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All Replies on Deal or no deal? Older jet tas-10 3hp saw for $1000

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View georgethegoat's profile

Deal or no deal? Older jet tas-10 3hp saw for $1000

by georgethegoat
posted 818 days ago


23 replies so far

View Jeremy Greiner's profile

Jeremy Greiner

568 posts in 1396 days


#1 posted 818 days ago

First rule of thumb for me, used equipment starts at half the cost of new.
Then you start deducting from there. (there are exceptions, some tools like festool products retain their value very well)

So $1000 to me, is like getting a 1 year old tool.
At the age of that tool, I’d say closer to $600-$700 in really good condition, lower depending on condition.

Just my opinion.

-jeremy

-- Easy to use end grain cutting board designer: http://www.1024studios.com/cuttingboard.html

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5414 posts in 2000 days


#2 posted 818 days ago

$600-$700 would be good for used IMO….maybe a bit more if in really nice shape. I might spend a grand on a used Unisaw or PM66. A new Jet saw includes dealer support and warranty, which don’t apply for a used saw so you shouldn’t reimburse the original owner for those perks. You can buy a pretty comparable saw with a shorter warranty and no dealer support in a Grizzly G1023RL for $1294 shipped, or a G0690 for $1445 shipped. You just have to be your own middle man.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112008 posts in 2201 days


#3 posted 818 days ago

Others might disagree but all of the Jet TS’s Ive used just seem second rate. I think I’d rather have a new Ridgid contractor saw for half the price,Or another brand used cabinet saw like a Powermatic.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View georgethegoat's profile

georgethegoat

17 posts in 2062 days


#4 posted 818 days ago

Jim,

I have the Ridgid 4512. I’m trying to get rid of it because it has a slight high spot in the cast iron and i cannot get the blade to stay in line with the miter slots IMO because of a bad alignment design.

If you have any secrets to improve this saw I’m all ears. I’d love to hang on to it for financial reasons more than anything but I just can’t seem to get the results I’m looking for.

-- george

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11643 posts in 2312 days


#5 posted 818 days ago

It would have to be in like new condition for me to spend a grand on it , no matter what the brand was.
That being said , I own a 3hp JET left-tilt cabinet saw with extension table and built in router table and router lift that I really love for at least 8 years so far…with no problems : )
Depending on your needs , you can spend a lot less and still be a happy camper. I look at Craigslist daily and there is always stuff to be had at good prices.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Loren's profile

Loren

7387 posts in 2272 days


#6 posted 818 days ago

In Los Angeles, no deal.

If the saw includes higher-end accessories like a nice miter
gauge, overarm guard, mobile base, especially fine blades
and dados, that’s something to consider…. but a basic
cabinet saw with a fence, a blade and no riving knife is
not very impressive for a grand. Where’s the guard? What’s
the cost to replace it with an OEM?

I expect there were a lot of plant closures in your region which
will result in circulation of a lot of used heavier-duty saws. Guys
buy them and auction and unload them after awhile of not using
them.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View KEP's profile

KEP

15 posts in 873 days


#7 posted 818 days ago

George

I owned a 3 HP blue Jet cabinet saw for almost 10 years, I sold it about 3 years ago not because I didn’t like it, I just wanted to own a Unisaw.

I always thought the Jet was a quality saw and it served me well. I think I sold it for around $800.00. I did find the blade guard to be labor intensive to install and remove and so it spent most of the time sitting on the shelf.I never thought much about it untill I started using the Unisaw and found the blade guard, riving knife assembly so quick and easy to remove and install (no tools required).The miter gage on the Jet did not fit the slot as tight as I would have wanted so I upgraded to a Incra.

Based on my experience if I were looking for another saw a top priority would be a user friendly blade guard/riving knife.

-- Ken

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112008 posts in 2201 days


#8 posted 818 days ago

George
I wish I had a trick for you on your saw, I guess there are lemons in all brands. I have had a number of students buy Ridgid’s and have had zero problems with them.Don’t through things at me but….Crazy as it sounds you could buy a new Ridgid and if you have problems you could return it.(or what the heck through it at me LOL)

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5414 posts in 2000 days


#9 posted 818 days ago

George – IIRC the Ridgid R4512 comes with a 3 year warranty(?). If yours has the dreaded alignment issue, it should be covered. Not that a 3hp cabinet saw wouldn’t be a nice upgrade, but Jim’s suggestion could work to your advantage if they’ve given you any hassles with fixing your R4512.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Scot's profile

Scot

344 posts in 2020 days


#10 posted 818 days ago

Seems a little steep for an older jet. If you shop around on Craigs list and used equipment resellers you can find newer Unisaws and Powermatics for around the same price.

-- If the old masters had power tools, they would have used them. So get off your damn High Horse.

View Bill7255's profile

Bill7255

143 posts in 909 days


#11 posted 818 days ago

George
I have the Jet CTAS 10 inch table saw. Mine is a 1980 era saw. These are good saws. I have used the Powermatic 66 and in all reality they both cut wood about the same. The blade and the fence system are just as important. I do think $1000 is a bit high. I paid $700 for mine about 5 years ago. It came with a 52 inch Biesemeyer fence and a few accessories including a large outfeed table. I have not had any problems with this saw. My neighbor has the Unisaw and it is a great saw also, but he had problems with motor fan that was somewhat expensive. I would say the Jet would be worth less than a Powermatic or Unisaw, not because of quality, but perception. You would also have a better resale value with these.
The Jet is a good saw, but a $1000?
Bill

-- Bill R

View rustynails's profile

rustynails

457 posts in 1153 days


#12 posted 818 days ago

George, I had one of the blue Jet cabinet saws for about 15 to 18 years and just sold it for $1000.00 about a year ago. It had the 52’’ fence and a shop made out feed table. A guy from a local cabinet shop bought for their shop. It was a very good saw. The only reason I sold it was I wanted a new Unisaw. If you do purchase it I have a Wood Dynamics TS Throat Plate and 12 Inserts that I would sell for a great price for that saw if you are interested in zero clearance at the blade.

