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View JoeyG's profile

Dovetail Jigs

by JoeyG
posted 04-10-2012 01:26 AM


19 replies so far

View Gonecrazy's profile

Gonecrazy

41 posts in 1283 days


#1 posted 04-10-2012 01:37 AM

this one will work for ya ….. its not the best model in the world but for the price i havent had any probs with it … it will make the as long as any board you can come up with … only thing is that you have to slide it and you a key the come with it to refrence off the last dovetail cut …

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware-power-tool-accessories-jigs/kohler-kelston-diverter-valve-kit-in-vibrant-brushed-bronze-171342.html

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112939 posts in 2331 days


#2 posted 04-10-2012 01:47 AM

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2708 posts in 1060 days


#3 posted 04-10-2012 02:16 AM

The Porter cable will allow you to do that you just need to remove the plates. I’ve done it before when I made a blanket chest. As long as you line up the plate correctley when you need to do the rest you should be fine. If I remember correctly Porter cable even put out a video on how to do it.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Karson's profile

Karson

34916 posts in 3155 days


#4 posted 04-10-2012 02:35 AM

I’ve seen this one in action at the woodworking shows.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View wooded's profile

wooded

313 posts in 1026 days


#5 posted 04-10-2012 03:15 AM

JOEY, I AGREE WITH JIM. THAT IS JUST A LIGHTER VERSION OF WHAT I WAS GOING TO SUGGEST WHICH IS THE PEACHTREE FIXED DOVETAIL JIG. IT IS THICKER TO USE BEARING OR GUIDE TYPE BITS WITH IT. PEACHTREE CATALOG www.ptreeusa.com IS AVAILABLE ON LINE. IT ISN’T REALLY NECESSARY BUT YOU CAN ACTUALLY ATTATCH THESE TOGETHER FOR LONGER RUNS WITHOUT REPOSITIONING THEM. JUST SOMETHING TO LOOK AT. IVÉ USED THIS ALOT. GOOD LUCK, ;-J

-- Joe in Pueblo West, Colo. jdelong264@msn.com

View sandhill's profile

sandhill

2128 posts in 2678 days


#6 posted 04-10-2012 04:25 AM

There is one that Charles Neil did a video review on, can’t remember the name but it was pretty much fool proof and made good tight dove tails because of a tapering lock or something. Sorry I can’t quite remember the details but its worth looking at. Check out you tube or his site.

View JoeyG's profile

JoeyG

1259 posts in 1379 days


#7 posted 04-10-2012 11:27 AM

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. I am researching all of them now. I really want a incra router table fence, but I just don’t see how that will work for this job. Once I have made up my mind I will let you all know what I chose and why. I hope you all have a great day.

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

208 posts in 1288 days


#8 posted 04-10-2012 11:34 AM

I second Karson’s link above. I actually own it (sears had it on the clearance shelf). You have to make pieces of plywood with lines ripped in it as the template, but it’s pretty easy to make.

-- Ev in Framingham, MA

View wooded's profile

wooded

313 posts in 1026 days


#9 posted 04-10-2012 02:46 PM

sandhill is talking about the Kehoe jig an it would be great for this with your client’s blessing that is. Great idea. ;-J

-- Joe in Pueblo West, Colo. jdelong264@msn.com

View SASmith               's profile

SASmith

1637 posts in 1741 days


#10 posted 04-10-2012 09:12 PM

Like wooded I would use the keho jig if the client is ok with dovetail splines instead of actual dovetails.
This blog show the jig.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

View JoeyG's profile

JoeyG

1259 posts in 1379 days


#11 posted 04-10-2012 10:29 PM

I would love to be able to sell my client on the Kehoe jig, but I don’t think I will be able to. He wants real dovetails, not splines. I might have to get one for the shop. I was planning on trying the dovetail spines on an upcoming box and that would make it a lot easier.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I will let you know once I make a decision.

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

View crashman's profile

crashman

103 posts in 1099 days


#12 posted 04-11-2012 03:13 AM

Joey, I use the Peachtree jig mentioned by Wooded. I used it for Sammy’s Treasure Chest posted in my projects if you want to see the results. Simple jig with good results @ a resanoble price. I purchased 2 templates which fasten together end to end, or you can buy more templates to make the jig as long as you want.
good luck wiyh the desk,sounds like a big job…....................Jack

-- Jack R. Ellis

View rance's profile

rance

4149 posts in 1914 days


#13 posted 04-11-2012 03:21 AM

Look at the Keller jig. No limits on width. And I’ve heard lots of great comments on it.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View William's profile

William

9287 posts in 1596 days


#14 posted 04-11-2012 03:24 AM

If you make one, may I suggest this one?
I recently made it and extended mine out to be able to dovetail up to 36”.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Wazy's profile

Wazy

68 posts in 991 days


#15 posted 04-11-2012 03:32 AM

I use a Leigh D4 jig and length poses no problem. The accuracy and operation is relatively simple and extremely accurately with a great deal of versatility in design set up. A concern may be price but the quality will overide it.

Wally

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7831 posts in 2402 days


#16 posted 04-11-2012 03:51 AM

Dovetailing a face frame to a panel at right angles is not
a common use of the common through or half-blind
dovetail joint. If you do it you’ll have a short grain
problem on the edge of the face frame and a wood
movement problem too.

Sliding dovetails or dovetailed keys could be used in
this application more successfully.

Of course, you may be visualizing an unusual construction
method that doesn’t use a true face frame in the more
common cabinet-making sense, something I haven’t
seen or thought of before or dovetailing something
like bamboo ply board which has unusual characteristics
in terms of movement and joinery possibilities.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View rance's profile

rance

4149 posts in 1914 days


#17 posted 04-11-2012 04:29 AM

Or the MLCS version of the Keller jig, but at a much cheaper price.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View JoeyG's profile

JoeyG

1259 posts in 1379 days


#18 posted 04-11-2012 12:41 PM

Loren, thank you. I have had that nagging thought in the back of my head the whole time saying this is a bad idea. I just couldn’t put my finger on why. It’s been a while since I have played with dovetails and I just couldn’t get to the root of what bothered me about the idea. I completely agree that while it may make an interesting design feature, it would not be a durable desk. I think I am going to handle this by tell my client that using dovetails in this manner would weaken the integrity of the desk to a point I am not comfortable with. I plan to suggest dovetail splines with a lock joint miter on the corners. I think the lock joint will help those long 45’s match up. This way he will get an extremely strong desk and still achieve a similar look to what he is after.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions. I will be back to this topic without doubt. I will also have dovetail drawers to do, so there is still need of the dovetail jig.

I hope everyone is having a great week and thanks again for the help.
Joey

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

View yuri's profile

yuri

135 posts in 2357 days


#19 posted 04-11-2012 05:11 PM

JoeyG,

I’d suggest to check Leigh R9PLUS Joinery System
It is relatively new on market, but it is versatile, looks quality made and can be used to make loooong dovetail joint. It is implemented to be “shiftable” so to speak. I should mention that I do not own one yet.

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