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View ChesapeakeBob's profile

Running hardwood thru planer?

by ChesapeakeBob
posted 11-26-2011 11:36 PM


28 replies so far

View bent's profile

bent

311 posts in 2358 days


#1 posted 11-26-2011 11:41 PM

maybe to raise the grain on the board, or cut down on dust?

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112323 posts in 2266 days


#2 posted 11-26-2011 11:44 PM

It’s a good trick to use on highly figured wood to help prevent tear out.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3498 posts in 2649 days


#3 posted 11-26-2011 11:53 PM

It’ll work. Just allow the wood to dry before ya run it. Don’t want to run wet wood thru the ‘chine. That’ll make a mess.
It raises the grain, but then cuts off what is raised. Think that you’ll have to do it again after planing/staining before sanding the final surface? Yep.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112323 posts in 2266 days


#4 posted 11-26-2011 11:58 PM

Hate to disagree but the wet wood is what keeps the wood from tearing out.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1266 days


#5 posted 11-27-2011 12:36 AM

Yep, that’s what I learned as well Jim.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Charles Maxwell's profile

Charles Maxwell

967 posts in 2496 days


#6 posted 11-27-2011 12:42 AM

I never knew! Thanks. Will test on my planer with my next piece of figured wood.

-- Max the "night janitor" at www.hardwoodclocks.com

View usnret's profile

usnret

184 posts in 1197 days


#7 posted 11-27-2011 12:57 AM

Like Jim said for figured wood wet it before you plane it. You dont soak the wood just use a damp cloth on the wood to get the surface moist before you plane it. Works like a charm, I have done this and no problems with my portable planer.

-- Chief Petty Officer USN(RET) 1991-2011

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2433 days


#8 posted 11-27-2011 12:59 AM

I used this method a lot when planing ash, with all of it’s crazy grain directions. Since I changed over to the Shelix head on my planer, I don’t have to worry about it. And yes, you don’t want to let the board dry out, or it won’t do any good.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112323 posts in 2266 days


#9 posted 11-27-2011 01:00 AM

Another good point is since I’ve owned a spiral head planner I haven’t found it necessary to wet figured wood to stop tear out.
Opps looks like Tim and I were posting the same time ,I didn’t mean to repeat his comment..

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View MNWOODWORKER's profile

MNWOODWORKER

105 posts in 2274 days


#10 posted 11-27-2011 07:55 AM

I have done it with pretty good results on figured wood, but since getting a drum sander figured wood never meets my planer.

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2231 days


#11 posted 11-27-2011 08:28 AM

used that technique today with some hard rock maple….works great

-- Childress Woodworks

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1739 days


#12 posted 11-27-2011 10:53 AM

I’m planing pommelle sapele tonight with a DW 735, and even with fresh blades and a light cut, it looked like
it had been hit with shotgun pellets. I remembered this trick, and as that Navy guy ( thanks for your service, and do all the boats still have those little round windows?) and Jim said, don’t soak it. Moisten with a cloth, run at an angle, and Most of the tear-out will be gone.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2364 posts in 1650 days


#13 posted 11-27-2011 09:27 PM

“do all the boats still have those little round windows?) ”
Never saw one on a submarine. Interesting thread as I have some pecan to plane this winter.

View tamboti's profile

tamboti

207 posts in 1830 days


#14 posted 11-28-2011 01:31 PM

Hi I use parrafine as it is inert and dries quite quickly does not affect the wood in any way, learnt this from some full time carvers who were carving hard wood chair legs. Regards Roger in RSA

-- Africa is not for sissies

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

391 posts in 1693 days


#15 posted 11-12-2012 01:19 AM

I just love reading about how dumb I am.

I searched “planing wet wood” to see if that’s why I had such a hard time tonight with simple 2x material. I tried planing it both ways when I saw tearout and still got terrible results on most the boards.

My theory: maybe they had too much moisture? Apparently, that ain’t the case.

