LumberJocks

All Replies on Finishing a Cherry Bad

  • Advertise with us
View OldTimeShopSmith's profile

Finishing a Cherry Bad

by OldTimeShopSmith
posted 10-03-2012 08:45 PM


21 replies so far

View derosa's profile

derosa

1556 posts in 1532 days


#1 posted 10-03-2012 08:50 PM

I used danish on my crib, other then the teeth marks its held up so far, it is about to get a second round so I’ll see how that goes. Before the next kid goes in I’ll add another coat or two; doesn’t seem to need it but refreshing can’t hurt.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Kookaburra's profile

Kookaburra

748 posts in 920 days


#2 posted 10-03-2012 08:56 PM

I was drawn in by your title “Finishing a Cherry Bad” – I thought I was in for a horror story.

Like derosa, I have used Danish oil on my cherry pieces and it holds up fine. But nothing I have done in cherry gets the hard use that a bed does.

-- Kay - Just a girl who loves wood.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1477 posts in 1057 days


#3 posted 10-03-2012 11:30 PM

For a brush-on, try waterborne poly. The best would be a sprayed solvent lacquer. Oil finishes are for those who don’t value their work and too lazy to learn. Even a wipe-on oil poly would be better.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4885 posts in 1319 days


#4 posted 10-03-2012 11:39 PM

Strong words there Clint.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View derosa's profile

derosa

1556 posts in 1532 days


#5 posted 10-04-2012 12:50 AM

That is pretty harsh Clint. I’ve done poly, varnish, paint and shellac on a number of projects; at the end of the day I happen to like danish oil and BLO on certain projects and think it can be nicer. I could do another finish over the oil on the crib when I modify it to make it a non drop side but I don’t think any of them would look as good. Finish should be based on style, desired look and intended use and you shouldn’t belittle another person’s choice.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Willardz's profile

Willardz

56 posts in 1006 days


#6 posted 10-04-2012 01:15 AM

Danish oil is one of my favorites. Like it better than the plastic look.

-- I have Carrie, food, shelter, and wood to turn. What else do I need? http://www.willardwoodworking.com

View OldTimeShopSmith's profile

OldTimeShopSmith

13 posts in 946 days


#7 posted 10-04-2012 01:31 AM

Thanks for all of the information. How many coats of Danish oil should be used and how would you suggest preparing between coats?

-- Scott, Illinois

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3806 posts in 2064 days


#8 posted 10-04-2012 01:53 AM

I use lacquer, oil, and poly but when I poly I use satin. I don’t like the plastic look either and the satin fills that requirement. I apply the the poly with combed sheepskin pads which gives me a lot of control. For lacquer I use a rattle can and for oil I use clean room, lint free, cotton rags.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View EPJartisan's profile

EPJartisan

1079 posts in 1821 days


#9 posted 10-04-2012 03:52 AM

My finish for Cherry is to scrape smooth, sand to 600.. drench the surface with Danish oil.. wait… as the oil sinks in it will go dull… put more on.. wait.. put more on.. wait… put more on.. wait… until the oil stops soaking in… wipe it dry… Let cure for 48 hours… sand to 1,000, polish with steel wool until it shines… soak with oil… put more on.. wait.. put more on…wipe it dry… let cure over night… a few coats of wipe on Poly. Though what I use on Cherry trim is a Naptha/oil/beeswax finish… makes it very soft to touch.. it vibrates in color and darkens nicely.

The truth is.. people who like oil.. just like the way it works with wood.
I guess one can sand to 320 and varnish…it’s like a tiny fraction of the time, but it looks like it was.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

View Jacob's profile

Jacob

85 posts in 1338 days


#10 posted 10-04-2012 04:11 AM

ouch clint, I suppose woodworker didnt start valuing their work until the invention of polymers and plastics. What about woodworkers who send their work out to get finished due to space and permit restrictions related to spray booths??

I quite like oils, danish is a simple and good one. Oils age handsomely compared to some more modern finishes and can be rejuvenated with less work. Im not a genius finished so perhaps thats why I like the oil, but I like my first few coats are applied generously and with rag and wiped off with a clean one. Then I like to apply a few coats with a soaked piece of steel wool.

Cherry also looks nicely with Tung Oil, which I apply similarly.

-- -Jacob Turetsky, Industrial Designer

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3806 posts in 2064 days


#11 posted 10-04-2012 04:40 AM

Thanks Jacob, I forget tung oil!

I have always liked the natural look of tung oil and used it on a lot of small projects.

For a long time I used the Homer Formy’s tung oil but for some reason none of the retailers here carry that product and I have been forced to switch brands which IMO are not as good!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View BigYin's profile

BigYin

238 posts in 1112 days


#12 posted 10-04-2012 04:40 AM

Danish oil has lasted 15 years on our mahogany kingsize, gets recoated every 2nd year to freshen it up and protect the wood.

