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All Replies on how to cover up a small knot hole

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View Pabs's profile

how to cover up a small knot hole

by Pabs
posted 04-16-2018 01:14 PM


31 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4683 posts in 2317 days


#1 posted 04-16-2018 01:16 PM

You can’t hide it. Just fill it with epoxy.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View JayT's profile

JayT

5588 posts in 2177 days


#2 posted 04-16-2018 01:19 PM



You can t hide it. Just fill it with epoxy.

- bondogaposis

Yep, and don’t try to make the epoxy look like the cherry because it will never match. I like to tint the epoxy black on those occasions. Make it a feature instead of trying to hide it.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View bandit571's profile (online now)

bandit571

19729 posts in 2649 days


#3 posted 04-16-2018 01:24 PM

Drill it out enough to install a plug made from the same wood. Plug cutters can cut into the face grain of a piece of scrap that matches the wood. Align the grain as best as you can, and glue the plug in. Plane flush with the surface after the glue dries.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Pabs's profile

Pabs

236 posts in 3419 days


#4 posted 04-16-2018 02:13 PM



Drill it out enough to install a plug made from the same wood. Plug cutters can cut into the face grain of a piece of scrap that matches the wood. Align the grain as best as you can, and glue the plug in. Plane flush with the surface after the glue dries.

- bandit571


I had considered this but was wondering how that would look…would the perfect circle cutout really stand out? I’ve done it with end grain and they obviously really stand out (which is a desired effect in that case) . But if I were to make the plug from face grain then the only obvious thing would be the contour I guess.

-- Pabs

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

998 posts in 1918 days


#5 posted 04-16-2018 02:22 PM

Why not just get another board?

View Pabs's profile

Pabs

236 posts in 3419 days


#6 posted 04-16-2018 02:27 PM



Why not just get another board?

- Kazooman


ha….well, a few reasons. I had done some work to this board before noticing this knot and it’s gonna be something I give away to a friend so rather not waste a full board for something I’m not getting paid for :)

-- Pabs

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4045 posts in 2275 days


#7 posted 04-16-2018 03:10 PM

Trying to hide will most likely make it look worse. Of course it’s hard to tell when all we know its aboard. That’s not a lot of information to go on.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

1057 posts in 2815 days


#8 posted 04-16-2018 03:30 PM

Had the same problem with this entertainment center , I increased the depth forgetting that my original width was because of some defects and had to make three heart shaped patches (Dutchmen) to cover (see pics in project).
1) I drew some hearts in sketchup, printed them and used them as a pattern to make a template from 1/4” ply with the heart shapes.
2) Used an inlay kit with the templates to cut out the defect areas
3) removed the bushing spacer, and then cut the outlines in a piece of cherry from the same tree to make the patch.
4)Took the board to the bandsaw and then resawed the patches out

No they’re not perfect and indistinguishable, and I did purposely skew the grain alignments to try to feature the fix rather than hide it.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View mel52's profile

mel52

212 posts in 230 days


#9 posted 04-16-2018 03:33 PM

Let my wife talk to it. When she is done, the board will feel so bad it will fix itself. LOL.

-- MEL, Kansas

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

246 posts in 1460 days


#10 posted 04-16-2018 03:35 PM

+1 = new board. or

+1 = Either drill out the knot or if only one side is displayed: use a router with inlay template guide and circle template and cut 1/2 thickness deep around knot. Then find another board with same grain pattern, and cut out an inlay patch. With careful selection of plug/patch, knot repair can be invisible to everyone except another wood worker.


Drill it out enough to install a plug made from the same wood. Plug cutters can cut into the face grain of a piece of scrap that matches the wood. Align the grain as best as you can, and glue the plug in. Plane flush with the surface after the glue dries.

- bandit571


-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2638 posts in 555 days


#11 posted 04-16-2018 03:54 PM

I’d have laid the cuts out to avoid the knot, but if I found myself in a situation like that, I’d use epoxy putty. It comes in various colors that can be mixed, tinted with pigment or dye in order to achieve pretty much any color. I’d fill the knot with it (after testing recipes and allowing them to harden to match the base color of the wood), sand it smooth and then use Prismacolor pencils to match the surrounding wood.

