off any single item coupon”, it can be had for $400 plus tax. even if you want to upgrade in the future, the investment in the 4512 is reasonable enough that it could be used as an outfeed table for a 2 saw set up. a larger cabinet saw could be the rip saw and the 4512, placed perpendicular to the outfeed side of the cabinet saw, could be set up for crosscuts and dadoes like this.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5153 posts in 1881 days


#11 posted 552 days ago

The alignment issues that plagued the early G0715P, also plagued the R4512 and Cman 21833….AFAIK, those issues have all been resolved. With good setup and good blade selection, all can be good performers for you. The G0715P has a better fence, full enclosure, and solid cast wings. All have table mounted trunnions….alignment is more difficult, but once done, it should stay done.

Hybrids and hybrid style contractor saws with cabinet mounted trunnions are the Steel City models, the Craftsman 22116 (made by Steel City/Orion), the General International 50-200R, 50-220R, and 50-240GT, and the Porter Cable PCB270TS. Some have the yoke style cab mounted trunnions that span the corners of the cabinet, others are supported in the middle by the strut.

These are both cabinet mounted trunnions on a hybrid saw:
PCB270TS

Steel City 35925/Cman 22116

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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SirFatty

469 posts in 717 days


#12 posted 552 days ago

I’m very happy with my PCB270TS.

-- Visit my blog at dave.spalla.com

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 791 days


#13 posted 552 days ago

I have a Steel City 35990 and I’m extremely happy with it. I watched Craigslist for a used saw and there just wasn’t anything available in my price range and I ran out of time. DO NOT buy the Steel City saw at Home Depot unless they’ll honor Steel City’s price flyer. When I bought mine, HD wanted almost $400 more for the saw than what Steel City was selling it for. I picked mine up at a local distributor for the flyer price.

CABINET MOUNTED TRUNIONS: you want them. Alignment is hugely easier with them. I know first-hand after aligning an R4512 before taking it back due to OTHER alignment issues that were not resolvable and then getting the 35990 and aligning that in less than 1/10 the time. BIG difference.

View Don Niermann  's profile

Don Niermann

205 posts in 2477 days


#14 posted 552 days ago

R4512 Had it 6 mo and love it

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6710 posts in 1419 days


#15 posted 552 days ago

IMO, 5-years is a LONG time to postpone getting what you truly need. I lived nearly a lifetime “making do” with inferior/minimalistic tools. I now kick myself in the rear for having done so. All I can say is that you can get a heck of a lot of WW-ing done in 5-years with the right equipment. If fact you could actually save yourself enough dollars (making your own furniture, etc.) in five years to pay for not only the electrical service, but the table saw as well, IMO. You are going to do what you are going to do, but do remember that a real 3hp cabinet saw makes a lot of difference. You only cry once buying a real saw. My 2-cents

Because I skimped most of my life, I used this:

WHEN I finally got the message correctly, I got this:

I will NEVER be able to justify why I waited so long, and I mean that.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#16 posted 552 days ago

I really like the design of the g0690. It is the sweet spot too. Only $1400 for a lifetime saw. That was the saw my wife said…. ” Just get that and be done with it.” But that was before she knew about the electrical work…

If bonuses go well, I’ll just upgrade everything and get the cabinet saw.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6710 posts in 1419 days


#17 posted 552 days ago

Pay for the DA—-NG electrical work already! You will NOT regret it. Geez… I can still hear the music in the shop while cutting! NOT so with the jointer and planer, but you get what I mean…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 791 days


#18 posted 552 days ago

Does your current garage have an electrical panel in it? If yes, it would be extremely inexpensive to stick a 220 plug out there. If no panel, how far is the panel from the garage?

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pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#19 posted 552 days ago

There is no panel in the garage. Actually all the power in the garage is Daisy chained off the kitchen. It is pretty bad.

The main panel is probably 20 feet from the garage in a straight line.

