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View lilredweldingrod's profile

Whacha think about this?

by lilredweldingrod
posted 06-18-2011 08:38 PM


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59 replies

59 replies so far

View Gary's profile

Gary

9333 posts in 3462 days


#1 posted 06-18-2011 08:46 PM

Man, I’ve never seen a guy get so much stuff given to him. You must live a special life. So, I’m gonna make you an offer too…. I’ll take that plexiglas off your hands so you won’t have such a problem. All you have to do is ship it to me…

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1490 posts in 3382 days


#2 posted 06-18-2011 09:05 PM

My initial thought was that it work good but that you’d have to route out (countersink) where the route mounts otherwise you’d lose too much depth of cut. But then I started thinking it might scratch easy.

If I had that I’d use it as the window in new outside doors I’ve been wanted to make. Gotta think it take a lot of force to break through that. Then again the scratching issue. So I’d look into laminating glass on either side to overcome that issue.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View Rob200's profile

Rob200

313 posts in 3198 days


#3 posted 06-18-2011 09:07 PM

it would make a good router table

-- Robert Laddusaw and no I am not smarter then a fifth grader ( and no I canot spell so if it is a problem don't read it ))

View Loren's profile

Loren

10476 posts in 3677 days


#4 posted 06-18-2011 09:08 PM

I wouldn’t mess with it. 1.25” plexi will be messy to counterbore for
your router base and while I do think the material will stay pretty
flat and support a lot of weight, it would also be useful for other
projects and I’d hold onto it for that if I were you.

You can also slice it up and sell it in smaller pieces on ebay.

View rsdowdy's profile

rsdowdy

105 posts in 3225 days


#5 posted 06-18-2011 09:09 PM

I think that would be way cool. Might have to support it with a few metal slats or something if you’re going to put in a 3+ HP router. Me..never tried it. It will scratch up over time, right?

Royal

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10125 posts in 4081 days


#6 posted 06-18-2011 09:13 PM

Rand,

I have never seen a piece of Plexiglass that thick! Must weigh a ton!

That was my first thought… a router table… Then…

That is so thick, you’d be waisting a lot of Router Bit space coming out the top… unless you would be able to Route-out a good amount to mount the Router directly to the PG… I think if you tried to cut-out a space for a Mounting Plate, it would end up weakening it… I really don’t know…

48×48 is really too big for a router table… sure you could make one but, most of it would be wasted space…
A more realistic size would be 24×24 or 24×36…

You could cut it up into smaller pieces… 4 pieces 24×24… or 2 pieces 24×36… and experiment…
I think I would be happy with a 24×24 size… would be easier to clamp stuff to it, etc.

I think you still want to conserve on space don’t you?

Now, for my friendly advice, I could use a piece 24×24… LOL (No, just kidding… I have a router table)

Just my thoughts…

Have fun playing with it!

Just be careful cutting that stuff… a little heat will mess you up FAST literally causing your cut to melt into it’self making it useless. If you could cut it FAST on a band saw… might be better… don’t know for sure.

Thanks for keeping us updated…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10880 posts in 3144 days


#7 posted 06-18-2011 09:21 PM

hold on to it for another project even though in this thickness its nearly bulletproof ….. LOL
it will be scratshed very easely

congrat´s with your new headdeac by the way …. :-)

take care
Dennis

View Greg In Maryland's profile

Greg In Maryland

553 posts in 3027 days


#8 posted 06-18-2011 09:38 PM

Just think you could trick it out with black lights, strobes and an awesome sound system and have a router table that just rocks! You would be the envy of your neighborhood.

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#9 posted 06-18-2011 09:43 PM

Gary, I have a better idea….You come for a visit and I’ll split it with you. lol Then we can have some of this llama. MmmmmGoood! See? If you were eating more llama than that nasty old artery plugging beef…..lol

BM, I’m sure it will scratch pretty easy, but what a show stopper! lol Maybe some acrylic floor wax might forestall the scratching. I don’t need bullet proof glass yet, I’m still out shooting all the Marines my son brings home. lol Even the instructors instructor. lol The old man still knows a thing or two more that them. lol No brag, just my pride. he he he
Bob, I think I’m going to try routing the edges first to see if my routers are slow enough to do this with out melting and ruining the bits. It would be kinda nice to have something no one else has. lol

rowdy, this stuff seems plenty rigid. It’s just that my pullout table is 1 1/2” thick now and I will have to shim everything to make this work. My current one does not even need the toggle clamps to be steady. The plexiglass might be lighter and need a little extra securements.

