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View srfrancis's profile

Planer / Jointer Design

by srfrancis
posted 01-06-2018 04:30 AM


6 replies so far

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

1081 posts in 962 days


#1 posted 01-06-2018 03:26 PM

I am big and clumsy. I wouldn’t like to deal with the planer so close to the floor. You have to decide that for yourself. I agree that the best way to achieve the accuracy you need for a jointer is to fix the infeed table and make the outfeed table and planer head so they can be calibrated. The construction is going to be extremely challenging in terms of construction accuracy and rigidity. You probably already knew that.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2526 posts in 1533 days


#2 posted 01-06-2018 03:56 PM

Nice idea for saving space but it might be a bit of a pain having the shavings from the jointer falling all over the planer. It also seems rather inconvenient to feed either really long or really short boards. For long ones, you will have the have room at both ends to maneuver around the legs. Normally, you just have to slide the board over the top. Power switch is not exactly in a convenient location if you need to shut it off quickly. Did you consider designing 2 separate bases that you can simply nest together in a similar way when not in use?

Personally, I would want to have the ability to easily adjust the infeed table. For significant warp/twist, you might want to be able to take larger passes at first to speed things up and for highly figured wood, you might want to remove less per pass than usual. I guess it depends upon how often you need to do things out of the ordinary.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2526 posts in 1533 days


#3 posted 01-06-2018 04:01 PM

BTW, I’ve been thinking about making a jointer like this too but instead of buying and dismantling a perfectly good planer, my thought was to buy a Shelix replacement head for the Dewalt 735 planer and just finding a good motor for it.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3793 days


#4 posted 01-06-2018 05:30 PM

There’s a guy who posted here who made a
jointer and used 2 Sawstop extension tables
for it. Price of the iron wasn’t too extreme and
it came out looking really good.

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

1402 posts in 1370 days


#5 posted 01-06-2018 06:45 PM

I have done some refurbishing of vintage jointers and all of the cutterheads for jointers are much wider in diameter than the heads for planers.
Someone else might know the reason but even if you go to a shelix site, you will see the difference when looking at aftermarket heads for planers vs jointers.

Just something to keep in mind when using a planer head for a jointer.

As for the main question, there’s no way I would want to get down low to run boards through a planer like that. Large boards are heavy as it is and trying to move them around down low would be inconvenient and might be a recipe for throwing out your back.

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

1402 posts in 1370 days


#6 posted 01-06-2018 06:49 PM

Forgot to mention something regarding the fence.

Not sure I would go magnets. If something were to slip when putting pressure against the fence and your hand is over the blade, that could be bad.

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