Boston prices for this work are wicked inflated. I lived in Charlotte for 6 years and I could have done this upgrade for like $1000 or so.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1684 posts in 1133 days


#20 posted 552 days ago

that 690 is a nice saw. the riving knife alone will make it a safer tool, and of course the fence is a vast improvement over what you’ve got now. quite a departure from your 8” c-man. nothing like jumping into a hobby with both feet!

check grizzly after november 1st. the november issue of the family handyman had an ad that showed a couple of TSs at reduced prices. i think the 691 was down $30 from normal, but a 10” hybrid type saw (g0713?) was down to $650. it’s really tempting to get a “battlestar gallactica” class TS, but do you really need it?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6710 posts in 1419 days


#21 posted 552 days ago

RECOMMENDATION:
Get off your butt and run the buried line yourself! Only hire an electrician for the final hookup on BOTH ends. You will save a bundle and piss off an electrician ;-)

FWIW, I ran #00 80ft to my garage and got both ends hooked up for $50. Come on! Be creative about this and you can get quite a bit done. The final hookup is on the professional. All you do is dig the dang trench and bury the cable, or conduit if you really want to get creative. There ARE solutions. Look for them…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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Charlie

1001 posts in 791 days


#22 posted 552 days ago

You’ll get a lot of “go big or go home” advice here. Evaluate your needs and think about what is is you think you’ll want to do. The Steel City 35950 is a nice saw for a grand. The 35990 all cast iron is $749. I have the granite version of that and got it for $649. I built all my kitchen cabinets with it. It’s a fine saw. Cabinet saws look cooler. And to be honest, I wish I could have afforded one. But now… seeing what I’ve accomplished with the choice I made, I have no regrets at all. The money you save can be put toward a good band saw later. The band saw can ostensibly cut the big, thick heavier pieces more safely than the table saw and use less power doing it. I just bought a 14 inch Delta band saw (28-203 on closed stand with 1hp motor) used for $260 in beautiful condition. So for $909 I have 2 really good saws giving me a lot of capability. If I get so far into this that I need a bigger table saw I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. I think what I have will work great for years to come. And at 60….. how many years to come do I have to worry about it? :)

View sixstring's profile

sixstring

296 posts in 748 days


#23 posted 552 days ago

I suggest adding your own 220… especially since your wife OK’d the saw. It’s not hard but be sure to shut the power first…. Scary things happen when you dont, believe me =)

Really the only difficult part would be routing the cable to the saw if you have to go through the house. But hey, that’s what attics or crawlspaces are for.

-- JC Garcia, Concord, CA : "It's easier to ask forgiveness than permission..."

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

387 posts in 690 days


#24 posted 552 days ago

go for the grizz hybrid. I can rip through 12/4 hard maple on my contractor saw at 1.5 hp. (just did it over the weekend)

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#25 posted 552 days ago

I’ve been thinking about this all day, and I think I’m going to go for the hybrid grizzly. It is a great price and seems like a good candidate for meeting my needs/wants. And I can run a single dedicated 110 line without messing with the service upgrades at this time.

Now for my next post. Vintage power tools for sale. Lol.

Thanks for the input.

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lumberjoe

2798 posts in 753 days


#26 posted 552 days ago

If you don’t run 220v, get the R4512. At 500$ (less if you can convince your store to take a HF 20% off coupon) you can’t even come close to the saw/value ratio. The alignment issue can be diagnosed with the saw in the box in the parking lot if need be, and recent models seem to be good. It’s not something that develops over time either, it’s a manufacturing defect.
You will not get substantially more saw unless you go 220v and 3hp. Yeah, you get more cast iron, but the R4512 has enough. Also the steel extensions are surprisingly sturdy. Pop a router table insert in the empty space and you are good to go.