Joe I’m thinking 24×35 finished size with 20” or so under the bench to keep things rigid.

Dennis you are no help here. lol Come on, where is that fertile mind of yours? lol

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10880 posts in 3144 days


#10 posted 06-18-2011 09:55 PM

sendt it on vacation after the hangover last weekend

Dennis

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1615 posts in 3491 days


#11 posted 06-18-2011 09:55 PM

How about using to make table saw throat plates? Slicing it 1” thick the 4” width should be enough for an insert. 4×4 should make a ton of them…...lol

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10125 posts in 4081 days


#12 posted 06-18-2011 10:02 PM

Rand, you could give it a few coats of Clear Lacquer or Poly to protect it from so many scratches…
... after a quick Rub-Out and waxing, it would work like a charm!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 3774 days


#13 posted 06-18-2011 10:34 PM

This would be a hard choice to make. Having something that thick and much more stable than any wood product. There’s a lot of possibilities, router table being one. I think you could cut out a suitable opening, with routed edges, for one of the drop in router plates.

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

31432 posts in 2896 days


#14 posted 06-18-2011 10:35 PM

Well, it it were mine I wouldn’t have a use for it right now but I’d sure put it into the dungeon for a few years because it would probably be useful for something later on.

-- helluvawreck aka Charles, http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4179 posts in 3194 days


#15 posted 06-18-2011 10:35 PM

I have played with Plexiglas a bit, in fact I blogged about a electronic oven thermometer case with a Plexiglas cover.

Personally, I don’t don’t think I would try to machine this stuff. If you keep the piece, you could make a table top or some such out of it. There is a lot of reference material on the net telling you how to work with it, I would check it out first, before I tried.

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#16 posted 06-18-2011 11:15 PM

Tim, I plan on using my PC 7518 in the Woodpecker PRL V2. That is IF I do it.

Charles, I wish I had your dungeon, but I can only get so much in a 20’ ocean container. lol

Ken, My new Grizzly takes a 1/2 insert and I have 1/4” plexiglass, maybe I’ll practice with that first and see how it works as a ZCI first.

Jim, I’ve cut the stuff in my bandsaw and on the table saw. The worst part is the little chips hitting me in the face. lol (Yes, I was wearing safety glasses, Norm) lol

The more I think about this, the more plausible it becomes. Only one hitch….The wood fairy want’s one too.
Will this make the Wood Fairy a Plastic Fairy? lol

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4179 posts in 3194 days


#17 posted 06-18-2011 11:18 PM

......oh, but if you are feeling adventurous, my only suggestion is….......find a cuss word dictionary and practice up a bit, because I bet you will need them…..........(-:

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4179 posts in 3194 days


#18 posted 06-18-2011 11:19 PM

.......and I too have cut the stuff with my bandsaw, my RAS, drillpress….........and I cuss a lot…......(-:

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10125 posts in 4081 days


#19 posted 06-18-2011 11:33 PM

I think I would heed Jim’s advice… He KNOWS… we are guessing…

At this point, I would NOT try to machine it…

I would look at it as a very nice table top in the house, etc.
... maybe for a Light table, coffee table, etc.

A protective cover… Router table Fences, Dust control ports, etc.

I would not machine it… with real cutting…

If you still want to machine it, do what Jim says… get your Cuss Word Dictionary and study it first.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#20 posted 06-18-2011 11:49 PM

Jim, I have a cuss dictionary in 14 languages, and I still haven’t learned to pronounce the English ones properly yet. I know that the 1/4” stuff is sure a mess to clean up after.