Richard

View Arch_E's profile

Arch_E

47 posts in 1146 days


#13 posted 818 days ago

I bought and fixed up a 1980s PM66, putting approximately $900 into the final product (but no motor cover). It works fantastic! But, your need and timing might make your evaluation of this Jet look like a better deal for you.

Arch_E
near NOLA

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5414 posts in 2000 days


#14 posted 818 days ago

Arch_E brings up a good point about “need and timing”. Even though many of us feel that $1000 is a bit steep, most also seem to think it’s a good saw. $600 Unisaws are great when you stumble into them, sometimes at any given time, a $1000 Jet is still the best saw you can buy for $1000.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3870 posts in 953 days


#15 posted 818 days ago

if the price is too high and it’s not a good deal…. it won’t sell and they will lower the price.

from what I’m seeing in the northern New England area…. that saw would not sell at that price.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View toolie's profile

toolie

1737 posts in 1253 days


#16 posted 818 days ago

george…..$1000 for a jet cabinet saw? turn away from the saw and run, do you hear me, run from that overpriced POS. if you have a 4512 you’re not happy with, return it for a new one. if the table is warped, and the store won’t swap it out, return the whole thing and just buy a new one. and check out the ridgid.com forum. there are several threads dealing with alignment issues and suggesting solutions. if you want a better saw than the 4512, and want to go new, consider grizzly or steel city (which can be purchased online through HD). but a jet? for $1000? not a good deal at all. and the newer it is, the less saw it is. and skip powermatic, unless it;s really old. the more recent units are long on promise, short on delivery and expensive, appealing primarlily to ill informed tool snobs.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Dwain's profile

Dwain

323 posts in 2483 days


#17 posted 818 days ago

I’m impressed that toolie knows this is a “POS” sight unseen. (sarcasm implied) I think the rest of his advice is valid. I also agree with KnotScot. How badly do you need the saw? I’m all for upgrading. I got a shop fox with a long table and I couldn’t be happier. I don’t ever see the need to upgrade unless I get the saw stop for a screaming deal (unlikely). You simply need to ask yourself how badly you need the saw. If you need a saw now, go to HD and get a new one for the defective unit you have now. I hear a lot of good things about those saws and expect you won’t get two bad ones. If you still want a bigger saw, at least you can sell your “like new” rigid and get more money toward the upgrade. Keep looking on CL. There is something there, and you will find it. I paid $1,000.00 for my saw and a Rigid 6” jointer over six years ago. Again, I am happy with both.

Good luck, if you keep searching, the right saw will find you.

Dwain

-- When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there is no end to what you CAN'T do

View georgethegoat's profile

georgethegoat

17 posts in 2062 days


#18 posted 818 days ago

Folks,

Thanks for all the wisdom. As for returning the Ridgid and getting a new one I’m kind of at a dead end with that. I bought it from Direct Tools reconditioned with not much for a warranty. I own countless other Ridgid tools and am very happy with them. The reason I bought this was because it was part of a buy 2 get 1 one deal.

So returning it and getting a new one is not an option. I’ve tried to pull a bit of a brand loyalty card with Ridgid customer service, disappointingly to no avail.

I think I’ll see if he’ll part with the saw for somewhere around half what he’s asking. He might know it’s not worth what he’s asking (given the amount of tools in his shop I’d say so) and be willing to move at least down to 6 bills. At that price if I can sell the Ridgid, I’ll be happy with the purchase.

Thanks again for all the advice.

-- george

View toolie's profile

toolie

1737 posts in 1253 days


#19 posted 818 days ago

george..have you seen this technique regarding set up of the 4512:

http://furnitude.blogspot.com/2011/03/blade-alignment-second-attempt-success.html

others at the ridgid forum report using it succesfully. maybe it will save you from chasing that jet and making an expensive mistake.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View georgethegoat's profile

georgethegoat

17 posts in 2062 days


#20 posted 818 days ago

toolie,

that’s the method i used for getting mine into alignment. it works but i find that after a few cuts it shakes out of alignment because of the pressure going against it and the vibration.

-- george

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5342 posts in 2209 days


#21 posted 818 days ago

In my honest opinion it works logically like this.A new tool costs a thousand bucks (for example) that includes sales tax and any other taxes and it also includes warranty these things can be a fair proportion of the new cost.If you ask too much for a used tool then someone will simply add the difference and buy new with full waranty. So right away when you take it out of the store it loses value.I would say about 60 to 70% depending on the condition 70% + a little if almost mint without factory warranty etc.partly used but nice 50% well used 30 % or less. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View toolie's profile

toolie

1737 posts in 1253 days


#22 posted 817 days ago

george, sorry to hear that. i hoped the technique would alleviate the alignment problem. but for < $1000 you could get a nice grizzly hybrid, like the 715P. i would still pass on the jet.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Cato's profile

Cato

641 posts in 1937 days


#23 posted 817 days ago

George hope you find a good saw, either new or used.

Lots of opinions here on what is a good brand and who likes what and who doesn’t.

Like A1 Jim said, unfortunately no matter the brand, the reviews, the opinions, etc occasionally you can get a bad piece from any of them.

Good luck and let us know how it plays out.

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