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View TraveledSome's profile

New to me G1023 (1989 I think) needs some love.....and I need advice.

by TraveledSome
posted 808 days ago


30 replies so far

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 887 days


#1 posted 808 days ago

I wouldn’t worry too much about the thin, even, layer of oxidation on some of the parts under the table. You can clean them up since you have time, but it’s really not hurting anything.

If you want to get several blades, go on eBay and buy some Onsrud blades. I have a few and usually get them for around $22 to $25 each. They are easily comparable to the blades you spend $100 or $120 for.

I’m not familiar with all of the Grizzly models, but for dust collection, that little trap door is the least of your worries. You need a motor cover. :)

Get an after-market miter gauge. The ones that come with the saw typically aren’t very good.

You can probably get the belts at an automotive store, BUT make sue you tell them you need a MATCHED SET for a multibelt drive. The numbers on the belts will probably give you the information you need as far as what PROFILE you need. The “V” in those v-belts may be a slightly different shape from the “V” in an automotive belt. The slant on the sides of the belt have to match the slant on the pulleys. The fact that I can read the writing on your current belts suggests they may not be all that old. Get the information on what the CORRECT belts are, but I’d move replacing all the belts a little lower on the list of things to do.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#2 posted 808 days ago

A lot of this is subjective, but here are my thoughts:

1. Your current plan looks good and should work, but if you get impatient, switching to fine sandpaper and progressing through finer grits will be faster than a Scotchbrite.

2. Those belts actually look pretty good….it’s possible they’ve been replaced before. Now’s a good time to do it, but you find that you don’t NEED to right away unless they’ve taken a set and thump/vibrate too much.

3. Good.

4. Don’t really know what’s “best”, but I’d likely just use a non-dust attracting lube like your paste wax applied with a tooth brush, or spray on white lithium grease that dries like wax. Adding grease or wet lubes can attract saw dust.

5. A splitter or riving knife is one of the most effective safety devices you can use IMO. I really like my BORK and initially thought it would fit your saw, but after seeing the pic, it might be old enough that I’m no longer positive it well. The pic you showed of the swingarm doesn’t look like it leaves a place to fasten the BORK. My advice is to send the pic to Bob Ross at theborkstore.com, and check with him….I’ve found him to be pretty responsive to questions and input in general (you can link this discussion for him to view the pic, or ask for his email). The MJ Splitter is a less expensive, less elegant alternative, but would require you to make a new insert or two. Others may have insights on other splitters that will fit, and you might even find a stock guard somewhere.

6. Which way to go with saw blades is also subjective, and is really a personal decision. The Infinity Super General that you linked to is the cleanest cutting of the 40T general purpose blades I’ve used to date, but that doesn’t necessarily make it the best overall choice for your needs. The Freud Fusion is the most similar of the blades I’m familiar with, and you might find it for $10 or $20 less, but there are no real big savings there. Using high quality separate dedicated blades will each do a better job of their respective tasks, but require blade changes for each task, and require a separate cash outlay for each blade. The Onsrud blades were a great deal, but the selection has dwindled a lot. Going with something like the Delta 35-7657 for < $30 shipped or the Onsrud 30T Glue Line Ripper should open up funds to add something like a nice 80T fine crosscut/ply Hi-ATB or ATB blade (ie: Infinity 010-080, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10 (this is a pretty nice deal on an 80T Freud LU85 ATB blade @ $58 shipped…normally ~ $90, only 2 available). But as stated, it really depends on what you’ll be cutting.

7. The Incra V27 is one of the best values in good aftermarket miter gauges. You’ll want to buy a crosscut fence for it, or build one from scraps (easy). Adding a motor door will help the dust collection a lot…..buy or build.

You’ve given this a lot of thought, and are definitely on the right track IMO.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#3 posted 807 days ago

(Charlie said, “I’m not familiar with all of the Grizzly models, but for dust collection, that little trap door is the least of your worries. You need a motor cover. :)”)

LOL Yeah well see this is what happens when you have no actual time to touch or caress your saw and instead are just thinking about it while slaving in your cubicle all day…..as soon as I got the e-mail forward of your response, I was like I really am sort of a dolt. I kinda was forgetting about the missing wall I was so preoccupied about the hole in the door so to speak.

Hmm so is this a good idea to make an insert for motor side? This is more my thing:) Computer Case modding I know….!Would there be advers effect though of sealing cabinet? and then using filtration system to pull all air? That likely would include pulling air THROUGH the motor though I’m worried that could be an issue… Is this done?

