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View Eric's profile

Solid Cedar Chair protection

by Eric
posted 829 days ago


20 replies so far

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#1 posted 829 days ago

Actually I would go with a spar varnish it will cover and protect the wood for a better out of doors finish I used to make these chairs in sets as a kit and sold hundreds of them when times were good not so good now but they do hold up Ours were made out of rough sawn redwood 4/4 think stock they were wonderful chairs I might mill the wood a bit heavier if i were using cedar . these chairs are a blast to make and to modify into several matching peices we made a double wide with a fixed table and a rocker and on and on these are a load of fun to play with and to pay for new tools for the shop.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Eric's profile

Eric

184 posts in 1109 days


#2 posted 828 days ago

I’m looking for as natural finish as possible. Will spar varnish appear or FEEL plastic-y like poly?

-- Eric

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14589 posts in 2274 days


#3 posted 828 days ago

Check out this http://www.penofin.com/faqs.shtml

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#4 posted 828 days ago

No it wont but see for your self buy a small can and apply it if the choice is splintering or peel off or a bit thicker of a finish which would you choose.

Topa those last few had me ROFLMAO I do hope that was a joke page cause if it was serious how the hell are they going to sell it now

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

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thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#5 posted 828 days ago

Actualy the only finishes that are natural so to speak are not going to save this lovely grain IMHO. I think no one wants to tell you cause they know what you want may not exist but lets say you use water based Thompson water seal like for a deck did you know thousands of people get redness from it when it has prolonged contact with the skin . My answer was based on 43 years of woodworking experience and I don’t give advise that I wont take as solid spar varnish is a varnish it is used on boats so you can see the lovely grain and it wont need re-sanding every 2 years and a re application. It is not perfect but, i think that your trying to preserve a piece of wood you expect to fail .and this is the best way to do that IMHO

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#6 posted 828 days ago

Ok now I have your attention here is a great third party story from the fine folks at FWW they dont have an embed feature on their share it link but here it is for you. oh when they say marine varnish it is the same thing ok! http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/13849/the-ultimate-outdoor-finish

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14589 posts in 2274 days


#7 posted 828 days ago

They make some stuff called Log-on that has 99% UV protection.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View doninvegas's profile

doninvegas

332 posts in 1505 days


#8 posted 827 days ago

I’ve been making Adirondack furniture here in Nevada for 5 years. What has worked here is a base coat of Cabot’s Timber oil thinned about 25% with mineral spirits (let it cure real well) then 3 coats of spar varnish. One of my first customers had me re-finish their chairs after 5 years in this environment. It holds up well.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#9 posted 827 days ago

thanks for the second on the spar varnish Don I know it works I have used it for years I use danish oil or sam maloof oil and spar varnish it works great

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Eric's profile

Eric

184 posts in 1109 days


#10 posted 824 days ago

Advice for appling spar with HVLP?

-- Eric

View doninvegas's profile

doninvegas

332 posts in 1505 days


#11 posted 823 days ago

I spray with the Earlex 5000 with the 2mm tip. I thin the spar a little maybe 10%. You can spray full strengh with no problems though.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View mmcafee09's profile

mmcafee09

29 posts in 870 days


#12 posted 823 days ago

I use Helmsman spar urathane, it is UV protection and goes on nice. I just use a sponge brush or natural. Look at my projects, the cedar adirondack rocker has about two coats on it. as well as the planter i just put on a few days ago. Hope that helps

-- The College Woodworker

View Eric's profile

Eric

184 posts in 1109 days


#13 posted 823 days ago

I settled on Varathane oil based satin spar. Hoping for raw wood appearance with little or no shine. Tomorrow I plan to shoot the first coat with HVLP before assembly to catch all the edges. Coats 2 and 3 will go on after assembly.

-- Eric

View KevinH's profile

KevinH

88 posts in 2405 days


#14 posted 823 days ago

I used spar varnish with UV protection on a cedar Adirondack chair three years ago and it’s holding up well in central Pennsylvania moisture. The varnish imparts an amber tint that deepens nicely with each coat.

-- Timing has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance. --Kevin in Happy Valley

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#15 posted 822 days ago

Way to go Eric. I cant wait to see your chairs, be sure to link them in to this thread when you put them up as a project so i will be sure to see them. I have used Varathane before and it worked well you should be just fine.

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Eric's profile

Eric

184 posts in 1109 days


#16 posted 815 days ago

You weren’t kidding. The cedar looks great.

My only complaint is its kinda splotchy. I’m not sure if I need to tweak my HVLP gun settings or just add the final 2 coats. There is strong sheen variation between the heart and sap wood. OTher places there are circles like my gun was shooting dollops instead of a fine mist.

-- Eric

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3503 posts in 1076 days


#17 posted 815 days ago

it could be the gun did you seal it first? if not no worries the 2nd and 3rd coat will smooth it out,a light sand between coats don’t sand through the finish you will be fine .

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Eric's profile

Eric

184 posts in 1109 days


#18 posted 802 days ago

Here it is guys. Thanks for helping.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/65910

-- Eric

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 884 days


#19 posted 802 days ago

I have a couple that I made from white pine with redwood stain and spar. They are only a couple months old but as you can see they look great. I think the spar is the best way to go. I plan to clean these up and add another coat of spar before the season ends.

One other thing. I made these according to plans, but if you ask me, the seat could be a couple inches longer. I have another that I haven’t finished yet that is a couple inches longer in the seat and a bit less high around the knees. It looks the same, but it’s far more comfortable.

I used Charles Neil pre-color conditioner on both. It made a BIG difference.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Eric's profile

Eric

184 posts in 1109 days


#20 posted 802 days ago

Hi Russell,
Check out Norm;s plan sometime. I updated most of the fasteners he suggests, but I think the shape and size of his chair is spot on!

-- Eric

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