I did. I am going to try french polishing at some point but what I’ve read says that it is very difficult to do. I’m going to need to practice on scrap wood first.
And right now I’ve got a bookshelf with shellac already on it that I need to shine up.
French Polish has its place, but I don’t know where. With finishes available that will produce the desired results without the drawbacks of shellac, I can’t appreciate the incentive to learn the process.
-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate
French polishing has a place precisely because it is traditional. It has taken a lot of flak, not unlike hot hide glue, over the years from people who haven’t bothered to try it. Also like hide glue, most of these criticisms are unfounded. It does have a learning curve but when did “easy” become a synonym for “best” or even “good” for that matter? Another important advantage of french pohish is that it produces a fantastic reversible finish. Ever try reversing a “modern” finish?
-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/
Just a thought, Purrmaster. Are you seeing scratches formed between coats of the finish or are scratches underneath the finish (on the underlying wood surface) becoming more pronounced?
-- I dream of the world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.
I think this is an application problem. Maybe with your brush or spray method.
I recommend french polishing. It is something you can do sort of halfway, like a wiping varnish, to build up coats.
That said, you can french polish over any shellacked surface and the alcohol will “melt” the layers together. It’s the pressure of the “rubber” (fr. “tampon”) than compresses the finish and makes it smooth and lustrous. As more coats build, friction happens and the finish can tear up, which is a hassle to repair. So we add a little oil to lubricate the rubber and this helps it slide and not tear the finish. Then when the polish is done the oil finds it way to the surface as the shellac cures and after awhile you can “spirit off” the oil with alcohol on a clean rubber.
It’s really not that hard to do but it does take time and when you are learning you will not have a feel for when to add some oil and you’ll tear the finish sooner or later.
This is my understanding from experience. While I don’t consider my skills at french polish any more than capable-level, I learned pretty quick how not to tear the shellac and that is the major hazard. Everything else about it is forgiving.
I believe the scratches are appearing between sanding/polishing of the finish. The wood underneath is not perfectly flat and blemish free. I spent forever planing and sanding the stuff and at some point had to just start building. Madrone doesn’t have a lot of open pores so I think I got lucky there in not needing grain/pore filler (which I don’t have).
I have no doubt that this is an application problem. This is my first time using shellac and it shows. I’m going to try out french polishing on the next project. Or rather, practice first. At this point I was looking for a way to put a super high gloss on the shellac already laid down. Sort of like paint on a new car.
My expectations may also be insane, I grant you that.
I’ve been able to achieve a high gloss with polyurethane. That didn’t even require sanding between coats. But the tradeoff I noticed is that the poly seems to make the piece look it was dipped in plastic.
I’m trying out finishes that are new to me to try and get some experience and skill with them.
I don’t have spraying equipment. Finish gets put on by brush or by pad.
If you are applying finish with a pad, then french polish should not be a problem for you. The trick is to make a nice good pad and have two bottles for application, one with the shellac and one with alcohol. If the pad starts sticking to the shellac, apply a couple of drops to the pad surface. I have seen people sand in between coats, but like Loren said, you can just apply one on top of the other layer until you get the desired gloss.
For lacquer I use 3M polishing compound, it leaves a mirror surface. Maybe it will work for shellac.
-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.
Do you get the 3M compound at the auto parts store? I saw some rubbing compound the other day but not their polishing compound. What do you use to apply and remove the polishing compound?
That’s an interesting idea. Perhaps dewaxed shellac doesn’t take as good a shine.
Cars are kind of the world I come from as well. I’m not an expert detailer or anything but I’ve polished/waxed/buffed up the paint on my car many times.
When I put the final coat of wax on I’m using Minwax paste finishing wax. Buffing out the wax seems to damage the shellac. It’s as if the shellac coating is too soft… Perhaps I need a softer wax to use as the final protective coat.
When I get home I’ll check out those videos. Thank you. I’ve got a piece of scrap cherry I can start practicing on.
By the way, I tried using Scratch X 2.0 and it didn’t help much. I also used some 6,000 grit micromesh discs I got for the Worksharp. Didn’t help a lot either.
I ordered some micro mesh from Scientific Instrument Services and I’ll try that. The grits go up to 12,000 on that.
I don’t understand the problem. At the very least, I’ve sanded dried shellac with 600 wet-or-dry, followed by polishing with white polishing compound and gotten scratch-free, glass smooth results. My GUESS is that the shellac may be old.
The shellac is only a couple of weeks old, freshly mixed from flakes. When you say white polishing compound could you please tell me what brand/type of white polishing compound you are referring to?
Do you get the 3M compound at the auto parts store? I saw some rubbing compound the other day but not their polishing compound. What do you use to apply and remove the polishing compound?
I got it at a hardware store, but I guess and auto parts store might have it. I apply it with a cloth, let it dry and then remove it with a dry cloth. Something that will not scratch your surface. You have to make sure you have sanded the surface even.
-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.
Yeah, I don’t understand the problem either. I just sanded a shellac finish with 600 grit and it isn’t a mirror finish but it’s shiny, better than satin. I went over it again with a rag dabbed in alcohol and then shellac and it was shiny, I would call it semi-gloss. If you’ve used pumice, rottenstone and 2500 grit sandpaper and can’t get a glossy finish then something is horribly wrong.