I agonized for months over this same decision, including the same saws. I wanted to spend about a grand. I still spent a grand, but I also got a Porter cable 7518 router, an insert for it, a bunch of blades, and some zero clearance inserts. I could not justify spending over 1000.00$ on a 1.5hp hybrid when you are VERY close to something like HorizontalMike posted above

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

387 posts in 690 days


#27 posted 552 days ago

The grizz hybrid is still a lifetime saw. It is built exactly like a cabinet saw but has a less powerfull motor which can be upgraded if you ever need to

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6710 posts in 1419 days


#28 posted 552 days ago

No offense Cole, and I know you want to believe this, but at 16 you are saying that that hybrid saw will last at least another 50-years. That is a tall order that not even I would say that about my G0690 240v full cabinet saw, and I am sure you understand that 240v motors last much longer than their 120v versions. I admit that hybrid saws can be great bargains, but THAT kind of longevity is not their proven strong suit.

We all can buy one “good” saw for a lifetime, or we can buy three or four lesser saws over a lifetime. We all have to make that decision, and the rules do not change for the most part. I am sorry that I had to disagree, but that is how I see it…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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lumberjoe

2798 posts in 753 days


#29 posted 552 days ago

And that is also why I would not recommend anything more than the R4512. It’s not going be your last table saw. Neither is Grizzly hybrid, or the Steel City.

I love my R4512, but it is just keeping the concrete in my shop warm for when I finally am far along enough in my journey where i feel like I can justify owning and fully take advantage of the Hammer K3 Winner. The Ridgid will definitely be there next year and it’s likely it will still be there in 5 years. If you ask the crystal ball for anything beyond that, it will return “doubtful”.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 803 days


#30 posted 552 days ago

get the biggest saw you can afford with all extensions make sure you get table extensions you will need them for plywood please please please please don’t hesitate

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 803 days


#31 posted 552 days ago

grizzly 690 with extensions best bet

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#32 posted 552 days ago

Thanks for the input. I’m going to sleep on this for the weekend and see what makes sense to me.

Too bad grizzly doesn’t accept the hf 20% coupon. :-)

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UKCat

82 posts in 572 days


#33 posted 552 days ago

I didn’t know HD honored HF 20% off coupons. I was down to it and the grizzly 0715 and decided that rigid should be plenty for my needs. am getting the 4512 Friday and will try that coupon. I am upgrading from a skil 10” and feel like a kid on Christmas morning. And I may put the incra fence on it and still be about the same price as the grizzly.

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NiteWalker

2329 posts in 1082 days


#34 posted 552 days ago

One more thing to think about, the grizzly has table mounted trunions (can be a pain to aling, but not all the time) and only a 1 year warranty vs the steel city 35950’s 5 year warranty and being a true cabinet saw. That’s worth the extra $400 IMHO, along with the fact that you have a better saw overall.

Typically when a family member asks me what tv size to get, I ask them their ideal size, and give them a recommendation of the next size up. Close in price, but better overall.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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pendledad

181 posts in 595 days


#35 posted 552 days ago

I checked steel city and I didn’t see a retailers or distributor in my area other than HD. I have woodcraft and rocker near me… But they seem to favor offering saw stop and jet.

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 791 days


#36 posted 552 days ago

If you want the Steel City, and you have a Home Depot nearby, go in with the Steel City 2012 Fall/Winter flyer in hand. Ask them to match the manufacturer’s advertised price. I am reasonably sure they will. None of the local Home depot around here will honor the Harbor Freight 20% off coupon unless you can show them that Steel City saw at Harbor Freight.

They WILL, however, honor the 10% off Lowes “mover” discount. Takes Lowes about 3 days to email it to you, but if it gets you 10% off it might be worth the wait.

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lumberjoe

2798 posts in 753 days


#37 posted 552 days ago

Can you still get the movers discounts at the post office?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

445 posts in 1710 days


#38 posted 552 days ago

I have to agree with Mike on pretty much everything he’s said here, pretty sound advice. I know there are sometimes sacrifices that we have to make, but the more times we do this the more of a habit it becomes. I was in the same situation regarding getting a 6” jointer vs a 8”. The 8” was more expensive, but I knew that someday I would end up buying an 8”. My wife said just go ahead and get the 8” now, you will get it later on anyway.

good luck with whichever you choose pendledad, you have to make your own decisions and you probably know which is the right one by now.