So now my theory is dull blades? Which is irritating since they’re new … except I ran a bunch of reclaimed maple treads through them (with finish). I think that must have killed them.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7734 posts in 2337 days


#16 posted 11-12-2012 01:28 AM

I only do it if the wood is tearing out. It generally
helps reduce tear out but as a habitual practice
on all hardwoods it6 would be mostly just adding
extra labor to the milling process. A lot of wet
chips might clog ducting too.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2959 posts in 975 days


#17 posted 11-12-2012 01:38 AM

That’s a good trick to know about getting it wet to keep the figured stuff intact. I take off so little at a time on my planer that it probably wont matter anyway.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1807 posts in 877 days


#18 posted 11-12-2012 01:46 AM

Hate to jump in here but I’m learning.

A gent over at woodcraft said I should use rubbing alcohol on the wood to raise the grain a last time before staining. I haven’t tried that.

In my mind – that would prevent the rust problem with the planer. Then again, an out of control flash fire might be the result.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11664 posts in 2377 days


#19 posted 11-12-2012 01:52 AM

I also moisten figured lumber as I get it closer to the finished thickness to reduce / prevent tear out.
I’ve used both water and also mineral spirits with good results : )
Water is cheaper though ! LOL

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112323 posts in 2266 days


#20 posted 11-12-2012 02:05 AM

Mark
I don’t think Alcohol raises the grain much if at all. Just because someone works at Woodcraft doesn’t mean they know what their talking about. There’s no reason not to use a little water to raise the woods grain .

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

391 posts in 1693 days


#21 posted 11-12-2012 02:07 AM

Hmm. I’ve heard about the alcohol trick quite a few times, including a few woodworking shows.

Supposed to raise it a bit so you can knock it down one last time w/o interfering with the finish you’re about to apply.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11664 posts in 2377 days


#22 posted 11-12-2012 02:13 AM

If anything , alcohol would remove any moisture that was left on the surface. Might raise the grain slightly.
No , wait …he typed “rubbing” alcohol….which contains some water which varies depending on which strength it is,
ie: 70% or 91%. Might as well just use H2O : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112323 posts in 2266 days


#23 posted 11-12-2012 03:25 AM

I had never tried Alcohol for raising grain before ,so I just tried it on some maple and oak ,I could not detect any grain raising but perhaps someone else has ?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Tedster's profile

Tedster

2271 posts in 900 days


#24 posted 11-12-2012 03:57 AM

When I strip paint or finish from wood, I use alcohol as a final rinse specifically because it does not raise the grain.

-- I support the 28th Amendment. http://www.wolf-pac.com/28th

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11664 posts in 2377 days


#25 posted 11-12-2012 04:54 AM

Ted , what kind of alcohol do you use ? This guy is referring to rubbing alcohol.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1807 posts in 877 days


#26 posted 11-13-2012 03:21 AM

Interesting, the guy definately said rubbing alcohol. By the same token, he led me wrong in a big way once before. I’m not holding it against the guy but I’m checking with you all before I take his advice again. He’s real nice and likes to chat. Anyhow, I learned some good stuff from this thread. Thank you much!

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

391 posts in 1693 days


#27 posted 11-13-2012 02:43 PM

I can find thousands of hits for “raising wood grain with alcohol”. In them, they talk about isopropyl (sp?), rubbing and denatured.

I just skimmed several of them and people are definitely claiming it works for them personally. It’s also in an article on Popular Woodworking.

I think it warrants experimenting if you want to find “your truth”. ;)

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2842 posts in 937 days


#28 posted 11-13-2012 02:52 PM

Weird. I’ve always heard and witnessed the opposite. As Ted stated, I use DNA when I DO NOT want to raise the grain but clean off sanding dust or anything else.

Jim, great tip on the figured wood! Does wetting heavily interlocked grain or woods that tear out no matter what you do (purpleheart, bloodwood) help with planing also?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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