Also on belts I need to use better camera then Iphone I was hoping it would show but it didn’t. Yes you can see lettering on belts but you can’t see they literally have misisng chunks out of them. They do have to go. Personally I would rather upgrade the belts if possible if they can retain the same performance and not strain motor is there something a bit tougher? I read somehwere cogged belts are better? Are not all the belths “cogged”? Also Ho do I figure out my belt size does not say in G1023 manual I pulled from Grizzly site.

It’s easy to give it lots of thought when thinking about your saw is about all your able to do. Now that I got it I been so busy I can’t even play with it. :(

Keep it coming!!! I am making notes of everything!

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#4 posted 807 days ago

It’s not a bad idea to take a belt with you into an old time automotive or radiator shop. If that’s not feasible, you could always call the Grizzly tech line and ask…they’d like even have some for sale.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#5 posted 807 days ago

Ya know it occurs to me maybe that person who said Mineral Oil…..meant “Mineral Spirits” for cleaning top…...hmm

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#6 posted 807 days ago

”Ya know it occurs to me maybe that person who said Mineral Oil…..meant “Mineral Spirits” for cleaning top……hmm”

....LOL, might as well try butter!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5272 posts in 2186 days


#7 posted 807 days ago

That’s a nice looking saw.Both stable and heavy enough for what you put to it.I personally woluld do what I call (give the saw it’s birthday present) and spend a little cash and make it like new.Those plastic strips for the fence can be bought at least here in the uk from catering suppliers used as cutting boards a while back I have a bit of it but too far away to be of any use to you.Have fun Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View BorkBob's profile

BorkBob

61 posts in 1294 days


#8 posted 806 days ago

knotscott…you should recognize that arbor bracket below the BORK picture. It’s a Craftsman 22114. I don’t know where the pic came from but I took it…lol.

The arbor brackets on the 1023 series saws are very similar to those found on Unisaws.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#9 posted 806 days ago

That pic was from the Bork website seemed to be example of fitting it on? I guess I linked wrong one. I removed it as I think it was an example of how it could not fit on some saws…heh. Sorry for confusion….Anyway finally may get to work on cleaning tomorrow. Cherry Kool-Aid and Vinager I think is my choice…. :D

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#10 posted 800 days ago

The project pushes ahead…...question Which mobile base system do you guys recommend? I know in past the Delta one was mentioned. Is this any better then base system from Grizzly? Are there any others I should look at? I have a cramped garage, I need mobility!!!!

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10419 posts in 1608 days


#11 posted 764 days ago

I just bought the same saw, well put a deposit on it until i can get a truck on Friday … how do you like it so far? Mine looks to be around the same vintage and priced similarly. As far as mobility, id consider buying some castors and building your own base.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#12 posted 646 days ago

(TIME SENSITIVE!)

Okay well, I have to embarrassingly say, that in the last 6 months I have not done much more then when i last posted. I was not wired for 220, as it turns out I need to replace service pannelin house, and main box outside as well….also I have had a heck of a year with work and baby…..but I should be wired up by next week in what is pretty much rewiring my entire house. So I’m off to finish up restoration of saw this weekend. Turns out not all the gunk I still had in saw was saw dust. Apparently previous owner had a colony of dirt dobbers in his shop or the saw was left outside…..either way the trunnions work much better without muddy bug cement over everything…..

The motor rotates very free and spins a bit when I turn it and let go….the arbor turns freely but not as smooth as I would like, and I have decided there’s no better time then now to replace arbor bearings as it just feels like it’s less then what I would like turning. There’s n orough spots or rubbing but it certainly doesn’t keep spinning no matter how hard I spin em…and it may just need cleaning up but…I’m gonna get new bearings…

I am not willing to wait for ordering them however, I’d like to do this, THIS weekend. Plus I don’t really have a bearings puller or press and know I’ll have a really hard time getting to inner bearings. Though saw a neat video that just used rubber mallet, block of wood with hole, and a old copper pipe to slip around and use to hammer wood down on bearing…... I already have the arbor out of saw completely, but I have thus far been unsuccessful at removing the nut on back end to even get to bearings. Having a 1” wrench would help as a cresent just doesn’t work. and I have generous amount of break free working on it now, as I sweated for quite awhile trying to get it off. Any tips on this? Found a how to video for a old delta restoration and this is pretty much identical…..but while he just does a simple twist mine won’t come off for nothing. Any tips?

Also where might I look to get decent bearings and pref a place that could use press on installing on a Saturday? Or am I dreaming? If I have to wait till week and take a long lunch I can, but I really would like to have this baby to go before monday as that is when electricians may be coming.

