All Replies on 10" saw blade on a budget

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View Ben Simms's profile

10" saw blade on a budget

by Ben Simms
posted 10-11-2012 03:48 PM

26 replies so far

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2394 days

#1 posted 10-11-2012 03:53 PM

I have Diablo rip, crosscut, and dado blades. Been extremely pleased with all, but then again, never used a Forrest or anything fancy like that. My Diablo blades leave a great edge and cut easily. Plus, readily available locally. I’ve used Dewalt crosscut blade as well, but have been happier with my Diablos.

If you have to buy just one blade, see what the offer in combination blades. I still use the combo blade that came with my Bosch TS for cuts where I don’t mind a little bit of a rougher edge. And that edge is due to the fact that its a cheap blade that came with my saw, not because it’s a combo blade.

Also run a diablo in my circular saw, and after replacing the old lousy blade, I wish I had done it sooner.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 2995 days

#2 posted 10-11-2012 03:54 PM

I like Diablo 90 tooth for crosscut work just fine for my work. It’s around $49 I think.

Also, I got a Ridgid (gold color) 54 tooth combo blade that I like a lot. Think it was like $29 at Home Depot.
I keep the combo blade on my TS and the crosscut on my CMS.

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2272 days

#3 posted 10-11-2012 04:08 PM

The Irwin Marples 50 tooth combo blade is a bit better than the Diablo and around the same price. I reviewed both of them here. If you need to spend under 50$ and only want one blade, that would be my recommendation. Lowes carries them (online and in store)


View toolie's profile


2134 posts in 2653 days

#4 posted 10-11-2012 04:13 PM

10” delta 40T combo blade said to rival the performance of a similar WWII blade. $18 plus shipping. it’s in my amazon shopping cart for my next order.

here’s a review by knotscott:

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View AJLastra's profile


87 posts in 2253 days

#5 posted 10-11-2012 04:18 PM

I second the recommendation for the Marples blade. I’ve been a looooong time user of Forrest WWII blades. Ocassionally use a CMT rip blade and have used off and on the Freud Premier Fusion blade too. I’ve had the Marples blade on the saw for the last month and its impressive. It wont give you a flawless edge on rip cuts… may get some saw marks but I handled those by just touching up some edges with a sharp block plane because the tooth marks were only in certain spots and it wasnt worth running the jointer.

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3672 days

#6 posted 10-11-2012 04:21 PM

Check out Onsrud blades sold as overstock on ebay. Real
quality pro-shop blades at very low prices.

If you cut a lot of pine, your blades will get gummed up
with pitch and it makes for rough and smelly sawing. Soaking
the blade in soapy water and scrubbing with a soft bristle
brush improves such blades a lot.

View Jeff's profile


439 posts in 3219 days

#7 posted 10-11-2012 04:37 PM

Agree with Loren about cleaning. You’ll probably find that was your problem. Especially with Doug fir.

If you have time wait around a sharpening service is usually cheaper than a new blade. However, it’s always good to have a back up blade.

View americanwoodworker's profile


185 posts in 2398 days

#8 posted 10-11-2012 04:39 PM

I used the diablo combo blade and I have mixed feelings on that one. First it cut maple and walnut like butter. But after several cuts I noticed it was not cutting as good. So I cleaned it, and nothing. Checked my table saw and accessory accuracies and all seemed good. Then I noticed that one tooth was coming off. Checked all others and they seemed good. I dont think I banged it on any metal surface and the tooth was not chipped. Just the brazing that holds the tooth was not good enough I guess.

I liked it at the beginning. But I think I will experiment with other blades before I settle on diablo .

-- Your freedom to be you, includes my freedom to be free from you.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

20594 posts in 3130 days

#9 posted 10-11-2012 05:56 PM

If you use a lot of pine, the problem may be pitch build up and you may not need a new blade. Oven cleaner is the best for cleaning a blade or a router bit of pitch. It is cheap at the dollar store.
Try that and see if it improves…..............Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View knotscott's profile


8056 posts in 3400 days

#10 posted 10-11-2012 06:24 PM

What saw do you have Ben?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View George_SA's profile


370 posts in 2237 days

#11 posted 10-11-2012 08:59 PM

I agree with Jim. I also cut a lot of pine, because that is what I got for free. I find that cleaning the pitch from the blade more often than normal makes a big difference. As soon as the blade starts to leave burn marks on the wood, I know it is time for a clean up.

