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Wood kitchen sink- Can it be done?

by StumpyNubs
posted 12-04-2010 02:22 AM


24 replies so far

View Karson's profile

Karson

35035 posts in 3868 days


#1 posted 12-04-2010 02:57 AM

Jim Here is a web site on wooden Kitchen sinks.

And here is a post on woodweb.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia karsonwm@gmail.com †

View twissty's profile

twissty

26 posts in 2320 days


#2 posted 12-04-2010 05:40 AM

Maybe something like a marine epoxy to coat all sides of the wood.
You could even add a layer of fiberglass cloth and clearcoat it with epoxy. The final product would be as tough as an acrylic or fiberglass sink. and pretty much maintenance free

View WoodLe's profile

WoodLe

155 posts in 2264 days


#3 posted 12-04-2010 05:49 AM

2nd what twissty said. Fiberglass cloth and epoxy are wonderful products. It’s what I used on my wood strip canoe that I have listed in ‘my projects’. Totally waterproof.

-- www.largewoodslabs.com Wooster, Ohio

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

2635 posts in 2577 days


#4 posted 12-04-2010 05:54 AM

Solutions so far seem to rely on the wood for the structure only. Is that what you are after?

I’d personally rely on a ceramic finish, which, for me, means cast iron or fiberglass. But that’s up to you.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7798 posts in 2771 days


#5 posted 12-04-2010 06:02 AM

well jack i think he wants to see the wood…wouldn’t your idea cover up the wood…i didnt know there were such things as wooden sinks…this will be interesting to see come about…good luck…grizzman

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6868 posts in 2268 days


#6 posted 12-04-2010 02:54 PM

I don’t want to cover the wood with anything, that would defeat the purpose. I suppose fiberglass could go on the underside, but I don’t think there would be any need for something to reinforce or strengthen it, wood should be quite strong.

The issue is a durable finish that will withstand a beating as well as cooking spills and stay looking good.

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

View Steven Davis's profile

Steven Davis

118 posts in 2382 days


#7 posted 12-04-2010 07:42 PM

You might want to look at woods used for boats – same problem, just keeping the water “in” instead of “out”.

-- Steven Davis - see me at http://www.free2secure.com/

View Div's profile

Div

1653 posts in 2408 days


#8 posted 12-04-2010 09:16 PM

Firstly you want a very stable wood which is why teak is a good choice. A penetrating epoxy like WEST will make for a dueable finish.

I couldn’t(wouldn’t?) afford teak and didn’t feel like the sticky stuff. My double sink is made from selected old growth tightly grained quartersawn PINE! I oiled the hell out of it with boiled linseed oil. It must be soaked right through! The whole thing is experimental but so far it is doing well. I used a waterproof polyurethane glue for the laminations, it was built in layers to get large rounded corners. Resorcinol glue would be excellent as well, didn’t have any at the time.

-- Div @ the bottom end of Africa. "A woodworker's sharpest tool should be his mind."

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115207 posts in 3045 days


#9 posted 12-04-2010 09:26 PM

I would suggest Epi it will hold up to water with out a finish and is very hard it’s even fire rated.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View JasonWagner's profile

JasonWagner

527 posts in 2648 days


#10 posted 12-04-2010 09:44 PM

correction – Ipe

You can coat with fiberglass and still see through right?

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

View WoodLe's profile

WoodLe

155 posts in 2264 days


#11 posted 12-05-2010 12:36 AM

Jim, If you’re not familiar with fiberglass cloth and epoxy, look at how to make wood strip canoes. Looks just like varnish with beautiful wood showing through!

-- www.largewoodslabs.com Wooster, Ohio

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6868 posts in 2268 days


#12 posted 12-05-2010 02:20 AM

Div- you have actually made a sink from wood? Is it used in the kitchen?

I know teak will work, but price is always an issue. Plus, I really want something unique, perhaps an exotic like zebrawood. I wonder if you could build the sink out of a hardwood like maple, or even a softwood like pine and laminate 1/4” thick “veneer” over it with a much more expensive, more beautiful wood? If it’s all coated with a sealer, should’t it work?

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6868 posts in 2268 days


#13 posted 12-05-2010 02:21 AM

WoodLE- I am not familliar with the fiberglass process for kayaks. Does it leave a smooth, clear surface like a glossy finish would or does it look like the wood is covered with fiberglass?

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4167 posts in 2324 days


#14 posted 12-05-2010 02:56 AM

Jim, there is another way using resins, thin like CA. Using a vacuum pump. If you get extremely dry wood Zebrano is good. The vacuum pulls out the air from the wood then the resin gets in. I think it is also called stabilised wood. What is nice about this method is that you can have a mat finish.
jamie

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115207 posts in 3045 days


#15 posted 12-05-2010 06:08 AM

Thanks Jason I guess my dyslexia kicked in. It is Ipe a common deck material .

http://www.woodsthebest.com/ipe_decking/ipe-wood.htm

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View sras's profile

sras

4392 posts in 2597 days


#16 posted 12-05-2010 06:21 AM

Jim – to address your question about fiberglass covering wood, it can be absolutely transparent. A fiberglass covering can also be rock hard and very durable.

