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All Replies on Ridgid R4512 TS -- shop built folding outfeed table & router insert

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View nwbusa's profile

Ridgid R4512 TS -- shop built folding outfeed table & router insert

by nwbusa
posted 883 days ago


29 replies so far

View jeff's profile

jeff

634 posts in 2062 days


#1 posted 883 days ago

Hi John,welcome to LJ’s and yes this is a great site…nice modifications you did there…i have the same saw and im looking forward to adding a router table insert also.thx for posting…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View DIYaholic's profile (online now)

DIYaholic

12889 posts in 1272 days


#2 posted 883 days ago

Welcome to LJs.
I just purchased a new (to me) C’man contractor saw & need to get me an outfeed table like yours!!!

Thanks for shaing and providing me motivation!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View jaydubya's profile

jaydubya

183 posts in 1409 days


#3 posted 883 days ago

I dont see miter slots in the outfeed. is it low enough to clear the miter gauge or sleds as they come off the back of the saw?

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#4 posted 883 days ago

Thanks for the welcoming comments!

@jaydubya: yes, the outfeed table sits just low enough to provide clearance for the miter gauge. I don’t use a crosscut sled (yet), but it would be east to modify the height of the table and add miter tracks down the road, if desired.

-- John, BC, Canada

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2350 days


#5 posted 883 days ago

Nice work nwbusa.

View drfixit's profile

drfixit

318 posts in 1741 days


#6 posted 883 days ago

Looks very nice to me, and its great that it folds away when not in use.

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

View Hullguitars's profile

Hullguitars

2 posts in 735 days


#7 posted 713 days ago

WOW!!! thats really cool how you made a colapsable outfeed. How did you henge it? it looks like door henges? any closeup pics?

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#8 posted 713 days ago

Wow, my very first post to LJs back from the dead :)

Yes, I used standard door hinges. You can see here where I had to drill two new holes in the hinges to mount them to the rear fence rail.

Here’s another shot of the hinged leg. I’ve over-exposed the pic a bit so you can see where I mounted a short piece of angle iron to the TS base to act as a ledge for the bottom of the leg to rest in. The tricky part was figuring out the lengths of the leg segments and the angle of the cuts for the leg hinge, so that the outfeed table sat level.

The funny thing is, I almost never use the outfeed table anymore, as I built a mobile assembly table that I use for that task. Still, when the assembly table is occupied, I can always roll it out of the way and use the folding outfeed table. It’s surprisingly strong.

Good times!

-- John, BC, Canada

View James 's profile

James

138 posts in 1523 days


#9 posted 713 days ago

Show us some pics of the rolling assembly table. How do you like your R4512 since you have had it for a few months now.

James

View Tomj's profile

Tomj

204 posts in 979 days


#10 posted 713 days ago

I have some melamine myself I bought off the scrap cart at HD just for this purpose. The only concern I have is how the melamine reacts when routing for the router insert (whether it will chip etc.) Did you have any problems working with the melamine/particle board? Assuming you used particle coated with melamine.

View bluekingfisher's profile

bluekingfisher

992 posts in 1577 days


#11 posted 713 days ago

Welcome to LJ’s John. nice design you have there.

How have you found the balance of the saw? I know that stuff can be heavy, does it cause and “wobbly” moments or is it all rock solid.

David

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#12 posted 713 days ago

James, check out my shop page in my profile, it shows a couple of shots with the mobile assembly table set up. As for the saw, I really do like it. I spent some time getting it really dialed in, and invested in a some better blades. I rip 8/4 hard maple with no problems. IMO, it’s a very good saw for the money.

Tom, I had some very minor chip out when I routed the melamine. When I redo the router table, I’ll probably use MDF and top it with Formica or something similar. It didn’t turn out too badly, though.

David, the saw doesn’t get moved much anymore… cars live in the driveway now. But the balance of the saw was not adversely impacted as far as I could tell. There’s considerable mass in the saw to keep it from being tippy. I did always collapse the outfeed table before moving it, though.

Thanks guys for the interest. :)

-- John, BC, Canada

View Tomj's profile

Tomj

204 posts in 979 days


#13 posted 713 days ago

Thanks for the info. Yes I couldn’t tell from the picture, to me it looks pretty clean. I’m not sure if I’ll go the MDF and laminate route, if I can source a good price on laminate then yes. The router table extension does look good though. I have the same saw myself. Thanks again.

View jm8's profile

jm8

64 posts in 909 days


#14 posted 713 days ago

Awesome job John. I too have limited work space in my cellar and have been thinking of doing the same, you just inspired me more. Thanks again.
Also like your cordless tool cabinet. I see you have many drills, as I do. My wife can’t understand why I need so many drills. I try to explain, but she just doesn’t get it:)

Peace to all

-- Joe from Western Ma.... Peace to all

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2827 posts in 846 days


#15 posted 713 days ago

That looks awesome. For some reason your insert looks a lot bigger than mine. Did you fit it in the standard “hole” that was there, or is it modified at all?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#16 posted 713 days ago

Thanks guys!