-- Sometimes life gets in the way of one's woodworking :)

View ChuckC's profile


828 posts in 2959 days

#12 posted 10-11-2012 09:11 PM

+1 for the Marples. I just picked up a 50T combination. It cuts very well.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2714 days

#13 posted 10-12-2012 02:18 AM

I am a big fan of Diablo blades and contrary to others, I use my 24 tooth rip blade for crosscuts, miters, etc. I do use a ZCI and backer boards but I never have tear out issues. I do keep my blades CLEAN (Simple Green- purple formula).

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Jim55's profile


168 posts in 2090 days

#14 posted 10-12-2012 02:52 AM

I just snagged a couple of those eBay “Onsrud” blades. I’m used to using low price Lowes. We’ll see. Frankly, I cut a lot of pine and have had problems with burning. I never thought about pitch build up. Thanks for the cleaning tips!

View Ben Simms's profile

Ben Simms

191 posts in 2315 days

#15 posted 10-12-2012 02:11 PM

I have a lot of great suggestions: Diablo, Irwin Marples, Delta, Onsrud
I going to do some research on these to figure out which is best for my purposes and budget.

My saw is a Central Machinery, 10”, 2 hp. lots of power and its in good condition although it is a budget saw. i got it for $40 on C-list, so the blade may end up costing more then the saw.

I had not considered cleaning the blade I have, that’s a good idea.
However the blade in question came with the saw in used condition, when I did finally inspect the blade there was a chipped tooth and worse, two of the teeth are bent out of alignment so i don’t know if its worth cleaning in this case. I will be inspecting and cleaning whatever new blade I get from time to time.

Thanks for all the feed back.

So it sounds like a combination blade would be good regardless of brand?

-- I played with Legos as a kid and I never had the part I thought I needed, so I learned to improvise. Now I'm an engineer with a woodworking hobby.

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2394 days

#16 posted 10-12-2012 02:32 PM

If it’s a cheap used blade with a chipped tooth and mis-aligned teeth, I’d toss it and get a new one and not turn back. Spend a little bit on the new blade and be confident in knowing exactly what you’re cutting with.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View knotscott's profile


8056 posts in 3400 days

#17 posted 10-12-2012 02:40 PM

Brand can matter but be careful to note which series you’re buying….there can be a big quality difference within the same brand.

You can get a decent combination blade for as little as $30. I think your saw would do best with a 3/32” thin kerf blade…..the Freud Diablo D1040X or D1050X, Irwin Marples 50T, CMT ITK 256.050.10 or ITK Plus P10050, DeWalt Precision Trim DW7140PT or DW7150PT are all good choices IMO. For a bit more money, the Infinity 010-150 is a nice step up that competes well with some of the best …on sale for ~ $60….great blade, easy to get excellent results with. Keep them clean and they’ll perform like new for longer.

I’d avoid Skil, Vermont America, Irwin’s Marathon or Sprint series, HF, most Sears, DeWalt’s Construction series, Avanti or Avanti Pro, Ryobi, Workforce, Oldham’s Contractor series and a slew of other off names….there are just too many other good blades to bother with mediocrity.

The Delta 7657 40T and Onsrud 50T are both good deals, but are 1/8” full kerf blades. They’re 33% wider than a 3/32” TK blade and require proportionately more power…the difference will show up most in thicker dense materials.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View SalvageCraft's profile


274 posts in 2550 days

#18 posted 10-12-2012 05:38 PM

Hey I haven’t been polite enough to read the other responses yet so excuse me if I’m repeating others here…
You might just need to clean the pitch off the blade you’ve got. Mix up some simple green and water at about 20% and let the blade soak for 15 minutes. Scrub the gunk off with a toothbrush and you’re all done!

I’ve been super happy using a Freud Diablo blade (they sell for about $30 I think). I’ve also bought a Forrest Woodworker II and the primo Freud Fusion blade. They all cut great but Freud definitely has the better price points.

