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View MitchBigglesworth's profile

Need some help in choosing a table saw

by MitchBigglesworth
posted 05-17-2012 06:59 AM


47 replies so far

View repeters's profile

repeters

6 posts in 2061 days


#1 posted 05-17-2012 11:01 AM

I kinda like the Rigid out of the three you picked but I waited myself and found a 3hp 220v single phase 1970’s Unisaw on Craigslist for $300.00 last year. I only upgraded the fence with a 30” Beismeyer and realigned the top to the blade (which you should do even with a “new” unit) and was total out of pocket around $575.00.
5 years ago, I found a 1990’s Craftsman 10” contractors TS on Craigslist for $10.00 with a new 1.5hp motor that the owner installed and wired wrong. Once I redid the wiring, I used it for 5+ years with excellent results.
If your not in a hurry, I would check out the deals on Craigslist, on eBay (local pick ups) and your local paper classifieds.
If you cant wait, then find the one that has the features you want / need in your price range and go for it.
Hope this helps.
Pete

-- Pete B.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5567 posts in 2100 days


#2 posted 05-17-2012 11:17 AM

Mitch – I wouldn’t pay $400 for a used G1022Z (it’d take the G1022ProZ to warrant that much, and even then it’s not a steal), and if you don’t need portability from jobsite to jobsite I’d skip the portables….every mechanical advantage goes to the stationary saws. Of those you listed, that leaves the Ridgid R4512. It’s worth noting that the Craftsman 21833 is essentially the same saw (both made by Dayton). You’ll need to check the alignment closely …some have been defective and deviate when the blade is raised. Get a competitors coupon to help with price if you go this route.

Option #4 is a great option if the right deal comes along, and if you have 220v available (or can get it). It never hurts to patiently watch CL…be ready to move quickly. If you’d post your general geographic region, other members might know of a deal for you.

Whatever saw you get, align it well, and put a good blade on it.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View gillyd's profile (online now)

gillyd

136 posts in 1370 days


#3 posted 05-17-2012 11:43 AM

Out of that list you have I’d lean #4 (you’ve been around tools, you probably understand parts, and know what to look for), and if #4 wasn’t on the list I’d go #3 – I’ve seen this saw in person and I liked it, one drawback is fence system (rails are 2 pieces).

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1352 days


#4 posted 05-17-2012 03:44 PM

one vote here for waiting for a better CL deal. lots out there for good prices, if you’re patient (and a lot of overpriced junk). if you can get a good new 4512 (no blade parallelism problems as the blade is raised and lowered), and can find a HD that honors the harbor freight “20% off any single item” coupon, you are out the door with a new hybrid table saw for $400 plus tax that can be registered with ridgid’s LSA (lifetime service agreement – free repairs, parts and labor, for life. check here for details: http://www.ridgid.com/tools/power-tool-warranty ). the ridgid is the same as the c-man 21833, but it usually costs $50 more and doesn’t qualify for the ridigd LSA.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Jeremy Greiner's profile

Jeremy Greiner

568 posts in 1496 days


#5 posted 05-17-2012 04:00 PM

I agree with Toolie, I’d drive around and find a HD that takes the harbor freight 20% off single item coupon well worth the savings. The ridged has a lot of good reviews, and the lifetime service make it the best value. If you can get a used unisaw for $400 sure that’s great (and it does happen) but it’s rare, and you could end up waiting 6 months to a year to find a great deal like that.

A lot of it depends on the immediate need, and willingness to wait, since it has become a burden to not have a tablesaw I think going with the ridgid is your best bet.

-jeremy

-- Easy to use end grain cutting board designer: http://www.1024studios.com/cuttingboard.html

View Dusty123's profile

Dusty123

29 posts in 925 days


#6 posted 05-17-2012 04:18 PM

Look for used 3HP table saws on crags list. Most of the saws are basically the same. ( I could get a lot of flack saying that) Make sure the motor has good power. Where the big difference is, is the fence. Buy a good used saw, with a great fence.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5201 posts in 1301 days


#7 posted 05-17-2012 04:32 PM

http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/packages-plunge-cut-saws/c/1084/

One should also consider Festool. Spendy, but resale holds an incredible value, whereas, secondary markets for used generic machines don’t.

