All Replies on Using Arm-A-Seal

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?26295-Poly-Urethane-Polyurethane

Plenty of info and opinions regarding Arm A Seal at this link : )

-- When did quiet and quite become the same word ? I'm guessing about the same time as your and you're did.

I’ve been using Arm-R-Seal for about 15 years and really like it. If you apply with a brush it leaves a nice durable finish. If you apply. a coat, let it sit for about 4 minutes then wipe off the excess then repeat about 10 times, you will have a beautiful, silky smooth hand rubbed oil finish with poly protection. Make sure you sand to at least 320 grit to get this feel.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - http://www.dlwoodworks.com - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

DLCW

You mention letting it sit for 4 minutes. Does the piece have to be horizontal? In other words, if I assemble the pieces the insides will be vertical. Regular poly has a tendacy to run when applied to vertical surfaces. Does this product? Do you sand with the 320 between coats or after the last one?

In other refinishing work I have done I have gone as far as sanding with automobile polishing compound and 1000 grit paper. This makes satin poly shine like gloss but without the glare. Would I not have to do this? Is the finish, when completed, more semi-gloss or satin.

I love the stuff! I first used it on my granddaughters 4 in 1 crib and dresser about 7 months ago. I have never used anything else since. What I like ths most about the product is NO RUNS! You do need to put an extra coat on but it is easier than trying to fix a run. Take a look at my last half dozen projects and you can see what a beautiful job it does.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

I love this stuff I know it’s better than poly my opinion though. Easy to apply same as poly but with less coats and a much better and clearer finish

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

I have to add in here that I too love this stuff. It’s a wiping varnish, in this case meaning part tung oil and a thinner. It does a beautiful job, brings out great color, provides a great and durable finish. I like to finish it with some rubbed in paste wax after the final coat dries, and I just love love love the finish that provides.

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - http://www.willmego.com/

Arm-A-Seal is just thinned polyurethane varnish thinned down with mineral spirits. Nothing special about. Sand between coats with 400.

-- shdesign3.com

Love the stuff also. I used it on many projects, and a pint goes a long way. I have used it on vertical faces without runs, but if I can, I turn it horizontal just in case. Recently, I even used it over General Finishes milk paint. If you look at the bench I made, three coats of it made some spilled water bead up beautifully. No water marks were left.

-- Jeff, CT - better late then never

I use it for all my products. I usually wipe it on instead of a using a brush and sand between coats with 400 paper. If you take your time and slowly build the coats by hand, you will be rewarded with a fabulous finish. I also use Minwax paste wax as the final step.

It’s SPECIAL stuff…....

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

Would be like to finish all sides of all pieces while they are horizontal. My concern is whether wood glue would do its job when gluing joints with this finish during the assembly stage. Using top level of titebond, yellow.

Also, in your experience what is the average dry time between coats? Do you have to wait as long as regular poly?

Any thoughts on this?

If you apply it with thin coats, you should not have any problems with sags.
It depends the temperature and humidity. but about

75 degree temperatures and a relative humidity of 50%. Anything under can cause problems.
You can apply subsequent coats as soon as the prior coat becomes tack free

-- shdesign3.com

My projects are completely assembled before I finish them. I usually wait a day between coats. Then sand with 500grit WD, tack cloth and go again. I also apply 2 coats paste wax using #0000 steel wool.

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

When you say your projects are completely assemblied before finishing does that include stain as well. I shudder at the thought of diving into a 48” by 25” by 25” box with a can of stain. Is there a partcular order or technique you use in a box/chest type of project?

You need to wait 24 hours between coats. If the temp is not above 70, you may have problems with runs if brushing on. Wiping on will result in thinner coats, but eliminate runs and ensure an even coat.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

I have gotten good results whilst not taking 24 hours, but at least several, 24 doesn’t hurt at all. I don’t think I’d apply a finish while wood glue was still wet no matter the finish. Despite the pain, I’d still probably finish the inside of the box post-assembly. I made a fairly nice huge box from yellow pine, hit it with cherry gel stain, 4 coats of arm-r-seal, and finished with paste wax, but I didn’t finish the inside.

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - http://www.willmego.com/

Using it right now. Need to apply another coat. I think this stuff is really good. Looks great and is very durable. I like the satin and semigloss finishes better than the high gloss finishes, but you can get great results with all of it.

I used it on a pair of night stands for the first time and I love it. 4 coats with a light 220 scuffing between coats and buffed it out with 0000 steel wool and bees wax and a cotton cloth after the wax set up…