Joe you are so encouraging. lol You come up over the hill and do the cussing for me while I try to machine it. lol That way we can double team it. lol

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10125 posts in 4081 days


#21 posted 06-18-2011 11:55 PM

ROFACMAO… note: New spelling… LOL

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View rsdowdy's profile

rsdowdy

105 posts in 3225 days


#22 posted 06-19-2011 12:06 AM

And I thought AC stood for alternating current…well…I guess it does in a way….

Royal

View ferstler's profile

ferstler

342 posts in 3549 days


#23 posted 06-19-2011 12:09 AM

I’d make a kitchen table out of it. You might have to coat the top with something harder, though, to prevent scratching..

Howard Ferstler

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#24 posted 06-19-2011 12:28 AM

Howard, I don’t have any room for a table.The dinning area is where we keep my invalid son, so he is in the middle of everything. All the room is taken by the hospital bed. We have a lot of TV tables though. lol

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2880 days


#25 posted 06-19-2011 01:40 AM

I’m way over on the far side of the room here. I don’t think it’s the right stuff for the job, at any thickness.

I have made new plastic baseplates for my 690 PC routers, and the stuff just doesn’t slide right on wood. Seems like it should, but it doesn’t. I went to 1/4” melamine—much better.

Sorry to rain on the parade.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#26 posted 06-19-2011 02:33 AM

Lee, You have not rained on my parade. This is just the kind of information I am looking for. If this stuff is not the right material, I prefer to know now before I do all the work and find out I made it out of the wrong stuff.
Thank you for your input. I was looking to find out others experience with this material.

I would hate to have the thing break off where the hole for the router lift is and have a raised panel bit in the router and all that wind up in my lap. lol Now that would rain on my parade. lol

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2880 days


#27 posted 06-19-2011 04:02 AM

Thanks for the acknowledgement.

The right stuff is plastic laminate; melamine in a pinch. I used to teach a class Building a Router Table and we used 3/4 MDF with laminate both sides. My prototype for the class is still working famously.

But the plastic is intriguing, isn’t it? Seemed to capture everyone’s imagination. I save the stuff, usually pieces I buy at thrift stores, sometimes flashy colors that were clipboards. You just never know when you’re going to need some of it, and 1 1/4 isn’t even in my imagination, but now I’ll think about that, too!

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2880 days


#28 posted 06-19-2011 04:03 AM

And I did. What about this hunk in a coffee table, with glass on top. I wonder what kind of visual impression one would get from that. In a different setting, where electricity were easily available, and you had hidden rope lights around the perimeter, I wonder how that could conduct through the plastic. Hmmm.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Pimzedd's profile

Pimzedd

606 posts in 4172 days


#29 posted 06-19-2011 04:33 AM

Will is work for a router table? Yes, I had two of them made from 1 in. plex.

I taught Plastics Manufacturing for 34 years. I built two in the late 1970’s. They were both still in use when I became an administrator in 2004. If they held up to high school students for 25 years, they should work for you.

Scratches? Don’t worry about them. Let them happen. I painted one of the tables white on the back to see if it made any difference. It didn’t. Left the other clear.

Make sure you use the right blades to cut and drill plex. Fine tooth blades. Triple chip teeth on table saw blades. As for drilling, look for information on the net on how to grind a 0 degree rake angle on drill bits, it’s easy to do. Most router bits work just fine.

Hope this helps.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#30 posted 06-19-2011 05:01 AM

Lee, the coffee table is a great idea, but with small grand kids….....

The space is taken for the next few years. lol Maybe I should be more concerned with a couple of toy boxes. lol

Bill, If I have only 6 inches on each side of the router plate, do you see a problem with breakage there?

This is what I was planning on replacing.

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

3165 posts in 3138 days


#31 posted 06-19-2011 05:16 AM

My only comment is about your grammar, dude. PLEASE, say:

“I’m out’-’shooting the Marines…”,

NOT, “I’m out shooting the Marines…”.

That hyphen means a lot to me. We need them boys to shoot the enemy!