-- Jesse --

View Planeman40's profile


1179 posts in 2785 days

#19 posted 10-13-2012 12:43 AM

I’ll weigh in here . . .

I have a new (as of a year ago) Hammer 12” sliding table saw, an expensive machine. My old saw was a Delta 10” saw so I had a lot of 10” blades and a 10” blade came with the Hammer saw. So I was fixed for saw blades except my old saw blades had to have the arbor punched to a slightly larger size with locating pin holes (European sizes).

I rarely have a need for a 12” blade, but a project in the works required one and money is short right now. So I thought I would try one of those “Horrible Freight” blades as I would only need it for a few cuts. I bought the “Horrible Freight” 12” blade for $36 and sent it to Forrest Blades to have the hole punched for another $36. The blade has around 100 carbide teeth.

Anyway, I tried it out a couple of months ago and found it cuts very accurately and very smoothly, so I have left it on the machine. I am very happy with this “cheap” Chinese saw blade and I saved about $70.

You might want to give a HF blade a try if you are on a tight budget.


-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View cabmaker's profile


1735 posts in 2833 days

#20 posted 10-13-2012 02:39 AM

If your totaly confused now just put a plain ole 7 1/4 combination blade on it and get to it. There plenty cheap and from the descricption of the type work your doing you will love it. JB

View knotscott's profile


8056 posts in 3400 days

#21 posted 10-13-2012 02:56 AM

It’s not my intention to be critical of anyone’s decisions, but there are two things the OP should consider before deviating too far from conventional wisdom:

1. HF sells cheap Chinese saw blades. Planeman got one that was apparently well enough made that it cuts well and didn’t shed any carbide. You just never know what the next one of the exact same model is going to be like. I’m not an HF hater by any means, but consistent quality isn’t exactly their mantra, so I tend to shy away from items that can throw carbide shards at high speed. It’s not a risk I’d be willing to take if there are other viable options.

2. If the OP is using his splitter/riving knife (as recommended), there’s a very high likelihood that a 7-1/4” blade will have a kerf width that’s narrower than the splitter/riving knife, which will cause the wood will hang up mid-cut. If there’s no splitter/riving knife installed then a 7-1/4” blade will work within it’s cutting height limitations, but note that the attack angle of the cut is very different than that of a 10” blade due it’s smaller diameter, so performance may not be quite as predictable.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View cutworm's profile


1075 posts in 2817 days

#22 posted 10-13-2012 12:21 PM

View Tennessee's profile


2873 posts in 2539 days

#23 posted 10-13-2012 12:28 PM

Something may be up with Diablo. I was walking through my HD on Friday, 10/11, and they had a variety of Diablo 7 1/4” blades in a variety of tooth counts for $9.99 each. That’s HF territory. Maybe others have seen wear rates that have driven down sales…

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

View Ben Simms's profile

Ben Simms

191 posts in 2315 days

#24 posted 11-16-2012 03:37 PM

I just got the 10” Diablo 50 tooth combination blade at HD for $30 (which i think is a good deal). took it home and swapped it with my old busted blade and WOW! completely amazing! I should have done this months ago. my table saw is now a joy to work with rather than a safety concern, and the board edges don’t have those deep curved blade marks anymore.

Thanks again for all the feedback. I am keeping all suggestions and will be trying out other blades as my time and budget allows.

-- I played with Legos as a kid and I never had the part I thought I needed, so I learned to improvise. Now I'm an engineer with a woodworking hobby.

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2198 days

#25 posted 11-27-2012 10:31 PM

I have an inexpensive saw blade source, Haltbar is the brand of the blade . I have no problems with my Haltbar blades so far, working well. Got lenox, grizzly and starrett too but never tried Diablo yet.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View shampeon's profile


1775 posts in 2207 days

#26 posted 11-28-2012 02:07 AM

I like Diablo blades. As Loren mentioned, the Onsrud blade I picked up off eBay for my RAS is outstanding, and I would have been happy paying double the price I actually paid.

I know this is an old thread, but cleaning the sap and gunk off the old blade would have been step 1. Then, depending on the quality of blade and going rates, resharpening.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

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