One can use big box vacs to use on festool plunge saws when funds are limited.

Good luck.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15714 posts in 2942 days


#8 posted 05-17-2012 04:51 PM

I would take the Ridgid out of those three, hands down. It’s a much heavier saw, with a larger, cast-iron table. I started off with a smaller saw, and the size and stability of a full-sized saw with a full-sized top make a big difference in my book.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4351 posts in 1772 days


#9 posted 05-17-2012 05:21 PM

Rigid is the only one to offer lifetime warranty.
I have a Rigid ( R4511) and I am very happy with it

-- Bert

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4351 posts in 1772 days


#10 posted 05-17-2012 05:22 PM

‘I’d drive around and find a HD that takes the harbor freight 20% off single item coupon well worth the savings.”
I never found a HD accepting this coupons

-- Bert

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1352 days


#11 posted 05-17-2012 08:33 PM

b2rtch….just a point of clarification. ridgid does NOT offer a lifetime warranty on it’s stationary and hand held power tools. it does offer a Lifetime Servce Agreement to the original owners of those tools, PROVIDED the tool owner takes the time to register the tool for the agreement. please see the link i provided above. failure to register the tool for the LSA within 90 days of purchase leaves the tool with it’s 3 year new tool guaranty, and nothing else. hopefully, you registered your 4511 for the LSA within that 90 days of purchase period, assuming you were the saw’s original owner.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View a1Jim's profile (online now)

a1Jim

112545 posts in 2301 days


#12 posted 05-17-2012 08:37 PM

Welcome to Ljs
Out of the three listed I would go with the Ridgid.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2963 posts in 1011 days


#13 posted 05-17-2012 08:44 PM

I have the Ridgid and have had no problems with alignment. Forget using the HF coupon at HD, you’ll get someone in trouble if they take it.

Look at the box carefully and open it there to insure it hasn’t been dropped or handled rough and you should have a dynamite saw my friend. The fence is solid as a rock too.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Moron's profile

Moron

4708 posts in 2617 days


#14 posted 05-17-2012 08:50 PM

Ditto on the Ridgid

Having said that, I have been to many auctions where almost mint condition cabinet saws with names like General, Delta, Rockwell, with new Beismeyer fences sell for less then 200 bucks ……some even came with a small arsenal of tooling.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View Durnik150's profile

Durnik150

647 posts in 2046 days


#15 posted 05-17-2012 08:51 PM

Of the three you listed I would also go for the Ridgid. I own the 4511 Ridgid and have been extremely happy with it and have had it for about 3 years.

-- Behind the Bark is a lot of Heartwood----Charles, Centennial, CO

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2963 posts in 1011 days


#16 posted 05-17-2012 08:58 PM

Also, be sure you have help taking it out of the box, It’s very heavy and they put the table in upside-down and it’s locked into styrofoam which makes it almost impossible to remove alone. Keep the box.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1311 posts in 1533 days


#17 posted 05-17-2012 09:15 PM

If your limiting your selection to the three listed I would have to vote for the Rigid but why not look for an older delta (or similar) cont. saw. Lots more saw than those listed. I usually keep at least one around for a job saw. BTW its about 37 yrs old now and never failed.

View sixstring's profile

sixstring

296 posts in 967 days


#18 posted 05-17-2012 11:47 PM

I almost bought the Ridgid myself when I saw it on sale. What you reallly want is a 3hp cabinet saw or hybrid that has cast iron tops, or granite like the older Ridgid. Heavy is the key word as it helps keep things stable and even quieter. Those contractor saws, when used in a garage, are crazy loud and higher pitched which makes the noise even more annoying. Jets, Grizzlys and Deltas pop up on Craigslist all the time so keep a sharp eye out.

