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View Dan's profile

Help post powder beetles in workbench

by Dan
posted 756 days ago


16 replies so far

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10557 posts in 1288 days


#1 posted 756 days ago

You will likely get a lot of responses to this query. I had this problem in a walnut chair I had sold. I tried several things that didn’t work and finally just threw a tarp over it and set one of those Raid bombs off under it. I then left it covered for a week. That has been several months ago, and I have seen no further signs of activity. Good luck and let us know how it comes out. I will definately use my method again as it appears to have worked. As a side note, the bomb did not harm the finish at all which suprised me.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Dan's profile

Dan

89 posts in 1424 days


#2 posted 756 days ago

Thanks for the reply. Maybe I can just fumigate the entire garage. Should I be worried about damaging my tools or wood?

-- Will work for wood...

View Scsmith42's profile

Scsmith42

125 posts in 1275 days


#3 posted 756 days ago

Dan, sterilization of wood is typically done with heat. Your best bet would be to build a box around your bench with celotex or equivalent foam board, and put a space heater inside (and below) on a thermostat. You want to get the core of the bench up to 133F or higher for at least 30 minutes. In order for the core to reach this temp, you will probably need to get the external surface of the slab up to 145 for 18 hours or so.

-- Scott, North Carolina, www.quartersawnoak.com

View Joseph Jossem's profile

Joseph Jossem

344 posts in 866 days


#4 posted 755 days ago

the bayer poison at homedepot works but you have to get it in the holes or laquer thinner
freezing and heat also work but hard to do with that size

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3831 posts in 926 days


#5 posted 755 days ago

133F or higher for at least 30 minutes

that requirement is specifically to kill pine wood nematode….though I bet it probably kills a lot of other things as well.

I’m pretty sure there are fumigation standards to do the same thing…. but I have no experience with those processes.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1447 posts in 1112 days


#6 posted 755 days ago

Have done the tarp and bomb thing myself. It works, but I think I would also feel free to do the whole shop with multiple bombs at once. Never saw any damage with finishes on wood, but might want to coat your machined surfaces with wax before bombing.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View Dan's profile

Dan

89 posts in 1424 days


#7 posted 755 days ago

Thank you all for your responses. If the bug bombs work it seams like the most plausible solution. Also might get some of those spiders that are hiding somewhere. Is there a specific type that I need to purchase? The garage is an oversized 2 car garage so I also need to figure out how many I might need. I can run by the hardware store today to take a look.

-- Will work for wood...

View KenBry's profile

KenBry

449 posts in 1045 days


#8 posted 755 days ago

Just remember that Bug bombs are FLAMABLE and the area you bomb will become highly flamable. There was a real good episode on Mythbusters. They of course had to go overboard and try to burn a house down with like 100 bug bombs. LOL..

-- Ken, USAF MSgt, Ret.

View Dan's profile

Dan

89 posts in 1424 days


#9 posted 755 days ago

As long as I’m not running any open flames it should be ok right? After they are done I shouldn’t have to worry about open flames or am I missing something?

-- Will work for wood...

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10557 posts in 1288 days


#10 posted 755 days ago

I’ve set em off in my shop and saw no aftereffects to the cast iron tables. The can will have recommendations for how many square feet per can.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1649 days


#11 posted 755 days ago

Dan,

Google Boracare. It’s a borate wood treatment. Home dopey has it so lowes and walmart probably do too. It works best in this situation, won’t stink up the place and won’t burn the house down.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View jmos's profile

jmos

681 posts in 968 days


#12 posted 755 days ago

There’s a blog post on FWW about a pro who had 500bf of lumber stuck in an industrial deep freeze for three weeks to kill a beetle infestation. The charged him $100. Perhaps not terribly practical for you, but I thought I’d throw it out there as another option.

-- John

View Lazy_K's profile

Lazy_K

50 posts in 788 days


#13 posted 755 days ago

hi; you can fume all you want to kill what you have right now, but your root problem is that your wood and your shop are too damp, when the wood is dry the powder post beetle cannot survive, try more heat in winter and a dehumidifier in the summer keep it dry and you will not have beetles.

-- Kai SaerPren

View Dan's profile

Dan

89 posts in 1424 days


#14 posted 755 days ago

Thank you all for the input. I am going with a two pronged approach. I am going to fumigate and then spray. My shop is in my garage and I constantly have moisture issues. I am looking to move to a location with a stand alone shop that I can better control. I might have to get a dehumidifier in the meantime but need to find a way to keep it draining constantly.

-- Will work for wood...

View Snipes's profile

Snipes

15 posts in 843 days


#15 posted 754 days ago

My understanding is the larvae are in the wood and killing the bugs is only part of the solution. You must heat treat to 140 degrees for six hours to kill. I would remove it from your shop asap.

-- if it is to be it is up to me

View Scsmith42's profile

Scsmith42

125 posts in 1275 days


#16 posted 754 days ago

“133F or higher for at least 30 minutes

that requirement is specifically to kill pine wood nematode….though I bet it probably kills a lot of other things as well.”

Actually… that specification comes from my “Drying Hardwood Lumber” manual. Here is the specific quote:

“the sterilization procedure, as applied in Canada and the United States, typically requires the center of
all the lumber in a kiln or sterilization chamber to be heated to 133°F (56°°C) for at least 6 h, although shorter times are certainly quite effective.”

Here is the source: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr118.pdf. Read page 88 on sterilization.

Irrespective of the many posts to the contrary, fumigation rarely addresses powderpost beetle problems, because by the time that you see them, they have already hatched. Plus, their eggs are not susceptible to most fumigation methods. I have personal experience in this area.

-- Scott, North Carolina, www.quartersawnoak.com

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