-- Random Orbital Nailer

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#32 posted 06-19-2011 05:30 AM

Jack, oops, sorry ‘bout that. That’s what happens when you teach a hillbilly to read and wright. lol

I was worried about the competition until I saw them shoot. If these guys had to shoot a squirrel for dinner, they would go hungry. lol They seem to need a whole human sized torso to hit anything. My son is supposed to be going to Afghanistan this fall. I worry about him. With pistols they were even worse. Maybe I need to write the commandant a choice letter.

I guess it is a good thing squirrels don’t shoot back. lol

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10125 posts in 4081 days


#33 posted 06-19-2011 05:54 AM

We have a Grandson in Marine Basic Training right now in San Diego…
He says it’s HARD HARD and HARDER… but he’s sticking with it!
He’s 19… a boy… becoming a real Man!
He’s working his A$$ off… while some just “Pass out”...
I’m proud the way he’s sticking with it even when every bone & muscle in his body aches like something fierce while they keep pouring workout after workout into them…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View ptweedy's profile

ptweedy

75 posts in 3423 days


#34 posted 06-19-2011 06:01 AM

are you using your RT as a take off table? if so why not put interior door hinges at the right height to make it level with the saw top and support from below. I set my RT into loose pin hinges at the side of my table and support it with two pipes that rest in blocks attached to the front and back of the saw. This allows it to be removed quickly and easily. ptweedy@yahoo.com

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#35 posted 06-19-2011 06:05 AM

Joe, the training is what brings them home. Tell him that when the others knock off to go drinking and partying, for him to keep up the PT. He will never know if or when he will be called up for combat, so stay in top shape.

ptweedy, no I don’t use it as a take off. I just did not have the floor space for a table and I had this hole in the bench, so it went there and when not in use, it is slid back under the bench where it disappears.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10125 posts in 4081 days


#36 posted 06-19-2011 06:12 AM

Thanks Rand… will do…
PT = Physical Training? Personal Training?

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Pimzedd's profile

Pimzedd

606 posts in 4172 days


#37 posted 06-19-2011 06:20 AM

6 in. should be plenty in 1 1/4 in. plex. You should be able to cut a dado for a miter gauge slot like in your photo. No need for the aluminum inlay unless the inlay you have can be used for clamping accessories.

If you build legs of wood, don’t overtighten them. The plex may expand and contract at a different rate than the wood. Just snug should do.

In the tables I had, we mounted the router directly to the plex. We routed a recess in the plex in which to mount the router and get more of the bits to extend above the table top. We set the plex on top of 55 gal. drums with the tops cut out. Glued some plex blocks to the underside to keep them centered. Welded wheels used with auto service creepers to the bottom of the barrel. Worked great.

We were routing

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#38 posted 06-19-2011 06:41 AM

Joe, in the Marines it is the same thing.

Bill, The aluminum plate is part of the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift and is part of the package. And everything will slide in and out with no legs.

How will the plex handle a T-slot for the fences?

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10880 posts in 3144 days


#39 posted 06-19-2011 10:46 AM

make some safty screens out of the plexi Rand
then you still can see how you toture the wood andn don´t have to duck when it explode :-)

Dennis

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4168 posts in 2886 days


#40 posted 06-19-2011 04:35 PM

Use it,

Once machined it is going to be a vibration free table.

They use this stuff in car speakers. Honest

It cuts out all vibrations

ENJOY

Jamie

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#41 posted 06-19-2011 05:45 PM

Yeah!!! Dennis, good to see the hangover is finally subsiding. A week? Mercy, but you really got serious on this one. lol Just curious…..how did you know I am making a sign for the shop that says, “Poppa’s Wood Torture Chamber.”?
I know you have good eyes, but 9 time zones away? lol

Jamie, The general consensus is leaning toward the build. And here I thought I had came up with an original idea and pmzedd did it 30 years ago. lol That’s me… a day late and a dollar short…again. lol The more I think about this, the better I like it.

I have to finish Momma’s project first.It’s one of those that keeps taking me into unexplored area for me, so it is taking a lifetime it seems. lol The 32” x 25” end grain cutting board is the mental block at the moment. I’ve never even made a little one. lol Oh well; off into the wild blue yonder…..........................UH oooo I don’t have enough tight grain hardwood. Lots of red oak, but kinda scant on the right stuff. I gotta check with the boys at Answer Wood.
See you later…....