It does take some skill and practice to get a truly transparent covering. You also need the correct materials – the right fiberglass cloth and epoxy. You also would need to use a UV blocking varnish to prevent the epoxy form discoloring over time (if exposed to UV). Rob Macks at Laughing Loon has an excellent tutorial on transparent layups.

As to the best techniques for wood sinks, I would suggest you look into the links that Karson offered up in the first comment. I have not checked them out, but before I jumped to boatbuilding methods, I would see what sink builders do.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View terrilynne's profile

terrilynne

834 posts in 2361 days


#17 posted 12-06-2010 01:17 AM

CapitanAhab a fellow LJer has a cherry wood sink and counter top in his projects. You may be able to get some good advice from him.

-- Terri, Rocky Mountain High Colorado!

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

7175 posts in 2266 days


#18 posted 12-06-2010 07:48 PM

I’ve done wooden water tanks, fuel tanks and even a wooden bathtub in boats I’ve built, and all of them were lined with 6 oz. ‘glass cloth and epoxy. I also use it on exterior bright finish hardwood plywood areas, like cabinsides (see “Friendship”, my projects). It comes up dead clear and hard as nails. the wood underneath is of no consequence as it never sees moisture. If you have rounded inside corners, however the cloth can be a challenge. If you don’t want to use cloth there is an epoxy sealer that is so thin it will go anywhere that diesel will go. It’s also foodsafe. It penetrates deeply and hardens well. It is an Industrial Formulators of Canada product called S1 Sealer. They were bought out by System Three several years ago and I’m pretty sure that System Three carries the product. I’m just not sure that they call it S1.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 3010 days


#19 posted 12-06-2010 08:11 PM

The easiest way is to use Japanese Hinoki as seen in these bathtubs

You don’t have to put any finish on them and they will last a very long time. most likely longer than you!

The only problem is that you can’t get hinoki here, so…... you can use Port Orford Cedar instead. It’s almost identical to hinoki with the only exception is that it grows in NW US. Mainly Oregon and Washington.

Also, it is a little on the soft side and will most likely get beat up being used as a kitchen sink. Just thought I would give you one more thing to think about that wasn’t already posted.

Good Luck and keep us informed!

-- Childress Woodworks

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1383 posts in 1497 days


#20 posted 12-24-2014 12:28 AM

Stumpy… did you ever go through with this? One of my ‘want to do’ remodels this coming year will be considering wooden kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower slats, and/or wooden bathtub.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View JPGeorge's profile

JPGeorge

1 post in 230 days


#21 posted 04-25-2016 12:42 PM

Hello, I know this topis was discussed six years ago, however I was wandering whether you pine kitchen sink is still OK. I’ve been getting ready for a similar job. Any feedback much appreciated.


Firstly you want a very stable wood which is why teak is a good choice. A penetrating epoxy like WEST will make for a dueable finish.

I couldn t(wouldn t?) afford teak and didn t feel like the sticky stuff. My double sink is made from selected old growth tightly grained quartersawn PINE! I oiled the hell out of it with boiled linseed oil. It must be soaked right through! The whole thing is experimental but so far it is doing well. I used a waterproof polyurethane glue for the laminations, it was built in layers to get large rounded corners. Resorcinol glue would be excellent as well, didn t have any at the time.

- Div


Firstly you want a very stable wood which is why teak is a good choice. A penetrating epoxy like WEST will make for a dueable finish.

I couldn t(wouldn t?) afford teak and didn t feel like the sticky stuff. My double sink is made from selected old growth tightly grained quartersawn PINE! I oiled the hell out of it with boiled linseed oil. It must be soaked right through! The whole thing is experimental but so far it is doing well. I used a waterproof polyurethane glue for the laminations, it was built in layers to get large rounded corners. Resorcinol glue would be excellent as well, didn t have any at the time.

- Div


View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2326 posts in 1764 days


#22 posted 04-25-2016 01:44 PM

I would investigate also having a one piece sheet copper or lead (terne?) pan made to go UNDER whatever you do in wood as a failsafe. Could even be just sheet pvc solvent welded together to form a leak free pan.

View dubois's profile

dubois

7 posts in 1299 days


#23 posted 04-25-2016 02:07 PM

I had a wooden sink carved from a single piece. It lasted about 5 years

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4459 posts in 3428 days


#24 posted 04-25-2016 02:23 PM

Vacuum! Get film finish on the inside of a sink an it is gonna get the snot beat out of it. Get the finish INSIDE THE WOOD.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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