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View Murdock's profile

Save me from a foolish mistake with Canola Oil

by Murdock
posted 09-28-2012 11:14 PM


20 replies so far

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6938 posts in 1566 days


#1 posted 09-28-2012 11:25 PM

Lacking in knowledge on the matter, I would probably coat the entire piece with canola oil, wipe off, let dry, and then continue with your original plan for finishing.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2545 days


#2 posted 09-28-2012 11:26 PM

acetone might help, albeit very explosive but it will dissipate the oil with multiple applications

Years ago I did the same thing, and the marks are still there today but I didnt use acetone/alcohol/naptha

You might be best to remove affected parts

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2904 posts in 1139 days


#3 posted 09-28-2012 11:33 PM

Rape seed oil, (Canola), will go rancid over time, but if you wiped it up quickly and inundate the surface with mineral oil, then use your Watco finish it should be OK.

What will happen is that the mineral oil should mix with the Canola and dilute it to the point that it’s a non issue.

If not, you can use the old acetone trick to draw the oil out, but with red oak it will probably go on through to the bottom.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6938 posts in 1566 days


#4 posted 09-28-2012 11:40 PM

What these folks are saying is that these solvents will dilute the canola oil, NOT remove it. That said, I would STILL recommend cover ALL, wiping it off, THEN try using the solvents. This way ALL of the project will at least be treated equally and you just MIGHT end up without streaks. NO guarantee, but what is there to lose at this point.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Murdock's profile

Murdock

107 posts in 1136 days


#5 posted 09-28-2012 11:58 PM

Thanks for the suggestions guys

I am inclined to go the route of covering at least the top where the majority of the hit with canola is as HorizontalMike suggests then wipe off and then try the acetone

I guess if it goes bad then I can replace the parts, it is the top and some dripping on a side, I am thinking that the side won’t be too noticeable.

-- "Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new." - Albert Einstein

View crank49's profile

crank49

3421 posts in 1623 days


#6 posted 09-29-2012 01:06 AM

You could seal it with dewaxed shellac, but I don’t know how that would affect your finishing plans.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Greg..the Cajun  Box Sculptor's profile

Greg..the Cajun Box Sculptor

5081 posts in 1960 days


#7 posted 09-29-2012 01:11 AM

I also agree with covering the entire top with canola oil and blend in the stained part.
Canola oil is great for making a roux but never used it for a wood finish before.

-- If retiring is having the time to be able to do what you enjoy then I have always been retired.

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1577 posts in 1943 days


#8 posted 09-29-2012 01:20 AM

You might try “whiting” along with the acetone. It’s sold by gunsmith suppliers, buti t’s nothing but chalk dust. You mix it with the acetone to make a paste and slather it on. The acetone dissolves the oil and the absorbent quality of the chalk helps draw it out.

-- "Sorry I'm late. Somebody tampered with my brakes." "You should have been early, then."

View madts's profile

madts

1261 posts in 992 days


#9 posted 09-29-2012 01:32 AM

I will say any vegetable oil is oil. Just do NOT use engine or transmission oil!

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1450 posts in 1013 days


#10 posted 09-29-2012 02:11 AM

The previous comments have no basis in chemistry or experience. All you need to do is scrub it well with a strong solution of dishwasher detergent and hot water, followed by a hot water rinse. Repeat. After it dries, proceed with your usual finishing schedule.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1577 posts in 1943 days


#11 posted 09-29-2012 02:19 AM

Well, no experience other than that I’ve used whiting & acetone to draw old cosmoline out of wooden rifle stocks, that is.

-- "Sorry I'm late. Somebody tampered with my brakes." "You should have been early, then."

View Deycart's profile

Deycart

384 posts in 910 days


#12 posted 09-29-2012 08:00 AM

After following everyone’s advise I would try to use some japan dryer on it to get the residual oil that you cant get out to harden. Just use a generous amount of it and do it outside!

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1450 posts in 1013 days


#13 posted 09-29-2012 08:50 AM

JJohnston—-You’re wasting money on the acetone when mineral spirits or naptha will work better.

Deycart—-Japan drier will have no effect on an oil that does not polymerize.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3129 posts in 1327 days


#14 posted 09-29-2012 08:37 PM

I agree with H-Mike when he says the solvents will dilute the oil and allow it to go further into the wood. Anyone here ever remove an oil spot off wallpaper? Use talc and let it draw the oil out. I think I would try to dilute it with a solvent and then place the table (oily side down) onto some corn starch that is spread evenely on some newspaper. Let it sit for a day or two then vacuum the corn starch out of the pores of the wood.

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2545 days


#15 posted 09-30-2012 01:46 PM

Certainly no chemist here but I did own an old antique boat where I had to paint the bottom of the hull that was saturated in engine oil. A local boat builder recommended I use acetone (outside ) and I did. I poured acetone on the inside and much to my surprise the oil started dripping from the underside of the hull and pooled on the top so I could remove the oil.

Having said that, …………. it sounds like an easy solution is to start over : ((

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1577 posts in 1943 days


#16 posted 09-30-2012 03:52 PM

Except I can’t stand the smell of mineral spirits (even the “odorless”) and I think I may actually be developing a sensitivity to it – I seem to feel sick for a day or so after I use it.

-- "Sorry I'm late. Somebody tampered with my brakes." "You should have been early, then."

View Danpaddles's profile

Danpaddles

537 posts in 964 days


#17 posted 09-30-2012 04:34 PM

Clint had it right- this ain’t complicated. Soap and water.

-- Dan V. in Indy

View Jamie Speirs's profile (online now)

Jamie Speirs

4137 posts in 1508 days


#18 posted 09-30-2012 05:10 PM

cover the full piece in the oil (as Mike suggested

let it dry and wash with turpentine the carry on.

jamie

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View Murdock's profile

Murdock

107 posts in 1136 days


#19 posted 10-02-2012 12:19 AM

I ended up covering everything on the top with the oil, wiping off, then acetone. Don’t really know how to tell for sure it got the oil out as it doesn’t really look that much different, I guess it had sort of a ‘wet’ look to it that it doesn’t really have anymore so the surface is cleaner for sure.

I let it dry overnight then sanded and finished… Looks ok so far, I guess time will tell if it is going to become rancid.

-- "Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new." - Albert Einstein

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6938 posts in 1566 days


#20 posted 10-02-2012 12:23 AM

I don’t think you will have any rancid issues. I just hope that the entire piece blends away any distracting blotches. Keep us posted.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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