Also I have the UHMW panel from peachtree, and thoughts on best way to mount? just counter sink and mount on and test for needed shims?

I decided to get that Super General 40T when it was on sale on Amazon, but realized now I got the .97 thin kerf insteadof 125….am I asking for trouble to use this for all purpose? I don’t plan on cutting much of anything thicker then 3-4 inches? It’s too late to return it now, but will having a thin kerf be an issue?

I have no splitter, but plan on buying the MJ Splitter ASAP, I am going to hold off on bork for now, but long term I really think I might prefer it.

So anyway where can I get arbor bearings, and better yet a place that may have a press for installing inner one.

How the heck do I get this end nut off?

Is there a particular bearing to look for as far as make?

Also on my to do list is a motor cover, (any suggestions? or just build one?)

Last I got some amazing results cleaning top of table saw with the citric acid pwder viniger mixture I made….that said I was sort of hurried and while I removed most all the rust I missed a couple of spots, and there was sort of dark areas I left on before I dried and waxed finished with that paste wax…...say I am OCD enough that it bugs me and I want to redo it completely…...what is best way to clean off paste wax and get bax to raw castiron? minieral spirits?

I’ll post more pics soon…...(sigh) I love the smell of breakfree on a Friday night…..

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

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TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#13 posted 646 days ago

Also maybe a stupid question….but can one upgrade a G1023 to a 5hp motor?

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#14 posted 646 days ago

If that Super General is still new in the package, Infinity just might let you exchange it if you pay shipping. Send them a note explaining your story and ask….I’ve found them to be pretty nice folks. If not, there shouldn’t be issue using the thin kerf blades unless you install a full kerf splitter….a splitter that’s wider than the blade will cause the workpiece to hang up mid-cut. The TK blades are a bit more prone to flexing, but a blade of that caliber shouldn’t have too much of a problem if the saw spins true unless you’re cutting something like mesquite.

Good luck!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Brickman's profile

Brickman

50 posts in 972 days


#15 posted 646 days ago

I essentially did the same thing you are doing with a Grizzly 1023Z. It purchased it of of Craigslist and have spent the last year getting it up to what I wanted. It was rusty and not set up very well. Here is what I have done so far:

1. Sanded the top and gave it a good coating of Boeshield to protect it. That was a messy job but got all of the rust cleaned off.

2. Took the top off and cleaned the inside out. It was still full of cosmoline and wood dust and the cranks would not work up or down. Lubed the works with a drying lube (can’t remember the name). Replaced the belts with the link belts as the belts were wore in an hopped like mad.

3. Leveled the tops so the wings were even with the main surface. This was pain as they are heavy. Made the miter slot parallel to the blade. Replaced the fence with a Vega 50” Pro fence. The original fence was not quite true as they used the fence rails to pick up and move the saw. Not very good for keeping everything plumb and square. The Vega was not that bad but I did have to fabricate a couple of brackets to get the power switch mounted and get the back rails to the correct height.

4. Purchased a BORK and a Sharkguard. I will use the Sharkguard as it is much heavier duty and I could flex my BORK if I pushed the wood through too fast. I will also probably get the Micro splitters as well.

I also would see little benefit to a 5 HP motor unless you were using a feeder to run stock through. My motor does not bog down at all and it is a 3 hp. So far I am happy with my saw. It was a bunch of work but I know how my saw is put together and how to adjust things.

-- Mark - Pueblo, Colorado

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#16 posted 645 days ago

Well originally I was just going to oil and clean things up as is….but then I felt the arbor had a bit of rubbing/grining sound, so I took it off to replace bearings. This ended up taking all day, as all the machgine shops are closed on Sat. I just can’t get off work during their hours during the week….Finding a 6203 RS bearing on Sat isn’t easy….Once again the ever Faithful Tractor Supply store saved the day, but they only had one left so I had to then drive across town. A friend’s dad had a press, and some needed specialty tools or getting arbor fixed up. I thought the bearings would go on like on Delta Unisaw, and had decided a press was nesc. Turns out that was wrong. Really the way they just fit in the cast iron, you can se a regular vice as your press. Main thing is to remember to put only 1 on until shaft and spacers are attached. In any case it’s amazing how much smootherit feels with some new bearings… it wasn’t as tough as I thought it would be.

I took motor off completely So I could get at trunnions better to clean. So Now I am wondering about changing motor’s bearing etc. On that one I kind of think I’d like a machine shop to do it if I can find reasonable price.