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10880 posts in 3144 days


#42 posted 06-19-2011 06:50 PM

my eye´s ain´t good at all :-(
but a little spy here and there with a phone help alot ….. LOL

Dennis

View Pimzedd's profile

Pimzedd

606 posts in 4172 days


#43 posted 06-19-2011 07:27 PM

The T-slot should work well. You can either saw or route the slot. I would not attempt to use a dado blade to cut the slot on a table saw. Multiple passes will work. I have never install one of the T-slots; Iassume the slot is held in place with screws. You can tap plex and use machine screws. Works well.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#44 posted 06-19-2011 07:59 PM

Dennis you are making me paranoid. Now I have to do a background check on everyone in the family. lol

Bill, What I have in mind on the T-slot is a router bit to make it. But I also have aluminum T- track I can use. I hope you don’t mind all the questions. I have always thought the questions were better than the mistakes. lol

Another thing I need to consider is this stuff may not be plexiglass. We have just assumed and you know what that can lead to. lol Before I get all carried away with this, I will cut a piece and try the router and saw to see how it cuts and machines. Is there any way to test this stuff to be sure what the material is?

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5849 posts in 3614 days


#45 posted 06-19-2011 08:08 PM

I both think it will machine ,and work, fine no reason whay not. It can be machined with sharp tools like any good hard wood. I do think maybe it’s too good for that purpose I would cut it in two and make two guitar bodies from it.I have seen many moons ago in the late sixties a company probably American who did just that they looked fabulous too just my 3 cents. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10880 posts in 3144 days


#46 posted 06-19-2011 08:14 PM

a little hint don´t make the background check on Mr.Lowery you wont be glad if you do …. LOL

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#47 posted 06-19-2011 08:47 PM

Alistar, I remember seeing those. Are we dating ourselves? lol

Dennis, the bad one was the one for Mr. Grosen. WOW! I see you have been around some. lol

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10880 posts in 3144 days


#48 posted 06-19-2011 09:00 PM

yah just blaime me for everything I´m used to it since year 1066
when I was one day late to the hastingbattle in UK … the only one my broadsword missed

View Pimzedd's profile

Pimzedd

606 posts in 4172 days


#49 posted 06-19-2011 09:13 PM

Cutting a T slot with a T-slot router bit may be a bit much for one pass. Cut a dado first and then use the bit. Set up a shop vac to suck up the shavings.

Want to know if it is plex/acrylic? Cut a small piece about the size of a small coin. Hold it with a pair of pliers and set it on fire. If the flame is light blue with a yellow top, the plastic develops a gazillion little bubbles, it smells sweet, and no smoke; then you have acrylic/plex.

About the only other clear plastic that thick would be Lexan/polycarbonate. Polycarbonate has a blue gray tint on a sawed edge. When burning polycarbonate, the plastic will put itself out (self extinguish). It may bubble up but large bubbles.; kinda foamy. The plastic will char. Yellow flame. There will be smoke, probably black. Can’t remember what the smell is similar to.

If it is polycarbonate, the fabrication methods I have described will work. HOWEVER, polycarbonate poses safety issues. Polycarbonate will grab. With a good fine tooth triple chip table saw blade, it will cut. Fine tooth bandsaw blades pose no problems. Routing can be a hazard. Saw a guy loose the end of two fingers while routing a 3 ft. circle. Plastic grabbed and his hand was wrapped around the edge of the circle. Jerked his hand into the bit. Not pretty.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2496 posts in 3136 days


#50 posted 06-19-2011 10:49 PM

Can I sue Dennis if I get hurt? Know a go lawyer in Denmark. I wonder is I can get around the jurisdictional thing? lol

Bill, Let me set this on fire and find out what I am dealing with. Probably best to just treat it like a piece of MDF and rout 3/4 slots and drill and tap for machine screws to secure the T-tracks.

We mentioned scratching up above. Will an acrylic wax be of any use?

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