Granted, if you only use the thing once in a while, it’s liveable. I used a Ryobit BT10 for over 6 years with no major hangups. Had I replaced the fence system, it would have been even better.

-- JC Garcia, Concord, CA : "It's easier to ask forgiveness than permission..."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5567 posts in 2100 days


#19 posted 05-18-2012 12:50 AM

”Those contractor saws, when used in a garage, are crazy loud and higher pitched which makes the noise even more annoying. ”

sixstring – I suspect that what you’re calling a “contractor saw” is what most of the industry calls a portable jobsite saw, including Ridgid. The Ridgid R4512 is a full size saw with a cast iron top and belt drive induction motor…Ridgid markets it as a contractor saw, but some would even consider it a hybrid because the motor is housed inside the enclosure. Ridgid portable jobsite saws with direct drive universal motors that are definitely loud, are the R4510 and R4516, which are in a similar class as the DW and Bosch that others have mentioned.

Mr. Bigglesworth – Are you still with us?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View crank49's profile

crank49

3481 posts in 1695 days


#20 posted 05-18-2012 01:13 AM

Ignore any recomendation that says “I’d go for the Ridgid. I have a 4511 and love it.”
Of course they do. The 4511 was a hell of a nice saw. Cabinet mounted trunions and all.
The 4512 is a POS. I have the Craftsman 21833, which is the identical same saw with red and silver paint. I feel like I got ripped a new one. And I only paid $409 for it two years ago. I hate this piece of crap. When I have any really critical cuts to make I break out the Skil saw and a good guide.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4351 posts in 1772 days


#21 posted 05-18-2012 11:43 AM

toolie, of course I did , only a fool would not do it.
I have four Rigid tools all registered.
I am extremely diligent in all these things, not perfect but extremely rarely negligent.

-- Bert

View Mike's profile

Mike

306 posts in 1411 days


#22 posted 05-18-2012 11:53 AM

Ridgid – never had a problem with a single one of their tools.

-- look Ma! I still got all eleven of my fingers! - http://www.termitecrafts.com

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4351 posts in 1772 days


#23 posted 05-18-2012 12:30 PM

Mike, I agree.
I have four Rigid tools and I love them.
With HF tools they are the best bang for the buck.

-- Bert

View 69BBNova's profile

69BBNova

338 posts in 940 days


#24 posted 05-18-2012 09:09 PM

I’m not familar with the Grizzly or Rigid…

Having said that, I own that model Dewalt and it is a fine saw for what it is…

BUT…

If space is not a problem, or if you feel you don’t have need for one you can carry, there are far better choices than the Dewalt.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1352 days


#25 posted 05-18-2012 10:01 PM

b2rtch…good. i wanted to clear up the lifetime warranty vs. LSA issue because, having spent a fair amount of time on the ridgid forum, many owners think they have a lifetime warranty and fail to register their tools for the LSA. then they need service, find they aren’t covered by the LSA for failure to reigister, and they express their displeasure at length and rather vociferously. follow the rules and the programs usually work.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View woodworker59's profile

woodworker59

560 posts in 925 days


#26 posted 05-19-2012 09:35 PM

I have a Rigid, but its the older 3650 made by Emerson, I have to say I love it,, its got plenty of nut and is nice and straight.. also as far as I know the Rigid is the only one that comes with the mobile base standard. It moves around nice, step on the plate put it where you want, step on the pedal and its solid.. Can’t speak for the new ones but like mine alot.. Got it off Craigslist for $250.00 last year.. before that had an old 1960’s Craftsman. It was good for a while, just got tired and figured would be money better spent to look for newer than to fix the old gal. Good luck with your search..

-- Papa@papaswoodworking.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5567 posts in 2100 days


#27 posted 05-19-2012 11:10 PM

Just to clarify, the Ridgid TS3650 is made by TTI/Ryobi….Emerson still owns the brand, but contracted with TTI to manufacture it in Asia. Prior to the 3650, Emerson had manufactured the Ridgid TS2412, TS2424, and TS3612, along with several variations of the Craftsman contractor saw. All are the same basic saw with different bolt on stuff.

It’d be nice to hear from the OP in this thread….lets us know you’re at least still out there.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View woodworker59's profile

woodworker59

560 posts in 925 days


#28 posted 05-20-2012 06:00 PM

Knottscott—thanks for the info, wasn’t aware that Emerson had handed off the build to TTI.. Still like the saw..
its a cutter for sure..

-- Papa@papaswoodworking.com

View 47phord's profile

47phord

175 posts in 961 days


#29 posted 05-20-2012 11:51 PM

I have the Craftsman 21833 (the rigid’s cousin) and while I do suffer from the blade alignment issue, it’s not so bad that I can’t work around it; I’ve heard rumors that’s been resolved though nothing concrete. I use thin-kerf blades whenever possible and I recently upgraded to an Osborne mitre gauge (the stock one is a POS) and I love it. It has plenty of power, and as long as you are careful to set it up properly, it’s dead accurate. It has served me well for almost 3 years now. My two cents, hope it helps!

View MitchBiggs's profile

MitchBiggs

3 posts in 921 days


#30 posted 05-21-2012 11:59 AM

Hello all! OP here. I’ve been having a terribly difficult time with the LJ interface; basically I was unable to post anything, so I could not get back in touch after I started the thread. Problem was sort of solved by creating a new profile. If I can get the original profile fixed, I will use it.

So….....Thank you to ALL members that commented and provided feedback. Some great information was provided.

I ended up going for option #4, and I purchased a saw from Craigslist since I started the thread. I ended up buying this vintage Craftsman saw for $75. See pics. The Seller included a mobile base and a zero-clearance insert in the deal. Model #113.27520.

This saw is STURDY. It belonged to the seller’s grandfather. He purchased in new in the 1950’s. It has been in their family ever since. The seller used the saw as his primary saw, until he purchased a new saw recently. It’s wired for 220, and I just got my shop wired up yesterday. I have not fired up the saw yet, since I need to recruit a friend to help me carry the saw down into my basement shop.

I would love to know whether this was a wise purchase. For $75, I was willing to give it a shot. I have been looking at Craigslist obsessively for a Jet, Grizzly, Delta, etc. There hasn’t been anything in my area for a while that was priced fairly.

Thanks again for all the great advice.

-Mitch

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5567 posts in 2100 days


#31 posted 05-21-2012 12:10 PM

Hey, welcome back! ;-)

An older friend of mine has the same saw….it was a wedding gift from his wife in 1955. I think you did really well for $75. These saws have a lot of character and it should polish up really well. Heck, a motor that runs is worth about that. It looks to be in decent shape too, which is always a big plus. You might find the fence to be a little lacking, but give it a try and see what you think…..that saw might be a good candidate for something like a Delta T2 for $153 shipped from Tools-plus.com. If you get ambitious, you could always repaint some parts to make it look nearly new, but the important thing is to cover it with saw dust! At the very least, get it lined up really well, and pickup a decent blade for it. Have fun!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MitchBiggs's profile

MitchBiggs

3 posts in 921 days


#32 posted 05-21-2012 12:21 PM

Thanks for the encouragement, knotscott! I could tell that the seller took good care of it – his shop and his tools were immaculate. He put some money into the saw too – he bought an extension wing for the one side, and then he had someone machine an extension to the fence rail to fit on the wing. He also had fairly new blade on it.

I am excited to get it going. I actually have another vintage motor (Century 2HP) that I could throw on this saw if necessary.

Do you have any tips on how to polish up this saw (what to use, how to do it, etc)?