The lemon oil treated bed in the spare room is recoated each year. (lemon oil hasnt any drying agents)

The old saying for oil finishes was once a day for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for life

-- ... Never Apologise For Being Right ...

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1144 posts in 2566 days


#13 posted 10-04-2012 11:44 AM

use either some Waterlox or Arm R Seal, do about 4 coats, hand wiped, and check it in about 20 years, you will be good to go, Oils are excellent finishes, ,just depends on the oil !

View EPJartisan's profile

EPJartisan

1079 posts in 1821 days


#14 posted 10-04-2012 12:52 PM

in my opinion, Tung oil has too much of an orange tone… which is why I like Watco Danish… clean, tined to the wood type (or not at all) and cures nicely… a reliable product.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

View huff's profile

huff

2805 posts in 1981 days


#15 posted 10-04-2012 01:42 PM

Scott,

KISS!..........keep it simple scott. Since this is your first piece of furniture that you are finishing, I would suggest using something that is pretty easy to work with and not screw up. As recommended above, your oil finish is a pretty good way to go. Wipe on, Wipe off excess, let dry, repeat untill desired look. I don’t know the details of your bed, but it’s a lot of surface to work with and if you have a lot of crooks and crannys to deal with, then a brush on finish or spraying an even coat gets a little more difficult. As far as durablity goes, I wouldn’t think you need a poly finish or anything like that. Surrounded with pillows, blankets, comforters, sheets and a mattress, not sure how much protection you need. (just kidding).

Every finish has it’s pros and cons and the more finishing you do, the more you will probably find one product that you like as far as ease of use, the look, the feel, ease of repair and durability. My finishing techniques and products have changed over the years based on many factors, as I’m sure yours will.

Good luck and hope you will post some pictures when it’s finished.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View HalDougherty's profile

HalDougherty

1820 posts in 1933 days


#16 posted 10-04-2012 02:18 PM

If a hand rubbed oil finish was good enough for Sam Maloof, I guess I’ll just be lazy and keep using it. After I sand a project to 220 grit I start wet sanding each coat with a 50-50 mixture of pure tung oil and mineral spirits. I wetsand each grit till I get to 600 grit and from that point, I rub in each coat of oil with extra fine stainless steel wool till all the pores in the wood are flush and the pinholes (especially in walnut) are flush with the surface. Then I mix my dilute tung oil in a 50-50 mixture with external spar varnish and I rub in 5 coats (one coat a day) with extra fine stainless steel wool. The last 4 or 5 coats I rub in with my finger tips and keep rubbing till the surface is warm and the oil finish is almost dry. I get a beautiful finish on walnut, maple and cherry. The first few coats of oil use several ounces of oil, but after that it only takes a few drops of oil mixture for each coat. And when I’m satisfied with my finish, I buff it with cotton buffing wheels and polishing compound. I made a modified shaft that holds 3 wheels and mount it in my lathe to use for polishing my projects.

-- Hal, Tennessee http://www.first285.com

View Gshepherd's profile

Gshepherd

1554 posts in 897 days


#17 posted 10-05-2012 06:07 AM

Well I am kinda lazy sometimes myself, that is why I spend hours oiling, sanding,oiling, sanding,oiling,sanding,oiling,sanding on some of my projects vs the hard way of sanding and spraying a few coats every few hrs and calling it quits. There are numberous ways to finish and even the lazy ways for those of us who do not care about our work which I am guilty of sometimes cause I do love the color and depth that oil finishes can provide. I sometimes get lazy and I am proud of it…..

-- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........

View OldTimeShopSmith's profile

OldTimeShopSmith

13 posts in 946 days


#18 posted 10-06-2012 03:08 PM

I am ready for the finish, but now I have a question about blotch control. Can anyone tell me if Charles Neil’s Pre-Color Conditioner can or should be used before the danish oil to stop the blotching?

-- Scott, Illinois

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4885 posts in 1319 days


#19 posted 10-06-2012 03:24 PM

Good question Scott. Minimizing botching in cherry is a technique that I want to learn.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View OldTimeShopSmith's profile

OldTimeShopSmith

13 posts in 946 days


#20 posted 10-21-2012 11:28 PM

Well the project is done and I am happy to say everyone is very happy with the way it turned out. My only problem is now everyone wants one. I have included a picture of the finished project.

Thanks for all of the input.

-- Scott, Illinois

View patrad's profile

patrad

45 posts in 1007 days


#21 posted 10-22-2012 03:37 PM

Looks great, what did you go with?

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase