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View Sgt_Lobo's profile

Good finish for padauk?

by Sgt_Lobo
posted 2442 days ago


22 replies so far

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3961 posts in 2669 days


#1 posted 2441 days ago

UV light causes the padauk to lose it’s bright color. Michael Dresdner has suggested that Armour-All (the car stuff) will help prolong the change in color and limiting exposure to sunlight will also help. Unfortunately Armour-All contains silicon which causes fisheye (craters) to form in film finishes, so an oil based finish like Danish oil or Boiled linseed oil (BLO) maybe the only choice if you pre-treat the wood with Armour-All. I have pretty much banned any silicon containing material from my shop, as I usually finish with lacquer or shellac. Just be careful with the stuff if you ever plan to get into film finishes. Another alternative is to finish with whatever you like and put Armour-All over the top when the finish cures. Paduak will darken over time, no matter what you use.

We like when the darkening occurs over time with Cherry. Paduak, Purpleheart just will darken over time eventually. it’s just an unfortunate fact of the wood.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Sgt_Lobo's profile

Sgt_Lobo

87 posts in 2464 days


#2 posted 2441 days ago

Thanks Douglas for the advice. I was actually thinking of maybe using Danish oil. I have never considered armour-all. I may have to research that some more. With oil based finishes like danish or teak oil, can you put paste wax over top after the oil has dried?

-- Sgt_Lobo -- Aurora, CO

View Karson's profile

Karson

34862 posts in 3006 days


#3 posted 2441 days ago

I don’t know if shellac will cover-up the armor-all treatment.

Penofin makes a 99% UV penetrating oil finish. It’s an outdoor marine finish, used for mahogany boats and log cabins. I’ve used it but have never tried to test it against another finish over time. They say it works.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2693 days


#4 posted 2441 days ago

Thanks for the clue, Doug. I’m abut to turn a few pens out of padauk.
As they are intended to be Christmas pens I want to keep them as red as possible.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3961 posts in 2669 days


#5 posted 2441 days ago

Danged if I can lay “hands” on the exact link I read when I posted yesterday. But this is to the site where Dresdner posts some real honeys on finishing.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Sgt_Lobo's profile

Sgt_Lobo

87 posts in 2464 days


#6 posted 2441 days ago

Great site Douglas, thanks for the link! He seems to recommend a UV inhibiting urethane. I will research more before making a decision, and I will hope that others continue to post recommendations in this thread…

-- Sgt_Lobo -- Aurora, CO

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3961 posts in 2669 days


#7 posted 2441 days ago

Somewhere in there was the original one about armour-all too. The only draw back about the UV inhibitors which would be in spar varnish and the urethane is that they will muddy up the grain, which the armour-all with a Danish oil follow up won’t do. My answer is to use Cardinal wood (aka Bloodwood) which doesn’t fade. Redheart, another highly colored wood does fade or mellow to more brownish tints. Bloodwood stays rich and red. I have a Padauk 1˝x12˝x48˝ up on the shelf that has been there since I found out about this.

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-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Dan'um Style's profile

Dan'um Style

12856 posts in 2589 days


#8 posted 2441 days ago

love the colors either way ! darkened or newly cut !

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

View Chris 's profile

Chris

1867 posts in 2597 days


#9 posted 2441 days ago

Sgt,

Thanks for the post. I have just acquired two pieces of Padauk that are 6/4 21”x 15’ (both from the same tree) for a steal and was planning on making a desk from it. I had heard that the wood goes through quite the color change as it ages. I think I be ordering some of that Penofin Oil finish for that project.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2693 days


#10 posted 2441 days ago

I, too, did a little research

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Characteristics_of_padauk.html

Robert Sorby’s web site says use Danish oil whist sanding. Keeps the dust down and fills the pores

Like cocobola it is a nasal irritant so make sure you wear a dust mask.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11639 posts in 2294 days


#11 posted 1901 days ago

Thanks for all of the information gentlemen : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112002 posts in 2183 days


#12 posted 1901 days ago

Armour all may save your color but contains silicone that will fish eye when in contact with clear coats. or many other finishes . if you use it don’t use it were you will finish other projects because it will contaminate
your other work.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11639 posts in 2294 days


#13 posted 1901 days ago

Thanks for the heads-up regarding the contamination , Jim : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View windsurf_mike's profile

windsurf_mike

1 post in 1116 days


#14 posted 1116 days ago

I’ve been using automotive clear top coat. As far as I know, it has the best UV blocker there is. So far nothing has changed color or tone.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15672 posts in 2824 days


#15 posted 1116 days ago

I’ve worked a fair bit with padauk. My experience is that an oil finish like Danish oil or BLO will darken it considerably. Poly by itself will keep the color bright. If you keep it away from sunlight, it will retain i’s color.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10606 posts in 1296 days


#16 posted 1116 days ago

Douglas – I use a lot of Spar because it seems to pop the grain like Blo, not “muddy” it as you said. This is just my experience with Min Wax Spar.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

917 posts in 1296 days


#17 posted 1115 days ago

Seal with clear/de-waxed shellac. Top coat with waterbased poly. Keep out of direct sunlight.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1764 days


#18 posted 1115 days ago

My experience with it is that padauk will run a bit. If you wipe-on a clear finish on a project made of padauk and something like maple, the color of the padauk will bleed onto the maple if you’re not careful.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View robertchella's profile

robertchella

3 posts in 1112 days


#19 posted 1112 days ago

I am planning on making a desk out of wood. I really need to know what type of wood and finish I should use. It will receive a lot of wear and tear and I have seen some desks that look great with wear on them. What should I use to achieve this effect?kenroy home

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3075 posts in 1540 days


#20 posted 1112 days ago

Although this topic was posted years ago, it has been revived…

I use danish oil, then seal with shelac and then wax.

It did darken the padauck a bit. I felt it was richer being darker.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View Frankenboom's profile

Frankenboom

6 posts in 616 days


#21 posted 616 days ago

Thanks for the information! I’m making a few boxes out of padauk, and while the wood is very beautiful, It’s hard to work with hand tools. I was worried about finishing, but this has helped a lot. thanks!

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

297 posts in 30 days


#22 posted 23 days ago

After trying many different combinations for dark woods, I find that spraying a lacquer is my first choice and brushing on a gloss poly as my second choice. I also try to finish as soon after final sanding as possible.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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