Many thanks!
-Mitch

View Mike's profile

Mike

60 posts in 934 days


#33 posted 05-21-2012 12:36 PM

I know it’s not on your list but, have a look at the Porter Cable 270. I recently posted my review of this saw after buying it a little while ago. It’s a really nice saw and just a tad over the price of what you’re looking at. Worth a look anyways.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5567 posts in 2100 days


#34 posted 05-21-2012 12:49 PM

Mineral spirits and a scotchbrite pad under a palm sander should do nicely to clean up the top….steel wool or very fine sandpaper will work well too. I’d spray the painted surfaces with a spray cleaner and wipe them down good. For any painted surfaces that you want to refinish (like the motor and the stand), hit the loose paint and rust spots with a stiff wire brush, tape off anything you don’t want paint on (like the motor plate), and hit them with a coat or two of spray paint. It really doesn’t take too much effort, very little cost, and the results can be pretty impressive.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1352 days


#35 posted 05-22-2012 06:59 PM

great buy. it’s an emerson electric, made in the usa, saw and that motor is a true 1hp (that motor probably weighs 40 lbs all by itself). i have the same saw sitting in my brother’s house as i wait for a better fence system at a cost more reasonable than the t-2 . i already have 2 simiilar functioning saws in my shop now, so the extra (sitting @ my brother’s house saw) is either going to a family member or will be sold. i would second knotscott’s suggestion about the t-2. i have one on a 70s vintage emerson built c-man and it works very well:

a little effort spent aligning everything properly will be time well spent. here is a video on my c-man with the t-2 undergoing a nickel test (note the nickel to the right of the fence ):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTS7pfhfsU

(and yes, i know i shouldn’t have released the workpiece with the saw operating, but that’s how well i know my saw and how dialed in it is)

your 27520 saw will perform like this if properly set up. when it comes to those older emerson built TSs, the older they are, the better they can be. good luck with it and enjoy it.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View 69BBNova's profile

69BBNova

338 posts in 940 days


#36 posted 05-23-2012 03:29 AM

I’m not sure but that Craftsman table saw you picked up looks exactly like the one I had after my Grandfather passed on in ‘71…

Is there a red dimpled button on the end of the motor? I seem to remember it discharged the capacitor or something (cant exactly remember).

I actually use to carry the Damm thing out of the basement by myself to use it, because I remember doing that sucked.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1393 posts in 1229 days


#37 posted 05-23-2012 03:30 AM

Mitch….wicked sweet saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

View MitchBiggs's profile

MitchBiggs

3 posts in 921 days


#38 posted 05-23-2012 10:37 AM

Yes, there is a red button on the end of the motor. Wasn’t sure what it was for. Must be the same saw.

View MitchBigglesworth's profile

MitchBigglesworth

14 posts in 926 days


#39 posted 05-23-2012 11:45 AM

I finally fired up the saw yesterday. I had some help moving it into my basement, and I got the 220v circuit finished. First impression – there is a lot of vibration. I suspect either the belt or the connection at the motor as contributing to this. Any thoughts?

The belt is looking pretty worn. Manual calls for a 43” x 1/2” v belt. Should I replace it?

If so, any recommendations for a belt?

With regard to the motor tension. The manual says, “Motor should be allowed to rest or hang against the belt to obtain the automatic belt tightening feature. . . ” The photo shows the wingnut installed that regulates how much of the motor weight is applied to the belt. Any advice on getting this tuned in?

I am a novice, so your advice is much appreciated!

-Mitch

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

6686 posts in 2704 days


#40 posted 05-23-2012 11:53 AM

I would go with option # 4.

