All Replies on Pop Quiz - How would you make this cut?

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Pop Quiz - How would you make this cut?

by live4ever
posted 01-02-2012 08:50 AM

45 replies so far

View derosa's profile


1577 posts in 2829 days

#1 posted 01-02-2012 08:53 AM

I would cut that on the bandsaw. Being that small I might try the scroll saw but I don’t know if it goes to that angle. Bandsaw seems safest otherwise.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2078 posts in 2633 days

#2 posted 01-02-2012 10:47 AM

I would tilt the bed on the Ridgid sander to 45 degrees, slide the miter gauge into the track (to give me something to hold it against straight), then gently feed it into the belt until I see it reach the top corner. Total time about 30 seconds. Fingers (and the skin that covers them): intact.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View Nighthawk's profile


556 posts in 2350 days

#3 posted 01-02-2012 10:50 AM

Depends on the wood hard or softwood… but most likely I would go to the band saw (if I had one…) but in this case since that it is still on my wish list (but hopefull for not to much longer… the scroll saw would also work… being so small a cut possible hand cut it… but it depends what the part was for and how accurate I have to be with the cut.

However I would have most likely put the bevel on it before it was cut down to (converting imperial to metric and back again) ermmmm size and most likely on the table saw with a jig or even mitre saw, and then cut my shape…

-- Rome wasn't built in a day... but I wasn't on that job? ...

View Gary's profile


9331 posts in 3426 days

#4 posted 01-02-2012 11:21 AM

I have a sliding jig I use on the TS for small cuts. Guess I’d use that

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View miles125's profile


2180 posts in 3999 days

#5 posted 01-02-2012 12:00 PM

I’d do the bevel on the jointer to long lengths before ever cutting them into 2” long pieces.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

10476 posts in 3422 days

#6 posted 01-02-2012 03:20 PM

Router table, long stock (or a small parts holder) and a 45 bevel bit.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Alan Robertson's profile

Alan Robertson

66 posts in 3912 days

#7 posted 01-02-2012 03:21 PM

Table saw.

-- MrAl

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


15341 posts in 2612 days

#8 posted 01-02-2012 03:24 PM

Mark it with a gauge, plane with a cambered #5 until close, finish with a smoothing plane. 90 seconds or less, no safety concerns.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View bent's profile


311 posts in 3663 days

#9 posted 01-02-2012 03:25 PM


View kizerpea's profile


774 posts in 2361 days

#10 posted 01-02-2012 03:33 PM

table saw…push stick..or custom push board..more than one way to skin a cat!


View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4212 days

#11 posted 01-02-2012 03:34 PM

I can’t answer without know how deep of a cut we’re talking about. If it’s fairly shallow, I would do it on the router table with a 45 degree chamfering bit.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View ChuckV's profile


3118 posts in 3521 days

#12 posted 01-02-2012 03:45 PM

If possible, I would have beveled it on the TS before the piece was cut so small.

Otherwise, I would use a hand plane.

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View bunkie's profile


412 posts in 3140 days

#13 posted 01-02-2012 03:50 PM

I would hot-melt glue the workpiece to a longer board and cut it on the tablesaw.

-- Altruism is, ultimately, self-serving

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3068 days

#14 posted 01-02-2012 04:25 PM

Others have said that they would make the 45 cut while the piece were still bigger and cut it down to size later. I agree with that. But sometimes that is not an option. Hence I offer how I would do it if I did not have the option of making the cut earlier.

I would cut a scrap piece of larger wood with a 45-degree angle, clamp that piece to the sled for my TS and clamp the small piece to the scrap block I had made.

Also – by drilling a hole into the scrap piece, I would be able to securely clamp the small piece to the scrap piece using a clamp like this

Note, these clamps are handy for a number of applications other than just adding a sacrificial board to your TS fence.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3642 days

#15 posted 01-02-2012 04:30 PM

router table with a 45/bevel cutter and a push block/sled. since it’s just 3/4” thick material this would be the easiest, safest, and cleanest cut

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Woodmaster1's profile


954 posts in 2581 days

#16 posted 01-02-2012 04:33 PM

I would use a miter box and a back saw. Nothing wrong with using hand tools when the needed.

