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View spamfilterman's profile

best finish for garage cabinets?

by spamfilterman
posted 04-05-2011 04:21 AM


21 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2138 days


#1 posted 04-05-2011 04:40 AM

I think the poly vs paint would be personal choice. I think if it were me I would use a few coats of semi-gloss poly with a light sanding between coats. If you paint them, I think an enamal paint would work best.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2551 days


#2 posted 04-05-2011 04:43 AM

ditto to snowyriver.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View gfadvm's profile (online now)

gfadvm

10899 posts in 1348 days


#3 posted 04-05-2011 05:10 AM

I have painted everything in my shop with gloss white from Home Depot.This seems to be quality paint.I like the gloss as dust doesnt stick to it at all.The gloss white also really helps with lighting the area.I think the brand name is Behr?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2199 days


#4 posted 04-05-2011 07:57 AM

Would you be open to using melamine? That is all I would ever use for garage cabinets.

-- Childress Woodworks

View bb71's profile

bb71

42 posts in 1704 days


#5 posted 04-05-2011 04:49 PM

I just recently finished a bank of wall cabinets for the garage. Made from paint grade maple 3/4” ply. I used a water base semi gloss clear on them – water base only because its quick. Seems to be working well. I think I may have preferred to do them in white for exactly the reason that gfadvm mentioned – it would make things brighter.

I should have thought of that. I paint all my work surfaces (workbench, etc.) with fluorescent yellow. Real bright and its very easy to find little bits on it. Then again, my old garage was creamsicle orange! My wife put a stop to that in the new garage.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3417 posts in 1852 days


#6 posted 04-05-2011 08:31 PM

If you are going to make the cabinets out of birch ply, I would not paint them. I’d build them, and use tung oil and mineral spirits. A 50/ 50 mix of both…..It will make the cabinets look good, and also put a good finish on them….Two coats will be fine… I use tung oil and spirits on all my cabinets, tables, workbenches, outfeed tables, and even jigs and fixtures…...take a look at my shop furniture and you’ll see why I like it…..Pine or poplar is good for paint….

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

View spamfilterman's profile

spamfilterman

147 posts in 1679 days


#7 posted 04-06-2011 01:04 AM

I have thought about melamine, but I’m not sure where to buy it.
I’ve also thought about lining the cabinet inside floors, shelves, and tops with laminate.

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1114 posts in 1718 days


#8 posted 04-06-2011 02:54 AM

No finish it dust free magnetic. :)
If you can find oil-based enamel paint, it would be great.
Higher the gloss, the most easier to clean.

View spamfilterman's profile

spamfilterman

147 posts in 1679 days


#9 posted 04-06-2011 04:22 AM

If you use an oil-based paint like you suggest, are you going to smell it forever while it off-gasses like oil-based poly’s?
Maybe I should add that I have a pregnant wife, so I’m not too keen on smelling fumes for very long. :-)

I’ve read about latex enamel, like this: http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/products/proclassic_interior_acrylic_latex/?referringCategory=interior_paint_coatings/paint/

Are these latex enamels decent?

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1114 posts in 1718 days


#10 posted 04-06-2011 04:40 AM

Actually any paint that has a sheen is enamel.
The higher the sheen, the more protection.

If that’s the case I would use water based.

SW Duration Home
Proclassic
Benjamin Moore Interior Semi-gloss Aura

They are all excellent products

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1114 posts in 1718 days


#11 posted 04-06-2011 04:54 AM

There’s more
i cant think off my head

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2072 posts in 1297 days


#12 posted 04-06-2011 08:17 AM

First, my whole-hearted recommendation: I would never have thought I would ever say this, but… Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula All Surface Paint. Spray paint ! In a can ! This is the easiest to spray, best atomizing, fastest drying, hardest stuff I have ever seen. I have sprayed all of my pegboard, hook backer boards, base cabinetry and shelving with this product. It is absolutely amazing and is far better than any paint I have ever run into in the past. It is a ground-breaking product. When they start selling it in quarts and gallons will be a great day. When they make the quarts and gallons tintable it will be a godsend.

My base cabinets are birch with a stain and lacquer original finish that were just cleaned with TSP substitute, then scuffed and shot. Most of the 3/4” birch wall mount backer boards and all of the shelves were not even primed and they are superior in looks and hard as hell.

This is nearly $7 a can at Lowe’s and Home Depot, so it’s not your cheap enamel. It kicks the crap out of epoxy spray paint. Be sure to spray outside on a calm day because it is highly aromatic. Tell your wife to stay inside for a bit. (Congratulations, by the way). It dries to handling in about 1-2 hours. I don’t mean tacky, I’m saying handle… as in install.