I keep thirty or so pencils in my repair kit in various wood shades and warm greys, etc. They work beautifully on the epoxy and also on Timbermate. You really don’t have to be an artist, the idea is to obscure the edges and give some variation to the overall patch so it doesn’t attract the eye. I use Timbermate to patch worm holes in mesquite and I’ve gotten to where they blend so well, even I can’t find them when I go back and look.

Mohawk Blendal sticks are great too, but since you can go to any art supply store and get pencils for $1.50 apiece, it’s the easier way to go. Take a piece of the wood to the store and pick out three or four colors that will complement the board.

BTW, you don’t just color the patch, you want to go across the edges to obscure them. Use your finger to soften/blend the pencil lines.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2881 posts in 1446 days


#12 posted 04-16-2018 04:02 PM

Fill with epoxy but best to tint to match color.

I generally use artists acrylic paint.

You’ll probably be surprised ;-)

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

204 posts in 1886 days


#13 posted 04-16-2018 05:06 PM

Go buy a silver coin that fits over the hole, buy the year of birth for who you are making it for.

View bandit571's profile (online now)

bandit571

19729 posts in 2649 days


#14 posted 04-16-2018 05:45 PM


Just pine…...

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1531 posts in 3033 days


#15 posted 04-16-2018 06:24 PM

if you can’t hide it accentuate it! Make a butterfly inlay or bowtie. Me, I’d just shoot it up with cryocyclolate and make it solid and go on. But an inlay would be cool!

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

11478 posts in 2346 days


#16 posted 04-16-2018 06:47 PM

Epoxy and black dye, or anything dark like iron filings, walnut sanding dust. Alternately you can use super glue and some dark filler.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

915 posts in 569 days


#17 posted 04-16-2018 09:37 PM

Absolutely nothing wrong with an epoxy fill. It’s wood. Wood has knots. Kinda like the mole on Cindy Crawford. People have moles. She’s still gorgeous! :-)

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Rick's profile

Rick

9434 posts in 2998 days


#18 posted 04-17-2018 01:23 AM



Fill with epoxy but best to tint to match color.

I generally use artists acrylic paint.

You ll probably be surprised ;-)

- rwe2156

Good Idea! RWE! I’ll keep that in mind.

Although I generally Select The Wood that will be best suited for the Project I’m planning, BEFORE I start it.

Rick

-- LIFE is what happens when you're planning on doing Other Things!

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

998 posts in 1918 days


#19 posted 04-17-2018 02:25 AM

We are not talking about a huge live edge slab of some exotic species. It is well short of two board feet of cherry. Get another board and move along!

Personally, if it was something I was making for myself, I might just stabilize the knot and live with it. However, for any piece I was giving to a friend, I would do it the right way and select another board. I never sell anything I make, and have given many pieces as gifts. I always strive to make those to the best of my ability.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

4340 posts in 2375 days


#20 posted 04-17-2018 02:59 AM

I think it has a character to it to just use another species of wood and let it stand out.

Here ya go. Had two knots, drilled them out and turned new pieces to go in.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View bold1's profile

bold1

293 posts in 1813 days


#21 posted 04-17-2018 10:52 AM

Drill several holes in a pattern, and plug them. Everyone will assume you designed it that way. Or as was suggested install an inlay there.

View Pabs's profile

Pabs

236 posts in 3419 days


#22 posted 04-18-2018 12:13 PM

thanks guys for the many replies/advices. I’ll be working on this tonight and determine what solution I’ll go with.
actually playing with the idea of ripping the board in half and laminating a strip of darker colored wood. I could then remove that knot hole since it’s in the middle. The darker wood (rosewood) would be a nice accent to the cherry ( i think) and take care of my problem…kill two birds with one stone :)

-- Pabs

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

1871 posts in 1353 days


#23 posted 04-18-2018 12:32 PM

Instead of ripping you could just cut a groove (lengthwise) with dado blade or router and glue in a strip of contrasting wood or grain.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Pabs's profile

Pabs

236 posts in 3419 days


#24 posted 04-18-2018 12:47 PM



Instead of ripping you could just cut a groove (lengthwise) with dado blade or router and glue in a strip of contrasting wood or grain.

