All Replies on Paint finish?

Paint?

-- 温故知新

What kind of paint did you use, Ike. I’ve used a gloss black heavy duty spray from HD, and it looks and feels like the original japanning.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Ike, it almost sounds like the paint isn’t fully cured or dried ?
That’s the only thing I can think of if you can finger skuff it.
As far as the feeling rough, perhaps there’s not enough paint there, and you’re realy feeling the roughness of the casting under the paint ?

-- Glen, Vernon B.C. Canada

Original Planes have japanning instead of paint. There are processes for doing this. I belive it involves baking the finish. I have seen recommendations for automotive paints for this purpose.

Personally, I leave my planes original and do not repaint. I use schellac on the body of the plane where the plane is japanned to protect it from rust.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I used some kind of paint I got from the hardware store it’s enamel paint for metal and plastic I for get the name and I threw out the can.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

I baked the paint on for about 20mins it has been curing for about three weeks now and it has 8 coats of paint.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

Maybe the baking process had a negative effect on the paint because it was not the heat-resistant type. I have read of guys using engine paint and then baking it on, but maybe that’s not a good idea for regular paint.

I’ve done 5 or 6 planes so far following the same procedure… applying several light coats about 30 minutes apart… and the paint was smooth and hard as a rock by the next day.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

The paint came out very hard it’s just like a scuff as if you had a piece of acrylic and rubed it with a hard papertowel, mabe I’m just being pickey about it I’ll try the rubbing compound and see what happens!

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

This question might be moot, but what did the paint’s instructions say about applying the product?

-- 温故知新

make shure thearea to be painted is clean and free of greese and dirt. Also that the temp is about 60 deg. same as any other spray paint.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

I doubt its the paint. Even a cheap can of spray paint should leave a decent enough surface after it drys.

I think the issue may be with the plane and or prep work. What kind of plane is it? I ask because I have had some planes that were not made by Stanley that had a really rough metal casting almost like it was bumpy.

Also did you strip all the old finish off? Was it sanded before you painted? Did you use any primer?

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

What did the instructions say about baking the finish?

-- 温故知新

Nothing about bakeing the finish but what I did was heat the oven and turn it off then put the plane in there after it had about 1 day to dry. As for the prep of the plane the only thing I didn’t do was use primer, I did take all the paint off and sanded as much as I can. They are record planes I don’t see what that would have to do with the paint though.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

Is this what you used?

-- shdesign3.com

This is the stuff I used,
http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/PDS30-AER-12-OZ-Royal-Blue-Enamel-Spray-Paint-p/792575.htm

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

I used engine paint (IIRC formulated for Ford truck engines) that I picked up at a local auto supply.

As Charlie suggested, I did 5 or 6 light coats.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

enamels can take a while to cure properly and the roughness sounds a bit like overspray….or some fine dust as settled on it while curing you could try wet and dry paper(1200)and repolish….but i doubt that it will come up with the glossy finish that the original spray would have left so you may want to respray as well….best paint finishes are always with the preperation

-- just get stuck in and have a go!!!

Eight coats? How much drying time between coats? I believe Cloakie is on the right path.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

I did eight light coats with a dry time of about 10-15 mins between, this is what I read on postes here and other sites to do but I don’t think any plane needs that many. I only did 2-3 coates on the frog and that came out great and that was cuz I was running out of paint so I did two planes with one can and if I sprayed only 2-3 coates it would have lasted a lot longer.

I’m gonna try the rubbing compound and see what happens, I’ll keep you guys posted.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

I never do more than about 3 light coats.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Yea I know this now, I still have a couple planes to do they are stanley planes so it will be easy for me to paint them black enamel paint is easy to find. The other planes I did are record planes so I had to try and match up the blue paint, the one I got was a very close match if not the same color.

The guy from “Handplanes 101 Rexmill” told me to paint the record planes black like the stanley planes, I knew they wouldn’t look good like that plus one came from UK and the guy painted it black over the blue and it was a very bad paint job the other one had rust and the japaning was about 70-80% after stripping them I did them the blue color they were as when they came from the Co.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

Japanning is done with lacquer, to give the look of enamel- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanning

I think what you are up against is the lack of curing of enamel paint by baking. BTDT. It may stay sticky for a long time.