There is a huge difference in using a cabinet saw, compared to these others

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2847 posts in 972 days


#41 posted 05-23-2012 12:32 PM

Another vote for the Ridgid. I just went that route and am extremely pleased with my purchase. Yes, there are some good deals on Craigslist for older saws, but be careful. One thing that is often overlooked is safety – even here. I don’t want to start a debate as to weather or not safety features actually work, but I am not at all comfortable using a table saw without a proper splitter that moves with the blade, a riving knife, a decent blade guard and kickback pawls. I have made some cuts where the off cut would have went into the back of the blade (and at my face) if the splitter was not there. Having slightly less power is also a sort of safety feature. If you are doing something the saw doesn’t like, it will likely bog down and refuse. A 3+ HP saw will not and will likely throw the wood back at you with extreme force.

Also you are getting something brand new and don’t have to worry about inheriting other peoples problems. I did months of research before buying this saw. For me it is perfect and something twice the price wouldn’t serve me any better. Maybe one day I will realize I need a 3hp saw, but right now I have had no problems cutting anything – including hard maple, and 8/4 red oak; both ripping, cross cutting and cutting tapers in it.

Take the time to set it up properly (follow the manual AND look for furnituredude’s blog on here for more tips) and it will serve you well.

Also be sure to budget for a better blade or two, a zero clearance insert (26$ at woodcraft/rockler/amazon) and if need be, a dado stack and another throat plate (~150 for a good Freud industrial 8” stack and the insert)

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1393 posts in 1229 days


#42 posted 05-23-2012 12:38 PM

For the motor tension, I tried both. Meaning, I let it run while hanging down “free” and then tried different settings with a bolt on the mount. Depending on the wear of your belt either one could be smoother.

You can take your belt to an autostore and get a replacement, or better yet do a search for a Link belt. A LB can be adjusted in length, and will not have “memory” so your saw will have less vibration.

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

View lumberdog's profile

lumberdog

227 posts in 1991 days


#43 posted 05-23-2012 12:52 PM

I found a grizzley g1022z on ebay for $225.00 with the extended rails and and three blades plus a dado set.
I am very pleased with it, it out performed the crapsman i had by a long shot. so my advise would be to look around for a while, you never know what you will find.

-- Lumberdog.. Michigan

View MitchBigglesworth's profile

MitchBigglesworth

14 posts in 926 days


#44 posted 05-23-2012 12:58 PM

Lumberdog – Thanks for the info. I found the same saw on Craigslist in my area. The guys selling it wants $550 – way too much in my opinion.

http://pennstate.craigslist.org/tls/2974097092.html":http://pennstate.craigslist.org/tls/2974097092.html

If the price was right – I was ready to pull the trigger on it. Enjoy your new saw!

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1352 days


#45 posted 05-23-2012 02:09 PM

mitch…1) replace the belt. if that belt has achieved a “set”, it will add to vibration. if the budget allows, machined pulleys and a link belt would be better. 2) try this technique for tensining the drive belt http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/C67D3E55F4C64E808D10D17D7026F721/TS2412_Table_Saw_Man.pdf ). these are the same saws, just manufactured 40-50 years apart. check out page 25 for the belt tensioning directions. it works well for my ridgid 2412, which is also aen emereson electric saw, just like your c-man.

now that you made the saw look nice, take the time to adjust everything. i think this article from shopnotes is one of the best on the table saw tune up topic:

http://eberhardt.bz/GME_Wood_Land/GME_Woodworking_Stuff/2_Tool_Tune_Ups/8_Tuneup_Tablesaw.pdf

goog luck.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5567 posts in 2100 days


#46 posted 05-23-2012 02:27 PM

$550 is more than it cost new! It does say “OBO”, but a reasonable offer would be more like $200-$250 IMO…

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MitchBigglesworth's profile

MitchBigglesworth

14 posts in 926 days


#47 posted 05-23-2012 02:38 PM

Knotscott – I know. He started at $600 and the saw has been sitting for weeks. I got into a pi$$ing match with the seller over the price. I got him down to $400, and I offered him $350 cash. He is holding out for more, and lost the sale over $50. $350 is too much in my opinion, but the convenience of being able to get it same day and be cutting was worth it to me.

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