26 replies so far
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#1 posted 670 days ago |
You could chuck a router bit maybe. You could buy a cheap Forstner and grind the point off. -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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#2 posted 670 days ago |
i have to go with bertha -- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com |
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#3 posted 670 days ago |
What size hole? I was thinking plunge router as well. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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#4 posted 670 days ago |
I don’t think that I would want to use a Forsner bit (or spade bit, hole saw, etc) without a center spur. That’s what keeps the thing from trying to skate all over the place when it’s turning. Just for giggles, try using a hole saw without the drill bit. -- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it. |
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#5 posted 670 days ago |
I’m pretty sure there aren’t any forstners made without the center spur. Start the hole with the “normal” Forstner, then grind the point off to finish it. -- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia |
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#6 posted 670 days ago |
That is what I would do; get it started, then take the point off. -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0 |
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#7 posted 670 days ago |
Set up two bits? I guessing there is more than one hole to drill. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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#8 posted 670 days ago |
The spur has a function; there for a reason. |
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#9 posted 669 days ago |
Use two bits the same size, one WITH the spur, one WITHOUT. Start your hole with the spur-bit to get the outer portion of the bit below the surface and then switch to the de-spurred bit to finish. You did not say how deep your intended hole is so this may or may not work for you. -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#10 posted 669 days ago |
You’re looking for “rim-guided” forstner bits http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12353&familyName=Forstner+Bits -- The Wood Nerd -- http://www.workshopaholic.net |
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#11 posted 669 days ago |
Thanks Woodnerd, I’d never heard of those! -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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#12 posted 669 days ago |
The Nerd dun good! Cool! Bookmarking the link as I type… -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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#13 posted 669 days ago |
I’ve a small set of forstner bits that I simply grinded the bit off. You don’t have to pre-drill it—just use a drill press and make sure your work item is clamped or otherwise secured down and it’ll be fine. Go slow for the first couple of rotations to make a groove, then crank it up fast and hold on tight. those flat-on-purpose bits look really cool! -- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt |
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#14 posted 669 days ago |
That looks just like mine so I wondered what the big deal was?? Googling Forstner bits http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1T4ADRA_enUS423US423&q=Forstner+Bits&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1024&bih=515 -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0 |
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#15 posted 669 days ago |
I bet the rim-guided are not best sellers at $45 a pop. How about start ALL the holes, then grind the spur to finish (and still need only one) ? OP says “a… hole…” so maybe he only needs to do one, anyway. -- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia |
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#16 posted 669 days ago |
Historically, all Forstner Bits were “rim-guided.” They had several advantages including flat-bottom holes, VERY accurate hole diameters, and are capable of drilling “partial” diameter holes since they are guided by the edge of the bit. In the last 20 years or so, machine spur “forstner” bits and other variations of bits got confused with the more traditional design. Techichally, only rim-guided” Forstner bits are truly Forstner Bits. Thank you Woodnerd for including the link to Jamestown Distributors that shows true Forstners. -- Chesapeake Bob, Southern Maryland |
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#17 posted 669 days ago |
Thx bentlyj ;-) Good article, how does that feed point retract? -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0 |
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#18 posted 669 days ago |
What ever it is, it has to be strong!! Those feed screw pints take a lot of torque. years ago I need to drill a 2” hole through about 8” of framing for a conduit. The purchasing agent bought the cheapest forstner bit he could find without a feed screw. By the time I got that hole drilled, it was the most expensive 2” hole in the world!! Gotta love the stupid decisions people who have never done any real work do to save a buck ;-)) -- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence Wake Up America!! Please read; http://www.commondreams.org/view/2009/01/26-0 |
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#19 posted 669 days ago |
Topamax… your’s is good example of a good tool used for the wrong job. The correct bit would have been a bit such as is sold for plumbers or electricians, many times made by Milwaukee. The Forstner bit without the feed screw was not proper bit for this job,as you quickly discovered. -- Chesapeake Bob, Southern Maryland |
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#20 posted 669 days ago |
Thanks everyone for your input! @TheWoodNerd: that’s EXACTLY what I was picturing in my head. Though about $60 cheaper :) I guess I’m going to take an existing bit and grind off the pilot. I thought of that, but didn’t really want to go that route. -- Aaron |
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#21 posted 149 days ago |
Forstner bits without a center point are available from Carbide Processors Inc. at carbideprocessors.com The firm makes cutting diameters from 1/4’ to 3” |
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#22 posted 149 days ago |
@marvinlee: Thank you! This looks even better than other options I found because it’s carbide. Unfortunately they are out of stock on the 2.25” size I want…and sizes in that range. But I’ll keep checking. Thank you! -- Aaron |
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#23 posted 149 days ago |
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#24 posted 149 days ago |
I have a few sizes that I drilled through 3/4” oak that I keep on hand and use as templates. Then grind the pilots off and clamp the template onto your work piece and use as a guide. -- Jeff |
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#25 posted 148 days ago |
I went a different way when I needed big holes part way through the stock with no center mark. I cut the size hole I needed in a piece of scrap with a holesaw, taped it to my workpiece, and used a pattern bit in my router. Made a very clean job of it! -- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm |
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#26 posted 148 days ago |
Gadvm, that sound like a winner. -- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS |



























