24 replies so far
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#1 posted 595 days ago |
In the past I have only used Shellac when I was in a hurry, because it dries so fast. However, Tommy Mac (from Rough Cut) has me convinced that I should consider Shellac on some of my finer projects (jewelry boxes and things like that). I will soon be experimenting with Shellac from flakes. -- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it. |
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#2 posted 595 days ago |
I use shellac frequently…and would use it more if wasn’t so hard to apply. Right now I can pad it on (I can also do a French Polish) or I can spray it. But put a brush and a jar of shellac in my hand and I can ruin something much more quickly than I can with almost any other finish. With the padding technique, it’s very hard to apply finish into corners and nook/crannys on moldings and other details. Spraying solves that but I typically only spray larger projects. Besides, shellac isn’t durable enough for a lot of stuff; but it is a lot more durable than most folks think, and it’s so easy to repair. -- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard) |
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#3 posted 595 days ago |
yes, unless I need a hard protective finish for something that sees constant use shellac is great! and dries super fast that I can apply multiple coats in a matter of a day or 2. -- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route. |
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#4 posted 595 days ago |
I like shellac because it dries very fast and is easy to sand and get several coats on in a day and as you found out it gives a very smooth surface that has a good gloss but dosen’t look like plastic like moost of the poly does. I don’t think it would be as good as poly for a surface like a table or something that is going to get a lot heavy use, but for the jewerly boxes and other things like bookshelves and lamps Etc. it is very nice and also is cheaper that most of the poly finishes. I havent done a lot of finishing but I have not had the problems with useing a brush with shellac, but I mostly use the foam brushs if I need to get into a lot corners. |
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#5 posted 595 days ago |
I use it -- David in Damascus, MD |
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#6 posted 595 days ago |
Not that I have experience with any other finish, but I’ve been using it because the fumes aren’t bad at all. I’m using dewaxed shellac, so it should be compatible with many harder finishes on top (Specifically, I’m looking at a water-based urethane varnish and the shellac layer should fill the pores and help a bit with grain raising). I actually am using a brush with good results, but I hear the key is to use a good brush to get very thin coats and to not brush more than one pass until it dries. Mine’s a natural squirrel brush from an artist’s supply store, so I probably paid more for it way back when than I paid for some of my chisels. Cleans up with high-octane booze too. One other tip is I work from small jars so water and congealed bits don’t get in to the main batch, which would make it cloudy and require straining. Also stirring and anything that could cause bubbles is to be avoided. -- Tim -- Tools to make tools to make...it's tools all the way down. |
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#7 posted 595 days ago |
Scott Phillips—“American Woodworker.” His blood type is (spray) Shellac + -- -- Neil |
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#8 posted 594 days ago |
I think there is certainly a learning curve associated with using shellac successfully, just like everything else. The rapid drying time of shellac is a bit less forgiving, but it can be feathered out/removed afterward with denatured alcohol. It isn’t as durable as some of the more modern finishes, but it’s so easy to repair that for things not getting a lot of use, it can be a great finish. -- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker." |
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#9 posted 594 days ago |
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#10 posted 594 days ago |
I recently did my first shellac finish and fell in love with it. It’s not the only one I use, but I don’t shy away if I think it will work (pardon the photo size)
-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science |
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#11 posted 594 days ago |
I use shellac on all my arts and craft period projects. 2 quick coats within 15 minutes of each other…Let that dry over night…Lightly sand with double aut (0000) steelwool followed by one more coat of Shellac….lightly sand one more time…2 coats of wax and I am good to go -- Measure twice and cut once..... |
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#12 posted 594 days ago |
I use more shellac than any other finish. I love the stuff. |
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#13 posted 594 days ago |
