All Replies on Wood kitchen sink- Can it be done?

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Wood kitchen sink- Can it be done?

by StumpyNubs
posted 12-04-2010 02:22 AM

20 replies so far

View Karson's profile


34994 posts in 3492 days

#1 posted 12-04-2010 02:57 AM

Jim Here is a web site on wooden Kitchen sinks.

And here is a post on woodweb.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View twissty's profile


26 posts in 1943 days

#2 posted 12-04-2010 05:40 AM

Maybe something like a marine epoxy to coat all sides of the wood.
You could even add a layer of fiberglass cloth and clearcoat it with epoxy. The final product would be as tough as an acrylic or fiberglass sink. and pretty much maintenance free

View WoodLe's profile


155 posts in 1888 days

#3 posted 12-04-2010 05:49 AM

2nd what twissty said. Fiberglass cloth and epoxy are wonderful products. It’s what I used on my wood strip canoe that I have listed in ‘my projects’. Totally waterproof.

-- Wooster, Ohio

View Dark_Lightning's profile


2343 posts in 2200 days

#4 posted 12-04-2010 05:54 AM

Solutions so far seem to rely on the wood for the structure only. Is that what you are after?

I’d personally rely on a ceramic finish, which, for me, means cast iron or fiberglass. But that’s up to you.

View grizzman's profile


7633 posts in 2395 days

#5 posted 12-04-2010 06:02 AM

well jack i think he wants to see the wood…wouldn’t your idea cover up the wood…i didnt know there were such things as wooden sinks…this will be interesting to see come about…good luck…grizzman

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View StumpyNubs's profile


6592 posts in 1892 days

#6 posted 12-04-2010 02:54 PM

I don’t want to cover the wood with anything, that would defeat the purpose. I suppose fiberglass could go on the underside, but I don’t think there would be any need for something to reinforce or strengthen it, wood should be quite strong.

The issue is a durable finish that will withstand a beating as well as cooking spills and stay looking good.

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' premiere online publications:

View Steven Davis's profile

Steven Davis

116 posts in 2006 days

#7 posted 12-04-2010 07:42 PM

You might want to look at woods used for boats – same problem, just keeping the water “in” instead of “out”.

-- Steven Davis - see me at

View Div's profile


1653 posts in 2032 days

#8 posted 12-04-2010 09:16 PM

Firstly you want a very stable wood which is why teak is a good choice. A penetrating epoxy like WEST will make for a dueable finish.

I couldn’t(wouldn’t?) afford teak and didn’t feel like the sticky stuff. My double sink is made from selected old growth tightly grained quartersawn PINE! I oiled the hell out of it with boiled linseed oil. It must be soaked right through! The whole thing is experimental but so far it is doing well. I used a waterproof polyurethane glue for the laminations, it was built in layers to get large rounded corners. Resorcinol glue would be excellent as well, didn’t have any at the time.

-- Div @ the bottom end of Africa. "A woodworker's sharpest tool should be his mind."

View a1Jim's profile


113836 posts in 2668 days

#9 posted 12-04-2010 09:26 PM

I would suggest Epi it will hold up to water with out a finish and is very hard it’s even fire rated.

-- Custom furniture

View JasonWagner's profile


523 posts in 2271 days

#10 posted 12-04-2010 09:44 PM

correction – Ipe

You can coat with fiberglass and still see through right?

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

View WoodLe's profile


155 posts in 1888 days

#11 posted 12-05-2010 12:36 AM

Jim, If you’re not familiar with fiberglass cloth and epoxy, look at how to make wood strip canoes. Looks just like varnish with beautiful wood showing through!

-- Wooster, Ohio

View StumpyNubs's profile


6592 posts in 1892 days

#12 posted 12-05-2010 02:20 AM

Div- you have actually made a sink from wood? Is it used in the kitchen?

