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View airman's profile

Why can't I...

by airman
posted 1374 days ago


21 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#1 posted 1374 days ago

If your using a drill press your table might not be set to 90 degrees

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1718 days


#2 posted 1374 days ago

when you stand infront of your drillpress you maybee have set the table 90 degree left to right
but have you checked it in out that it is in level
just a thought

Dennis

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

2380 posts in 2130 days


#3 posted 1374 days ago

I do not know how you are supporting the piece on the drill press table. But, once you have the table set 90 degrees to the bit, you need to also be sure that that the piece is 90 degrees to the table both left-to-right and front-to-back – in other words, parallel to the bit.

Best wishes.

-- “That it will never come again / Is what makes life so sweet. ” ― Emily Dickinson

View interpim's profile

interpim

1123 posts in 2061 days


#4 posted 1374 days ago

why not get a jacob’s chuck for your lathe and use the tailstock to drill your hole. That way the piece stay’s in your chuck. I use a cheap Jacob’s chuck from HF and it works great.

-- San Diego, CA

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1526 days


#5 posted 1374 days ago

How long is the bit? Are you pressing too hard and causing it to flex? Just a thought.

-- Life is good.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4843 posts in 1401 days


#6 posted 1374 days ago

What kind of bit are you using? If this is a pepper mill, you are likely drilling down the grain. A forstner bit will be less likely to wander than a twist drill or spade bit.

Paul M

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

1672 posts in 1712 days


#7 posted 1374 days ago

Depends on the size of the bit. Skinny bits tend to wander, following the softer grain. It also possible that the end you marked (live center, probably) may not have been square to the centerline of the pepper mill. Did you hole the mill in a clamp or vise when drilling? This will also cause the problem.

View lew's profile

lew

9954 posts in 2358 days


#8 posted 1374 days ago

Interpim hit the perfect solution.

I had the same problems and tried everything to get a perfectly centered through hole. Finally, got the jacobs chuck for my lathe and haven’t had any trouble since. If you are using forstner bits, also get an extension for the bits. It really saves time because you don’t have the rotate the blanks half way thru.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4522 posts in 1678 days


#9 posted 1374 days ago

The right (perhaps only) way to make a pepper mill is to drill the hole before you turn it.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View hairy's profile

hairy

1988 posts in 2135 days


#10 posted 1374 days ago

If you have a live center, you could drill the hole in the blank before you turn it. You put a cone on the center, then put the cone into the drilled hole. I used that on a cane.

There are others, but I know this one.

-- the last of Barret's Privateers...

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4843 posts in 1401 days


#11 posted 1374 days ago

Of course you’re right Rich. You know they say common sense just isn’t common any more. Fortunately some (you) still have it. Good call.

Paul M

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View crank49's profile

crank49

3341 posts in 1574 days


#12 posted 1374 days ago

It’s always best to do as many operations as possible with a given setup.
While the part is chucked in the lathe is the best time to drill it, like “interprim” said, using a drill in a Jacobs chuck, mounted in the tailstock
Unless the part had to be supported by both the chuck and the live center in the tailstock at the same time.
In the later case, Rich hit it. Drill, then turn.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View TheGravedigger's profile

TheGravedigger

963 posts in 2627 days


#13 posted 1374 days ago

I’m with hairy. I make it a habit, whenever possible, drilling the hole on the lathe first, then turning around the hole.

-- Robert - Visit my woodworking blog: http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com

View sras's profile

sras

3782 posts in 1732 days


#14 posted 1374 days ago

If you do need to drill a deep hole and keep it straight, one thing that can help is to back the bit out and maek sure the chips are clear out of the bit. If the bit gets clogged it can make it easier to wander. This is especially true for smaller diameter bits.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile (online now)

TopamaxSurvivor

14613 posts in 2279 days


#15 posted 1374 days ago

What lind of bit? A self feeding auger will drill straighter than a twist drill. A shell auger is better yet. Check this out http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1694

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Stonekettle's profile

Stonekettle

116 posts in 1507 days


#16 posted 1366 days ago

deleted

-- Jim Wright, Stonekettle Station

View Stonekettle's profile

Stonekettle

116 posts in 1507 days


#17 posted 1366 days ago

There are three possible casues for the problem described:

1) your drillpress setup is not square and centered. Since you said you’d checked that, I’ll move on to the next possibility.