I have bean cleaning trunions and scraping away this horrible dried grease some previous owner had it’s dried on to gears like a super wax, finally had to spray down wth penetrator and use razor blade to scrap clean, then went over it all with some PG2000…..runs smooth like butter now….so I will keep them on, only reason i kind of wish I could take them off, is they have rust areas and would love to clean those up, and repaint inside as well.

Maybe later I just want this working by time power is hooked up.

New Questions….

1.) I hate the stanbard switch, and I want a knee knocker or kick off….any suggstions?

2.) Brickman, what did you attach the sharkguard too if you don’ have BORK. Mine didin’t come with splitter. So I was going to get the MJ’s.

3.) If I do decide the motor is less then what I want what is the going rate to get motor refurbed vs a new motor?

Even though it has taken me alot of time…...I’m glad I went this route, I’ll have a much better saw when done, I trulyhave learned alot, and it’s kind of like anti-stress therapy to work on it, vs the office. I may have to find something else to restore when I am done now…:P

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View toolie's profile

toolie

1721 posts in 1230 days


#17 posted 645 days ago

1.) I hate the stanbard switch, and I want a knee knocker or kick off….any suggstions?

here’s a couple of DIY possibilities (and one of them is on a right tilt griz like yours)
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42699&s=9e79d65b81c31f26e3b5dac6551b1cae

2.) Brickman, what did you attach the sharkguard too if you don’ have BORK. Mine didin’t come with splitter. So I was going to get the MJ’s.

i’ve heard the small tabs that attach th esplitter to the surface of the insert are prone to failure. here’s how shopnotes magazine did it on a DIY fabricated insert:

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-insert/

3.) If I do decide the motor is less then what I want what is the going rate to get motor refurbed vs a new motor?

in the new york city tris state area, when i refurbished a 40 yo unisaw, the bearings on a 3 hp baldor could have been better. estimates ranged from $150 to knurl the shaft (as it was worn at the bearing locations) to $450 to turn the motor shaft on a lathe and replace the bearings (my windings were apparently, ok). on the assumption that you don’t view this as a DIY undertaking, get local recommendations for a good electric motor shop. i found a guy whose shop looked awful, but it turns out my electrician friends thought he was the “mad scientist” of electric motor repair, and he repaired it wonderfully.

3hp 1ph unisaw frame replacement motors can cost upwards $375 and as much as $600. there are cheaper alternatives, such as finding a motor of lower power with the incorrect frame and buying as adapter bracket so it can be mounted to an original motor bracket. i personally don’t like this alternative as it strays form a saw’s original design, but it can be (especially in the case of unisaws with their unique motor mount), a much less expensive alternative. i found these guys to offer new leeson 3hp motors with unisaw frames at very good prices.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=electricmotorsite

might be worth a check for an aftermarket motor for your griz if refurbishing gets too expensive.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Brickman's profile

Brickman

50 posts in 972 days


#18 posted 645 days ago

Grizzly does make a paddle switch but they start at $120 and are never in stock. You have to buy all of the parts and put them together. I am going to do one of the DIY solutions as my switch works ad just needs the paddle.

On the back side if the arbor assembly on my saw was the mounting holes for the original splitter. I took mine off as it exited out of the back of the saw and it was in the way of mounting the Vega. The Sharkguard was pretty easy to install on my saw. http://www.thesharkguard.com/installbw.php. I can swap them out between the three guard sizes fairly quickly.

The BORK is a good idea but the arm that attaches to the arbor is aluminum. I will probably fabricate a steel arm as I can flex the aluminum and one day I will bend it enough to get it into the blade. More so a side effect of my inexperience on a saw but I prefer steel over aluminum for parts that see stress.

No recommendation on a motor. Would love a Baldor but as I use my saw as a hobby saw I will most likely stick to the Grizzly motors if I have any issues.

-- Mark - Pueblo, Colorado

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#19 posted 645 days ago

Brickman, most of the aluminum arm on the BORK should be supported by the cast iron swing arm of the saw. If the saw blade and the riving knife are sized properly, there really shouldn’t be much stress on the riving knife. No doubt steel would be stronger, but that hasn’t been an issue with mine. Under what conditions are you getting it to bend?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3350 posts in 2562 days


#20 posted 645 days ago

When,and if, you replace the belts, get a matched set of three. Buying single belts from an auto parts store will give ya some variance between the belts. You don’t want that.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Brickman's profile

Brickman

50 posts in 972 days


#21 posted 645 days ago

My BORK arm has a slot cut in it at the bend following the arm of the saw. It allows it to flex quite a bit if the wood puts any pressure on the knife. I spoke to Bob about it and he said that he has been pinning them to remove the flex. I did just see that he is making them out of stainless steel which might be a fix. I am either going to get the slot welded or switch to the stainless. My arm does not have the pin so it can flex enough for the knife to contact the blade.