I know teak will work, but price is always an issue. Plus, I really want something unique, perhaps an exotic like zebrawood. I wonder if you could build the sink out of a hardwood like maple, or even a softwood like pine and laminate 1/4” thick “veneer” over it with a much more expensive, more beautiful wood? If it’s all coated with a sealer, should’t it work?

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' premiere online publications:

View StumpyNubs's profile


6592 posts in 1892 days

#13 posted 12-05-2010 02:21 AM

WoodLE- I am not familliar with the fiberglass process for kayaks. Does it leave a smooth, clear surface like a glossy finish would or does it look like the wood is covered with fiberglass?

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' premiere online publications:

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4166 posts in 1948 days

#14 posted 12-05-2010 02:56 AM

Jim, there is another way using resins, thin like CA. Using a vacuum pump. If you get extremely dry wood Zebrano is good. The vacuum pulls out the air from the wood then the resin gets in. I think it is also called stabilised wood. What is nice about this method is that you can have a mat finish.

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View a1Jim's profile


113836 posts in 2668 days

#15 posted 12-05-2010 06:08 AM

Thanks Jason I guess my dyslexia kicked in. It is Ipe a common deck material .

-- Custom furniture

View sras's profile


4268 posts in 2220 days

#16 posted 12-05-2010 06:21 AM

Jim – to address your question about fiberglass covering wood, it can be absolutely transparent. A fiberglass covering can also be rock hard and very durable.

It does take some skill and practice to get a truly transparent covering. You also need the correct materials – the right fiberglass cloth and epoxy. You also would need to use a UV blocking varnish to prevent the epoxy form discoloring over time (if exposed to UV). Rob Macks at Laughing Loon has an excellent tutorial on transparent layups.

As to the best techniques for wood sinks, I would suggest you look into the links that Karson offered up in the first comment. I have not checked them out, but before I jumped to boatbuilding methods, I would see what sink builders do.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View terrilynne's profile


833 posts in 1985 days

#17 posted 12-06-2010 01:17 AM

CapitanAhab a fellow LJer has a cherry wood sink and counter top in his projects. You may be able to get some good advice from him.

-- Terri, Rocky Mountain High Colorado!

View shipwright's profile


6282 posts in 1889 days

#18 posted 12-06-2010 07:48 PM

I’ve done wooden water tanks, fuel tanks and even a wooden bathtub in boats I’ve built, and all of them were lined with 6 oz. ‘glass cloth and epoxy. I also use it on exterior bright finish hardwood plywood areas, like cabinsides (see “Friendship”, my projects). It comes up dead clear and hard as nails. the wood underneath is of no consequence as it never sees moisture. If you have rounded inside corners, however the cloth can be a challenge. If you don’t want to use cloth there is an epoxy sealer that is so thin it will go anywhere that diesel will go. It’s also foodsafe. It penetrates deeply and hardens well. It is an Industrial Formulators of Canada product called S1 Sealer. They were bought out by System Three several years ago and I’m pretty sure that System Three carries the product. I’m just not sure that they call it S1.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees.

View childress's profile


841 posts in 2633 days

#19 posted 12-06-2010 08:11 PM

The easiest way is to use Japanese Hinoki as seen in these bathtubs

You don’t have to put any finish on them and they will last a very long time. most likely longer than you!

The only problem is that you can’t get hinoki here, so…... you can use Port Orford Cedar instead. It’s almost identical to hinoki with the only exception is that it grows in NW US. Mainly Oregon and Washington.

Also, it is a little on the soft side and will most likely get beat up being used as a kitchen sink. Just thought I would give you one more thing to think about that wasn’t already posted.

Good Luck and keep us informed!

-- Childress Woodworks

View Holbs's profile


963 posts in 1121 days

#20 posted 12-24-2014 12:28 AM

Stumpy… did you ever go through with this? One of my ‘want to do’ remodels this coming year will be considering wooden kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower slats, and/or wooden bathtub.

-- --- If attacked by a mob of clowns, go for the Juggler

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