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View yellowtruck75's profile

Wood strip canoe building

by yellowtruck75
posted 1199 days ago


14 replies so far

View rpalm's profile

rpalm

57 posts in 1976 days


#1 posted 1198 days ago

Take a look at Ted Moores’ Canoecraft.

http://www.amazon.com/Canoecraft-Illustrated-Guide-Woodstrip-Construction/dp/1552093425/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1302523217&sr=1-1

-- Robert, I don't understand everything I know about this.

View Harryn's profile

Harryn

18 posts in 1184 days


#2 posted 1184 days ago

The book “Building a Strip Canoe” by Gil Gilpatrick, 1985 is a very good source.

View twissty's profile

twissty

26 posts in 1448 days


#3 posted 1178 days ago

There’s two schools when it comes to cedar canoes. One is the “floating furniture” approach in Moore’s book. The other puts the emphasis on building a functional craft in Gilpatrick’s books. Get both and decide what direction you want to take.

View brianinpa's profile

brianinpa

1809 posts in 2319 days


#4 posted 1178 days ago

I like Ted Moores Canoecraft.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

View Rick's profile

Rick

6455 posts in 1628 days


#5 posted 1178 days ago

I have the book Harry mentioned. “Building a Strip Canoe” by Gil Gilpatrick. Mine was published in 1979. by “DeLorme Publishing Company”, Yarmouth, Maine,04096” ISBN 0-89933-000-2 in case you decide to go looking for it.

The last few Pages have 1/2 Size Form Templates for a number of canoes. And. Surprise! It also has Full Size Form Templates in a Pocket in the back of the book for a 14’ Puddle Duck, a 16’ Laker, a 16’ Whitewater, and a 19’ River Runner.

I’ve wanted to do one for a Long Time Now. I helped a friend in Ottawa build 2 of them from the same book. Very Easy to follow, Hundreds of Diagrams and Well Explained. They where Beautiful when they were done!! It’s not hard work by any means but it does take a lot of time.

It’s the “Strong Back” Method with Forms attached to it. Lay up the 1/4”x 3/4” Cedar or Pine Strips on the Forms and on and on. He prefers Cedar to Pine because of the Final Color and also the Weight is less.

The Strips are Natural Square Edge, butted together and glued. Fiberglass In & Out.

At one time I know that Lee Valley sold 2 Special Router Bits. One for cutting a Convex Edge on the Strips and one for cutting a Concave Edge on the Strips. Makes for a better and Tighter Fit, but not sure if it’s worth the effort.

Hope it’s of some help YT,

EDIT: I just checked Lee Valley. They are known as “Large Diameter Flute & Bead Bits” Item # 16J42.10 at $54.40 for the Pair and about $30.00 Each. Link is HERE if it works…LOL..

WOW! It Works!!

Rick

-- COMMON SENSE Is Like Deodorant. The People Who need It Most, Never Use It.

View joshtank's profile

joshtank

205 posts in 1569 days


#6 posted 1177 days ago

Remember to save some money and hit up your local library!

If they don’t have what you are looking for, they can request specific titles through the Inter-Library Loan system.

Saves you some money for buying the materials for your canoe! Best of luck!

-- Josh - Jacksonville, FL, http://jubinsky.wordpress.com

View twissty's profile

twissty

26 posts in 1448 days


#7 posted 1176 days ago

I bought a set of router bits on ebay. They were around $30 with shipping. Do a search for “canoe bits” or “flute and bead”. I’ve used them for two canoes so far and they should last for quite a few more.

Get the latest editions of both books listed here. THey each have multiple plans in them.

You can buy them both for less than you would pay for just one set of plans

View MrWoodworker's profile

MrWoodworker

65 posts in 1191 days


#8 posted 1176 days ago

Oh great. Another project that I’ll never have time for… sigh

-- http://nationalwoodworking.com

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5241 posts in 2181 days


#9 posted 1176 days ago

MY house overlooks the sea I was for many years involved in sailing had my own boat a little 28 footer I am a bit old now but would love to have made one of these,for fun on the water . Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Rick's profile

Rick

6455 posts in 1628 days


#10 posted 1172 days ago

YO!! YT5!! You watching YOUR OWN POSTS OR WHAT!! You posted this 27 Days ago and not a PEEP out of you since. You’re on here all the time!

Why do WE WASTE OUR Time Replying to “HELP” from other LJ’s???

Last one for me!!

-- COMMON SENSE Is Like Deodorant. The People Who need It Most, Never Use It.

View William's profile

William

8884 posts in 1438 days


#11 posted 1171 days ago

Rick, I came to this post, well, you know why I came to this post.
Anyway, I have a question.
You commented about the book that….. ”The last few Pages have 1/2 Size Form Templates for a number of canoes. And. Surprise! It also has Full Size Form Templates in a Pocket in the back of the book for a 14’ Puddle Duck, a 16’ Laker, a 16’ Whitewater, and a 19’ River Runner”
Now maybe I’m talking about different kinds of patterns.
Does this mean that in the pocket is full size patterns to build a 14 – 19’ (that’s feet) boats?
If I’m reading this right, then WOW!
I’m sorry. I’m not interested in building a boat, but when I read this, I couldn’t help but notice because I have paid upwards of thirty bucks for full size plans of simple furniture pieces. I don’t mind paying top dollar for good plans, especially when they include full size pattern, because full size makes things easier. It means I don’t have to resize stuff (something I’m not good at and hate doing).
So do you or anyone else know the price of this book?

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Rick's profile

Rick

6455 posts in 1628 days


#12 posted 1168 days ago

William:

Think I might have ben a little to Vague about “Full Size Plans”. They are Full Size “Profiles” of the “Form Pieces” (1/2” or 3/4” Plywood) that you attach Standing Vertically to a “Strongback” that is probably attached to “Saw Horses” or has Legs of it’s own.

The Canoe is basically Upside down at this Point. The “Forms” are spaced (18” to 22”apart) from one end of the Strongback/Canoe to the other. You “Lay Up” (Glue & Staple/Nail) the 1/4”x3/4’ Cedar or Pine Strips ONTO those “Forms” (Horizontally) running from one end of the Canoe to the other until you’ve completed the “Bottom or Hull” of the Canoe.

Once that is complete a LOT of Scrapping and Sanding to smooth it all down, then 2/3 Layers of Fiberglass Epoxied on.

The Book I speak of above is ONLY Canoes. I’ve had my copy for at least 12/15 Years. The Price Tag says $10.95.

BUT! There would be a HUGE Difference between this Book and one that had Full Size Furniture Plans.

Hope that explains it. I’ll keep this Post on MY “Watch List” if you need more Info., or you can PM me if you’d rather.

Regards:Rick

-- COMMON SENSE Is Like Deodorant. The People Who need It Most, Never Use It.

View William's profile

William

8884 posts in 1438 days


#13 posted 1168 days ago

I think you explained it well. I was confused I think because I didn’t really give much thought to how to build a canoe. After reading your response though, it makes sense that full size forms would have to be build to actuall form the shape of the canoe.
Now to explain to you how easily I get confused. I was trying to figure out how they made full size patterns for a nineteen foot piece. Yea, I think I had what I call a brain fart.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Rick's profile

Rick

6455 posts in 1628 days


#14 posted 1166 days ago

William:

Doesn’t really matter what kind of Fart it is. It removes the Pressure and the Pain! That’s a GOOD THING!!

So…POOF Away!!! ...LOL…

Rick

-- COMMON SENSE Is Like Deodorant. The People Who need It Most, Never Use It.

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