Loren, we use to build 32mm cabinets for a good number of years and we had automatic and semiautomatic line drilling machines. However, one of my jobs was to make the samples for new cases. To a certain extent I could use the machines for fitting holes but sometimes I just used a drill press or hand drill. I always used hand drills to drill the shelf support holes unless a machine was already set up. My jig was just a simple aluminum drill guide that keyed off of the edge (I made it on a milling machine) and I used a drill stop on the drill for a depth gage. I could make a sample pretty fast with simple tools. It was always a pain in the ass to make samples because we were always needing them and I was always needed elsewhere so I was always rushed.
We would have been better off having a small sample dept with one or two small line drills dedicated to that department and not for production. However, Our business was always growing and it always seemed we had to throw the money at making the production more efficient.
-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau
Template: a block of wood with several carefully measured and drilled holes in a row at desired spacing. Usually offset from the edge the same distance as in the shelf for easier lineup. It’s slow, but I’m not doing it for living.
hardboard template with a 3/8” spaced holes, and a plunge router with 1/4” downward spiral bit and 3/8” guide bushing.
My last shelf pin jig I dadoed a 3/8” grove aligned on top of the holes just shallow enough to keep the guide busing in the track so all I need to do is slide the router an it will drop in the holes, then plunge with the 1/4” downward spiral bit and perfect 90degree holes that are exactly the same depth, and zero chip out even on Melamine.
I always just used 1/2” ply with an edge register and bit stop. As a hobbiest, I could never justify the commercial jigs. I imagined making one out of clear acrylic but it never materialized. Good luck!
-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog
I drill the holes in the sides before assembly of the case. First, I use a tape measure to mark the spacing 1” apart down the length of the side, then taking a combo square I mark the hole centers 2” in from front and rear.
Using the Shopsmith in drill press mode, I set the fence for the 2” spacing and “eyeball” each drilled hole, setting the stop so that I don’t drill all the way through. For long boards I use roller bearing stands to support the board on each end.
I find this method to be surprisingly accurate and quick.
There are a lot of commercial jigs available for people that do a lot of shelf units, but for the few times I have needed to do them a peice of pegboard nailed to a 1” x 3/4” scrap whatever length I need and use a hand drill with a depth stop on the bit seems to work.
I use a piece of peg board for a guide and a handheld power drill.
-- The more I work with wood the more I recognize only God can make something as beautiful as a tree. I hope my humble attempts at this craft do justice by His masterpiece. -- Tim
I stick with Norm’s simply plywood jig…plunge router with guide bushing. with time and usage the guide bushing holes loosen up a tad and a row of holes goes quickly
For anything with an open face, I figure where I want my shelves and cut dados for them. I do not like the pin holes nor do I like the metal bracket strip that one sets in vertical slots The latter are OK for shop or other entirely utilitarian shelves but for book shelves with open faces it’s permanent placement or nothing. Invariably the shelves will be positioned within some reasonable range. That is to say pretty much everybody only puts them so far apart and usually they have just a few shelves they use for tall things so instal the pin holes accordingly and you won’t have to drill so many of ‘em. I don’t think that there is any aesthetic appeal to having a row of holes going all the way up and down the inside of the cabinet. No one will use them all, that’s for sure.
Kitchen cabinets are a different animal.
Either that or just resign yourself to drilling ‘em one hole at a time. Any way to speed it up beyond a locator jig will have to be something that makes the drill move from hole to hole faster or moves the part under the drill faster. Both of which strike me as great ways to introduce accumulating error and still have a kluge of a project to build just to make the holes
-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.
I have used a shop made jig made of 1/8+” plastic laminate and 1/4” pin hole drill bit from Rockler. I have the templates (3) set up for spacing on 1”, 1 1/2” and 2”. Works great for any type of adjustable shelving. Just use spring clamps to hold it in place.
Here is one version from WolfCraft, what I’m try todo myself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PdlHl6kA8 I had similar like on teejk picture, but problem is that holes are going oval over some time. Solution is to put stronger pipe (aluminium) inside hole, but drilling holes to the edges is still too difficult.
-- from East Europe, where still exist four Season and Grandfather skills are valuable.