View CampD's profile


1658 posts in 3480 days

#17 posted 01-02-2012 04:38 PM

If I knew that I needed that cut and size of piece at the begining of the project.
I would first cut the 45 on the miter saw and then to length,
If realizing I needed a chamfer on that small of piece I would attach it to a sacarificial board (either double sided tape or hot melt) and then cut it on the miter saw.
or lastly, hand plan it.

-- Doug...

View KnickKnack's profile


1088 posts in 3560 days

#18 posted 01-02-2012 06:15 PM

I think I’d use this jig.

-- "Do not speak – unless it improves on silence." --- "Following the rules and protecting the regulations is binding oneself without rope."

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2963 days

#19 posted 01-02-2012 07:07 PM

Put it up against the fence, hold securely, raise the blade into the piece. Practice run first to make sure you won’t cut your fingers off.

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 2917 days

#20 posted 01-02-2012 07:14 PM

Table saw.

-- Life is good.

View JJohnston's profile


1622 posts in 3285 days

#21 posted 01-02-2012 07:36 PM

If bevelling it when it’s bigger isn’t an option, I’d grab any piece of sheet good about a foot long and 6” wide, and a scrap of 3/4×2x6 or so. First rip a parallel edge onto the 12” long piece with the blade at 90. Then screw the second piece to it. Square up the far edge of this piece to the ripped edge. Put it about mid-length. Tilt the blade to your bevel angle and rip a little more off, so you get the angle on both pieces. Place the workpiece along the far edge of the cross piece, lined up so the previously cut edge is right where you want the cut, secure it with a quick-grip clamp and make the cut. This is just a quick and dirty throwaway panel sled.

-- "A man may conduct himself well in both adversity and good fortune, but if you want to test his character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

View jusfine's profile


2422 posts in 2919 days

#22 posted 01-02-2012 07:57 PM

If it is solid material, tablesaw then jointer, maybe the bandsaw then jointer.

I misread the info, thought it was 2’ x 2”when I first answered. too small for jointer, would use hand plane instead.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View nbistecche's profile


40 posts in 2335 days

#23 posted 01-02-2012 08:11 PM

table saw. if too unsafe, disc sander, tiliting the table of course.

-- measure once, cut twice.

View jumbojack's profile


1676 posts in 2618 days

#24 posted 01-02-2012 09:30 PM

Table saw with sled. Simple, accurate, safe and fast.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View ShopTinker's profile


884 posts in 2762 days

#25 posted 01-02-2012 09:34 PM

I’d put a small clamp on it for a handle, to control the piece after the cut, use a scrap piece to push it through the table saw.

-- Dan - Valparaiso, Indiana, "A smart man changes his mind, a fool never does."

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2963 days

#26 posted 01-02-2012 11:53 PM

Sorry folks, I seem to have a stalker

View Newage Neanderthal's profile

Newage Neanderthal

190 posts in 2544 days

#27 posted 01-03-2012 12:05 AM

Mark it, scrub close to the line, hit line with smoother with straight iron

-- . @NANeanderthal on twitter

View StumpyNubs's profile


7587 posts in 2794 days

#28 posted 01-03-2012 01:28 AM

I run small stuff like that through the table saw by using a scrap board with a screw through it. But that only works if the screw hole you will leave in one side of the piece can be hidden. Otherwise I would use a bandsaw to get it close and a handplane jig to make it perfect.

(I followed the dierections and didn’t read any other comments, hope I didn’t make myself look like a moron…)

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications:

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2648 days

#29 posted 01-03-2012 03:39 AM

A 3/4” thick 2×2? That sounds a little odd actually. Did I miss something on the dimensions in the original post?