What I do… (helps to fill the grain) 1. Spit coat, sand to 220 2. Heavier coat, sand with 320 3. Heavier coat, sand with 400 4. Heavier coat, sand with 600 5. Spit coat, buff out
You could probably skip a lot of the sanding if your shop is clean. My building is old and dust literally rains from the ceiling so my finishes get little dust nibs that I need to sand out. I should probably build a little finishing booth but I’m too lazy.
-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|
I’m probably doing it wrong, as was suggested earlier. It may also be that the kind of gloss I want is not practical. Sometimes a panel I’ve worked on will have spots that are smooth and shiny and others that are duller.
Also, putting on the wax as a protectant usually ends up scratching the finish after I buff it out. Perhaps I need to use a different wax.
I don’t understand the sanding between coats of shellac unless you have dust in the previous coat. The alcohol in the next coat melts into the previous coat of shellac and it all becomes one coat in the end . It’s not like adding multiple layers of poly to a surface where you have to let each layer dry and sand between layers so the next one will stick to the previous one.
-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!
Dusty, Shellac really raises the grain in a lot of woods (elm,mulberry,and sycamore have been the worst for me) and I usually sand with 220 after 1 or 2 coats, then go to 320 or 400 depending on how it feels. I just did a walnut coat rack today that was smooth as silk pre-shellac and rough as a cob after 2 coats. Light sanding with 220 got it back smooth.
-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm
I guess my point is that there is no need to sand the shellac itself unless there are contaminants in it : ) Did you continue to sand between each layer after getting it smooth ? I raise the grain on my projects and final sand , prior to applying any finish.: )
-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!
As long as the finish feels perfectly smooth and has no visable “oops”, I don’t sand any more (unless I want to knock the shine down after the final coat).
-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm
French polish just isn’t that hard and all you need is shellac, alcohol, a little oil and a cloth pad. Why are you spending so much money and time. Watch some videos and practice on some scrap.
This photo is a french polished surface with no wax, no polishing compound no sanding (except wood prep) It took about ten sessions of about 5 min each. Why make it harder than it has to be? It looks shiny in this photo. In life it is really glass-like.
-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/
There may be issue with expectations. Shellac is not as hard as polyurethane or lacquer. It scratches easier. If you are having issues with clouding, it may actually be your alcohol. I have run into this personally. Alcohol absorbs water, even from the atmosphere. It will cause a white haze to develop, especially in a humid atmosphere. The only solution at that point is to get fresh alcohol and rub the piece down until you remove the haze by removing those layers that are contaminated.
If the issue is small scratches, I’m not sure how this is happening. It may be a dusty environment that is adding dust as you polish. I would have to see it before I could give any advice on that.
I’ll try and take some pictures though I’m rather embarrassed to show you guys the crap job I’ve done.
I am using dewaxed shellac. Mostly because I had heard that was in some way preferable to waxed shellac. I think I’d like to try some of the non-dewaxed shellac, actually.
I’m going to sand down a piece of cherry I have and start practicing french polishing. What I had read was that french polishing doesn’t give as good a shine as buffing the daylights out of already applied shellac. You have convinced me otherwise.
If you’ve got a good ROS, I’d put some wet 600 on it and some oil and polish it that way. Then wax it. You’re not going to get a shine with ordinary sand paper no matter how fine. You need a good polishing oil, I think Matco has one, and some Abrinet 600 and make a good slurry with the ROS on a low setting. Should look like a piece of glass, but I don’t know what kind of wood you’re using.
-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.
Update: I used the Micro Mesh. The results were slightly better than wet or dry sandpaper but not hugely so. Also, the Micro Mesh loaded up fast and very small bits of the shellac kept “flaking” off. The same thing happened with sandpaper but the sandpaper handled it better.
Please note that I sanded dry.
The bottom line: Not really worth getting Micro Mesh for shellac. It might work better on a lacquer finish.
I’m going to start practising French polishing on scrap wood.
I have sprayed shellac with great results using gravity feed HVLP guns. That said, I build arts and crafts furniture so I am never going for a high gloss finish. Three coats of sprayed lacquer -without buffing it out – is the easiest and most durable way to achieve a gloss finish. I usually stop at two coats and buff it out with wax and #0000 steel wool for a satin finish.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
@Purrmaster – I am having the same problem as you. After the last coat of sprayed shellac, I sanded with 1000 Wetdry, 1500 Wetdry, 2000 Wetdry, then polished with a cloth with Meguiars Mirro Glaze Swirl Remover 2.0. The result feels perfectly smooth to the touch and it a little bit reflective, but certainly not “mirror-like” like I was also hoping to achieve.
I do want to add one thing that I have found about French polishing – do not use the box store shellac in a can on your really nice piece of furniture. Go out and get some good shellac flakes (shellac.com is one source) and make your own mixture. I found that this made all the difference in the quality of the work.
I have to admit that the only things that I have French polished were veneered pieces – mostly repairing antiques.
Paul – there is no question here, you do some really nice work – and you are retired???? You are just starting.
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