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View SmartCutter's profile

How do you identify the parts you cut?

by SmartCutter
posted 01-05-2012 07:40 AM


30 replies so far

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1166 posts in 1513 days


#1 posted 01-05-2012 07:45 AM

I think that would be a good feature.

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View doordude's profile

doordude

1085 posts in 1637 days


#2 posted 01-05-2012 07:50 AM

i just mark with a pencil. but if you’re a smart cutter ;) you might like the labels, but what about when you’re sanding parts, is it easy peel off label and reattach?

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2337 posts in 1537 days


#3 posted 01-05-2012 07:51 AM

soft leaded carpenter’s pencil

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View SmartCutter's profile

SmartCutter

24 posts in 1052 days


#4 posted 01-05-2012 07:59 AM

But if you are sanding parts, wouldn’t the pencil marking fade away with the sanding as well? With the label sticker idea, you can just peel it off with the sander, then print another copy of the labels to stick on the sanded parts afterwards. Are there any better ideas?

-- Get Optimal Cuts from your iPad - Carpenter Pro: http://goo.gl/U6FVJ

View Loren's profile

Loren

7556 posts in 2302 days


#5 posted 01-05-2012 08:14 AM

I mark the ends with a crayon, or chalk if the wood is dark.

You can’t get fancy with a crayon so I use numbers and letters
like A1, A2, B1, B2 and so forth. My cutlist tells me what the
numbers mean.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View SmartCutter's profile

SmartCutter

24 posts in 1052 days


#6 posted 01-05-2012 08:22 AM

So If the cutlist software allows you to print X quantity of label stickers for each part according to the cutlist layout, with the part label & dimensions printed on the label, would this be better than the pencil/crayon/chalk manual marking approach?

Another idea is to print the color of each part label differently, so if you have a color printer, that would make it even easier to identify each part from a distance by looking at the label color.

For the lable size, 2x1 should be good enough to stick at the part’s corner.

-- Get Optimal Cuts from your iPad - Carpenter Pro: http://goo.gl/U6FVJ

View BAKTHAVATHSAL KADAMBI's profile

BAKTHAVATHSAL KADAMBI

159 posts in 989 days


#7 posted 01-05-2012 08:56 AM

Where the parts are getting sanded only on one side, then the sticker could be fixed on the other side.

But I adopt a different way of using stickers,

i put stickers in the edges of pieces being joined together, with matching numbers written on them with permanent markers.

This way, I also find it easier to decide, which side to be sanded and which side gets lamination, without sanding.

-- ALPHA-ZEE CREATIONS

View Pete_Jud's profile

Pete_Jud

423 posts in 2407 days


#8 posted 01-05-2012 09:07 AM

I use a lot of chalk in the shop. Sands off easy, and cheap.

-- Life is to short to own an ugly boat.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7556 posts in 2302 days


#9 posted 01-05-2012 10:50 AM

Part id stickers are are used bigger shops. They also use barcodes
in some cases. I would use stickers if the cutlist software interfaced
with Sketchup. If I had to enter my data for the cutlist manually,
I probably wouldn’t use the stickers much.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1009 days


#10 posted 01-05-2012 11:00 AM

Well, define large cutlists.

Usually if I need to keep track of parts, I will write what it is on the edge grain, if it’s plywood it won’t be visible, if it’s wood, then I can sand it away when I sand the edges easily enough. But honestly in most cases, just working by myself, I know what the part is, no one is going to move it, mix pieces together, or anything else. If I have questions, I just measure and look at my cutlists.

The danger with a sticker is that they are adhesive, if you leave them there too long, then you’re going to end up having to clean the sticker off because it will attach itself. If you do use a tape, get a low tack tape, it will take longer to stick itself permanently, and it won’t pull the veneers on thin veneered plywoods like even blue or green tape will. (Low tack is typically white, and will cost a little more than the normal painters tapes, and will be marked in some method as low tack.)

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Les 's profile

Les

199 posts in 1345 days


#11 posted 01-05-2012 01:39 PM

Blue painters tape, then write on that. It leaves no residue and removes and reapplies easily. I write on it with a black marker.

Les

-- Stay busy....Stay young

View Dan's profile

Dan

45 posts in 992 days


#12 posted 01-05-2012 01:47 PM

blue tape with pen and lots of chaulk; all easy clean up and no finishing issues.

-- Dan Stine, Galion Ohio

View SmartCutter's profile

SmartCutter

24 posts in 1052 days


#13 posted 01-05-2012 03:55 PM

So if there were printing paper that is made of blue painters tape, then the cutlist app would simply print all parts labels & dimensions onto this paper, that would be the ideal solution.

Otherwise, regular label sticker printing paper would have to do, as long as you don’t plan on leaving the stickers on the parts for too long.

I’m convinced… I think I’ll go ahead and implement this feature for the next release of Carpenter Pro.