Home made plywood jig with half inch holes to accept the bushing of my router and a 1/4” bit. But I may try the 16 drummels ganged together trick I just need to get the financeing :)
-- If I cut it too short I can scab a piece on, but if it's too long what do I do?
Wish I still had the photos and plans for a jig I made. It employs a small plunge router mounted a wood base that has cogs on one edge. Resembling a jigsaw puzzle piece. Done with a bandsaw. Then make a mating guide rail of a scrap 1×2 with female cogs matching the cogs on the baseplate. The base plate is screwed into the bottom of the router plate so they become one unit. Use a straight bit (preferrably pointed) to match the size of pins.
With just a couple of rails having varied spacing, you can create an assortment of shelf pins. Clamp the guide rail on the bench to the side of the cabinet sides (laying flat) Start progressing with the router, engage a cog, plunge the pin hole, move to the next cog and so on. When i did my new house with tons of built-ins, I plunged shelf pin holes for half a day. You are only sliding a router along, and then plunging it.
No need to even watch what you’re doing closely. Good dust collection helps.
I have had a Blum drill press head in a dedicated DP(7 bits, amazingly accurate even for a FTOC cabinet), a humongo pneumatic Ritter single gang (BweeEE—kah—WHUMP—chhhhhhhhh), and now the manual Delta (a pretty nice solution for a small shop).
Occasional use: I’ve never understood how the plunge router could be efficient when a drill is made to be used one handed and a piece of tape can flag the depth. I have come to the conclusion that that is one of the things Norm’s producers chuckle about when they get together for martinis at a Boston bar.
I also have the Rockler jig which, wisely, stores the preset VixBit which does not oval-out the holes. I use it when Mr. Stupid built the cabinet and forgot to line bore.
Kindly,
Lee
-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"
@ Lee Barker – I guess “occasional” is subjective. I’m not sure I understand your reasoning that the drill is more efficient because it is designed to be used one-handed. What can you do with that other hand to increase efficiency? Me, I have both hands on the drill to try to keep it perpendicular to the material.
Here are the efficiencies I find using a plunge router: 1) All my drills are cordless, so they turn fairly slow. Even a corded drill is only turning about 4k rpm. That’s got nothing on the drilling ability of my router doing 22k rpm. The router is easily drilling each hole in half the time or less. 2) Even if you are really good with a drill, getting holes that are perfectly square to the face of the material is tough. Slight variations in the angle of the hole mean a shelf that is not steady. The base on the router takes care of that problem. 3) If you are drilling very many holes the one-shoulder-up posture of drilling becomes very uncomfortable. The plunge router is used with both hands, creating symetrical posture and motions … much more ergonomic. 4) The tape on the drill bit thing is hard to setup and adjust accurately. Drill a hair too deep and your tape gets pushed back and wadded up on the drill bit. The depth stop on the router is a breeze.
There’s more than one way to skin a cat. If the drill works for you, that’s great! For my purposes, the router is the ticket, and I wouldn’t go back to drilling.
Here’s a short video I put together showing how my setup works.
Shop fabricated story poles. Two inch wide rip by 3/4 with bore holes down the ctr. Use a bit stop on drill. Very fast and accurate. I have been doing this for thirty plus years. I have numerous lengths and can quickly whip out more when neccesary. I typically bore before assembly but after is no problem. Short of a cnc or line boring setup I have not seen anything faster (including a router) but as always it depends on the operator.
Peg board with drill depth stop. We highlight the target holes with a sharpie and use the same piece for all of the cabinets that get them (unless some are 36’s and some are 42’s, etc.
-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia
I use pegboard like most suggested but I glued two back to back giving me a deeper guide hole. If it is possible I use my drillpress and set the proper depth and it is worry free. If not I use a drill with tape as my guide.
Works okay just mark it well. Was in a rush one day and said hey that will work and used the board. Thus a new one was born and painted bright red with LARGE letters saying DO NOT USE EXCEPT TO MAKE HOLES FOR SHELVES. (Laughing)
Gunny
-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.
I had a machine shop make me a few out of alum. One for tall cabinets(6’ long) and one for cabinets(40” long). Then we use a router with guide collar and 5mm bit.
-- Owner of custom millwork shop
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