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View JoeyG's profile

Dovetail Jigs

by JoeyG
posted 870 days ago


19 replies so far

View Gonecrazy's profile

Gonecrazy

41 posts in 1160 days


#1 posted 870 days ago

this one will work for ya ….. its not the best model in the world but for the price i havent had any probs with it … it will make the as long as any board you can come up with … only thing is that you have to slide it and you a key the come with it to refrence off the last dovetail cut …

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware-power-tool-accessories-jigs/kohler-kelston-diverter-valve-kit-in-vibrant-brushed-bronze-171342.html

View a1Jim's profile (online now)

a1Jim

112015 posts in 2209 days


#2 posted 869 days ago

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2708 posts in 937 days


#3 posted 869 days ago

The Porter cable will allow you to do that you just need to remove the plates. I’ve done it before when I made a blanket chest. As long as you line up the plate correctley when you need to do the rest you should be fine. If I remember correctly Porter cable even put out a video on how to do it.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Karson's profile

Karson

34870 posts in 3032 days


#4 posted 869 days ago

I’ve seen this one in action at the woodworking shows.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View wooded's profile

wooded

293 posts in 903 days


#5 posted 869 days ago

JOEY, I AGREE WITH JIM. THAT IS JUST A LIGHTER VERSION OF WHAT I WAS GOING TO SUGGEST WHICH IS THE PEACHTREE FIXED DOVETAIL JIG. IT IS THICKER TO USE BEARING OR GUIDE TYPE BITS WITH IT. PEACHTREE CATALOG www.ptreeusa.com IS AVAILABLE ON LINE. IT ISN’T REALLY NECESSARY BUT YOU CAN ACTUALLY ATTATCH THESE TOGETHER FOR LONGER RUNS WITHOUT REPOSITIONING THEM. JUST SOMETHING TO LOOK AT. IVÉ USED THIS ALOT. GOOD LUCK, ;-J

-- Joe in Pueblo West, Colo. jdelong264@msn.com

View sandhill's profile

sandhill

2118 posts in 2555 days


#6 posted 869 days ago

There is one that Charles Neil did a video review on, can’t remember the name but it was pretty much fool proof and made good tight dove tails because of a tapering lock or something. Sorry I can’t quite remember the details but its worth looking at. Check out you tube or his site.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

View JoeyG's profile

JoeyG

1234 posts in 1257 days


#7 posted 869 days ago

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. I am researching all of them now. I really want a incra router table fence, but I just don’t see how that will work for this job. Once I have made up my mind I will let you all know what I chose and why. I hope you all have a great day.

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

View Everett1's profile

Everett1

208 posts in 1166 days


#8 posted 869 days ago

I second Karson’s link above. I actually own it (sears had it on the clearance shelf). You have to make pieces of plywood with lines ripped in it as the template, but it’s pretty easy to make.

-- Ev in Framingham, MA

View wooded's profile

wooded

293 posts in 903 days


#9 posted 869 days ago

sandhill is talking about the Kehoe jig an it would be great for this with your client’s blessing that is. Great idea. ;-J

-- Joe in Pueblo West, Colo. jdelong264@msn.com

View SASmith               's profile

SASmith

1571 posts in 1619 days


#10 posted 869 days ago

Like wooded I would use the keho jig if the client is ok with dovetail splines instead of actual dovetails.
This blog show the jig.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

View JoeyG's profile

JoeyG

1234 posts in 1257 days


#11 posted 869 days ago

I would love to be able to sell my client on the Kehoe jig, but I don’t think I will be able to. He wants real dovetails, not splines. I might have to get one for the shop. I was planning on trying the dovetail spines on an upcoming box and that would make it a lot easier.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I will let you know once I make a decision.

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

View crashman's profile

crashman

99 posts in 977 days


#12 posted 868 days ago

Joey, I use the Peachtree jig mentioned by Wooded. I used it for Sammy’s Treasure Chest posted in my projects if you want to see the results. Simple jig with good results @ a resanoble price. I purchased 2 templates which fasten together end to end, or you can buy more templates to make the jig as long as you want.
good luck wiyh the desk,sounds like a big job…....................Jack

-- Jack R. Ellis

View rance's profile

rance

4130 posts in 1792 days


#13 posted 868 days ago

Look at the Keller jig. No limits on width. And I’ve heard lots of great comments on it.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View William's profile

William

8976 posts in 1474 days


#14 posted 868 days ago

If you make one, may I suggest this one?
I recently made it and extended mine out to be able to dovetail up to 36”.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Wazy's profile

Wazy

68 posts in 869 days


#15 posted 868 days ago

I use a Leigh D4 jig and length poses no problem. The accuracy and operation is relatively simple and extremely accurately with a great deal of versatility in design set up. A concern may be price but the quality will overide it.

Wally

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7424 posts in 2279 days


#16 posted 868 days ago

Dovetailing a face frame to a panel at right angles is not
a common use of the common through or half-blind
dovetail joint. If you do it you’ll have a short grain
problem on the edge of the face frame and a wood
movement problem too.

Sliding dovetails or dovetailed keys could be used in
this application more successfully.

Of course, you may be visualizing an unusual construction
method that doesn’t use a true face frame in the more
common cabinet-making sense, something I haven’t
seen or thought of before or dovetailing something
like bamboo ply board which has unusual characteristics
in terms of movement and joinery possibilities.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View rance's profile

rance

4130 posts in 1792 days


#17 posted 868 days ago

Or the MLCS version of the Keller jig, but at a much cheaper price.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View JoeyG's profile

JoeyG

1234 posts in 1257 days


#18 posted 868 days ago

Loren, thank you. I have had that nagging thought in the back of my head the whole time saying this is a bad idea. I just couldn’t put my finger on why. It’s been a while since I have played with dovetails and I just couldn’t get to the root of what bothered me about the idea. I completely agree that while it may make an interesting design feature, it would not be a durable desk. I think I am going to handle this by tell my client that using dovetails in this manner would weaken the integrity of the desk to a point I am not comfortable with. I plan to suggest dovetail splines with a lock joint miter on the corners. I think the lock joint will help those long 45’s match up. This way he will get an extremely strong desk and still achieve a similar look to what he is after.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions. I will be back to this topic without doubt. I will also have dovetail drawers to do, so there is still need of the dovetail jig.

I hope everyone is having a great week and thanks again for the help.
Joey

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

View yuri's profile

yuri

135 posts in 2235 days


#19 posted 868 days ago

JoeyG,

I’d suggest to check Leigh R9PLUS Joinery System
It is relatively new on market, but it is versatile, looks quality made and can be used to make loooong dovetail joint. It is implemented to be “shiftable” so to speak. I should mention that I do not own one yet.

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