!

-- Mark - Pueblo, Colorado

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#22 posted 645 days ago

So what’s wrong with using MJ Splitters?

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View toolie's profile

toolie

1721 posts in 1230 days


#23 posted 644 days ago

mj splitters’ 2 tabs that are inserted into the insert plate are somewhat prone to snapping off. it apparently doesn’t happen often and is the only knock i’ve heard regarding them.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#24 posted 642 days ago

Popped my motor and made new thread as it is really it’s own issue…. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/42632
Trying to decide what bearings to get for it.

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#25 posted 642 days ago

1.) I think I will start with the MJ Splitters for this saw, though the stainless steel Bork is a likely upgrade….but honestly rather save that money towards a roller outfeed and or wood to actually cut on this thing.. :D

2.) Maybe I’m lazy but I’m thinking I will stick with the thin kerf for now, I don’t think it would be easy to return at this point, and I will not be cutting very thick wood…..I may regret that we’ll see.

3.) Zero clearance insert question… Okay I’m a noob….but how do you make them? I see diff people selling them everywhere. However I’m curious how you cut into them as at lowest level isn’t a 10” blade still high enough to touch. Can you simply raise running saw up through them?

4.) Is it considered immoral to repaint your Grizzly saw some other color then Grizzley Green? Thinking Vault 101 blue, with Vult Tec logo…and pip boy… .........hmmmmm Yellow stripes….and neon light effects…. (or just blue)

Actually only the repaint it blue part is true…..it has alot of spots that paint has flecked, and rusty…thinging of sanding up and repaining cabinet. Though the above would be pretty sweet.

5.) Sigh….thought I’d have 220 line last week then this week, now it may be next week as several of friends guys on crew are sick with bug going around. Just as well gives me time to order bearings.

6.) no idea why I am numbering this….it’s late hard week, and Tequila helped….

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View toolie's profile

toolie

1721 posts in 1230 days


#26 posted 642 days ago

3.) Zero clearance insert question… Okay I’m a noob….but how do you make them? I see diff people selling them everywhere. However I’m curious how you cut into them as at lowest level isn’t a 10” blade still high enough to touch. Can you simply raise running saw up through them?

two blades are commonly used for the initial limited thru cut of ZCIs. either a 7 1/4” circular saw blade or the outer blade of either a 6” or an 8’ dado set. once either of these just comes thru the ZCI, stop and change to the blade for which that ZCI is being fabricated. then finish the thru cut to the desired height. and do not use the rip fence to secure the unkerfed ZCI in the opening as is shown in some ZCI videos. use a piece of scrap 3/4” sheet goods or 2×4 covering the unkerfed ZCI and secured to the table top with clamps. nothing will ruin the experience of fabricating your own ZCI like bringing a spinning saw blade up into your rip fence because you miscalculated where it would penetrate the insert.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#27 posted 641 days ago

Some motor pics..

Thread on my motor refurbish attempt is here http://lumberjocks.com/topics/42632 Made it seperate simply because anyone who has worked on motors might be able to help regardless if they have used grizzly.

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#28 posted 639 days ago

Some new Koyo 62032RS and 62052RS sealed bearings, my new set of bearing pullers, and ball joint seperator, the motor I’m refurbing from my G1023 Grizzly and a piece of Tiramisu, a good start to the weekend. This is how all my weekends should start. mmmmm new bearings and Tiramasu….mmmmmm

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#29 posted 639 days ago

How does the Tiramasu do as bearing grease?! ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View TraveledSome's profile

TraveledSome

30 posts in 819 days


#30 posted 637 days ago

Didn’t save any to find out… :D Getting the larger bearing in place wasn’t easy ended up boring a large hole through a table leg to make a wooden hollow shaft to tap it in. Which worked, I had a hard time getting wooden shaft off then , but luckily wood was sacrificial…:D I got it all put back together and only wish I could run it to check.

After I installed these I found a bearings publication though that said the sealed bearings were rated for lower speeds….so no I worry maybe there was a reason to go to the ZZ..(these were 2RS) ..but I am thinking the publication was more on constant moving areas like in factories, i just hope using sealed bearings didn’t lower the speed for my saw. I should know later this week.

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

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