Cheers

-- Williamsburg, KY

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thedude50

3438 posts in 983 days


#39 posted 552 days ago

I have ran with a contrator saw for many years but I just pulled the trigger on what I think is the best safest saw made today. i WENT WITH THE 3HP SAW STOP WITH THE 52 INCH FENCE. I amall for saving money but in the long run buying a great saw at todays price will save you money. who knows what will happen in this country over the next few years . THING I EXPECT IS THE UGLY RETURN OF INFLATION. The best saw you can afford without borrowing money. that is what i recommend and i do recommend the saw stop. FWIW I am running all my own wire to put an aux panel in the shop with 220 for the saw and the compressor. I am running home runs to each machine in the shop. I am doing the whole job for under 600 dollars and this is going to be the shop i will be in for many years this is the saw i will use for the next 20 years and i am good with that . my old saw still is accurate and runs great it is going to my uncles shop as a loaner to him and it is going to be use3d for many years it was a good saw the saw stop is a great saw. And it is a safe saw which is a bonus to me i did not pick the saw for the safety feature but it is a nice feature.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1663 days


#40 posted 552 days ago

Steve Jobs once said something like, “People don’t know what they need. It’s my job to tell them what they need.” That’s the power of vision.

If there is a reason why big cabinet saw guys like us come across as door-to-door vacuum salesmen, it’s because we’ve actually used the saws that people ALWAYS say they dont need. We realize that NONE of us truly knew what we needed until we had it! Much like an iPhone, none of us understood Jobs’ vision and, consequentially, we now cannot envision our lives without one.

I used 110v table saws for 25 years of my life. I had no idea what I was missing, but I got my 3 hp Unisaw NOT because I thought I needed it, but rather because it was entirely too much value to pass up. I suspected that it would change the projects I would do, but I didn’t understand the extent of that. I don’t think twice about resawing even the toughest of hardwood with this saw. And I don’t fear for my life like I did with lesser saws. I’d be afraid to use anything less.

The good thing is that if you never use one, you have nothing to worry about. You’ll never catch the vision. But the moment you do, you’ll be pushing Kirby’s to all your neighbors.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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toolie

1684 posts in 1133 days


#41 posted 552 days ago

i just have to ask: what the he!! does this mean “you’ll be pushing Kirby’s to all your neighbors.”

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1663 days


#42 posted 552 days ago

LOL. You think Dyson vacuums are expensive? Try on a Kirby.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirby_Company

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5153 posts in 1881 days


#43 posted 552 days ago

The grizz hybrid is still a lifetime saw. It is built exactly like a cabinet saw but has a less powerfull motor which can be upgraded if you ever need to….

Simply not true. The outside cabinet and table dimensions are the only things that are similar. Under the hood there are extreme differences in the construction and robustness of the two types of saws. A good hybrid or contractor saw are capable of good work, but they’re not built nearly as ruggedly as a true industrial cabinet saw.

Here’s the G0715P (404#) and the G0690 (542#) from the outside (pretty similar):

The guts of the G0715P are very similar to the guts of the Ridgid R4512, which look like this:

The guts from the former G0478 are much more similar to the G0715P, and are a good illustration of how they’re built:

Here’s a look at the guts from the G0690 and G1023RL (much beefier than any hybrid saw):

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6710 posts in 1419 days


#44 posted 552 days ago

Jay SAID: ”...The good thing is that if you never use one, you have nothing to worry about. You’ll never catch the vision. But the moment you do, you’ll be pushing Kirby’s to all your neighbors….”

