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View ~Julie~'s profile

Door Hardware Help needed

by ~Julie~
posted 10-04-2012 03:14 PM


25 replies so far

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1437 days


#1 posted 10-04-2012 03:37 PM

if you use self-closing hinges you might not need anything at all (the spring tension is pretty good at holding them closed).

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4163 posts in 1609 days


#2 posted 10-04-2012 03:48 PM

If you use a gate spring you wont need a catch

jamie

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1722 days


#3 posted 10-04-2012 03:52 PM

Magnetic catches are a doddle to fix, and come in chrome, nickel, brass, brown or white plastic finishes. I’d normally use a sprung hinge so just a stop like a plastic shelf stud would do it as well.

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#4 posted 10-04-2012 04:25 PM

I was going to use regular hinges. Spring hinges I see at LV are $60 per pair! I’d need either 4 or 6 pair.
Is this what you are referring to?

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View dhazelton's profile (online now)

dhazelton

1283 posts in 1050 days


#5 posted 10-04-2012 04:46 PM

That’s a cast brass spring, explains the price (well, still highway robbery for brass). You can get Stanley brand stamped spring hinges but if you are making solid doors as opposed to using hollow core I don’t know how those would hold up as they are meant for lighter screen doors. You could look around for some antique or repro surface mount sets or use the gate spring idea, not really pretty though. You could also look at storm door closers that have that piston in them, then it would close without slamming.

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#6 posted 10-04-2012 04:51 PM

My doors are pine, I will weigh them and see. I prefer regular hinges and just something between the doors like a magnet or ball catch, actually.

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3570 posts in 1566 days


#7 posted 10-04-2012 04:57 PM

A ball catch is fine. A standard lockset is often used when the door is 1-3/4” thick. Since your doors are 7/8” the standard lockset may not work.

Good luck

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1722 days


#8 posted 10-04-2012 05:05 PM

I wouldn’t use the $60pr hinges for shop cabinets unless I was fabulously wealthy. I was thinking more along the lines of a euro cup style hinge (the small cup ones) – however, your stiles look to narrow for that.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2991 posts in 1996 days


#9 posted 10-04-2012 05:05 PM

Julie, I think your choice of the roller ball catch is the best. Spring hinges will keep the door closed, but what if you want the door to stay open?

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#10 posted 10-04-2012 05:13 PM

These are full height doors, I will be blogging about them soon.
Yes MrRon I think that’s the best choice, I was just wondering if there was anything else out there. I haven’t made doors before, just cabinet doors, so I’m not so knowledgeable about the hardware available.
I wonder how close both doors have to meet, I think they are going to have to be quite close together for the catches to engage. We’ll see how well they fit, might have to plane the inside (meeting) stiles a little. It’s been a fun build, hope you all read it at my blog here, hopefully next week.

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

11479 posts in 1759 days


#11 posted 10-04-2012 05:28 PM

I use those little ball catches on the tops of a pair of french doors at my house and they need to be pretty close to the upper framing to catch and get a good hold. I was thinking about using a vertical rod that would sit in a recessed hole in the floor to lock them in place.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2098 posts in 941 days


#12 posted 10-04-2012 05:34 PM

7/8” seems pretty thin for a door. I am thinking they won’t be frame and panel at that thickness – if so they may want to move (bow ?) with humidity swings. I would pin the fixed door top and bottom . That will help with bowing and will make it a lot more rigid. Your floor is likely concrete but a good hammer drill will do the job. If you want decent hinges at a reasonable price I think outdoor “garden” hinges are they way to go.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1437 days


#13 posted 10-04-2012 05:37 PM

stiles would be too small to handle the euro cup (I pay 93 cents each for 6 way adjustables! but they need a min of 1 1/2” stiles on the standard sizes although I guess Blum now sells a “mini”). so back to standard…I think I’d opt for the magnets…not nearly as fussy to install and really nothing to ever wear out.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3589 posts in 2713 days


#14 posted 10-04-2012 05:42 PM

Not gonna put an astrigal molding in the center?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#15 posted 10-04-2012 06:17 PM

I am hoping that they won’t bow. They are 7/8” because that was as thick as I could get out of my pine after planing. They are frame and panel and have haunched mortise and tenons.

I prefer not to drill into the concrete (heated) floor.

teejk – what type of magnets would you use, is there something sold with magnets in a frame/holder that is attached to the door, or do I just set magnets into a drilled hole? Some type of steel plating on the mating side? Thanks for any explanation you can provide

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#16 posted 10-04-2012 06:20 PM

Bill – I don’t like moldings like that, that hang over one door. I have one in an armoire I made and I am continually knocking the lip with the other door. I find it a nuisance, plus it would look strange in my design. But thanks!

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1437 days


#17 posted 10-04-2012 06:54 PM

the magnets are 2 piece “flush” mounts…1/2 sits on the inside of the door, the other half mounted to the face frame or box. IMHO they look like crap but they are cheap and have been used forever.

I buy most of my stuff from cshardware.com and have been very happy so far. They frequently do free shipping offers.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3211 posts in 1428 days


#18 posted 10-04-2012 07:12 PM

Is the door thick enough for the closer you chose on your post above? If it is thick enough then use it. I think door thickness or lack of will be the enemy here.

View willoworks's profile

willoworks

41 posts in 1304 days


#19 posted 10-04-2012 08:25 PM

Take a look at screen door hardware – it should fit the thinner doors.

-- Turning A Round

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1437 days


#20 posted 10-04-2012 09:45 PM

7/8ths is thicker than standard 3/4! just sayin…

View kizerpea's profile

kizerpea

746 posts in 1120 days


#21 posted 10-06-2012 11:47 AM

yes the 35 mm euro hinge will work…is this a cabniet door? send us a pic so we can see what u are doing..that way we can surely help you…how big is the doors..

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.

View Wdwerker's profile

Wdwerker

333 posts in 986 days


#22 posted 10-06-2012 12:16 PM

Take a look at K& J magnetics website. They have all shapes and sizes of magnets. Many have a countersunk hole for a screw. If you get a a north/ south pole pair it increases the strength of the attraction. The stronger the attraction the bigger gap possible. The round ones can be set in a hole easily any you can shim them with a washer underneath.
If just the top of the 2nd door is bolted put a pair of magnets at the bottom and middle , no astragal strip needed.
A first glimpse 2 pair of RA22CS-P magnets should work just need to accurately drill a pair of matching holes.
Hang the doors, shim, plane etc then draw a line across both doors and carefully drill the holes in the edges of each door.. The magnets can even be shimmed to slightly protrude from the edge of the fixed door to reduce the gap and increase the pull force or set deeper to reduce the pull.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#23 posted 10-06-2012 01:52 PM

Thanks for the help, I will look into the magnets!

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View MNgary's profile

MNgary

236 posts in 1170 days


#24 posted 10-06-2012 04:03 PM

Below is what I used on the french doors to our dining room. Cost around $8 in brass from handlesets.com

-- I dream of the world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

578 posts in 1787 days


#25 posted 10-06-2012 06:40 PM

That looks good, too, MNgary. Similar to what I originally posted but perhaps better for doors that don’t meet perfectly tightly. I will have to see if they come narrow enough for my application, thanks!

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

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