-- Get Optimal Cuts from your iPad - Carpenter Pro: http://goo.gl/U6FVJ

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2906 posts in 1141 days


#14 posted 01-05-2012 03:59 PM

I identify parts I cut like this:

Finger

Knuckle

Elbow

Gizzard

Sorry, I just couldn’t help it. The topic struck me as odd, especially after a night of little sleep.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1577 days


#15 posted 01-05-2012 04:12 PM

Chalk cheap and sand off easily

-- Life is good.

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

13540 posts in 1329 days


#16 posted 01-06-2012 01:15 AM

If the parts are the wrong dimensions, Then anybody can identify them as mine

I think I have a similar affliction as Dallas!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1074 days


#17 posted 01-06-2012 01:30 AM

I usually use a two letter memonic name for the part type and then the cabinet number.

e.g. TO 5 is the Top for Cabinet #5

I mark the edges with a black sharpie as they come off the CNC machine.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112089 posts in 2231 days


#18 posted 01-06-2012 02:21 AM

another blue tape and pencil.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View dannelson's profile

dannelson

147 posts in 1025 days


#19 posted 01-06-2012 03:05 AM

I use the lables for plywood parts only . I look at the cutlist print out by sheet number = plywood sheet and apply them to the approx location on the plywood and cut it on the cnc. for faceframes it chalk based on the finish size of the cabinet. (B31 UP36 )you can figure out where it goes pretty easy

-- nelson woodcrafters

View MoshupTrail's profile

MoshupTrail

292 posts in 1135 days


#20 posted 01-06-2012 03:18 AM

If you were manufacturing a kit to be assembled by the purchaser it would be very professional to have all the parts nicely labeled with removable stickers.

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 1924 days


#21 posted 01-06-2012 04:26 AM

Blue/masking tape (I will also use gaffer’s tape when the wood is especially hard to stick the tape too…..and a pencil/pen. If there are alot of items….I might use some colored dot stickers to group the pieces (I put the dot on the endgrain). Too much work to print a label…then stick to the part – especially if there are alot of parts.

I also use the tape to indicate the joining edges, the top or inside and various other important considerations. Printing all those kinds of labels would take alot of extra time….not to mention remembering to remove all of them before sanding or applying finish. I would be worried about stickers that might leave residue that would compromise a stain or oil finish.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1580 days


#22 posted 01-06-2012 05:21 AM

I mark mine on ends with heavy pencil, using same method Jim Tolpin explains in his books.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View Viking's profile

Viking

857 posts in 1849 days


#23 posted 01-09-2012 03:38 AM

I do my preliminary designs with good old paper and pencil on a drafting table. Once I am happy with the dimensions I start creating a cut list with the rough dimension of parts and give each part a corresponding number. As I cut each part I mark the P/N on back along with key information like top, bottom, right, left, upper, lower, etc. This information stays on the part until assembly. If pre- assembly sanding has to be done I make a blue tape tag that goes back on the part until assembly.

There have been more than a few times that I have picked up a part and cut off the wrong end due to not marking and indexing.

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

View SmartCutter's profile

SmartCutter

24 posts in 1052 days


#24 posted 01-12-2012 01:51 PM

Well, based on the feedback, I went ahead and added the “Parts Stickers & Labels” feature to my cutlist app “Carpenter Pro” so now you should be able to auto generate barcode size 2×1 colored stickers for all parts in the cutlist. The colored stickers will show part name, dimensions, color (as specified in the cutlist) and the wood grain direction for the part relative to its dimensions, just as a final check. Here are some examples of these colored stickers:

-- Get Optimal Cuts from your iPad - Carpenter Pro: http://goo.gl/U6FVJ

View juniorjock's profile

juniorjock

1930 posts in 2420 days


#25 posted 03-08-2012 02:27 AM

-

View onlinelabels's profile

onlinelabels

2 posts in 586 days


#26 posted 02-10-2013 12:43 PM

SmartCutter – Do you have the specific configuration specs of the label sheet that you have displayed in your post?

I work at OnlineLabels.com and I would like to offer that sheet configuration as one of our standard label sheet sizes at OnlineLabels.com.

Here is a 2 x 1 label sheet configuration, but I’m not sure if it lays out exactly the same as your format -

Here are all the current standard label sizes at OnlineLabels.com

Let me know.

Dave Carmany

-- Dave Carmany, http://www.onlinelabels.com

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

690 posts in 827 days


#27 posted 02-10-2013 01:03 PM

I use a pencil on the unseen side. It sands off easily when I want it off and leaves no residue.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2528 posts in 1005 days


#28 posted 02-10-2013 03:07 PM

I use a lumber crayon.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1317 posts in 911 days


#29 posted 02-11-2013 04:20 AM

I use a black Sharpie on an area that won’t be seen, like the top of the leg, the end of a tenon, etc. That also helps me keep track of the orientation of the part.

-- Art

View mbs's profile

mbs

1438 posts in 1594 days


#30 posted 02-11-2013 05:24 AM

I’ve used stickers before that printed automatically from my cabinet software. The type of sticker I used was very sticky and difficult to get off at times. Blue tape works well.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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