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View averagedadworkshop's profile

Wide Cabinet back material

by averagedadworkshop
posted 11-15-2017 06:52 PM


23 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3794 days


#1 posted 11-15-2017 07:10 PM

You can make a frame and panel back.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4508 posts in 2455 days


#2 posted 11-15-2017 07:20 PM

I have successfully edge glued 1/4 inch plywood to make backs wider the 4’. Reinforce the back with tape and leave it there.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View averagedadworkshop's profile

averagedadworkshop

29 posts in 1397 days


#3 posted 11-15-2017 07:32 PM

So, you are saying put a stile down the middle and two panels on either side?


You can make a frame and panel back.

- Loren


-- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." - Theodore Roosevelt

View jbay's profile

jbay

2677 posts in 1045 days


#4 posted 11-15-2017 07:33 PM

Can you order a 8×4 (grain runs 48” direction)
Otherwise I have done the same as AlaskaGuy

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3794 days


#5 posted 11-15-2017 07:37 PM


So, you are saying put a stile down the middle and two panels on either side?

- averagedadworkshop

Yeah. I would make the frame, like a face frame
using pocket screws in the back maybe, cut a
rabbet in the back of the frame and nail the panels in.

View averagedadworkshop's profile

averagedadworkshop

29 posts in 1397 days


#6 posted 11-15-2017 07:44 PM

Taping just the back?


I have successfully edge glued 1/4 inch plywood to make backs wider the 4 . Reinforce the back with tape and leave it there.

- AlaskaGuy


-- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." - Theodore Roosevelt

View jbay's profile

jbay

2677 posts in 1045 days


#7 posted 11-15-2017 07:54 PM

What I do, is, make sure the 2 halves fit good making a tight seam.
I butt them together, run a couple of pieces of tape down the seam to hold them tight.
Then I fold the panels open and apply glue to the seam, then close them back flat and tape the back side.
At this point if you want to put some clamps on them, gently, you can but I never have felt the need.

After the glue has dried remove the tape from the face, leave the tape on the back.
If you taped the front good you shouldn’t get any glue squeeze out on the front, just out the back.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4508 posts in 2455 days


#8 posted 11-15-2017 09:59 PM



Taping just the back?

I have successfully edge glued 1/4 inch plywood to make backs wider the 4 . Reinforce the back with tape and leave it there.

- AlaskaGuy
What Jbay says work well.

- averagedadworkshop


-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View DS's profile

DS

3001 posts in 2566 days


#9 posted 11-15-2017 10:44 PM


Can you order a 8×4 (grain runs 48” direction)
Otherwise I have done the same as AlaskaGuy

- jbay

This is usually a custom layup. Some distributors stock them, but, it is usually at the request of some large operation that is buying units and units of them. (Red Oak and Maple in my market)
If no one like that is buying tons of them where you live, good luck finding 8×4’s of any species.

If you can press your own veneers, it is relatively easy to seam your veneer flitches and laminate 8X4 yourself.
(GLVeneer.com also stocks a pretty good variety of 8×4 veneers ready for your press – 30 species/cuts. Just don’t forget a balancing backer sheet)

I suppose it all depends on how desperately you want no seams as to how much effort you put into this endeavor.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4508 posts in 2455 days


#10 posted 11-15-2017 11:15 PM

Can you order a 8×4 (grain runs 48” direction)
Otherwise I have done the same as AlaskaGuy

- jbay

This is usually a custom layup. Some distributors stock them, but, it is usually at the request of some large operation that is buying units and units of them. (Red Oak and Maple in my market)
If no one like that is buying tons of them where you live, good luck finding 8×4 s of any species.

If you can press your own veneers, it is relatively easy to seam your veneer flitches and laminate 8X4 yourself.
(GLVeneer.com also stocks a pretty good variety of 8×4 veneers ready for your press – 30 species/cuts. Just don t forget a balancing backer sheet)

I suppose it all depends on how desperately you want no seams as to how much effort you put into this endeavor.

- DS


Sounds like a whole lot of work and expense for a book case. Edge gluing is a practical solution.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

21303 posts in 3252 days


#11 posted 11-16-2017 12:01 AM

I would either butt the two piece together with a real tight seam and a thin board glued on the back for insurance or put a nice figured board down the seam on the inside- maybe scalloped on both sides or something like that and it will look like you planned it that way.

Cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View jbay's profile

jbay

2677 posts in 1045 days


#12 posted 11-16-2017 12:47 AM


Can you order a 8×4 (grain runs 48” direction)
Otherwise I have done the same as AlaskaGuy

- jbay

This is usually a custom layup. Some distributors stock them, but, it is usually at the request of some large operation that is buying units and units of them. (Red Oak and Maple in my market)
If no one like that is buying tons of them where you live, good luck finding 8×4 s of any species.

- DS

I’ve bought 8×4’s many times without having a custom layup.
I guess I have just been lucky that larger operations were using the same species that I needed at the time. ;)

View DS's profile

DS

3001 posts in 2566 days


#13 posted 11-16-2017 02:42 PM


Sounds like a whole lot of work and expense for a book case. Edge gluing is a practical solution.

- AlaskaGuy

AlaskaGuy, I don’t disagree necesssarily.
If I already had inventory, I might do as you suggest. It is not too difficult to join two panels as you suggest.

Mostly, the decision for me would be based on what I am set up to do best and what level of project I am working on. At the super-high end, it would be and is unacceptable to have a detectable seam in a back like that. Not everyone can pull it off, either (seaming 1/4” plywood).

If this is an exotic veneer panel, I am picking my flitches anyways, so it becomes no big hairy deal to lay it up.
If it is a more common furniture item, I might not be so picky.
As I said before, it all depends on how desperately you want no seams as to how much effort you put into this endeavor.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View pontic's profile

pontic

634 posts in 755 days


#14 posted 11-16-2017 02:54 PM

If you don’t mind a seam then you could make it show by making a double 1/4” rabbit on a 3/8×1,1/2” piece of contrasting wood and glue the two pieces to it and use it as a decorative seam.
otherwise glue do what Alaskaguy recommends. Or, just get some 3/8 stock and shiplap the back.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5095 posts in 2639 days


#15 posted 11-16-2017 02:59 PM

What Alaska guy said….just glue the 1/4” ply edge to edge.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View DS's profile

DS

3001 posts in 2566 days


#16 posted 11-16-2017 03:22 PM

I’ve made $350 bookcases and I’ve made $16,000 bookcases.
All bookcases are NOT create equally.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4508 posts in 2455 days


#17 posted 11-16-2017 05:37 PM


I ve made $350 bookcases and I ve made $16,000 bookcases.
All bookcases are NOT create equally.

- DS

I don’t know this for sure but I’d bet the OP isn’t making a 16,000 bookcase. I’m guessing he is not a professional like you.

Done with straight edges and picking the right grained plywood you’ll never see a seem.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View DS's profile

DS

3001 posts in 2566 days


#18 posted 11-16-2017 05:41 PM

Done with straight edges and picking the right grained plywood you ll never see a seem.

- AlaskaGuy

You are correct, sir!

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View averagedadworkshop's profile

averagedadworkshop

29 posts in 1397 days


#19 posted 11-16-2017 06:56 PM

yeah this definitely is not a $16,000 bookcase! haha thank you for all your input! I think I am going to try and edge glue the sheets. This is going to be my biggest project so far, and will end up being a focal point in our living room, so I really hope this works!

-- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." - Theodore Roosevelt

View jbay's profile

jbay

2677 posts in 1045 days


#20 posted 11-16-2017 07:02 PM


yeah this definitely is not a $16,000 bookcase! haha thank you for all your input! I think I am going to try and edge glue the sheets. This is going to be my biggest project so far, and will end up being a focal point in our living room, so I really hope this works!

- averagedadworkshop


Do a test run with your scrap, if you have any.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4508 posts in 2455 days


#21 posted 11-16-2017 07:06 PM


yeah this definitely is not a $16,000 bookcase! haha thank you for all your input! I think I am going to try and edge glue the sheets. This is going to be my biggest project so far, and will end up being a focal point in our living room, so I really hope this works!

- averagedadworkshop

Do a test run with your scrap, if you have any.

- jbay


+1

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2810 posts in 3584 days


#22 posted 11-16-2017 08:18 PM

Scarf the edge in your table saw (45’s) and glue them. If you line them up correctly the edges won’t show much. Just the grain will indicate a joint.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4508 posts in 2455 days


#23 posted 11-16-2017 11:29 PM


Scarf the edge in your table saw (45 s) and glue them. If you line them up correctly the edges won t show much. Just the grain will indicate a joint.

- Craftsman on the lake

In my my opinion that’s going to make something easy, hard. 2 45’s are going to want to lip and slide past each other and be a bitch to line up perfectly. Like I said I’ve done this before and you can’t tell where the seam is. Then somebody comes along a covers up your nice work with books and you can’t ever see it. When you but two square edges together you can’t see the edge.

Have you done it with 45’ before ?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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