Joe, I used the standard space available without adjusting the rails. The overall dimensions of the router table is 14 5/8” W x 27” D.

-- John, BC, Canada

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2827 posts in 846 days


#17 posted 713 days ago

Mine is the same dimensions, yours looks so much bigger though.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View James 's profile

James

138 posts in 1523 days


#18 posted 713 days ago

Hi John,
Checked out your page and really like your setup. it looks like you still have the stock fence on the table saw but added some faces to it.

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#19 posted 713 days ago

Joe, yeah I think the perspective of the picture is creating an optical illusion there… :)

jmaichel, thanks! I do still have the stock fence and have indeed added a sacrificial fence to the TS side and a split fence to the router table side. The stock fence is not great, but through some tedious adjustments I was able to get it to lock down square in a reasonably repeatable manner. I also like the t-slots built into the fence, makes it easy to attach jigs and such. All that said—if I was going to make one upgrade to the saw at this point, it would be a new fence. More likely though, I will keep it as is until I upgrade the saw at some point.

-- John, BC, Canada

View James 's profile

James

138 posts in 1523 days


#20 posted 713 days ago

Hi John,
I am thinking that if I do get this saw that I will just order the Delta T-2 fence at the same time and not even attach the stock fence.

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2827 posts in 846 days


#21 posted 713 days ago

The T2 is a nice upgrade, but not an easy one. You will be doing some drilling and modification

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Aaron's profile

Aaron

14 posts in 320 days


#22 posted 314 days ago

Old post I know, but this has really inspired me to make an outfeed for my new r4512. A few questions:

1. What lumber did you use to frame the underside of the melamine (oak?) And I see a small block close to the table side on your second picture, does this have a purpose?

2. How did you secure the framing to the melamine? I don’t see screws so I assume glue and finish nails. I ask because in the past i had to worry about putting nails or screws through a material into a melamine coated piece for fear of a dent or puncture on the surface.

Thanks!

Aaron

View lathakumar's profile

lathakumar

18 posts in 350 days


#23 posted 314 days ago

Its looks very nice.And then look very different.

-- http://saiinstitutes.in

View jonah's profile

jonah

440 posts in 1896 days


#24 posted 314 days ago

I like the look and design of the router table insert. Any chance of higher resolution pictures of it from various angles?

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#25 posted 312 days ago

Aaron—I think I just used SPF 1×4 scraps on the underside of the table. The edges are trimmed in red oak. Heh… you’re the first to comment on the “extra” block under the table. That was a rookie mistake that I never bothered to correct. Framing was glued with PL construction adhesive. I used brads on the oak trim but not on the framing underneath, if i recall correctly. Hope that helps.

Jonah, I’ll check to see if I have any better pics of the router table and if I do, I’ll post them here.

Thanks for the comments, guys. Been a while since I looked at this thread (my first ever to LJs…)

-- John, BC, Canada

View jonah's profile

jonah

440 posts in 1896 days


#26 posted 312 days ago

Some other questions about the router table.

What kind of plate did you use?
How did you cut the opening?
Anything you’d do differently about that process?

I’ve been toying with making my own router table/insert similar to yours, but have held off because of how finicky fitting the plate properly would be.

View DW833's profile

DW833

47 posts in 480 days


#27 posted 248 days ago

Great add on for the table saw. I’m planning my router table extension now.
Need to determine where to position t track and insert.
How far from edge is the t track and how far is insert from t track?

View carver1942's profile

carver1942

85 posts in 302 days


#28 posted 248 days ago

Hi John
Great job. I also have a Ridgid 4512 and after seeing your fine out feed table I will be making one soon. Thanks for sharing your idea. Ed

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 884 days


#29 posted 248 days ago

Thanks fellas. I haven’t checked this thread in a while.

Jonah, I used a router with an edge guide to cut the inset for the router plate. Once I had the outline cut, I just cut the waste out with a jig saw. I took my time with the router and snuck up on the final fit. The only thing I guess I would have done differently is used something other than melamine coated particle board, as the melamine chipped out a bit when I made the router cuts. Maybe use a double layer of MDF with a Formica top layer? Oh, and it was a Bench Dog Pro Plate.

DW833, sorry I don’t have the router table any more so I don’t have the exact dimensions. I set the plate back in the table to give myself plenty of table space to support the workpiece as it was being cut, and then set the miter track close enough to the plate for a feather board to work effectively. Hope that helps.

Ed, thanks and good luck with your project.

-- John, BC, Canada

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