All Replies on Saw stop issue with material drift

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View Dan's profile

Saw stop issue with material drift

by Dan
posted 04-04-2012 12:57 AM

20 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117126 posts in 3605 days

#1 posted 04-04-2012 02:11 AM

Have you checked your saw blade?

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View dakremer's profile


2672 posts in 3119 days

#2 posted 04-04-2012 02:36 AM

my old craftsman table saw does that as well…..I’ve always wondered why! I’ll be watching – hopefully you (we) can get some answers!

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3676 days

#3 posted 04-04-2012 02:59 AM

The source is either misalignment of your saw or tension in
your wood stock. Your blade may be heeling. Your riving
knife may be off. The face of your fence may be curved.
Your reference edge may be bowed. Your fence may be
deflecting. Your assessment of fence parallelism may be

View Fuzzy's profile


298 posts in 4016 days

#4 posted 04-04-2012 03:16 AM

Very good possibility the riving knife is misaligned, pulling the stock away from the fence … one possibility (that I don’t necessarily recommend) would be to make a few test cuts with the riving knife removed.

Another (less likely) possibility would be a warped/bent fence.

-- - dabbling in sarcasm is foolish … if you’re not proficient at it, you end up looking stupid … ... ...

View killerb's profile


150 posts in 2426 days

#5 posted 04-04-2012 12:35 PM

I would think if the riving knife was off, you couldn’t get the wood past it. I would check your stock. It sounds like tension wood.

-- Bob

View Scot's profile


344 posts in 3424 days

#6 posted 04-04-2012 12:38 PM

The riving knife is off.

-- If the old masters had power tools, they would have used them. So get off your damn High Horse.

View crashn's profile


528 posts in 2493 days

#7 posted 04-04-2012 03:20 PM

+2 on the riving knife not aligned

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View Sarit's profile


549 posts in 3168 days

#8 posted 04-04-2012 03:30 PM

I have a PCS too. I had the same issue too when I started out.
I’m going to venture a guess that you have too much pressure on the feather board and that always causes the workpiece to want to drift away from the fence.

View cabmaker's profile


1735 posts in 2837 days

#9 posted 04-04-2012 08:24 PM

Read Lorens post again, the answer is there.

View CharlieM1958's profile


16275 posts in 4246 days

#10 posted 04-04-2012 08:38 PM

It could be anything Loren mentioned. But a couple of test cute without the riving knife could quickly determine whether or not the the problem is there. That’s the first thing I would try.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3613 days

#11 posted 04-04-2012 08:53 PM

Sounds like the riving knife to me too.Check with a series of cuts aligning the riving knife laterally each way.If it gets worse move it back more, til it cuts perfect.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View John Little's profile

John Little

32 posts in 2271 days

#12 posted 04-04-2012 08:53 PM

Have a SawStop PCS too but have not had that problem. Do you get different results if you use the splitter/blade guard instead of the riving knife?

-- John Little, ToyMakers of East Lake

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3096 days

#13 posted 04-04-2012 09:10 PM

Where do you position the push stick? Loren’s suggestions can all cause this problem, but it’s also possible that you’re “steering” workpiece away from the fence because of where you’re positioning the push stick. Ideally, the push force should be directly in line with the blade. When it isn’t, you can introduce a bit of lateral force which wants to “steer” the workpiece. The further your force is “off-line” the more pronounced the lateral force.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Sarit's profile


549 posts in 3168 days

#14 posted 04-04-2012 09:40 PM

You have to approach this systematically. Test each theory until you find the culprit.

First raise your blade and move your fence to it so its just a paper’s thickness away from the sides of the teeth and lock down the fence. Is the gap the same all around? Is the riving knife touching the fence (it shouldn’t be). Repeat this on the other side of the blade.

If that’s not an issue, put a straight edge against the fence and look for gaps. If you see gaps, slide the straight edge back and forth and see if the gap moves w/ the straight edge (ie curved straight edge) or with the fence (ie curved fence).

Still not it? Then take a wide board (make sure its straight by sliding it against the fence as in the prev step) and without the riving knife, without the featherboard, try nibbling off one edge with a push block like this:
I try to position my push block closer to the blade than to the fence. That helps to counteract the resistance that the blade makes which will try to make the workpiece drift away from the fence.

Is it curved? If not, then try adding in the riving knife and repeat the last step.

Still not curved, try adding the featherboard.

View Dan's profile


106 posts in 2854 days

#15 posted 04-04-2012 10:22 PM

Thank you all for your response. I am guessing it is the splitter and will take a look tonight. I will get back to you with my findings.

-- Will work for wood...

View Dan's profile


106 posts in 2854 days

#16 posted 04-05-2012 12:22 AM

Ok so I made some adjustments to the splitter and it looks like that solved the problem. It also helped remove burm marks. The splitter wander parallel to the blade causing the material to push itself away from the fence as soon as it hit the end of the splitter which was actually outside of the blade kerf. Thank you all for the suggestions.

-- Will work for wood...

View crashn's profile


528 posts in 2493 days

#17 posted 04-05-2012 01:26 AM

glad to hear you got it solved!

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 3426 days

#18 posted 04-05-2012 06:38 AM

I have heard about this sort of thing quite a bit. People always check the leading edge of their splitter/riving knife but ther rear edge can be angled away or towards the fence and cause issues. Glad you found it and hopefully others can benefit from your search. I learn a bunch from hearing how others solve problems.

-- Tom Hintz,

View Joel Shappell's profile

Joel Shappell

85 posts in 2105 days

#19 posted 02-26-2015 03:21 AM

Dan, Did you ever figure out what the issue was? I have a similar problem, but found out after days of checking, measuring, etc, that the laminated wood on the fence was coming unglued and causing a warp.

View Woodknack's profile


11821 posts in 2408 days

#20 posted 02-26-2015 06:15 AM

Joel, 3 posts above yours.

-- Rick M,

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