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Lateral Adjusting Lever Question

by pete79
posted 03-30-2011 06:22 PM


18 replies so far

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13420 posts in 2505 days


#1 posted 03-30-2011 06:26 PM

Is the ring on the base of the lateral aduster (at the frog face) engaging into the slit in the new blade? I routinely use the lateral adjuster with the lever cap clamped. I haven’t ruined one yet. How much pressure are you applyng when you close the lever cap? thinking outloud now.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13420 posts in 2505 days


#2 posted 03-30-2011 06:27 PM

Oh, and I’ve got hocks in most my Stanleys, including my #5.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7625 posts in 2726 days


#3 posted 03-30-2011 06:39 PM

FWIW, my old Sargent 418 (#6) has a Hock in it and still engages.

My only suggestion might be to adjust the distance (probably increase) the chip breaker is from the end of the blade. What this does, is to allow the height adjusting “finger” to be adjusted to be more nearly vertical/perpendicular when the blade is at the preferred cutting depth. You may have to also adjust the frog fore OR aft in combination with the chip breaker distance until you find a sweet spot.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View pete79's profile

pete79

154 posts in 2953 days


#4 posted 03-30-2011 06:48 PM

Perhaps I used the incorrect terminology here – but the piece that I called the lateral adjuster is the long thin lever that has a small circle piece on the end of it. The lever extends out and over the top of the rear tote.

The small circle on the end of this lever fits between the slot in the blade, but does not engage the chipbreaker at all. I’m looking at it and it appears to have a bend in it, which may be the culprit? Should this lever be straight?

-- Life is a one lap race.

View pete79's profile

pete79

154 posts in 2953 days


#5 posted 03-30-2011 06:54 PM

Just straightened the lever out a bit and it worked….guess that was a dumb question. Thanks for the input though.

-- Life is a one lap race.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7625 posts in 2726 days


#6 posted 03-30-2011 06:55 PM

Geez, I guess I should pay attention here! In that case I would just carefully bend the disk end “up” slightly (like 1/16” or less) while holding firmly down on the pin aka pivot point of the lateral lever. Obviously do this at your own risk, but that is what I would do if it was called for. If you think about it, the difference in thickness of the Hock blade and the original is pretty small, so a SMALL adjustment should do it.

Just saw your FIX after posting this. COOL! Glad you figured it out. Have fun using it!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13420 posts in 2505 days


#7 posted 03-30-2011 07:01 PM

I’m not imagining how this round knob could engage the chipbreaker (?). Sounds like you fixed it anyway. Good job.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View pete79's profile

pete79

154 posts in 2953 days


#8 posted 03-30-2011 07:07 PM

It could be my own lack of understanding on how hand planes work, since this is my very first one. I assumed that the flat round disc engaged the chipbreaker and moved the breaker/blade assembly from that pressure. Or, does the adjusting lever adjust the breaker/lever assembly by pressing on the sides of the slot in the blade? Does that make sense? I’m probably talking out both ends now.

-- Life is a one lap race.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7625 posts in 2726 days


#9 posted 03-30-2011 07:15 PM

The small disk end of the lever engages the slot of the blade. May have been bent down from use, mishandling in the past, who knows but by bending it up slightly, you are back in business.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

14777 posts in 2431 days


#10 posted 03-30-2011 08:01 PM

Pete – One thing to repeat with care, each time you remove the lever cap and iron assy, is the re-seating of the iron against the frog. Many times it takes a couple of seconds of fettling to get the iron to properly engage the lateral adjustment’disk’ and create a nice, flat sandwich of metal. Do this check before engaging the lever cap or you’ll likely bend the disk out of place again. Good luck, and welcome to hand planing!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View swirt's profile

swirt

2419 posts in 2784 days


#11 posted 03-30-2011 08:21 PM

Right. The depth adjuster lug does engage the chipbreaker but the lateral adjuster (a wheel on some or a tab on others) only engages the blade, not the chipbreaker.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2810 days


#12 posted 03-30-2011 10:47 PM

Also remember that the replacement blade is thicker than the stock blade. The lever cap screw will need to be backed off.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

View JFobare's profile

JFobare

41 posts in 2884 days


#13 posted 04-27-2011 04:17 AM

Hey All, I’m hoping to jump in here with another question, if I may…..I just put a new Hock blade and breaker on my #4 Stanley and everything is contactinig the way it should, however, for the life of me I cannot get the blade to remain straight. I have adjusted the tension on the lever cap and messed with the lateral adjustment but its still producing a small gouge on my board on one side or the other. What am I missing?

View Dan's profile

Dan

3630 posts in 2693 days


#14 posted 04-27-2011 06:49 PM

JFobare- is your lateral adjustment moving as you are using it? It could be that its just really loose. I have a few planes that have rather loose adjustment levers and I have to check them rather often to make sure the blade is still straight with the mouth. I have no idea how to tighten a loose lever.

Also, have you put a camber or rounded off the corners on your blade at all? If you add a slight camber to the blade or even knock down the corners when honing it then that should help from getting gouges on the sides. That will prevent the corners from digging into the wood if the blade is not perfectly straight.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View JFobare's profile

JFobare

41 posts in 2884 days


#15 posted 04-27-2011 07:33 PM

Hey Dan…the lever is loose in the slot in the blade and I had to bend it up for it to properly engage (it was just sliding back and forth under the blade). Is there a rule of thumb to how tight the lever cap should be? Should I straighten the blade in the mouth and pinch it there with pressure?
No I haven’t rounded the corners, I had just gotten the blade in the mail and was anxious to put it on:-) But I will definitely give a shot…many thanks!

View Dan's profile

Dan

3630 posts in 2693 days


#16 posted 04-27-2011 09:10 PM

I don’t know that there is a rule of thumb for how tight the lever cap should be. I do know that if it is to tight there is a greater risk at damaging the the plane. I think the general idea is to have it just snug enough where it stays in place. If you are having to press really hard to clamp it then its probably to tight.

The Hock blade and breaker you got are a lot thicker then the original blade so that can effect the amount of space you have to play with when it comes to adjusting the blade. I have a Hock blade and breaker in one of my planes and I had to file the mouth of the plane open a little larger in order to have it set the way I wanted. If the frog on your plane is set for a fine shaving then its possible that you don’t have enough room for the adjustment and will need to either bring the frog back a little or file the mouth of the plane.

My advice would be to first hone a 2nd bevel on the blade and once thats done keep knock the corners of the blade down a little by honing the blade with pressure put down on each corner one at a time for 10/20 seconds. That should really help prevent getting gouges in the wood because the sharp corners of the blade wont dig in as much.

If you continue to have problems with the adjustment then I would check to see if the thickness of the blade is your problem. Its rather easy to file the mouth open but I wouldn’t do it unless you need to. I am sure you can find some information online as to how to do that.

Hope it works out for you

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View JFobare's profile

JFobare

41 posts in 2884 days


#17 posted 04-28-2011 02:24 AM

Thanks Dan I appreciate the feedback…I’ll keep playing with it and take those corners off.

View sksk's profile

sksk

7 posts in 1022 days


#18 posted 11-11-2016 09:19 PM

JFobare has probably long resolved this but I thought I’d chime in for anyone like me that discovers this old post and finds it useful.

The Hock blade and chip breaker are very, very slick/smooth. To keep them from slipping against each other (and out of adjustment) I had rough up the upper parts (away from the blade end) where they touch with sandpaper to allow friction to better keep them in place as it the case with the original blade/chipbreaker.

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