It comes in a small variety of colors ( I just use the white and black). It also comes in flat, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. I use gloss.

i’m not some kid that got a good can of paint. We build and install cabinetry, islands, entertainment centers, closets and built-ins, etc. We paint interior and exterior walls, trim, decks, fences, etc. We finish and re-finish floors. Name it. We use SW, Porter, and Behr, mostly. I believe I owe Sherwin Williams over $2000 right this minute. We use alkyd, latex enamels, acrylics, conventional and water-based urethanes, tung oil, varnishes, Rexthane, etc. The only ox-hair Purdy brushes in this town are the ones at our shop and the other ones I special ordered but haven’t picked up yet. We use brushes, rollers, Spraytech spray rigs, Earlex and Wagner HVLP, etc.

I am telling you all this so maybe you will realize that I am amazed that I am honestly advising you to rattle can your shop cabinets with a new product that blows everything away.

Try it and you will be a believer.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View wseand's profile

wseand

2274 posts in 1699 days


#13 posted 04-06-2011 09:17 AM

If you are worried about the fumes than I would go with a low VOC paint.

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2072 posts in 1297 days


#14 posted 04-06-2011 09:29 AM

Forgot to add: No fumes after quick drying time.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View MarcusM's profile

MarcusM

36 posts in 1638 days


#15 posted 04-06-2011 02:33 PM

So, David, it wasn’t quite clear to me; are you saying you like the Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula paint?

;)

Mark.

-- Tilbilly Mark

View ScottN's profile

ScottN

259 posts in 1337 days


#16 posted 04-06-2011 03:32 PM

A little off topic.

Maybe consider using base levelers for you base cabinets. Not only for the obvious…leveling, but to keep the base cabs from setting on the floor so they wont suck up any moisture.

-- New Auburn,WI

View C_PLUS_Woodworker's profile

C_PLUS_Woodworker

459 posts in 1565 days


#17 posted 04-06-2011 04:11 PM

ScottN just made a very wise suggestion on the base levelers.

I put mine up as high as the levelers would go. We have snow that comes into the garage with the cars and then melts, occasionally you will want to hose out your garage, etc.,, etc.

I choose to have the largest gap possible between the floor and the bases. Right decision, as now I can clean under the cabinets easily as opposed to if I had left a small gap. Usually just air hose out the entire garage.

-- We must all walk our own green mile

View spamfilterman's profile

spamfilterman

147 posts in 1679 days


#18 posted 04-08-2011 04:03 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions.

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2197 posts in 2204 days


#19 posted 04-08-2011 04:39 AM

For shop cabinets I think you would be settling for second best if you go with anything other then melamine.e. I would go with two sided melamine. Melamine is very common in commercial environments with good reason. Extremely durable, extremely easy to clean, very white and bright inside, and after you are done building your cabinets your done, yep no finishing steps. I use melamine for all my outfeed table and assembly tables. However, I will admiit I build my shop cabinets out of scraps or whatever is left over from kittchen jobs.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

View spamfilterman's profile

spamfilterman

147 posts in 1679 days


#20 posted 04-08-2011 04:44 AM

If you use melamine, what do you do about the exposed edges?
Any problems with the surfaces chipping when cutting them?
Can you still drill ok for pocket screws?

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2197 posts in 2204 days


#21 posted 04-08-2011 05:23 AM

I personally would edge band. But you could also attach a face frame from whatever wood you prefer. I have not actually used pocket hole screws with melamine but melamine will accept most any common wood screw with a self drilling point. I would just run my screws through the side panels and not use pocket holes. A finished slab panel can be used on visible ends so screw holes are not seen. A few draw backs with melamine are: accepts wood screw well first time but taking the screw back out, for whatever reason, weakens the joint if you replace the screw back in the same hole, also melamine can become weakened over time if the structure was moved regularly, thus melamine would not make for moveable furniture. Melamine is very popular inside cabinet shops for many reasons. For shop tables wood slides easily on the melamine.
A 60 tooth blade will do fine. I use Diablo 80 tooth myself but the less expensive avanti 60 tooth from HD does just fine.

Try building frameless cabinets, should be less expensive. Use slab melamine doors and get some edge banding experience. Simple yet nice cabinet for shop use. And this gives you some great Euro cabinet experience. If you were to go frameless I would definitely recommend still using face frame style hinge plates, which would be simpler. Probably too much information.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

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