Geez… there goes that age thing again… I was thinking “Hoovers”

;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1663 days


#45 posted 552 days ago

@Mike – I’m only 44…if that makes me old, then what does that make you? LOL!

@Toolie – For decades, Kirby vacuums have been sold door to door, which is their entire business model. Salesmen give demonstrations and normally find a reason to hang around for a few hours. They’ll sell you the Kirby system for a couple of thousand backs and make you feel like you got a good deal. They are really good at what they do. But generally they are free to sell them for whatever they feel they can get.

The vacuums themselves are exceptional machines. One of their most convincing demonstrations is to vacuum over a spot after you do with your own vacuum.

I’ve never bought one, but I remember my parents hosting a guy when I was growing up. They never bought one, but that guy could charm the rattle off a snake.

Recently, my $400 LG [piece of crap] vacuum broke, so I borrowed my neighbor’s Kirby that they spent $1200 on. It’s a monster, like all Kirby’s.

Anyway, us big cabinet saw guys can sometimes appear to really impress upon others our experiences and love of our machine, only without the charms of a Kirby guy. But our behavior in this is somewhat consistent…and people who haven’t shared our experiences should probably see that there’s SOMETHING to what we say and explore that.

Is it better to have loved and lost, or to never have loved at all? Most table saw buyers don’t know what love is.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Grandpa

2985 posts in 1180 days


#46 posted 552 days ago

Recently I was in our local lumber yard looking picking up some supplies and I ran across a friend. He had his thumb wrapped and sticking up. It was as large as an ice tea tumbler. I asked what he had done and he told me he was introducing his thumb to a saw blade when this happened. He also went on to say he was looking for one of those new fangled says that would cut a hot dog. I must tell you that I have never looked at one of these new fangled saws so You know I don’t own one but that is something to think about.

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thedude50

3438 posts in 983 days


#47 posted 551 days ago

grandpa come on over ill show you mine I AM VERY PROUD OF HER she is a black beauty

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 791 days


#48 posted 551 days ago

If I had the disposable cash to pay the SawStop premium I might consider it. But is there a sawstop planer, jointer, band saw, router?
If you’re a woodworker, using power tools, then you have blades spinning really fast that WILL tear you up if you have a lapse in your attention to where your hands are. I will be the first to admit though, that I keep very much in mind what I was taught very early on… “The table saw is one of the most dangerous tools in the shop.”

Not because it’s an inherently dangerous tool, but because we use it so much we get complacent. Set the fence, turn it on, push the wood through. Done. We forget about, “where are your hands?”, “where are your hands headed?”, “should you be using a push stick?”, “any unusual resistance?”, and a ton of other things you should be thinking about when using the table saw.

Don’t be thinking about the NEXT operation. Think about what you’re doing RIGHT NOW. I’m getting off topic, but I’ll leave you with this:
I personally know a guy who …. as safety minded as he was …. somehow managed to stack and store things in such a way that they fell over, and knocked his 18” band saw over ONTO HIS LEG and broke his leg and crushed his foot so badly it had to be amputated. This happened WHILE he had his back turned to the band saw because he was running his TABLE SAW! He never heard the commotion behind him. The GOOD news is… no accidents from the table saw as a result. He was off to one side of his cut so when the piece exited the table saw it missed him, his hand placement kept his hands away from the blade and on the way down to the floor he had the presence of mind to drag one hand over the STOP switch on the table saw.

So he was on the floor of his shop, with a band saw on his broken leg, with his back to the band saw and hollering his head off for ALMOST HALF AN HOUR before someone heard him, called 911 and got the band saw off of him.

Your shop is not an inherently safe place to be. YOU have to make it safe.

Sorry….. got off on quite a ramble there…. happens sometimes…

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1663 days


#49 posted 551 days ago

Dear thedude50,

You suck!

Sincerely,

jay

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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NiteWalker

2329 posts in 1082 days


#50 posted 551 days ago

^What Jay said. ;p
That saw is beautiful.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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