- Lazyman


yes that’s an option as well.. .but the only reason not to do that is that I’ll be finger jointing at the end of that board. figured It might look odd with one one the fingers being two tone.. .but maybe not?
or the other option is to make the inlay go only part ways , not all the way to the ends of the board, that way it would not interfere with the finger joint. it’s a 4 foot long board by 5 inches. I could simply stop 6 inches from either end, making the inlay 3 feet long by an inch or so.

-- Pabs

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

1871 posts in 1353 days


#25 posted 04-18-2018 01:07 PM

You could also size the inlay strip so that it lines up with one or more of the finger joints in which case it might look better if the strip was done on the adjoining sides as well.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2881 posts in 1446 days


#26 posted 04-18-2018 01:20 PM


thanks guys for the many replies/advices. I ll be working on this tonight and determine what solution I ll go with.
actually playing with the idea of ripping the board in half and laminating a strip of darker colored wood. I could then remove that knot hole since it s in the middle. The darker wood (rosewood) would be a nice accent to the cherry ( i think) and take care of my problem…kill two birds with one stone :)

- Pabs

You could also consider a simple inlay like a diamond or star.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Pabs's profile

Pabs

236 posts in 3419 days


#27 posted 04-18-2018 01:47 PM


- Pabs
You could also consider a simple inlay like a diamond or star.

- rwe2156

yes, that’s also an option.. but I also have the issue that the board might look naked if left on it’s own like that.

I was asked to make something like this but in wood.

and she wants it for large towels and she wants longer. asked for it to be 4 feet long (in order to put about 10 full size towels) and because full size towels are larger than hand towels the width of the piece need to be larger. I’m aiming for close to 5 inches wide and 4 feet high. I’m afraid it will look boring on its own, that’s why I’m thinking of the inlay in the middle .

-- Pabs

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

300 posts in 540 days


#28 posted 04-22-2018 07:27 AM

For my $$$$ it will depend on the meaning of the word “small” knot, or defect.I usually use Shellac sticks, which come from a variety of sources, but I like The Behlen brand sold here and use a “burn in knife” as shown in the picture. I would top out at somewhere near 1/2” width x about the same length, though it looks a lot less noticeable in smaller sizes. On large patches I often don’t try to “fix” but instead choose to accent instead, and sometimes draw attention to it as a focal point. My favorite color is usually black as wood often will have black defects anyhow.

For the burn in knife I would look at E-bay instead of here. Usually 20 bux will buy a brand new one, and most I have seen are all made at the same place. You can heat a more solid piece of metal, but I have found the cheap electric get hotter, and stay lit for long enough to do the work. Once paid in, leave the board for the night, and I’ve never had a repair come out. As stated in the ad they can be used on solid surface counter tops as well.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2638 posts in 555 days


#29 posted 04-22-2018 03:36 PM


For my $$$$ it will depend on the meaning of the word “small” knot, or defect.I usually use Shellac sticks…

- therealSteveN

Of all the ways to fill a 1/2” knot, burn-in isn’t one of them. I use Mohawk products, and whether it’s EZ Flow, Planestick, hard fill or any of the other burn-in products, they aren’t made to fill large voids. That’s what epoxy putty is for. You can pour a fill too, but the putty has the advantage that the surface isn’t glossy and it’s easy to do graining with pencils or markers. It sands beautifully too.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View mudflap4869's profile

mudflap4869

1666 posts in 1425 days


#30 posted 04-22-2018 07:35 PM

Make it look like a bird nest with its head sticking out. Areal conversation piece.

-- Still trying to master kindling making

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

2638 posts in 555 days


#31 posted 04-23-2018 04:28 AM

I’ve intended to do a blog post on using epoxy putty (which was what I recommended for this fix in an earlier post) combined with Prismacolor pencils and Blendal sticks for a while. This post inspired me to finally get off my butt and do it.

Check it out here: http://lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/121721

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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