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All Replies on Running hardwood thru planer?

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View ChesapeakeBob's profile

Running hardwood thru planer?

by ChesapeakeBob
posted 976 days ago


28 replies so far

View bent's profile

bent

311 posts in 2272 days


#1 posted 976 days ago

maybe to raise the grain on the board, or cut down on dust?

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#2 posted 976 days ago

It’s a good trick to use on highly figured wood to help prevent tear out.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3351 posts in 2563 days


#3 posted 976 days ago

It’ll work. Just allow the wood to dry before ya run it. Don’t want to run wet wood thru the ‘chine. That’ll make a mess.
It raises the grain, but then cuts off what is raised. Think that you’ll have to do it again after planing/staining before sanding the final surface? Yep.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#4 posted 976 days ago

Hate to disagree but the wet wood is what keeps the wood from tearing out.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1180 days


#5 posted 976 days ago

Yep, that’s what I learned as well Jim.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Charles Maxwell's profile

Charles Maxwell

941 posts in 2410 days


#6 posted 976 days ago

I never knew! Thanks. Will test on my planer with my next piece of figured wood.

-- Max the "night janitor" at www.hardwoodclocks.com

View usnret's profile

usnret

184 posts in 1111 days


#7 posted 976 days ago

Like Jim said for figured wood wet it before you plane it. You dont soak the wood just use a damp cloth on the wood to get the surface moist before you plane it. Works like a charm, I have done this and no problems with my portable planer.

-- Chief Petty Officer USN(RET) 1991-2011

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2347 days


#8 posted 976 days ago

I used this method a lot when planing ash, with all of it’s crazy grain directions. Since I changed over to the Shelix head on my planer, I don’t have to worry about it. And yes, you don’t want to let the board dry out, or it won’t do any good.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#9 posted 976 days ago

Another good point is since I’ve owned a spiral head planner I haven’t found it necessary to wet figured wood to stop tear out.
Opps looks like Tim and I were posting the same time ,I didn’t mean to repeat his comment..

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View MNWOODWORKER's profile

MNWOODWORKER

105 posts in 2188 days


#10 posted 976 days ago

I have done it with pretty good results on figured wood, but since getting a drum sander figured wood never meets my planer.

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2145 days


#11 posted 976 days ago

used that technique today with some hard rock maple….works great

-- Childress Woodworks

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1654 days


#12 posted 976 days ago

I’m planing pommelle sapele tonight with a DW 735, and even with fresh blades and a light cut, it looked like
it had been hit with shotgun pellets. I remembered this trick, and as that Navy guy ( thanks for your service, and do all the boats still have those little round windows?) and Jim said, don’t soak it. Moisten with a cloth, run at an angle, and Most of the tear-out will be gone.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2345 posts in 1564 days


#13 posted 975 days ago

“do all the boats still have those little round windows?) ”
Never saw one on a submarine. Interesting thread as I have some pecan to plane this winter.

View tamboti's profile

tamboti

207 posts in 1745 days


#14 posted 975 days ago

Hi I use parrafine as it is inert and dries quite quickly does not affect the wood in any way, learnt this from some full time carvers who were carving hard wood chair legs. Regards Roger in RSA

-- Africa is not for sissies

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

389 posts in 1607 days


#15 posted 625 days ago

I just love reading about how dumb I am.

I searched “planing wet wood” to see if that’s why I had such a hard time tonight with simple 2x material. I tried planing it both ways when I saw tearout and still got terrible results on most the boards.

My theory: maybe they had too much moisture? Apparently, that ain’t the case.

So now my theory is dull blades? Which is irritating since they’re new … except I ran a bunch of reclaimed maple treads through them (with finish). I think that must have killed them.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7265 posts in 2251 days


#16 posted 625 days ago

I only do it if the wood is tearing out. It generally
helps reduce tear out but as a habitual practice
on all hardwoods it6 would be mostly just adding
extra labor to the milling process. A lot of wet
chips might clog ducting too.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 890 days


#17 posted 625 days ago

That’s a good trick to know about getting it wet to keep the figured stuff intact. I take off so little at a time on my planer that it probably wont matter anyway.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1732 posts in 791 days


#18 posted 625 days ago

Hate to jump in here but I’m learning.

A gent over at woodcraft said I should use rubbing alcohol on the wood to raise the grain a last time before staining. I haven’t tried that.

In my mind – that would prevent the rust problem with the planer. Then again, an out of control flash fire might be the result.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11639 posts in 2291 days


#19 posted 625 days ago

I also moisten figured lumber as I get it closer to the finished thickness to reduce / prevent tear out.
I’ve used both water and also mineral spirits with good results : )
Water is cheaper though ! LOL

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#20 posted 625 days ago

Mark
I don’t think Alcohol raises the grain much if at all. Just because someone works at Woodcraft doesn’t mean they know what their talking about. There’s no reason not to use a little water to raise the woods grain .

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

389 posts in 1607 days


#21 posted 625 days ago

Hmm. I’ve heard about the alcohol trick quite a few times, including a few woodworking shows.

Supposed to raise it a bit so you can knock it down one last time w/o interfering with the finish you’re about to apply.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11639 posts in 2291 days


#22 posted 625 days ago

If anything , alcohol would remove any moisture that was left on the surface. Might raise the grain slightly.
No , wait …he typed “rubbing” alcohol….which contains some water which varies depending on which strength it is,
ie: 70% or 91%. Might as well just use H2O : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#23 posted 625 days ago

I had never tried Alcohol for raising grain before ,so I just tried it on some maple and oak ,I could not detect any grain raising but perhaps someone else has ?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Tedster's profile

Tedster

2270 posts in 814 days


#24 posted 625 days ago

When I strip paint or finish from wood, I use alcohol as a final rinse specifically because it does not raise the grain.

-- I support the 28th Amendment. http://www.wolf-pac.com/28th

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11639 posts in 2291 days


#25 posted 625 days ago

Ted , what kind of alcohol do you use ? This guy is referring to rubbing alcohol.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1732 posts in 791 days


#26 posted 624 days ago

Interesting, the guy definately said rubbing alcohol. By the same token, he led me wrong in a big way once before. I’m not holding it against the guy but I’m checking with you all before I take his advice again. He’s real nice and likes to chat. Anyhow, I learned some good stuff from this thread. Thank you much!

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

389 posts in 1607 days


#27 posted 624 days ago

I can find thousands of hits for “raising wood grain with alcohol”. In them, they talk about isopropyl (sp?), rubbing and denatured.

I just skimmed several of them and people are definitely claiming it works for them personally. It’s also in an article on Popular Woodworking.

I think it warrants experimenting if you want to find “your truth”. ;)

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2829 posts in 851 days


#28 posted 624 days ago

Weird. I’ve always heard and witnessed the opposite. As Ted stated, I use DNA when I DO NOT want to raise the grain but clean off sanding dust or anything else.

Jim, great tip on the figured wood! Does wetting heavily interlocked grain or woods that tear out no matter what you do (purpleheart, bloodwood) help with planing also?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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