If it is a 3/4” thick board 2” wide, I would rough cut it on the bandsaw using the bandsaw fence as a holder/guide for the piece and then do a finishing pass on the jointer with the fence tilted 45 degrees.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View paratrooper34's profile


915 posts in 2945 days

#30 posted 01-03-2012 03:43 AM

mitre vise and block plane.

-- Mike

View SignWave's profile


440 posts in 3029 days

#31 posted 01-03-2012 09:23 PM

For variety:
table saw + fence + Grripper.

-- Barry,

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2669 days

#32 posted 01-03-2012 10:46 PM

I would throw that 2” piece int he scrap box and get a larger piece to make the cut on. then cut it to 2”. I just wouldn’t cut a piece (or joint) that small. Too many things can happen too fast.

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3328 days

#33 posted 01-04-2012 04:06 PM

Just cut it with the bandsaw with the workpiece standing on end and the table flat at 90 degrees to the blade.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 2977 days

#34 posted 01-06-2012 05:33 PM

If I had only one piece to cut. I would just clamp it to the fence on the RAS or SCMS to make the cut.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View Jacob Lucas's profile

Jacob Lucas

100 posts in 2425 days

#35 posted 01-06-2012 05:58 PM

On something so small I’d use the jointer set at 45 degrees, its pretty dummy proof. It it was bigger I’d go to the table saw.

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2718 posts in 3280 days

#36 posted 01-06-2012 11:33 PM

I would rip a longer board, cut the 45 on the table saw, and then cut the 2” length. Even if I totally waste material, it sure beats “wasting” my finger.

The other alternative would be to clamp it in my table saw sled, but I could do it much faster with the first method.

(I did not look at anyone elses answer before responding—now I am going to go back and look)


View bandit571's profile


19956 posts in 2677 days

#37 posted 01-06-2012 11:54 PM

masking tape to hold it to a waste piece, clamp both to the fence on the miter saw. Turn blade table to 45 degrees, chop down. Clean up the good piece.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View JSilverman's profile


89 posts in 2607 days

#38 posted 01-07-2012 12:15 AM

I would cut the bevel on a 2” wide long board, then cross cut 2” pieces off of that

View ChuckV's profile


3118 posts in 3521 days

#39 posted 01-07-2012 02:12 AM

I believe that the minimum board length for my jointer is 10”.

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View Norman1's profile


121 posts in 2761 days

#40 posted 01-07-2012 03:54 AM

I would make the cut with my band saw by tilting the saw table and using a clamped piece of scrap as a guide fence. Once the cut is complete I would hand plane the two pieces until I’m happy with the fit and finish.

-- Michael A. Norman

View Tomj's profile


204 posts in 2375 days

#41 posted 01-07-2012 04:21 AM

I was in this situation not to long ago for a french cleat I was going to use for a towel rack. I just super glued it to a wider board and cut it on my table saw. A little sanding and and it was like the super glue had never been there. Although the super glue could mess up your finish so glue at your own risk.

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2669 days

#42 posted 01-07-2012 06:27 AM

BTW for you guys that suggested the jointer – the safety rules say you should never try to joint any board shorter than 12 inches long….just saying.

View Moron's profile


5032 posts in 3887 days

#43 posted 01-07-2012 06:40 AM

if its one edge………cut on the TS, then re-cut to length

small pieces…….on a sled jig, with a router/table/shaper/TS

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View Manitario's profile


2630 posts in 2877 days

#44 posted 01-07-2012 06:59 AM

Really good topic; I’m embarrassed to admit that I’ve tried such a cut on my MS in the past, and almost cut my fingers off doing so. I think I’d probably try and plan to bevel a longer piece eg. 6”x2” and then cut it to 2” long. If I absolutely had to cut it when it was 2×2, I’d use a handsaw.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View bandit571's profile


19956 posts in 2677 days

#45 posted 01-08-2012 07:13 PM

IF the 45 bevel is along an EDGE grain, just my handplane will do. Mark the bevel on each end, and connect across the “face”. Clamp up in a vise, with just enough room to work the plane. Start at the waste’s corner, and plane down until all the lines are split. A nice , smooth bevel cut, ready to go…...where?

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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