I think shellac has it’s uses but it does not have very good protection against moisture so I don’t think it’s a good finish for large projects, even though it was used on many classic furniture pieces from days gone by, but there choices of finishes in the 19th centry and before was very limited. But Shellac does have it’s positive attributes that includes: it’s easy to use and apply plus it’s quick drying and the fact that almost any other finish will adhere to it makes it a great tool to use when you need to apply a different finish over an existing finish that other wise would not be compatible. I think Tommy Mc Donald uses shellac because he does not have a good working knowledge of finishing. At least that’s what he has stated in the past ,I’m guessing the same is true with Scott Philips. -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#14 posted 594 days ago |
You know what A1Jim, you just made me realize WHY I like shellac so much. You hit the nail on the head. |
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#15 posted 594 days ago |
Your not alone William. If shellac works for you great There are worse finishes out there. -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#16 posted 594 days ago |
I’ve done head to head comparisons of lacquer, shellac and poly to see which pops the wood the best. Shellac, IMO… hands down. I just finished a project that is several coats (3 – 4)of de-waxed shellac over stains (sanded between coats with 0000 synthetic steel wool, then lastly two coats of wipe urethane. I, too just got some brushing lacquer to try on the next project. We’ll see. Also, on the lathe, I have really liked using “Cap’n Eddie’s O.B. Shine Juice recipe on turned goods. Both raw wood and over stain. It’s 1/3 DNA, 1/3 shellac, and 1/3 BLO. Then I either wipe urethane over that or Dreft spray it. Shellac is good stuff. -- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia |
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#17 posted 594 days ago |
I have used shellac as a sealer for a lot of projects. It takes on a very nice warm tone, seals the grain well, and I can go over it with most finishes after a few minutes. -- David in Damascus, MD |
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#18 posted 594 days ago |
I use the Shellac all the time. More then any other finish. I use the Zinsser Bullseye clear and amber shellac. As others have said, the fumes are not that bad and it drys fast…. Its easy to work with and I like that you can darken wood if wanted with the Zinsser amber shellac…. I know I can make my own but I like just buying the finish ready to go… -- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes" |
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#19 posted 594 days ago |
Thanks for all and responses and suggestions. I usually finish my projects with a oil/varnish mix but I can only get one coat on a day and have to let it dry for 24 hours. I used the Zinseer sanding sealer shellac which I think is about a 2lb cut and I cut in in half with alcohol to get a 1lb cut. Made it very easy to apply but left very thin coats which didn’t bother me since I could put on 6 or more coats a day. Not the most “protective” finish I understand but it was easy to apply and looks great. I think I’m hooked when used on the right projects. |
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#20 posted 594 days ago |
It’s my favorite finish by far. Especially on the lathe, you can’t beat that dry time. -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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#21 posted 594 days ago |
I like Shellac for the fact that under Poly, it takes away the tendency for the piece to look like plastic. I made a small jewelry/trinket box for my Niece. I finished it with multiple coats of wipe on poly. While the finish came out smooth, it honestly made the walnut look like Walmart garbage. It looked fake. Maybe it was the Minwax product, but I hated it and tossed the box in the scrap pile. I made a second box and finished it with Shellac and topped it with one coat of the same Poly and the difference was quite noticeable. Yes, I suck at finishing. Guess it’s time for that Charles Neil book. |
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#22 posted 594 days ago |
Hey BossQ Charles Neil has some great videos on finishing” like Finishing beyond the books A-Z and I think he has a book in the works. -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#23 posted 594 days ago |
As Jim said, Charles Neil does have a 10-disc set of DVDs out on finishing. Although I have not made it through every DVD, I am through half of them and will vouch that there is a lot of good information on them, with tips, tricks, etc. as well as demonstrations. Here’s a link to the set of 10-DVDs, some of which can also be purchased separately. -- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker." |
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#24 posted 594 days ago |
Once I discovered shellac, a lot of my finishing probs went to the “cloud”. I use it a bunch both as a final finish and as a sealer. LAC BUGS RULE!!!!! -- bill@magraphics.us |

















French polishing is a wonderful finish but take a bit of practice but once you get it you’ll be hook…Blkcherry









