LumberJocks

All Replies on Cabinet carcass - pocket holes vs reg screw and glue

  • Advertise with us
View Jaison's profile

Cabinet carcass - pocket holes vs reg screw and glue

by Jaison
posted 01-04-2018 12:45 AM


8 replies so far

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

9958 posts in 3554 days


#1 posted 01-04-2018 01:06 AM

It’s easier to screw flush corner carcase joints
by putting them through the face. I used
to use biscuits for alignment, clamp up for
assembly and complete the pilot holes for
the screws. Case corners came out very nicely
that way. Not super fast but nice. The clamps
just stay on long enough to get the screws in.
You can use air nails or crown staples too.

If you don’t have a biscuit joiner rabbets/dados
are another alignment option. Screws provide
strength and clamping but unless you have an
accurate way of pilot drilling all parts it can be
tricky to get the parts assembled.

View Be58pilot's profile

Be58pilot

1 post in 21 days


#2 posted 01-04-2018 01:17 AM

I will confess that I am no expert on the matter, but if it was me, I would probably consider cutting rabbets and/or dados and using a healthy amount of glue.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

3153 posts in 3137 days


#3 posted 01-04-2018 01:35 AM

Pocket screws driven into the side of the cabinet will hold the face frame securely until the glue dries. There have been times that I removed the screws after the glue had plenty of time to dry.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

4632 posts in 3149 days


#4 posted 01-04-2018 07:33 PM

In any cabinet construction, a good glue joint is all that is needed. The joint has to be clamped until the glue sets, but if clamps cannot be used, nails or screws serve as clamps. A good glue joint needs to be; clean, well fitting with no gaps. Glue has to be spread on both surfaces and there has to be squeeze out. That ensures there is adequate glue in the joint. Of course it needs a good glue. I would use Titebond II. Pocket screws into solid wood is OK, but I don’t like using pocket screws into plywood, especially if the plywood is of poor quality. Baltic Birch is fine.

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 497 days


#5 posted 01-04-2018 09:15 PM

If possible screw threads should only go into the stronger material and the weaker material should be held by the screw cap not the threads. In case of pocket holes you are screwing into hardwood ( good ) in case of through screws you are screwing into plywood ( weak ).

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

167 posts in 112 days


#6 posted 01-05-2018 08:32 PM

screwing into the edge of plywood will split it every time due to the nature of the lamination (sometimes even if you pre-drill the holes).

pocket holes from the side are a better bet.

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

View JackDuren's profile

JackDuren

388 posts in 865 days


#7 posted 01-06-2018 01:16 AM

But a waste if you have glue and clamps…

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3912 posts in 2215 days


#8 posted 01-06-2018 02:50 AM

I have used butt joints and screws for way over 20 years, plenty strong even for your heavy countertop. The 20 years or so before that I did the dado, glue and nail or screw thing. You most certainly can screw into the edge of plywood, MDF and other material without splitting. I know because I do it/ done it a lot. Never had a cabinet fall apart.

That being said, there about a million ways to build a cabinet box. Most any of them work fine. It’s more about how you like to do it than anything else.

I now build with butt joints and good quality screws. Good quality screws are not drywall screws. Depending on material I use confirmats screws or a good brand name assembly screw.

I tack my boxe together with a brad nailer, use a rubber mallet to fine tune anything that might be misaligned and the add the screws. When adding the screws use as counter sink setup that drill a pilot hole and dimples the surface at the same time and drive your screw in. If I have intermediate shelves or parts I’ll use a couple of spacers to position them in place and tack them there and add the screws. If I do have a very complicated peace and a set of cubbies then I’ll dado a 1/8 deep dado to help aling parts.
The KISS system works every time.

Edit to add. I use 3/4 backs

Plenty of screws going into the edge of the plywood and no splitting.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com