2) As mentioned above, the drill bit may be flexing, bending to follow the grain. The is common problem when boring into endgrain. Easiet way to find out if this is your problem is to make a number of test blanks. Bore them out, see if the amount and direction of drift is consistent i.e. the exit hole is always to the left or always to the front, etc. Since no two blocks of wood are identical, consisent error indicates that it is NOT bit flex, random results would indicate that it is. If it turns out to be bit flex, use a different bit – specifically one designed for end grain boring. Bore at high speed, using light pressure to pevent heating. Also, make sure your bits are sharp sharp sharp and note that end grain boring will dull a bit pretty quickly. Lift the bit out of the wood often and make sure the flutes clear.

3) Your drill press headstock and/or table may be flexing – something that happens with cheap, poorly made, or light duty presses, or a press that has loose or worn parts. Again, make a number of test borings. If the drift is consisent, which direction does it go? If the driff is towards the front (towards you) it’s likely the table is flexing downward under pressure (which indicates a cheap machine), or the headstock is lifting up (which would indicate loose mounting on the post or a really crappy post). Left or right could indicate that the table swivel is not tight or might by worn. If your press is equipped with a laser, point the laser at the edge of the table. Mark that spot on the table. Make the bore, as you press down see if the laser deflects from the indicated spot on the table. If it does, the press is flexing. You can buy and mount a cheap laser pointer to make this test if your press isn’t equipped with one.

You might also have worn bearings in the quill.

You might be pushing the press beyond its design limits – endgrain boring can put a lot of strain on a machine causing deflection. If you’ve checked everything else, try using very light pressure while boring and see if the problem goes away.

A number of folks above mentioned using a Jacob’s Chuck on your lath to bore out your blanks. This is, of course, the solution that will provide the best and most accurate results. HOWEVER, some lathes are simply not robust enough for end grain boring. As I said, end grain boring can put a hell of strain on a machine, doing it on a light duty lathe can overload the motor or damage the headstock bearings. Be careful and don’t exceed the designed load limits of your machine.

-- Jim Wright, Stonekettle Station

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1718 days


#18 posted 1366 days ago

thank´s for all the tips Jim :-)
always a thing or two that can be learned on L J
thanks for sharing

Dennis

View RayBowers's profile

RayBowers

11 posts in 2031 days


#19 posted 953 days ago

The best advice I got was to drill from both sides on the lathe before turning… Even if there is a little drift, you will know your holes are centered and who cares if they are slightly off in a little when they meet in the middle?

I had tried drilling clear through from one end but it would drift off center enough coming out the other end on long mills that it caused problems like grain matching for the top, etc. If when you strart, you cut the top from the body and drill the body only from the bottom and it drifts, then to align the top you’d have to compensate for the drift… But if you drilled the body from both ends, then it it stays on the axis you planned. So when it comes time to do the top, you can just drill center and it should line up beautifully.

Of course in the end, when jam chucking the whole mill, you have to retrue up regardless of what method you use, but at least with centers defined by drilling from each end of each piece, you minimize work.

-Ray

-- Ray Bowers

View RayBowers's profile

RayBowers

11 posts in 2031 days


#20 posted 953 days ago

I have the el cheapo forstner bits from Woodcraft to do the bulk of the boring and then a brad tip 9/32 for mills where the stem comes through the top.

I forgot to mention, the other advantage of boring from both sides is that for tall mills, you can use the SHORT extenders! I have the 4” and 10” extenders, but the 10” extenders wander more than the shorter ones… A 4” extender and bit can drilll out the body of even a pretty tall mill when drilled from both sides. A lot easier and less stress than worrying about a 10”er messing up on you.

-- Ray Bowers

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1763 days


#21 posted 953 days ago

richgreer said it right. It is all about references. Drill your hole first, and THAT becomes your reference.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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