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All Replies on How Much can a blade affect a miter cut.

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View Rookie702's profile

How Much can a blade affect a miter cut.

by Rookie702
posted 10-11-2012 05:31 PM


20 replies so far

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2097 posts in 878 days


#1 posted 10-11-2012 05:55 PM

If the blade is dull, it should burn the maple while cutting, plus be hard to pull thru the maple. I am wondering if there is some slop in the saw carriage for you to be getting such a cut. Have you tested to be sure it’s not an optical illusion ?

A dull blade will also cause chipout, especially at the ends of the cut.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View patron's profile

patron

13103 posts in 2031 days


#2 posted 10-11-2012 06:02 PM

clean and sharp
is what works best

and stops or clamps
to keep the wood from ‘creeping’

i never use thin kerf blades
for just this reason

i know some like them
but to me they are just a marketing ploy
to use less steel
and jack the price
for ‘new and improved’

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5516 posts in 2065 days


#3 posted 10-11-2012 06:05 PM

A high quality sharp blade that’s appropriate for the task is critical. Are you using a miter saw or a table saw?

Let us know what saw you’re using, and I’m sure someone can give you a good blade suggestion.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Rookie702's profile

Rookie702

42 posts in 967 days


#4 posted 10-11-2012 06:06 PM

I was just reading a forum topic on clean blades, and i can honestly i have never cleaned a blade in my life, guess i’ll start tonight. I only woodwork as a hobby so my table saw and blades dont get that much use, just a couple of times of week so i think my blades are dirty and but still sharp.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3458 posts in 1660 days


#5 posted 10-11-2012 06:07 PM

Another important effect is whether there is damage to the blade.

If, for instance one edge clipped a hidden nail or staple and got chipped at some time in the past.
This will make the blade try to cut at an angle, but the bearings and shaft are fighting to keep it straight.
The result is some interesting warpage in the blade in the cut; might even look like a wave pattern.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3190 posts in 1365 days


#6 posted 10-11-2012 06:13 PM

A blade that is designed for a miter saw is critical. I loaned my saw to a friend. When it came home it had a different blade on it. It was recently sharpened and all but it was not a saw blade for that kind of work and you could not make two 45 deg cuts come together and close up or enven make a 90 degree angle. A new blade took care of that.

View Rookie702's profile

Rookie702

42 posts in 967 days


#7 posted 10-11-2012 06:29 PM

I’m using a JET 10” Contractor Saw, just purchased in May of this year, and i’ve setup the saw as best as i know how, plus have incra miter gauge.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5516 posts in 2065 days


#8 posted 10-11-2012 07:22 PM

If cleaning your current blade doesn’t help, or if the current blade isnt’ a high quality blade, I’d definitely look to a new one. Considering the task, I’d opt for a full kerf blade to reduce the chance of deflection (though I do think a high quality thin kerf blade for many TS operations are fine).

Without knowing your blade budget, I’ll start with some bargains….the Delta 35-7657 40T ATB general purpose blade is still on sale through Cripe or Amazon for < $30 shipped. This German made Onsrud 50T blade is ~ $25 shipped. For ~ $70, the Infinity Combomax is the best of the 50T blades I’ve used. Nearly any high quality 40T to 60T 1/8” full kerf blade should do well if it’s suitable for TS.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Rookie702's profile

Rookie702

42 posts in 967 days


#9 posted 10-11-2012 08:09 PM

Budget. what’s that?, when it comes to tools and hobbies for me if i want it and need it i pretty much get it. The mortgage company can wait. Haha…as far as blades, i’ve purchased 10 or 11 blades thinking they were all dull, i’m so excited to get home and clean my blades and hopefully they work again.

whoohoo

View patron's profile

patron

13103 posts in 2031 days


#10 posted 10-11-2012 08:22 PM

read up on the different blade types

they all have different purposes
designed for different tools and cuts

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Sgt374's profile

Sgt374

36 posts in 1284 days


#11 posted 10-11-2012 09:47 PM

What usually happens is the blade is dull and the maple is hard so you force the saw through the cut and the blade deflects and the wood pushes to the side giving you a bad cut. That’s why a sharp, clean, crosscut blade is necessary.

View Rookie702's profile

Rookie702

42 posts in 967 days


#12 posted 10-11-2012 09:58 PM

I have sandpaper against my fence and i can’t see it move or feel it move, but it sounds like the wood still is moving without me noticing is that correct?

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5516 posts in 2065 days


#13 posted 10-11-2012 10:35 PM

A dirty blades acts like a dull blade, and actually causes premature dulling. Definitely keep them clean!

It’s possible that your blade is actually deflecting during the cut. There are few things that can cause that. We know you’re using a Jet contractor saw, but not what blade you’ve been using.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View mrg's profile

mrg

524 posts in 1689 days


#14 posted 10-11-2012 10:41 PM

Is the blade adjusted high enough? If the blade is not high enough you will get a dished cut.

-- mrg

View Rookie702's profile

Rookie702

42 posts in 967 days


#15 posted 10-11-2012 11:06 PM

Is the blade adjusted high enough? If the blade is not high enough you will get a dished cut., ummm this might be the cause of some of my problems, as i was trying to keep the blade as low as possible in an effort to minimize any kind of deflection. Your term “dished” made sense to me and after thinking about the blade etc, this could be the case..thank you.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7739 posts in 2337 days


#16 posted 10-12-2012 12:19 AM

I think you might want to acquire a disc sander.

They excel at fixing miters and sort of replace the
old miter jacks.

You can get a “sanding blade for your table saw which
allows the gentle fixing of miter angles.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View rickf16's profile

rickf16

376 posts in 2271 days


#17 posted 10-12-2012 12:34 AM

I would check to make sure the wood is square and flat. I had a hard time cutting 45’s like you are describing and noticed that the boards I was milling had a slight twist. A couple times through the jointer face down and problem solved. Just my 2…

-- Rick

View Alongiron's profile

Alongiron

404 posts in 1383 days


#18 posted 10-12-2012 12:41 AM

Is your Fence set at 45 with your blade at 90 or is your blade tipped to 45? The reason I ask is that your miter guage may have just a bit of “slop” in in and when you push it through the blade it may be causing the problem.

-- Measure twice and cut once.....

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

895 posts in 2303 days


#19 posted 10-12-2012 01:49 PM

I had exactly that problem while tuning my new sliding miter saw. Didn’t matter – cuts at 90 or 45 degrees all seemed to be bowed in the middle. It looked to me like the blade was actually flexing during the cut.

I finally replaced the cheapo blade that came with the saw and everything looks good. I have trouble understanding why the blade makes sooo much difference. I mean, I can see the quality of the cut varying, but I have trouble seeing why a cheap blade would flex more especially since they were both full size blades, not thin kerf. I can attest that it does make a difference.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5516 posts in 2065 days


#20 posted 10-12-2012 02:01 PM

The performance of blades can vary a lot. All steel is not created equal, and is not treated equally once formed. The quality and consistency of the steel, the tensioning process, the design of the expansion slots, anti-vibration/anti-noise slots, balance, how it handles heat, and a bunch of other factors are all variables of blade performance that pertains to just the body. The carbide, sharpening, and tooth geometries are other huge factors. There’s a lot more to the better blades than profit margin.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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